^> 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


■  50     '"^~ 
116 


1^ 

1^ 


Hi  u4 


2.5 
2.2 

118 


U    IIIIII.6 


6" 


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^^ 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

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C/j 


i 


U-t 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute 


for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historlques 


*»^_ 


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10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


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16X 


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m 

24X 


28X 


32X 


lire 

details 
jes  du 
modifier 
]er  une 
filmage 


t 


$ 


6es 


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d'impression  ou  d'illustratlon  et  en  terminant  par 
la  derniAre  page  qui  comporte  une  teile 
empreinte. 

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dernlftre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ►  signlfie  "A  SUIVRE  ",  le 
symbols  y  signifie  "FIN". 

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filmAs  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  II  est  film6  A  partir 
de  I'angle  supirieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'Images  n6cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m6thode. 


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comm( 
thing. 


NOTES  OF    A  TRAVELLER. 


CHAPTER  I. 

Washington — Mount  Vernon. 

Whoever  visits  Washington  for  the  first  time  during  th« 
session  of  Congress  has  much  to  observe.  It  is  his  own 
fault  if  he  does  not  find  some  one  who  will  give  him  inform- 
ation, or  help  him  to  amusement  among  the  variety  of 
objects  and  characters  around  him.  There  are  always 
idlers  hanging  on  some  petition,  who  have  news  to'  tell. 
The  representatives  and  senators  from  his  state  will  be 
glad  to  see  him  as  their  countryman,  and  feel  an  obliga- 
tion to  render  him  some  of  those  attentions  which  he  might 
expect  from  the  consul  of  his  nation  in  a  foreign  port.  Let 
him  be  careful,  however,  not  to  look  for  more  than  is  rea- 
sonable, for  business  is  very  pressing  upon  a  large  part  of 
the  members,  and  calls  of  this  kind  are  frequent.  Members 
have  their  trials  like  other  men ;  and  if  they  grow  inatten- 
tive, or  even  show  a  disposition  to  get  rid  of  you,  forgive 
them.  Many  a  speech  is  made  in  th>  House  and  Senate  to 
thin,  restless,  coughing,  and  whispering  audiences;  and 
talents  which  have  transported  their  possessor  five  hundred 
or  a  thousand  miles  to  a  seat  in  the  government,  now,  by  a 
strange  reaction,  will  sometimes  send  fifty  or  a  hundred  peo- 
ple out  of  the  House.  Events  multiply  daily  in  a  country 
like  this ;  and  time  goes  on  in  spite  of  every  thing,  though 
it  please  only  a  very  small  minority  at  b'^st ;  and  although 
commonly  nobody  can  be  found  who  is  satisfied  in  every 
thing.     In  the  main,  the  members  are  about  as  civil  to  pe»- 

2 


10 


CITY  or  WASHINGTON. 


sons  indifferent  to  them,  as  other  people  are  whose  interest 
it  is  on  the  whole  rather  to  please  than  to  displease  ;  and 
will  meet  you  in  the  rotunda  of  the  capitol  by  appointment ; 
introduce  you  into  the  library  of  Congress  ;  tell  what  senator 
is  looking  out  of  the  middle  window,  or  what  distinguished 
representative  is  turning  over  Audubon's  Ornithology  ;  point 
lo  the  President's  house,  llie  departments,  the  patent-office, 
and  the  top  of  the  dome,  as  objects  worthy  of  a  visit ;  and 
then  entering  their  chamber,  introduce  you  to  a  few  loungers 
near  their  own  seals,  yawning  at  the  thoughts  of  another 
btupid  day,  or  nervous  and  feverish  with  anxiety  about  the 
country  or  tliemselves.     If  it  be  gloomy  weather,  late  in 
the  session,  you  feel  as  if  you  were  in  a  prison,  for  the 
people  seem  as  dissatisfied  as  convicts.     One  is  lost  in 
tliought  about  something  invisible,  another  blushes  over  some 
newspaper  which  has  attacked  him,  a  third  hurries  to  hear 
whether  you  have  brouglit  any  news,  and  all  are  either 
hoping  or  despairing  about  soon  obtaining  their  release. 

The  broad  staircase  on  the  east  side  of  the  capitol,  by 
which  you  wearily  mount  from  the  level  of  the  yard  to  the 
floor  of  llie  houses,  the  rotunda,  &c.,  is  n  deformity,  inter- 
fering exceedingly  with  the  architectural  beauty  of  the 
front.  It  is  unprecedented  in  Europe,  so  far  as  I  have  seen, 
unless  the  capitol  of  Rome  should  be  claimed  as  an  ex- 
ample, which  cannot  with  propriety  be  done.  The  "  stairs 
which  lead  to  the  capitol"  of  that  metropolis  are  made  merely 
to  mount  the  hill,  and  do  not  cover  a  large  part  of  the 
edifice. 

I  was  much  pleased  with  the  morning  scene  from  the 
terrace,  and  still  more  with  that  from  the  top  of  the  capitol. 
The  view  would  be  splendid  indeed  if  the  city  were  of  the 
size  originally  expected,  or  even  if  the  surrounding  country 
were  well  cultivated.  I  could  not,  however,  spend  much 
lime  in  the  city,  without  first  visiting  Mount  Vernon.  The 
very  name  of  that  place  had  long  been  dear  to  me.  The 
sound  always  seemed  sweet  and  solemn  to  my  ears.  I 
have  had  a  peculiar  feeling  for  it  ever  since  the  day  when 
!ny  father  came  home  with  a  badge  of  mourning  upon 
h  8  arm,  and  said,  with  a  tear  in  his  eye,  that  General 


N'OTON. 


MOUNT  VERNON. 


M 


people  are  whose  interest 
ic  than  to  displease  ;  and 
le  capitol  by  appointment ; 
ongress  ;  tell  what  senator 
low,  or  what  distinguished 
luboii's  Ornithology ;  point 
artinents,  ihe  patent-office, 
;cts  worthy  of  a  visit ;  and 
duce  you  to  a  few  loungers 
it  the  tiioughts  of  another 
rish  with  anxiety  about  the 
!  gloomy  weather,  late  in 

were  in  a  prison,  for  the 
convicts.  One  is  lost  in 
,  another  blushes  over  some 
lim,  a  third  hurries  to  hear 

news,  and  all  are  either 
obtaining  their  release, 
asl  side  of  the  capitol,  by 
he  level  of  the  yard  to  the 
,  &;c.,  is  a  deformity,  inter- 
rchitectural  beauty  of  the 
urope,  so  far  as  I  have  seen, 
ould  be  claimed  as  an  ex- 
iety  be  done.  The  "  stairs 
metropolis  are  made  merely 
cover  a  large  part  of  the 

E  morning  scene  from  the 
,  from  the  top  of  the  capitol. 
ileed  if  the  city  were  of  the 
1  if  the  surrounding  country 
not,  however,  spend  much 
isiling  Mount  Vernon.  The 
ng  been  dear  to  me.  The 
md  solemn  to  my  ears.  I 
it  ever  since  the  day  when 
a  badge  of  mourning  upon 
ir  in  his  eye,  that  General 


Washington  was  dead.  In  the  sadness  of  our  house  that 
day  I  participated  as  a  child,  with  but  few  ideas  beyond 
these,  that  a  man,  loved  and  venerated  by  my  father  above 
all  others,  had  left  the  world,  and  that  such  excellence  as  I 
could  never  hope  to  see  was  gone  for  ever.  And  where 
did  he  die  ?  At  Mount  Vernon.  So  sweet  a  name,  asso- 
ciated  with  such  feelings  in  the  mind  of  a  stripling,  I  bad 
always  heard  with  emotion;  and  it  was  with  a  degree 
of  solemnity  that  it  occurred  to  me  at  Washington,  that  I 
was  now  in  the  vicinity  of  the  place. 

Not  falling  in  company  with  any  persons  of  congenial 
feelings  who  wished  to  visit  the  spot,  I  determined  to  pro- 
ceed thither  alone  ;  and  mounting  a  horse,  set  off  one  fine 
morning  on  that  most  interesting  pilgrimage.  A  great  part 
of  the  low  level  land  which  extends  south  from  Capitol 
Hill  to  Greenleaf's  Point,  where  the  East  Branch  joins  the 
Potomac,  is  entirely  unenclosed  and  uncultivated,  with  the 
exception  of  a  field  here  and  there.  I  passed  a  spot,  how- 
ever, which  makes  the  strongest  contrast  with  the  general 
waste  appearance  of  this  extensive  tract,  and  indeed  with 
most  of  the  soil  in  the  vicinity  of  Washington.  There  foui 
acres  have  been  enclosed,  manured,  and  cultivated  with 
care ;  and  now  supply  the  market  of  the  metropolis  with  a 
large  share  of  its  vegetables,  yielding  to  the  proprietor  a 
valuable  income.  What  a  lamentable  picture  is  pre- 
sented by  a  country  like  this,  worn  out  by  exhausting  crops* 
and  abandoned  years  ago  to  sterility  and  solitude !  The 
road  to  Baltimore  lies  through  a  similar  region ;  and  my 
whole  ride  to  Mount  Vernon  ofiered  only  the  sad  variety  of 
a  few  plantations,  where  the  same  debiUtating  process  ap- 
peared to  have  been  not  quite  completed.  The  few  crops  I 
saw  seemed  to  say  that  they  were  destined  to  be  the  last 
on  those  extensive  fields ;  and  the  scattered  habitations  of 
planters  and  slaves  looked  as  if  ready  to  be  deserted,  and 
soon  to  resemble  the  ruins  seen  on  former  sites,  long  since 
abandoned.  The  people  are  the  first  I  ever  saw  who  have 
not  energy  enough  to  pull  down  their  old  houses. 

Shrub  oaks  and  other  stunted  trees  have  sprung  up  oa 
$he  deserted  fields,  and  show  how  slow  is  nature  to  recover 


12 


MOUNT  VBRNON. 


the  springs  of  vegetable  life  when  they  have  once  been  cut 
off.  Among  these  I  often  paused  to  contemplate  the  grand 
aspect  of  vhe  capitol  from  a  distance,  which  is  visible  from 
a  thousand  points  around.  The  enormous  tolls  paid  on  the 
road  to  Alexandria  show  the  inconveniences  arising  to 
travellers  out  of  a  thin  population.  Roads  and  bridges  are 
erected  at  greater  expense,  and  contributions  for  their  sup- 
port are  divided  among  a  few  instead  of  multitudes.  The 
reconstruction  of  the  long  bridge  over  the  Potomac,  as  I 
ought  to  have  mentioned,  has  been  undertaken :  but  it 
seems  to  me  a  discouraging  task,  especially  since  the  steam- 
boats carry  so  large  a  part  of  the  travellers  on  the  route  to 
Alexandria. 

Alexandria  is  a  large  town,  with  spacious  stores  near  the 
water,  and  in  the  upper  part  several  streets  of  handsome 
and  even  elegant  houses.  The  view  of  the  city  and  its 
environs,  from  an  eminence  beyond  it,  was  such  as  to  show 
its  extent  and  principal  edifices,  yet  not  to  exhibit  any  thing 
of  its  harbour  or  the  general  plan  of  the  streets.  After  this 
I  had  nothing  like  an  extensive  or  a  pleasing  view  during 
the  rest  of  my  ride,  as  the  season  was  not  far  enough  ad- 
ranced  to  give  the  woods  all  their  beauty,  the  late  rains  had 
rendered  the  road  very  wet,  and  the  habitations  of  men  were 
few  and  poor. 

At  length  I  entered  the  Mount  Vernon  estate ;  and  there 
was  some  feeling  excited  by  the  thought  of  the  cavalcades 
and  personages  that  had  passed  through  the  same  gate.  I 
was  also  reminded  of  visits  I  had  made  to  Roman  villas, 
and  the  deserted  avenues  to  ancient  cities ;  and  my  impres- 
sions were  in  some  respects  similar,  though  in  others  very 
different  from  any  thing  I  had  ever  experienced  before. 
The  solitude  was  as  profound  as  that  of  any  deserted  region 
of  Italy ;  the  habitations  of  men,  at  many  parts  of  the  road, 
seemed  as  distant ;  and  nature  appeared  almost  as  much 
left  to  herself.  But  who  can  describe  the  difference  be- 
tween  the  character  of  Washington  and  that  of  the  ancient 
warriors,  whose  memory  we  associate  with  the  scenes  they 
visited  ?  Though  our  education  teaches  us  far  too  much  to 
admire  them,  plain  sense  as  well  as  Christianity  leads  us  to 


^espis 

will  o 

just  e 

heart  i 

antiqu 

junctic 

exert  i 

Th« 

times 

reache 

nearer 

dwellii 

offered 

on  to 

Twor 

from  t 

what  I 

have  ij 

sloping 

the  pre 

broad 

have  b 

of  land 

The 

moved 

brow  0 

yard  er 

which 

may  g 

scriplio 

alone  i 

I  appro 

and  ho 

define  t 

hours  i 

bitter. 

and  his 

or  who( 

he  may 


TOMB  or  OKNBRAL  WASHINGTON. 


It 


OK. 

they  have  once  been  cut 
to  contemplate  the  grand 
ice,  which  is  visible  from 
inormous  tolls  paid  on  the 
iconveniences  arising  to 
Roads  and  bridges  are 
^ntributions  for  their  sup- 
ead  of  multitudes.  The 
over  the  Potomac,  as  I 
been  undertaken:  but  it 
{specially  since  the  steam- 
travellers  on  the  route  to 

1  spacious  stores  near  the 
ital  streets  of  handsome 
view  of  the  city  and  its 
d  it,  was  such  as  to  show 
^^  not  to  exhibit  any  thing 
of  the  streets.  After  this 
or  a  pleasing  view  during 
was  not  far  enough  ad- 
beauty,  the  late  rains  had 
e  habitations  of  men  were 

i'^ernon  estate ;  and  there 
bought  of  the  cavalcades 
irough  the  same  gate.  I 
1  riade  to  Roman  villas, 
nt  cities ;  and  my  impres- 
lar,  though  in  others  very 
ever  experienced  before, 
hat  of  any  deserted  region 
t  many  parts  of  the  road, 
ppeared  almost  as  much 
iscribe  the  difference  be- 
in  and  that  of  the  ancient 
ciate  with  the  scenes  they 
caches  us  far  too  much  to 
18  Christianity  leads  us  to 


despise  their  motives  and  to  condemn  their  actions.  When 
will  our  children  be  trained  up  to  a  clear  conception  and  a 
just  estimate  of  the  character  of  Washington,  in  whose 
heart  alone  was  more  real  greatness  than  in  all  heathen 
antiquity?  His  principles  and  conduct,  enforced  by  the  in- 
junctions of  the  Scriptures,  what  influence  might  they  not 
exert  upon  the  minds  and  hearts  of  American  youth ! 

The  rear  of  the  family-mansion  appears  two  or  three 
times  through  openings  in  tlie  foliage,  before  the  visiter 
reaches  it ;  and  although  it  is  venerable,  it  shows,  on  a 
nearer  approach,  evident  marks  of  decay.  I  passed  the 
dwellings  of  the  negroes,  wliere  an  old  family  servant 
offered  his  services  as  guide;  and  dismounting,  hastened 
on  to  get  rid  of  the  groups  wliich  assembled  around  me. 
Two  ranges  of  out-buildings,  now  partly  disused,  run  back 
from  the  ends  of  the  mansion  and  form  a  court, — in  which 
what  messengers  have  heretofore  reined  up,  what  guests 
have  alighted !  The  plain  piazza  in  front,  with  the  fine 
sloping  and  partly  shaded  lawn,  descending  to  the  brow  of 
the  precipice  over  the  Potomac,  the  clumps  of  old  trees,  the 
broad  and  winding  river  below,  all  appear  much  as  they 
have  been  represented  for  half  a  century  on  so  many  sorts 
of  landscape  furniture  with  which  we  have  been  familiar. 

The  remains  of  the  father  of  his  country  have  been  re- 
moved within  a  few  months  from  the  old  family-vault,  on  the 
brow  of  the  precipice,  to  a  spot  near  the  corner  of  the  vine- 
yard enclosure,  where  the  rivev  is  concealed  from  view,  but 
which  was  selected  by  him  during  life.  A  hasty  sketch 
may  give  better  ideas  of  its  appearance  than  any  de- 
scription. I  dismissed  my  guide,  that  I  might  indulge 
alone  in  the  feelings  which  had  been  rising  in  my  heart  as 
I  approached  the  spot  I  had  so  long  regarded  with  reverence ; 
and  however  difficult  it  might  be  to  trace  their  source  or  to 
define  their  nature,  I  am  sure  that  I  have  spent  but  few  half- 
hours  in  my  life  in  meditations  more  sweet  and  yet  more 
bitter.  They  need  not  be  detailed.  Whoever  loves  virtue 
and  his  country,  and  has  done  any  thing  less  than  his  duty, 
or  whoever  feels  like  a  son  of  Washuigton,  ho>vever  humble 
he  may  be,  and  apprehends  how  much  reason  there  is  to 

2* 


14 


8TEAND0AT  CONVBRSATIOIf. 


moom  o«er  the  loss  of  his  spirit  and  his  prirciples,  majr 
vrell  conceive  them  if  he  will  imagine  himself  placed  alone 
in  a  solitary  spot  near  tht*  ashes  of  the  dedd.  At  the  same 
time,  to  a  man  of  an  opposite  character  any  description 
would  of  course  be  lost.  I  regretted  here  the  want  of  some 
truly  appropriate  national  music,  when  I  found  myseU' 
breathing  a  very  soil  and  plaintive  Scotch  lament.  Of  all 
the  poeiry  I  have  seen  written  on  Mount  Vernon,  none 
strikes  my  ear  with  so  much  simplicity  and  sweetness, 
mingled  with  so  much  elevation,  as  the  lines  of  Brainerd. 

There  is  something  much  more  congenial  to  my  mind 
in  the  simple  and  indeed  humble  depository  of  the  ashes  of 
Washington  than  in  the  most  splendid  monuments  of  Italy 
•or  even  of  B]gypt.  Where  there  is  no  attempt  made  to 
captivate  the  eye,  the  mind  is  left  at  perfect  freedom  to  form 
her  own  conceptions ;  and  it  is  no  disrespect  to  the  greatest 
artist  to  say,  that  a  refined  and  vinubus  fancy  may  tran- 
scend in  its  conceptions  the  work  of  any  human  hands.  I 
have  no  ol)jection  to  the  erection  of  monuments  to  Wash- 
ington ;  nay,  I  hope  the  day  may  come  when  every  city, 
town,  and  village  in  the  Union  may  possess  one  of  some 
sort,  constructed  in  the  purest  taste :  but  I  feel  that  any 
fabric  of  art  in  this  place  would  be  only  an  impediment  to 
the  mind,  whicti,  if  left  to  itself,  will  create  the  noblest  con- 
ceptions out  of  nothing. 

Surely  enougli  is  not  made  of  the  memory  of  Washington 
in  our  country,  when  we  rellect  what  has  been  and  now  is 
the  influence  of  his  name  in  the  world.  His  great  example 
of  disinterestedness  has  done  more  for  the  human  race  than 
we  can  possibly  ascertain ;  and  is  likely  to  produce  still 
greater  cfiects.  His  birthday  should  be  observed  by  our 
children  as  a  day  of  becoming  joy,  and  our  schools  should 
pour  out  their  young  inhabitants  to  hear  his  virtues  recounted 
and  to  sing  songs  in  his  praise. 

I  returned  from  Alexandria  to  Washmgton  in  the  steamboat. 
There  were  several  Virginians  on  boani,  of  different  classes 
and  characters,  wlw  engaged  in  conversation  on  slavery. 
This  subject,  which  was  longregarded  as  a  prohibited  one,  and 
by  general  consent  excluded  from  conversation  in  all  societies, 
has  become  the  most  general  topic  throughout  the  state,  as 


IRSATIOIf. 

;  and  hin  prirciples,  may 
igine  himself  placed  alone 
of  the  dedd.  At  the  same 
character  any  description 
ted  here  the  want  of  some 
c,  when  I  found  myself 
ire  8cotch  lament.     Of  all 

on  Mount  Vernon,  none 
simplicity  and  sweetness, 
IS  the  lines  of  Brainerd. 
>re  congenial  to  my  mind 
depository  of  the  ashes  of 
end  id  monuments  of  Italy 
e  is  no  attempt  made  to 
at  perfect  freedom  to  form 
9  disrespect  to  the  greatest 

virtuous  fancy  may  tran- 
:  of  any  human  hands.  I 
1  of  monuments  to  Wash- 
»y  come  when  every  city, 
may  possess  one  of  some 
nste :  but  I  feel  that  any 
be  only  an  impediment  to 
vill  create  the  noblest  coa- 

he  memory  of  Washington 
vhat  has  been  and  now  is 
vorld.  His  great  example 
■e  for  the  human  race  than 
is  likely  to  produce  still 
lould  be  observed  by  our 
y;  and  our  schools  should 
}  hear  his  virtues  recounted 

ashmgton  in  the  steamboat. 
1  board,  of  different  classes 
J  conversation  on  slavery, 
ded  as  a  prohibited  one,  and 
sonversation  in  all  societies, 
ic  throughout  the  state,  as 


STKAMBOAT  CONVIRSATIOtf. 


W 


18  well  known,  since  the  legislature  have  taken  it  up  as  a 
wrious  business  of  delibertiiion.  Virginia  has  long  suffered 
under  this  incubus ;  and  from  a  mere  love  of  that  inaction 
which  its  oppressive  weight  has  produced,  has  allowed  it, 
like  a  vampire,  to  overshadow  her  eyes,  and  to  suck  her 
blood.  Nothing  but  a  severe  chock  can  ever  effectually 
arouse  men  from  such  a  lethargy.  "  A  liitle  more  sleep,  a 
little  more  slumber,"  is  a  tune  marked  "  Dacapo  ad  hbitum," 
and  is  generally  sung  over  and  over  for  life.  Nothing  can 
interrupt  it  but  a  louder  note  on  some  different  key.  The 
cracking  of  the  foundation  of  one's  house,  however,  a  rat- 
tling among  the  clapboards  and  shingles,  and  an  induppres- 
sible  scream  of  hunger  from  within,  are  serious  sounds  ;  and 
it  is  no  wonder  that  men  begin  to  look  about  and  talk  when 
things  get  to  such  a  pass,  'llio  further  they  examine,  the 
more  they  perceive  that  time  and  the  elements  are  poor 
masons,  carpenters,  am]  providers  ;  and  that  Hercules  never 
-works  for  a  man  wlio  'ke>eps  his  hands  in  his  pockets. 

My  Virginia  fellow-passengers  seemed  to  me  like  boys 
about  to  sign  their  indentures  to  a  new  trade,  or  seamen  in- 
specting a  ship  which  they  arc  invited  to  man  for  a  long 
voyage.  They  had  many  objections  to  make  against  the 
plan,  principles,  and  aiTangements  proposed,  but  the  reasons 
of  their  reluctance  all  seemed  to  be  comprehended  in  one 
word, — it  looked  too  much  like  har<l  work.  Things  were 
in  a  strange  state  in  Virginia  two  years  ago,  when  nobody 
felt  able  to  speak  of  the  most  obvious  facts,  though  they 
were  the  causes  of  general  suffering  and  of  private  discon- 
tent. Now  they  have  got  upon  the  opposite  extreme,  and 
there  is  danger  only  of  talking  too  much.  They  have  as 
yet  no  distinct,  feasible  plan  proposed;  and  the  question 
appears  to  turnon  a  general  hinge  :  a  change  or  no  change  ? 
A  change  they  wish ;  but  then,  the  first  thought  is,  who 
shall  do  the  wwk  ?  The  apprehension  of  being  obliged  to 
labour  seemed  to  keep  my  fellow-passengers  at  arm's  length 
from  the  point.  It  drove  them  back  to  the  sMu  quo,  but 
as  this  affords  no  resting-place,  they  t;ame  jumping  back 
again,  as  on  a  recoiling  spring,  to  the  necessity  of  a  change. 
My  friends,  the  hardship  of  work  is  not  so  great  as  yoM 


16 


•TBAHBOAT  CONTIRIATION. 


suppose.  Give  up  thin  iiotiun ;  it  has  almost  ruined  you, 
and  will  ruin  you  totally  if  you  luig  it  a  little  lonfjer.  How 
do  we  do  at  the  North?  How  do  they  do  at  the  West! 
The  spade  and  plough  are  not  instruinenis  of  torture :  their 
rough  Jiandles  have  the  same  drug  secreted  in  them  which  was 
concealed  in  the  racket  of  the  Persian  physician,  and  which 
with  exercise  exhaled  its  essence  and  restored  the  health  of 
the  monarch.  Its  influence  also  extends  to  the  intellectual 
and  moral  man.  Suppose  you  had  made  an  experiment  in 
one  of  your  spacious  and  fertile  counties  thirty  years  ago, 
led  your  sons  to  the  field,  and  trained  them  to  the  labours 
which  consolidate  and  invigorate  the  frame.  These  labours, 
at  the  same  time,  foster  a  taste  for  harmless,  cheap,  and 
natural  enjoyments.  How  would  your  fields  have  looked  T 
What  would  have  been  their  products  under  such  improved 
systems  as  you  and  your  sons  might  have  introduced  ?  I 
fancy  I  see  the  little  neighbourhoods  which  would  have  been 
formed,  many  a  field  now  waste  smiling  with  verdure,  books 
and  schools  multiplied,  manufactories  built  on  the  streams, 
good  roads  stretching  hither  and  thither,  happiness  secured 
by  intolligcnce,  virtue,  and  prosperity.  Your  eyes  are 
restless,  your  brows  are  clouded.  There  is  nothing  more 
likely  to  remove  such  symptoms  than  the  siglit  of  our  land 
well  tilled  by  our  own  hands,  the  sounds  of  peace  and  joy 
in  our  habitations;  and  what  idle  man  ever  knew  them? 

It  has  been  bitterly  complained  of  in  Virginia  that  useful 
labour  is  despised ;  and  no  doubt  the  statesmen  who  would 
gain  true  honour  should  take  Cineinnatus  for  their  model. 
A  most  intelligent  and  independent  step  has  been  taken  by 
one  of  the  literary  institutions  of  the  state,  the  results  of 
which  must  be  useful.  Manual  labour  has  been  connected 
with  study  at  Hampden  Sidney  College ;  and  although  the 
opposition  to  it  was  at  first  very  general  and  powerful,  a 
rem-^rkable  change  in  the  opinion  of  the  wise  and  good  has 
already  commenced ;  and  no  one  who  looks  at  the  state  of 
things  can  doubt  that  this  is  one  of  the  most  wise  and  prom- 
ising  steps  which  could  have  been  taken  to  repair  the  wastes 
«f  ^aerations,  aad  to  remould  the  babita  and  condition  of 
tke  people. 


WMhiii^ 
hition- 
TouJ. 

I  NKV 

miscalc 
men,  in 
importa 
every  e 
Broad  s 
the  cent 
impassa 
like  the 
days  of 
at  the  p 
steril  re{ 
to  be  de 
the  grov 
more  ex 
tropolis 
tended 
capitals, 
tiny ;  ai 
trigues. 
and  bril 
Washinj 
exposed 
alike  im 
many  nc 
terests  : 
When  y 
Ihe  sami 
same  t« 


IRIATION. 

it  has  almost  ruined  you, 
iig  it  a  litllu  longer.    Huwr 
lu  they  do  at  the  West? 
Htrumenls  uf  torture :  their 
secreted  in  them  which  was 
rsian  physician,  and  which 
and  restored  the  health  of 
extends  to  the  intellectual 
ad  made  an  experiment  in 
counties  thirty  years  ago, 
rained  them  to  the  labours 
he  frame.    These  labours, 
fur  harmless,  cheap,  and 
I  your  iields  have  looked  T 
ucls  under  such  improved 
igiit  have  introduced?     I 
Js  which  would  have  been 
[iiilirig  with  verdure,  books 
iries  built  on  the  streams, 
thither,  happiness  secured 
speriiy.     Your   eyes   are 
I.     There  is  nothing  more 
hun  the  siglit  of  our  land 
sounds  of  peace  and  joy 
man  ever  knew  them  ? 
of  in  Virginia  that  useful 
the  statesmen  who  would 
neinnatus  for  their  model. 
I  step  has  been  taken  by 
the  state,  the  results  of 
ibour  has  been  connected 
ollege ;  and  although  the 
''  general  and  powerful,  a 
of  the  wise  and  good  has 
who  looks  at  the  state  of 
f  the  most  wise  and  prom- 
taken  to  repair  the  wastes 
le  habits  and  condition  of 


CHAPTER  II. 

WMJiiiigton — Advnnlageii  of  Small  Cnpitali — Salutary  Hintf  to  Aii»» 
bition— Foreigner  diiappointed— More  Refloctioni — Vinea— Kail- 
roaJ. 

I  NEVER  visit  Washington  without  being  reminded  of  the 
miscalculations  which  were  made  by  some  of  our  wisest 
men,  in  relation  to  the  growth  of  the  city  in  population  and 
importance.  The  magnificence  of  the  plan  is  evident  to 
every  eye,  and  so  is  the  total  want  of  power  to  complete  it. 
Broad  avenues,  named  after  the  states,  stretch  indeed  from 
the  centre  towards  various  points ;  but  some  of  them  are 
impassable,  and  others  lead  to  nothing  worth  seeing.  Un- 
like the  great  roads  which  met  in  the  Roman  forum  in  the 
days  of  Roman  greatness,  they  are  more  like  some  of  them 
at  the  present  day,  which  conduct  oi.ly  to  a  deserted  and 
Bteril  region  in  the  vicinity.  Still  there  is  one  gratification 
to  be  derived  from  the  public  disappointment  in  relation  to 
the  growth  of  the  federal  city;  the  intrigues  of  a  court  are 
more  exposed  to  view  than  they  could  be  in  a  large  me- 
tropolis ;  and  the  shades  of  a  great  population  are  not  ex- 
tended over  them  for  their  concealment.  In  European 
capitals,  public  men  are  much  less  exposed  to  public  scru- 
tiny ;  and  great  facilities  are  enjoyed  for  all  sorts  of  in- 
trigues. Besides,  every  thing  connected  with  the  grandeur 
and  brilliancy  of  power  loses  much  of  its  importance  in 
Washington,  because  so  much  of  the  interior  of  things  is 
exposed  to  view.  In  this  city  visiters  and  inhabitants  are 
alike  impressed  with  what  they  see.  Every  year  presents 
many  new  faces  in  the  Houses  of  Congress,  where  new  in- 
terests are  maintained  with  the  same  ardour  as  before. 
When  you  call  on  a  friend,  you  are  perhaps  introduced  into 
Ihe  same  chamber  you  were  in  the  last  winter,  with  the 
same  two  beds  in  the  corners,  the  same  display  of  f^U 


18 


CITY  OF  WASIIINOTON. 


I: 


edged  paper,  and  sealing-wax  upon  the  table,  r.nd  the  same 
symptoms  around  you  of  public  business  and  partisan-spirit, 
while  you  reflect  that  the  former  occupant  of  the  room  and 
of  one  of  the  beds,  restored  again  to  private  life,  is  five 
hundred  or  a  thousand  miles  off,  divested  of  his  feathers, 
and  a  fortunate  man  if  not  the  worse  for  his  campaign  at 
the  seat  of  government. 

In  the  streets  of  Washington  no  warning  seems  omitted 
from  which  a  spectator  might  learn  patriotism,  and  a  states- 
man honesty.  The  stage-horses  wheel  as  gracefully  to  re- 
ceive the  unsuccessful  applicant  for  office  as  to  bring  the 
court-favourite  to  his  lodgings ;  and  the  minister's  furniture 
ahines  as  bright  at  the  auctioneer's  door  on  the  day  of  his 
taking  leave  as  it  did  en  the  evening  of  his  first  drawing- 
room.  Oh  the  silent  lessons  I  have  read  at  the  auctioneer's 
en  ambition  and  her  reward,  tlie  boasted  purity  of  a  popular 
government,  the  value  and  splendour  of  real  virtue,  and  the 
contemptible  character  of  her  counterfeits !  Indeed,  so 
severe  are  some  of  the  sarcasms  thus  practically  presented, 
that  I  was  once  ready  to  exclaim  against  the  punishment 
inflicted  on  a  late  favourite  of  fortune,  then  newly  sunk  ia 
disgrace,  as  greater  than  he  could  bear. 

The  carpets  on  which  his  flatterers  had  stood,  with  smiles 
and  compliments  for  him,  were  now  cheapened  on  account 
of  the  dust  of  courtiers'  feet,  and  the  peculiar  obsequious- 
ness with  which  the  surface  had  been  scraped  at  audiences 
and  levees.  But,  ah !  the  bowls  and  dishes,  the  cups  and 
glasses  out  of  which  so  many  simpering  mouths  had  been 
so  lately  fed,  and  now  scarcely  dry  from  the  unavailing 
banquets :  what  emblems  were  they  of  the  hollowness  and 
brittieness  of  the  station  they  had  recently  embellished! 
The  minion  had  before  possessed  my  secret  contempt  and 
abhorrence ;  but  I  could  now  have  saved  him  the  pangs  of 
such  a  show.  And  yet  such  things  are  salutary.  If  they 
are  able  to  affect  others  as  they  affected  me,  a  walk  through 
Pennsylvania  Avenue  might  cure  the  most  ambitious  and 
corrupt  of  statesmen  and  courtiers. 

Some  of  the  inhabitants  of  Washington  h-^ve  had  intelli- 
gence and  observation  enoagh  to  afford  mucb.  ^teresting  ia- 


formati 
What  \ 
little  m 
deed,  p 
to  form 
Congre 
to  influ 
tries  to 
it  wouU 
by  thci 
often  fo 
ness.  '. 
influ  enc 
tention 
have  ol 
overaw 
To  ai 
the  abs 
features 
to  guan 
ception 
capitol. 
tion  is 
last  wa 
confess 
he  had  ( 
and  del 
tomac, 
house, 
prevent 
such  a 
pose,  u 
Thougl 
neglect 
than  to 
to  becoi 
From  s 
foreigne 
large  p 


IINOTON. 

on  the  table,  rnd  the  same 
business  and  partisan-spirit, 
r  occupant  of  the  room  and 
ain  to  private  life,  is  five 
r,  divested  of  his  feathers, 
vorse  for  his  campaign  at 

no  warning  seems  omitted 
am  patriotism,  and  a  states- 
is  wheel  as  gracefully  to  re- 

for  office  as  to  bring  the 
and  the  minister's  furniture 
er's  door  on  the  day  of  his 
vening  of  his  first  drawing- 
ave  read  at  the  auctioneer's 

boasted  purity  of  a  popular 
dour  of  real  virtue,  and  the 

counterfeits !  Indeed,  so 
s  thus  practically  presented, 
im  against  the  punishment 
brtune,  then  newly  sunk  iu 
dd  bear. 

terers  had  stood,  with  smiles 
now  cheapened  on  account 
ind  the  peculiar  obscquious- 
1  been  scraped  at  audiences 
Is  and  dishes,  the  cups  and 
impering  mouths  had  been 
,y  dry  from  the  unavailing 
they  of  the  hollowness  and 

had  recently  embellished ! 
ed  my  secret  contempt  and 
ive  saved  him  the  pangs  of 
lings  are  salutary.     If  ihey 

affected  me,  a  walk  through 
ire  the  most  ambitious  and 
!rs. 

Vashington  h-^ve  had  intelli- 
0  afford  much  -Jterestiog  ia- 


ABSENCE  or  SOLDIERS. 


1» 


formation  in  relation  to  public  men  and  national  affairs. 
What  we  receive  through  the  newspapers,  or  other  channels 
little  more  correct,  passes  under  their  own  eyes.  And  in- 
deed, perhaps,  no  part  of  the  country  is  left  so  much  alone 
to  form  unbiased  opinions.  While  speeches  are  made  in 
Congress,  written  out,  amended,  and  published  by  thousands 
to  influence  some  couniy,  state,  or  number  of  states,  nobody 
tries  to  discolour  things  to  the  Washingtonians,  knowing  that 
it  would  be  in  vain.  Every  thing  is  therefore  left  to  be  seen 
by  them  without  disguise;  and  the  consequence  is,  they 
often  form  correct  opinions,  and  speak  with  becoming  frank- 
ness. It  is  gratifying  also  to  reflect,  that  local  interests  and 
influences  are  not  likely  to  engross  and  control  tlie  at- 
tention of  the  government  in  so  great  a  degree  as  they 
have  often  done  in  large  cities ;  and  there  is  no  mob  to 
overawe  or  even  to  threaten  their  freedom. 

To  an  American  who  has  seen  any  of  the  capitals  of  Europe, 
the  absence  of  military  display  is  one  of  the  most  agreeable 
features  in  view,  wherever  he  turns.  There  is  not  a  soldier 
to  guard  gates  or  doors  in  Washington,  with  the  single  ex- 
ception of  those  at  the  navy-yard,  a  mile  or  more  from  the 
capitol.  The  total  want  of  every  sign  of  military  prepara- 
tion is  also  very  accordant  with  one's  feelings.  After  the 
last  war  with  England,  a  felon  imprisoned  for  some  crime 
confessed,  as  I  recollect,  that  during  his  career  of  iniquity 
he  had  entered  into  a  conspiracy  to  seize  President  Madison, 
and  deliver  him  to  the  British  ships  then  lying  in  the  Po- 
tomac, while  he  was  a  sentinel  to  guard  the  President's 
house.  As  there  was  not  even  a  wall  of  suflicient  height  to 
prevent  an  approach  to  the  doors,  and  no  other  obstacle, 
such  a  plan  might  have  been  easily  accomplished,  I  sup- 
pose, under  favourable  circumstances,  by  mere  surprise. 
Though  danger  was  thus  in  one  instance  incurred  by  the 
neglect  to  take  military  precautions,  how  much  better  it  is 
than  to  have  the  display  of  paid  soldiers  at  every  turn,  and 
to  become  familiar  with  the  music  and  the  weapons  of  death ! 
From  some  acquaintance  with  the  feelings  and  habits  of 
foreigners,  I  can  say  with  great  confidence,  that  probably  a 
large  proportion  of  the  intelligent  men  of  Europe  would 


so 


ADVANTAGES  OF  SMALL  CAPITALS. 


learn  with  surprise  that  there  is  not  a  -soldier  on  guard  in  the 
capital  of  the  L^iited  States,  even  during  the  sessions  of 
Congress,  although  the  familiar  fact  excites  not  a  thought  in 
our  minds. 

I  have  heard  a  good  deal  said  about  schools  of  eloquence, 
the  rhetorical  talents  of  certain  portions  of  the  country,  and 
native  genius ;  but  I  found  true  in  Washington  what  I  be- 
lieved in  the  French  Chambers  and  the  British  Houses  of 
Lords  and  Commons :  that  many  men  who  suppose  them- 
selves great  orators  are  deficient  in  some  or  all  of  the  indis- 
pensable qualifications ;  and  that  not  a  few  real  orators  are 
unsuspicious  of  their  talents,  or  unconscious  of  what  they 
consist  in.  With  our  early  training  at  school  and  college, 
we  are  very  apt  to  suppose  that  fine  language  must  approach 
the  Latin  standard,  either  in  words  or  arrangement;  and 
after  we  have  lived  long  enough  to  correct  this  mistake,  we 
are  some  time  in  settling  the  great  fact,  that  eloquence  can 
never  consist  in  useless  words.  Yet  nothing  is  more  true ; 
and  although  we  often  find  high  encomiums  passed  by  the 
newspapers  on  particular  speeches,  could  wc  have  witnessed 
their  delivery,  we  should  generally  have  found  them  falling 
blunt  and  dead  upon  the  closed  cars  of  a  thin  and  sleepy 
audience. 

With  abundant  materials  for  thought,  I  took  my  seat  in  a 
stage-coach  for  Baltimore,  and  revived  many  a  recollection 
of  strolls  through  European  palaces  and  prisons,  and  events 
in  the  history  of  courts.  Washington,  thought  L  is  a  me- 
tropolis of  nuisances,  a  capital  of  intrigues,  and  ever  must 
be.  But  yet  how  different  it  is,  in  some  respects,  from  the 
seat  of  an  European  court !  The  profession  of  a  courtier 
requires  a  long  apprenticeship,  which  it  is  almost  impossible 
to  obtain  in  this  country,  among  the  frequent  changes  to 
which  our  system  subjects  us.  Though  the  growth  of  bad 
men  may  be  rapid,  their  career  must  generally  be  short. 
But  what  results  might  not  be  produced,  such  characters 
as  maybe  conceived,  were  allowed  to  prcecute  their  opera- 
tions for  ten,  twenty,  or  thirty  years,  without  fear  of  inter- 
ruption, and  under  the  shelter  of  an  unchanging  dynasty? 


Who  woi 
States,  as 
So  prepi 
madman, 
trained  ir 
be  gratiti 
formance 
may  be  n 
j  even  conj 
I  one  prete 
i  or  why. 
looked  or 
ments,  an 
horses  m 
among  th 
changes  i 
Benefit 
teror  two 
with  men 
distant  st; 
principles 
from  diffe 
a  spirit  ( 
parts  of  I 
observe  tl 
measures 
time  they 
states  wh 
minds  sue 
Hence.  1 
sincere  01 
of  patriot! 
with  intell 
try  is  regi 
liked  by  0 
There  w 
who  had 
had  becor 
of  the  city 


X  CAPITALa. 

a  ■soldier  on  guard  in  the 
!n  during  the  sessions  of 
:;t  excites  not  a  thought  in 

3out  schools  of  eloquence, 
rtions  of  the  country,  and 
in  Washington  what  I  be- 
ind  the  British  Houses  of 
men  who  suppose  them- 
I  some  or  all  of  the  indis- 
not  a  few  real  orators  are 
inconscious  of  what  they 
ng  at  school  and  college, 
3  language  must  approach 
rds  or  arrangement;  and 
»  correct  this  mistake,  we 
It  fact,  that  eloquence  can 
STet  nothing  is  more  true ; 
encomiums  passed  by  the 
,  could  wc  have  witnessed 
y  have  found  them  falling 
cars  of  a  thin  and  sleepy 

)ught,  I  took  my  seat  in  a 
vived  many  a  recollection 
Es  and  prisons,  and  events 
igton,  thought  I,  is  a  me- 
f  intrigues,  and  ever  must 
a  some  respects,  from  the 
e  profession  of  a  courtier 
ich  it  is  almost  impossible 

the  frequent  changes  to 
'hough  the  growth  of  bad 
must  generally  be  short. 
)dufted,  such  characters 
]  to  prcecute  their  opera- 
rs,  without  fear  of  inter- 

an  unchanging  dynasty? 


A  FRKNcnMAN  8  OPINION  OF  WASHINGTON. 


21 


Who  would  ever  think  of  studying  diplomacy  in  the  United 
States,  as  it  is  regularly  studied  in  some  European  countries? 
So  preposterous  a  thing  would  be  undertaken  only  by  a 
madman.  On  the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic,  a  man  well 
trained  in  the  forms  of  international  business  may  expect  to 
be  gratified  with  the  .substantial  rewards  awaiting  its  per- 
formance :  but  here,  selections  of  ministers,  secretaries,  &,c. 
may  be  made  next  year  on  grounds  which  cannot  now  be 
even  conjectured :  and  as  for  five  or  ten  years  hence,  no 
one  pretends  to  foresee  who  may  be  in  a  foreign  embassy, 
or  why.  The  only  offices  in  Washington  which  can  be 
looked  on  as  permanent,  are  a  few  clerkships  in  the  depart- 
ments, and  the  keepers  of  certain  hotels ;  the  very  stage- 
horses  must  stare  at  the  new  faces  they  annually  behold 
among  the  legislators,  and  wonder  why  there  are  so  frequent 
changes  in  that  line. 

Benefit  may  be  derived  by  some  men  from  spending  a  win- 
ter or  two  at  Washington — They  extend  their  acquaintance 
with  men  and  things,  return  with  new  impressions  concerning 
distant  states,  more  enlarged  views  of  national  interests  and 
principles,  and  attachments  contracted  with  estimable  friends 
from  different  districts.  When  questions  arise  which  awaken 
a  spirit  of  division  among  representatives  from  different 
parts  of  the  Union,  they  see  whence  those  feelings  arise, 
observe  their  tendency,  reflect  on  the  danger,  and  devise 
measures  for  their  prevention  or  removal.  At  the  same 
time  they  raise  in  the  opinion  of  others  an  estiii.ation  of  the 
states  which  they  worthily  represent,  and  excite  in  their 
minds  such  reflections  and  feelings  as  they  themselves  expe- 
rience. If  they  have  any  intercourse  with  men  of  a  less 
sincere  or  of  a  really  vicious  character,  their  admiration 
of  patriotism  and  virtue  is  increased ;  and  if  they  converse 
with  intelligent  foreigners,  they  learn  how  highly  our  coun- 
try is  regarded  in  Europe  by  one  class,  and  how  it  is  dis- 
liked by  others. 

There  was  an  elegant  young  Frenchman  in  the  stage-coach, 
who  had  arrived  in  Washington  only  the  day  before,  but 
had  become  so  much  ennuye,  as  he  declared,  at  the  sight 
of  the  city,  that  he  had  hurried  away  from  it,  intending  never 


22 


VINBS. 


I 


to  return.  Now,  why  was  he  disappointed  T  Washington 
certainly  must  be  a  very  diflcreiit  city  from  what  he  had  ex- 
pected to  find  it.  The  seat  of  government,  as  such  alone  it 
appears,  had  not  attracted  him ;  for  Congress,  the  Supreme 
Court,  the  President,  and  all  the  machinery  and  accompani- 
ments  of  it  were  there  to  be  seen,  but  these  he  had  not 
visited.  He  had  missed  the  crowds  and  frivolities  of  Paris, 
— I  will  not  say  the  vices ;  and  see  how  much  we  gain  in 
having  our  capital  in  so  great  a  degree  as  it  is,  divested  of 
these.  In  Europe,  courts  corrupt  capitals,  and  capitals 
courts  and  kingdoms. 

Mr.  Adlum  has  his  vineyard  near  Baltimore,  where  he 
has  had  great  success  in  raising  grapes,  and  even  in  makirig 
wine.  How  unaccountable  it  seems,  that  with  all  the 
sagacity  of  our  countrymen,  the  abundance  of  indigenous 
vines,  and  the  ease  with  which  they,  as  well  as  some  foreign 
«pecies  may  be  cultivated,  this  branch  of  culture  should  have 
-  been  so  little  attended  to.  The  fruit  is  highly  esteemed  by 
us,  vast  quantities  of  wine  are  imported,  and  abundance  of 
miserable  and  pernicious  drinks  is  used  by  persons  who 
might  be  more  cheaply  or  healthfully  furnished  with  whole- 
some weak  wine,  were  the  proper  course  pursued  to  make 
it.  The  vine  is  probably  more  generally  found  in  our  dif- 
ferent states,  and  more  indifferent  to  the  varieties  of  soil, 
than  any  other  plant  we  have.  The  treatment  and  culture 
of  it  are  also  remarkably  cheap.  A  vineyard  of  twenty 
acres  may  be  tended  by  two  men  employed  only  a  part  of 
the  year ;  and  the  value  of  the  harvest  will  be  great  after 
the  second  year.  At  the  same  time,  the  soil  best  adapted 
to  the  vine  is  sandy  and  pebbly,  such  as  is  to  a  great  extent 
now  lying  waste  iu  the  United  States,  as  of  little  or  no 
value. 

Many  vines  are  seen  in  different  parts  of  the  country, 
chiefly  trained  for  ornament  and  shade,  but  how  few  per- 
sons there  are  who  attend  to  the  pruning  or  clipping  of 
them  at  the  proper  season :  operations  which  are  indispen' 
sable  to  the  production  of  a  good  crop,  and  the  neglect  of 
which,  for  a  single  season  in  Europe,  would  cause  an  im' 
mense  loss. 


There  s 
the  Baltin 
ington  Toi 
former  cit 
valley  on 
and  a  coui 
far  beneat 
Potomac, 
constantly 
Mills  may 


Baltim 
and  enter] 
in  Americ 
large  stor 
best  in  th 
busy  peo| 
open  squf 
in  the  rivi 
towards  £ 
signed  to 
inhubitani 
plish  gre: 
main-spri 
which  an 
quarter  o 
Indian  Qi 
of  travell 
quently  t 
door.  T 
very  grei 


sappointed  T  Washington 
city  from  what  he  had  ex- 
vernment,  as  such  alone  it 
or  Congress,  the  Supreme 
nachinery  and  accompani>- 
en,  but  these  he  had  not 
rds  and  frivolities  of  Paris, 
see  how  much  we  gain  in 
iegree  as  it  is,  divested  of 
ipt  capitals,  and  capitals 

icar  Baltimore,  where  he 
[rapes,  and  even  in  making 
leems,    that   with  all  the 

abundance  of  indigenous 
sy,  as  well  as  some  foreign 
nch  of  culture  should  have 
ruit  is  highly  esteemed  by 
nported,  and  abundance  of 

is  used  by  persons  who 
ully  furnished  with  whole- 
r  course  pursued  to  make 
generally  found  in  our  dif- 
it  to  the  varieties  of  soil, 
rhe  treatment  and  culture 
).     A  vineyard  of  twenty 

employed  only  a  part  of 
harvest  will  be  great  after 
time,  the  soil  best  adapted 
uch  as  is  to  a  great  extent 

States,  as  of  little  or  no 

rent  parts  of  the  country, 
i  shade,  but  how  few  per- 
he  pruning  or  clipping  of 
ations  which  are  indispen' 
d  crop,  and  the  neglect  of 
rope,  would  cause  an  im' 


BALTIMORE.  28 

There  are  several  fine  sights  presented  on  that  part  of 
the  Baltimore  and  Ohio  railroad  which  lies  along  the  Wash- 
ington road  for  three  or  four  miles  before  we  reach  the 
former  city.  In  one  place  it  passes  a  broad  and  deep 
valley  on  the  top  of  a  great  embankment,  while  a  stream 
and  a  country-road  cross  its  route  through  arched  openings 
far  beneath.  It  is  travelled  to  the  "  Point  of  Rocks,"  on  the 
Potomac.  The  scenery  to  Fredericktown,  60  miles,  is 
constantly  varying,  and  often  wild  and  romantic.  Ellicott's 
Mills  may  be  compared  with  Little  Falls  on  the  Erie  Canal. 


CHAPTER  III. 

Baltimore — Route  to  Philadelphia — Railroadi. 

Baltimore  has  as  much  the  appearance  of  prosperity 
and  enterprise,  in  proportion  to  its  size,  as  perhaps  any  city 
in  America.  The  broad  and  straight  streets  are  lined  with 
large  stores  and  dwellings,  some  of  which  rival  in  taste  the 
best  in  the  country,  and  are  thronged  with  well-dressed  and 
busy  people.  The  monuments,  rising  high  in  the  air  from 
open  squares,  give  an  imposing  effect ;  while  the  shipping: 
ia  the  river  and  harbour,  and  the  noble  railroads  extending 
towards  Susquehanna  and  the  Ohio,  with  which  it  is  de- 
signed to  open  a  direct  commimication,  indicate  that  the 
inhabitants  have  the  intelligence  and  the  ability  to  accomi- 
plish  great  things,  to  promote  that  commerce  which  is  the 
main-spring  of  the  city.  The  number  of  stage-coaches 
which  arrive  and  depart  is  truly  astonishing.  Scarcely  a 
quarter  of  an  hour  passed,  when  I  was  so  shuated  at  the 
Indian  Queen  as  to  observe  the  street,  without  the  alighting 
of  travellers  or  the  strapping  on  of  more  baggage ;  and  fre- 
quently several  stage-coaches  stood,  at  once  before  the 
door.  The  travelling  by  steamboats  and  railroads  is  also 
wry  great ;  so  that  whea  navigation  is  ogen  and  Congress 


34 


VALVE  OF  PUBLIC  INTKLLIOENCE. 


1 


is  in  session,  the  place  is  one  of  our  greatest  thoroughfares. 
The  multitudes  coming  from  the  West  imprebs  one  with  the 
rapid  increase  of  population  in  tiio»e  flourishing  regions. 

Baltimore  has  few  monuments  to  public  intelligence  worthy 
of  the  name.  There  are  few  ohjecis  which  I  have  seen,  that 
convey  the  idea,  so  gratifying  to  a  stranger  and  so  honour- 
able to  the  citizens,  that  in  this  place  knowledge  is  duly 
appreciated,  and  useful  learning  is  shared  by  all  classes.  I 
speak  of  monuments  as  the  Europeans  use  the  word :  that 
is,  as  public  edifices. 

The.  University  can  scarcely  be  said  to  exist  in  any 
branch  but  the  medical  department,  which  has  above  one 
hundred  students.  The  Athenaeum  has  42,000  volumes  in 
its  library.  Public  education  is  improving  rapidly.  Four 
fine  schoolhouses  have  been  recently  erected.  No.  4,  in 
Hanover-street,  is  a  be»'itiful  specimen  of  architecture, 
being  constructed  of  whitish  granite,  with  a  tasteful  fagade. 
These  buildings  are  much  more  ornamental  than  the  public 
schools  of  New- York.  May  the  interior  prove  but  as  use- 
ful, and  Baltimore  will  have  abundant  reason  to  value  her 
new  acquisitions. 

There  are  persons  in  every  considerable  community 
among  us,  whose  real  pecuniary  interest  would  be  consulted 
by  the  cultivation  of  knowledge ;  and  from  these  some  ex- 
ertions might  be  expected,  at  least,  on  the  ground  of  sound 
mercantile  speculation.  Although  I  would  wish  to  see 
loftier  motives  than  this  brought  into  operation  on  such  a 
subject,  my  chief  desire  is  that  the  important  benefits  may 
be  at  any  rate  enjoyed.  Teachers  and  booksellers  are 
directly  interested  in  the  case ;  and  one  would  suppose  that 
men  of  real  literary  or  scientific  attamments  would  wish  to 
have  their  merits  judged  of  by  an  enlightened  public,  or  seek 
to  cultivate  knowledge  among  those  around  them,  that  they 
might  enjoy  the  pleasure  of  participating.  One  would  think, 
too,  that  as  public  peace  and  private  security  can  be  enjoyed 
only  amid  good  order,  intelligence,  and  morality,  every  indi- 
vidual would  feel  the  elevation  of  public  intelligence  to  be 
a  matter  of  personal  interest,  and  lend  his  voice  and  counte- 
nance, if  not  his  purse,  to  its  aid.  And  as  our  females  are 
generally  more  dependant  than  njen  upon  the  state  of  socijety 


around  the 
of  intellect 
occasion  to 

I  its  favour. 

i  extent,  wit 

'  noble  work 
in  possess 
of  the  eoun 
to  render  tl 

I  for  com  me 
money  best 
dation  of  a 
memoratin^ 
There  is 
boat  from 
sides  is  po 
exhausting 
and  almost 
a  tree  show 
and  there  i: 
be  called  sc 
moderate  si 
is  excellent 
remonstrant 
the  continu 
to  slavery,  ( 
How  desire 
displayed  o 
recovered  t< 
One  of  t 
are  more  < 
aware.  At 
dead  of  nig 
with  some 
Some  half  ( 
blows  whici 
such  inform 
ensued  bet 
neighbours 


XLIOENCE. 

r  greatest  thoroughfares. 
est  imprebs  one  with  the 
e  flourishing  regions, 
nblic  intelligence  worthy 
>  which  I  h<ive  seen,  that 
stranger  and  so  honour- 
lace  knowledge  is  duly 
shared  by  all  classes.  I 
ans  use  the  word :  that 

e  said  to  exist  in  any 
It,  which  has  above  one 
I  has  42,000  volumes  in 
(proving  rapidly.  Four 
itly  erected.  No.  4,  in 
ecimen  of  architecture, 
I,  with  a  tasteful  fagade. 
lamental  than  the  public 
titerior  prove  but  as  use- 
aint  reason  to  value  her 

;onsiderable  community 
erest  would  be  consulted 
nd  from  these  some  ex- 
,  on  the  ground  of  sound 

I  would  wish  to  see 
ito  operation  on  such  a 
!  important  benefits  may 
rs   and  booksellers  are 

one  would  suppose  that 
tamments  would  wish  to 
dightened  public,  or  seek 
5  around  them,  that  they 
ating.  One  would  think, 
;  security  can  be  enjoyed 
and  morality,  every  indi- 
puhlic  intelligence  to  be 
:nd  his  voice  and  counte- 

And  as  our  females  are 

upon  the  state  of  society 


f 


STEAMBOAT  ADVENTURE. 


M 


around  them,  and  not  less  capable  of  appreciating  the  value 
of  intellectual  refinement,  they  should  be  ready  on  every 
occasion  to  throw  their  powerful  influence  into  the  scale  in 
its  favour.  Strange  it  is,  that  amid  a  population  of  such 
extent,  with  so  much  prosperity  and  wealth,  with  sueh 
noble  works  for  internal  communication  as  are  in  progress, 
in  possession  of  every  facility,  and  so  near  .he  capital 
of  the  country,  there  should  be  any  delay  to  adopt  measures 
to  render  this  city  as  much  distinguished  for  inteiligenee  as 
for  commercial  enterprise.  One  half  the  ingenuity  and 
money  bestowed  upon  a  single  structure,  might  lay  the  foun- 
dation of  a  far  more  necessary  monument  than  that  com* 
memorating  a  battle. 

There  is  but  little  to  interest  the  traveller  in  the  steam- 
boat from  Baltimore  to  Frenchtown.  The  soil  on  both 
sides  is  poor,  and  large  tracts  have  been  impoverished  by 
exhausting  crops  in  years  past,  and  consequently  neglected 
and  almost  deserted.  Not  a  building,  or  a  wall,  or  scarcely 
a  tree  shows  signs  of  even  local  or  individual  prosperity; 
and  there  is  nothing  which  approaches  nearer  to  what  may 
be  called  scenery,  than  rough  banks  and  some  bare  hills  of. 
moderate  size.  In  some  places,  at  a  distance  in  the  interior,, 
is  excellent  land ;  but  all  we  see  hereabouts  justifies  the 
remonstrances  made  in  the  legislature  of  Maryland  against 
the  continuance  of  the  present  state  of  things  with  regard 
to  slavery,  on  account  of  its  ruinous  influence  on  agriculture. 
How  desirable  it  is  that  the  necessary  energy  should  be 
displayed  on  such  a  waste  territory,  and  that  it  should  be 
recovered  to  fertility  and  usefulness. 

One  of  those  scenes  I  once  witnessed  here,  to  which  we 
are  more  exposed  in  stieamboats  than  we  are  generally 
aware.  An  insane  man,  who  was  a  passenger,  rose  in  the 
dead  of  night,  and  waked  us-  from  sleep  in  the  darkness^, 
with  some  of  the  most  shocking  screams  I  ever,  heardi 
Some  half  dozen  men  were  roused  at  the  samo  time  with, 
blows  which  he  gave  them  at  a  venture ;  and  to  judge  from 
such  information  as  was  to  be  obtained,  an  angry  scufile 
ensued  between  them,  each  erroneously  supposing  his 
neighbours  the  aggressors.     A  light  brought  about  such  an 

3* 


M 


EAU.ROA9S.. 


f 


explanation  as  caused  a  cessation  of  hostilities ;  but  it  was 
long  before  the  cause  of  the  confusion  was  discovered,  and 
still  longer  before  the  wily  maniac  was  confined  and  silenced. 
We  are  always  exposed  to  a  panic  whenever  the  cabin  is 
left  at  night  without  a  light ;  and  why  serious  accidents  do 
not  often  occur,  I  cannot  tell. 

One  of  the  happiest  effects  of  travelling  on  railroads  is 
the  freedom  it  gives  you  from  the  impertinence  and  imposi- 
tions of  porters,  cartnien,  et  omne  id  genus,  who  infest 
common  steamboat  landings.     A  long  and  solitary  row  of 
carriages  was  standing  on  the  shore  awaiting  our  arrival ; 
not  a  shout  was  heard,  scarcely  any  thing  was  seen  to  move 
except   the   locomotive,  and   the   arms  of  the  man  who 
caught  the  rope  thrown  from  our  boat.     The  passengers 
were  filed  off  along  a  planked  walk  to  the  carriages  through 
one  gangway,  while  their  luggage,  which  had  already  been 
stowed  safely  away,  was  rolled  on  shore  by  another,  in 
tv'o  light  wagons ;  and  almost  without  speaking  a  word,  the 
scats  were  occupied,  the  wagons  attached  behind,  the  half- 
locomotive  began  to  snort,  and  the  whole  retinue  was  on 
the  way  with  as  little  ado  and  as  little  loss  of  time  as  I 
have  been  guilty  of  in  telling  the  story.    The  men  and  boys 
who  should,  or  rather  would  have  been  on  the  spot,  halloo- 
ing and  bawling,  but  for  the  railroad,  it  is  to  be  hoped  were 
somewhere  in  better  business.     1  wish  them  nothing  worse, 
while  I  wish  travellers  nothing  better  than  to  be  thus  rid  of 
them — whenever  they  can  as  well  do  without  them. 

I  had  one  very  pleasant  reflection  to  make  upon  the  route 
of  this  railroad,  viz.,  that  it  had  not  injured  a  single  valuable 
farm,  or  crossed  a  spot  of  good  soil. 

What  is  to  come  on  the  back  of  railroads  I  do  not  know, 
or  how  long  it  will  be  before  they  are  to  be  in  their  turn 
superseded  by  some  more  economical  or  rapid  expedient,  as 
they  have  superseded  canals.  When  the  great  canal  was 
cut  across  this  very  cape  a  few  years  since,  competition  was 
as  little  apprehended,  even  in  the  transportation  of  pas- 
sengers, as  it  is  now  on  this  road.  And  in  a  country  where 
we  are  as  ready  to  act  on  a  new  suggestion,,  and  to  push  a 
aew  experiment  to  the  utmost,  as  we  are  to  embrace  a  new 


opinion,  wh( 
are  before  i 

Steambo 
spheres,  hii 
among  our 
look  upon  I 
formerly  th< 
preclude  th 
which  is  n( 
of  a  sense 
estrangcmei 
and  degrees 
dried  up  rivi 
They  have, 
seven-leagu 
Slates.  Ai 
formed !  A 
home  tooui 
Louisiana ! 
that  they  ha 
them  all,  th 
canal-boat, 
the  railroad 
us  with  a  ] 
have  been  j 
intercourse 
rience  of  ol 
from  them  ii 

On  read 
boat,  the  pa 
soon  safely 
rolled  in  up< 
dise  may  be 
in  stormy  v 
housed  as  cc 
milch  cow  i 

Many  pk 
along  the  D 
on  either  ha 


f 


THE  DKLAWARE. 


n 


*  hostilities ;  but  it  was 
ion  was  discovered,  and 
ks  confined  and  silenced, 
whenever  the  cabin  is 
ly  serious  accidents  do 

ravelling  on  railroads  is 
npertinence  and  iinposi- 
e  id  genus,  who  infest 
mg  and  solitary  row  of 
>re  awaiting  our  arrival ; 

thing  was  seen  to  move 
arms  of  the  man  who 

boat.  The  passengers 
.  to  the  carriages  through 
which  had  already  been 
)n  shore  by  another,  in 
out  speaking  a  word,  the 
ittached  behind,  the  half- 
le  whole  retinue  was  on 

little  loss  of  time  as  I 
ory.  The  men  and  boys 
been  on  the  spot,  halloo- 
id,  it  is  to  be  hoped  were 
vish  theht  nothing  worse. 
Iter  than  to  be  thus  rid  of 
do  without  them, 
m  to  make  upon  the  route 
t  injured  a  single  valuable 
I. 

railroads  I  do  not  know, 
'  are  to  be  in  their  turn 
ical  or  rapid  expedient,  as 
tien  the  great  canal  was 
LTS  since,  competition  was 
e  transportation  of  pas- 
And  in  a  country  where 
uggestion,.  and  to  push  a 
we  are  to  embrace  a  new 


opinion,  who  can  tell  what  new  plans,^  what  new  enterprises 
are  before  us  1 

Steamboats,  canals,  and  railroads,  in  their  diiTorent 
spheres,  have  done  so  much  to  promote  brotherly  h>ve 
among  our  countrymen,  and  promise  so  much  more,  that  I 
look  upon  them  wiih  a  kind  of  afl'eciionate  gratitude.  We 
formerly  thought  that  the  vast  extent  of  our  territory  would 
preclude  that  intimate  intercourse  between  distant  parts 
which  is  necessary  to  unity  of  feeling ;  and  that  the  want 
of  a  sense  of  mutual  dependunce  would  foster  mutual 
estrangement :  but  these  improvements  have  eaten  up  miles 
and  degrees  of  space,  levelled  mountains,  contracted  plains, 
dried  up  rivers,  and  drank  up  half  the  water  on  our  coasts. 
They  have,  as  it  were,  made  a  present  of  a  good  pair  of 
seven-league  boots  to  every  son  and  daughter  of  the  United 
States.  And  what  gadding  on  a  large  scale  is  now  per- 
formed !  What  long  jumps  do  we  annually  make  from 
home  to  our  neighbours  of  Maine,  Michigan,  Kentucky,  and 
Louisiana !  It  has  been  said  of  some  of  our  countrymen 
that  they  have  no  home  :  but  it  might  be  more  truly  said  of 
them  all,  that  they  have  half  a  dozen ;  the  stage-coach,  the 
canal-boat,  the  steamboat,  the  packet-ship,  the  inn,  and  now 
the  railroad  car.  The  vehicles  for  travelling  thus  furnish 
us  with  a  practical  refutation  of  all  the  prognostics  that 
have  been  proclaimed  of  evil  to  our  country,  from  want  of 
intercourse  between  its  different  parts,  founded  on  the  expe- 
rience of  other  nations ;  for  they  have  made  us  to  differ 
from  them  in  this  most  essential  particular. 

On  reaching  Newcastle,  the  cars  stop  near  the  steam- 
boat, the  passengers  alight  upon  a  wooden  stage,  and  are 
soon  safely  embarked,  while  their  luggage  is  dexterously 
rolled  in  upon  the  forward  deck.  Cars  laden  with  merchan- 
dise may  be  driven  into  a  large  store-house,  to  be  protected 
in  stormy  weather  or  at  night,  and  fifty  of  them  may  be 
housed  as  comfortably  and  with  as  little  ceremony  as  an  old 
milch  cow  in  a  farmer's  barn. 

Many  pleasant  little  spots  of  cultivated  land  are  seen 
along  the  Delaware,  chiefly  on  the  Pennsylvania  side ;  and 
on  either  hand  are  numerous  patches  rescued  ffom  the  river 


PHILA'DCLPIIIA. 


by  stone  walls  and  banks  of  earth,  which  exclude  the  water 
when  it  rises,  and  preserve  the  crops  from  overflow.  Few 
travellers  know  the  pleasant  scenes  which  are  found  a  little 
in  the  interior,  as  no  great  route  passes  through  them  ;  and 
many  of  the  inhabitants,  being  almost  cut  off  from  inter* 
course  with  the  world,  are  little  aflccted  by  the  exciting  itv 
fluences  of  the  day,  so  irresistible  to  those  who  are  exposed 
to  them.  This  is  particularly  true  of  a  portion  of  New- 
Jeraey,  not  far  remote.  What  a  bitter  enemy  to  human  im- 
provement is  a  pine  barren !  It  is  the  best  emblem  we  can 
show  of  a  real  European  Ifgitimate.  It  keeps  the  people 
en  the  borders  of  starvation,  so  that  let  the  thirst  of  the 
mind  for  knowledge  be  never  so  great,  it  is  always  exceeded 
by  the  famine  of  the  stomach.  It  separates  men  as  far 
asunder  as  possible,  and  thus  the  fire  of  knowledge,  like 
scattered  brands,  can  never  kindle  into  a  ^laze.  How  these 
obstacles  are  to  be  overcome,  by  what  mei.n8  we  can  hope 
to  triumph  over  poverty  and  distance  in  intellectnal,  as  we 
can  in  physical  respects,  ie  yet  to  be  determined.  Certain 
it  is  that  this  is  a  question  of  great  importance ;  and  the 
success  we  have  had  in  improvements  of  less  consequence 
should  stimulate  our  exertions  in  this. 


CHAPTER  IV; 

Philadelphia. 

Philadelphia  has  beauties  and  excellences  of  its  own/ 
None  of  our  other  cities  has  so  fine  a  kitchen-garden  n» 
Southwark,  or  displays  so  much  of  the  beauty  of  utility  and 
uniformity  in  its  streets.  In  justice,  however,  I  must  allow 
that  no  suburbs  can  be  more  forbidding,  and  no  introduction 
to  a  large  town  less  promising,  than  the  access  by  some  of 
the  great  routes.  I  hope  the  boasted  literar}'  character  of 
the  citizens  is  not  more  apparent  than  real.     Whether  it  be 


so  or  not,  I  sine 

;  able  quality,  wli 

credit  of  it.    Wc 

'  between  the  iiiti 

aggregate  shouli 

better  to  lalmur 

the  whole  stock. 

Why  Philade 

I  am  sure  I  cam 

Boston,  or  New 

within  their  rci 

considerable  lite 

the  inhabitants 

strictions  which 

of  our  advantagi 

sigh  for  the  time 

us.     It  probably 

gence,  virtue,  an 

as  the  decided  cl 

and   total  chan^j 

timidity  on  one  s 

around,  hem  in  a 

of  any  of  our  citi 

perversion  of  the 

notorious  punstei 

puns  in  a  half 

twelvemonth. 

promote  solid  lea 

Athenaeum,  FranI 

provide  lectures, 

are  of  course  first 

must  invite  the 

think,  more  than 

How  anybody  cai 

threading  the  cro( 

Boston,  especiall) 

is  difHcuit  to  tell. 

There  is  one  i 

the  persuasion  ah 


PHILADKI.PIIIA. 


M 


I  exclude  the  water 
n  ovcrfkiw.  Few 
h  are  found  a  little 
hrough  them ;  and 
:ut  off  from  inter* 
by  the  exciting  itv 
e  who  are  exposed 
I  portion  of  New- 
lemy  to  human  im- 
3st  emblem  we  can 
keeps  the  people 
t  the  thirst  of  the 
is  always  exceeded 
aratcs  men  as  far 
of  knowledge,  like 
Maze.  How  these 
nei.ns  we  can  hope 
intellectual,  as  we 
:ermined.  Certain 
portance ;  and  the 
f  less  conaequenco 


Uences  of  its  own.* 
kitchen-garden  n» 
leauty  of  utility  and 
ever,  I  must  allow 
md  no  introduction 
access  by  some  of 
terarj'  character  of 
al.     Whether  it  be 


so  or  not,  I  sincerely  wish  them  fen-fold  of  this  commend- 
l  able  quality,  which  they  value  enough  at  least  to  claim  the 
credit  of  it.  We  need  not  wish  to  institute  exact  comparisons 
'  between  the  intellectual  merits  of  any  of  our  cities,  lest  the 
'^gg^^g^^e  should  reflect  upon  the  country.  It  were  much 
better  to  lal)our  zealously  by  combined  exertions  to  increase 
the  whole  slock. 

Why  Philadelphia  should  not  be  the  Athens  of  America, 
I  am  sure  I  cannot  tell,  nor  wliat  should  prevent  Baltimore, 
Boston,  or  New- York.     The  people  have  all  the  means 
within  their  reach.     Wo  are  in   the  habit  of  attributing 
considerable  literary  honour  to  some  of  the  cities  of  Europe, 
the  inhabitants  of  which  are  bound  on  every  hand  by  re- 
strictions which  greatly  impede  them  ;  while  we,  insensible 
of  our  advantages,  so  superior  in  many  respects,  indolently 
sigh  for  the  time  when  learning  will  take  up  its  abode  among 
us.     It  probably  is  in  the  power  of  individuals  of  intelli- 
gence,  virtue,  and  influence,  now  living,  by  only  coming  out 
as  the  decided  champions  of  knowledge,  to  effect  a  speedy 
and   total  change  of  things  in  the  United  States.      But 
timidity  on  one  side,  old  habits  on  another,  and  business  all 
around,  hem  in  and  shoot  down  all  the  hopes  we  entertain 
of  any  of  our  citizens  here  and  elsewhere.     Punning  is  the 
perversion  of  the  use  of  words ;  and  the  Philadelphians  are 
notorious  punsters.     Some  of  them  will  manufacture  more 
puns  in  a  half  hour  than  you  may  hear  elsewhere  in  a 
twelvemonth.      They   have   some  fine    institutions  which 
promote  solid  learning  among  different  classes,  such  as  the 
Athenaeum,  Franklin  Library,  and  sundry  societies  which 
provide  lectures,  books,  &,c.     In  medical  institutions  they 
are  of  course  first.    The  general  aspect  of  the  city  certainly 
must  invite  the  mind  to  study  and  reflection,  one  would 
think,  more  than  that  of  most  other  towns  in  the  Union. 
How  anybody  can  pursue  a  straight  train  of  thought  while 
threading  the  crooked  lanes  and  alleys  of  New- York  and 
Boston,  especially  with  the  din  of  the  former  in  his  ears,  it 
is  diflicult  to  tell. 

There  is  one  reason  why  I  prefer  Philadelphia ;  I  feel 
the  persuasion  always  upon  me  that  every  thing  is  clean. 


•0  PNILADELPHIA. 

The  breadth  and  uniformity  of  the  streets  favour  cleanlinesf, 
and  a  gtiait  deal  of  washing  and  scrubbing  is  visible ;  for 
whatever  house  you  enter,  you  see  hydrunta,  and  tubfl,  and 
baths,  and  rills  of  living  water,  and  have  the  satisfaction  of 
reflecting  that  hogsheads  and  rivers  of  it  are  daily  used  lu 
good  purpose. 

The  elevated  banks  of  the  Schuylkill  are  oma»Tiented  with 
several  fine  public  institutions,  among  which  tiie  Marine 
IJospittil  is  conspicuous.  The  marble  i|uarries,  a  short  dis- 
tance up  that  stream,  afford  most  valuable  facilities  for  tho 
erection  of  edifices  of  a  beautiful  material.  A  tour  of  visita- 
tion to  the  Water  Works,  Penitentiary,  House  of  Refuge,  &c., 
out  of  the  city,  and  the  various  pul)lic  buildings,  exhibitions, 
6ic.  within,  will  afford  any  traveller  much  interest,  and  he 
will  see  and  hear  things  important  to  be  known,  loo  numer- 
ous to  write  or  to  read.  Though  the  state  is  sadly  de- 
Acient  in  public  schools,  there  are  some  good  ones ;  and 
the  infant  schools  of  this  city  have  been  celebrated.  The 
American  Sunday  School  Union  has  its  centre  here ;  and 
the  publishing  apparatus  is  very  extensive.  Tlicy  have 
for  several  years  issued  about  a  million  of  little  volumes 
annually,  and  have  taken  great  pains  to  improve  the  char- 
acter of  works  for  the  intellectual,  moral,  and  religious 
instruction  of  the  young. 

But  one  who  is  bound  on  a  long  journey  must  not  allow 
himself  to  be  too  long  detained  by  the  agreeable  objects  of, 
this  orderly  and  well-arranged  city. 


NewVork— /I 

Whoever  vis 

maker's  shop ;  e 

feels  on  leaving  i 

anew,  and  belter 

hears  a  clicking, 

every  thing  he  1 

corner  but  what 

is  no  inactivity;  ( 

and  mind  at  once 

«xcited  by  the  j 

compelled  to  bes 

a  man  has  any  s' 

step  quicker  in  B 

and  if  he  have  i 

make  him  keep  ] 

avoid  collision  w 

the  cross-walks  ti 

Another  great 

about  New- York 

are  seen  by  so  lai 

pression  was  prod 

the  stage-coaches 

at  irregular  houn 

to  witness  the  de\ 

six  and  seven  in  i 

the  compass,  like  i 

point  to  take  the  ( 

rives,  the  hissing 

ceases,  the  depart 


favour  cleanlineM, 
ling  is  visible;  for 
iint!i,  and  tubfl,  and 
!  the  siUiflfiiclion  of 

arc  daily  used  to 

re  oma'nented  with, 
whicli  tiiG  MiiriiiP 
larrit'H,  »  s>iort  dis- 
)lc  facilities  for  the 
.  A  tuur  of  visita- 
uae  of  Refuge,  &c., 
Idings,  oxhibitionSf 
3h  interest,  and  he 
known,  too  numer< 
state  is  sadly  de- 
e  good  ones ;  and 
celebrated.  The 
centre  here ;  and 
iive.  Tliey  have 
1  of  little  volumes 
I  improve  the  char- 
)ral,  and  religious 

ley  must  not  allow 
greeable  objects  of. 


'  CHAPTER  V. 

New.Vork-Aclivity  of  Citizen.-Mcrchnnli-SociotiM- 

>Stfathbuati,  « 

Whokver  visits  New. York  feels  as  he  does  in  a  watch^ 
makers  shop;  everybody  .^oes  there  for  the  true  time,  and 
feels  on  leavmg  it  as  if  he  had  been  wound  up  or  regulated 
anew,  and  belter  than  he  could  have  done  it  himself.     He 

IT  "!•'•'''*'"»;  «V'  """■■"'  °"  ""  "'^•'»  of  '"'".  «"d  finds 
every  thmg  he  looks  at  m  movement,  and  not  a  nook  or 
corner  but  what  is  brim-fuil  of  business.  Apparently  there 
IS  no  mactivuy ;  that  is,  no  person  is  quiescent  both  in  body 
and  mmtl  at  once.  The  reason  of  this  is,  that  the  lazy  are 
«xci.ed  by  the  perpetual  motion  of  the  busy,  or  at  least 
compelled  to  bestir  themselves  to  avoid  being  run  over  If 
a  man  has  any  sympathetic  excitability,  he  will  inevitably 
step  quicker  in  Broadway  than  in  an  ox-path  in  the  country; 
and  If  he  have  none,  a  regard  for  his  flesh  and  bones  wil 
make  him  keep  pace  with  the  crowd  with  which  he  moves 
avoid  collision  with  that  which  he  meets,  and  hurry  ov'; 
the  cross-walks  to  escape  the  carts  and  omnibuses. 

abou^  New  r\'  -"".r  ":^^'  '^"^  "  "^^  '""^'^  excitement 
about  New-York  is,  that  the  principal  vehicles  for  travelling 

are  seen  by  so  large  a  portion  of  the  population.  Little  im- 
pression was  produced  on  the  public  in  former  dayHhTn 
the  stage-coaches  took  off  most  of  the  travellers  by  night  or 
at  irregular  hours:  but  what  can  be  more  animating  than 
U^^witness  the  departure  or  arrival  of  the  steamboauV  a" 
8.x  and  seven  in  the  morning  boats  start  for  all  quartern  of 
^compass,  .ke  so  many  carrier-pigeons,  released  from  one 
rTves  11  >"  '""f'"  '^'y  ^''°°««-  When  the  hour  a"! 
Zs;.  ih.  T'"^  ""''  "^"'"^  ''^  '^^  steam-pipe  suddenly 
ceases,  the  departing  travellers  spring  on  board,  their  re- 


MERCHANTS. 


maining  friends  fly  for  the  shore,  the  wheels  move  as  if  by 
instinct,  artd  boats  tear  friend  from  friend.     No  row-boat  is 
left  behina,  as  formerly,  to  accommodate  those  who  lag  be- 
hind :  the  day  of  toleration  for  the  lazy  lias  passed  ;  and  all 
the  comfort  they  receive,  when  they  beg  a  moment's  delay, 
is  an  assurance  that  they  will  be  » in  time  for  the  next  boat." 
But  in  spite  of  all  such  warnings,  we  find  the  ancient  race 
of  the  Loiterers  not  quite  extinct.     They  are  found  at  every 
Bttamboat-landing  in  the  country  punctually  at  their  time ; 
that  is,  half  a  minute  at  least  too  late :  and  if  the  moment 
for  starting  should  be  delayed  until  to-morrow  or  next  week, 
they  still  would  so  contrive  it  as  to  keep  up  their  consistency. 
This  spirit  of  delay  once  detained  one  of  my  travelling  com- 
panions a  little  too  long,  and  separated  us  for  a  part  of  the 
route  on  the  enjoyment  of  which  we  had  indulged  anticipa- 
tions, loading  one  of  us  with  a  double  portion  of  luggage, 
and  at  the  same  time  depriving  the  other  of  a  change  of 
raiment.    I  once  saw  an  orange-seller  hurry  on  shore  at  the 
signal  for  starting,  without  waiting  to  give  change  to  a  cu«- 
tomer,  whose  money  he  held  under  pretence  that  he  had  no 
time;  and  in  another  instance  a  man,  who  meditated  a 
similar  trick  on  his  porter,  was  pulled  back  by  him  for  pay, 
and  detained  on  shore,  while   his   spouse  was  taken  to 
another  city  without  him. 

One  would  think,  from  the  activity  of  the  New- York 

merchant,  that  he  must  be  wholly  absorbed  in  the  pursuit 

of  wealth :  but  on  becoming  acquainted  with  the  facts,  you 

often  find  that  he  only  redoubles  his  activity  in  business 

hours  to  gain  time  for  some  other  employment  which  he 

prefers.     Not  a  small  proportion  of  the  whole  number  are 

connected  with  some  society  for  the  promotion  of  the  good 

of  their  fellow-citizens  as  fellow-men,  in  morals,  intelligence, 

religion,  or  some  other  important  interests.     This  is  by  no 

means  true  of  all,  nor  of  so  many  as  would  be  desirable,  as 

is  proved  by  the  fact,  that  numbers  are  members  of  two, 

three,  and  sometimes  more  associations.     They  take  their 

intelligence  and  activity  with  them  wherever  they  go  ;  and 

therefore  in  their  society  or  committee-rooms,  with  the  aid 

of  their    commercial   punctuality,    clear-sightedness,   and 


promptitud 

a  saving  ol 

different  lu 

active  mer 

astonish  ar 

mate  of  it. 

annually  c( 

objects  wo 

be  easily  b 

large  shar 

individuals 

not  merely 

the  prospe( 

from  the  e: 

influential 

amples  of  i 

those  who  I 

and  anothei 

es'«d  bene! 

have  becom 

have  alreai 

It  is  high 

and  emplo} 

occupy  iinpc 

them  for  mt 

great  object 

by  the  fatlu 

vantages,  th 

employment 

they  have  1 

their  philan 

rity,  and  pn 

excellent  in 

sphere.     Tl 

responsible  i 

the  good  of  ( 

to  witness  t 

schools.  Bib 

less  gratifyij 


wheels  move  as  if  by 
riend.     No  row-boat  is 
late  those  who  lag  be- 
zy  lias  passed  ;  and  all 
beg  a  moment's  delay, 
time  for  the  next  boat." 
B  find  the  ancient  race 
'hey  are  found  at  every 
mctually  at  their  time ; 
e :  and  if  the  moment 
9-morrow  or  next  week, 
ep  up  their  consistency. 
16  of  my  travelling  com- 
ted  us  for  a  part  of  the 
:  had  indulged  anticipa- 
Lible  portion  of  luggage, 
i  other  of  a  change  of 
sr  hurry  on  shore  at  the 

0  give  change  to  a  cua- 
pretence  that  he  had  no 
man,  who  meditated  a 
ed  back  by  him  for  pay, 

spouse  was  taken  to 

ivity  of  the  New- York 
absorbed  in  the  pursuit 
inted  with  the  facts,  you 
his  activity  in  business 
r  employment  which  he 
■  the  whole  number  are 
e  promotion  of  the  good 
1,  in  morals,  intelligence, 
nterests.  This  is  by  no 
,8  would  be  desirable,  as 
rs  are  members  of  two, 
itions.     They  take  their 

1  wherever  they  go  ;  and 
littee-rooms,  with  the  aid 

clear-sightedness,  and 


BENEVOLENT  ASSOCIATIONS. 


88 


promptitude,  generally  act  with  judgment,  good  effect,  and 
a  saving  of  time,  wiiich  could  not  be  expected  from  men  of 
different  habits.     Tlie  amount  of  business  performed  by  the 
active  merchants  of  this  city  in  benevolent  societies  would 
astonish  any  one,  if  it  were  possible  to  present  a  clear  esti- 
mate of  it.    And  on  the  other  hand,  an  account  of  the  money 
annually  contributed  by  them  for  the  promotion  of  similar 
objects  M'ould  form  an  amount  probably  greater  than  might 
be  easily  believed.     In  all  this  the  purest  motives  have  a 
large  share  of  influence.     It  is  only  necessary  to  know 
individuals  personally  to  perceive  that  many  are  actuated 
not  merely  by  generosity,  but  by  Christian  principle ;  and 
the  prospects  of  good  to  the  city,  the  country,  and  the  world, 
from  the  extension  of  the  spirit  of  benevolence  among  the 
influential  men   of  this  city,  are  very  encouraging.     Ex- 
amples of  the  kind  encourage  imitation,  while  they  reward 
those  who  furnish  them ;  and  every  year  sees  one  individual 
and  another  embarking  in  the  delightful  career  of  disinter- 
es?^d  beneficence,  and  new  exertions  made  by  those  who 
have  become  more  interested  or  encouraged  by  what  they 
have  already  effected. 

It  is  highly  gratifying  also  to  perceive  that  the  education 
and  employments  of  multitudes  of  the  young,  who  are  to 
occupy  important  stations  in  society  hereafter,  are  preparing 
them  for  more  general  and  extensive  labours  for  the  same 
great  objects.     The  present  societies,  created  and  directed 
by  the  fathers,  have  aflbrded  their  sons,  among  other  ad- 
vantages, that  most  important  one  of  useful  and  improving 
employment  for  their  leisure.     In  multitudes  of  instances 
they  have  led  to  the  formation  of  characters  amiable  for 
their  philanthropy,  valuable  for  their  intelligence  and  pu- 
rity, and  promising  by  their  practical  knowledge,  and  the 
excellent  influence  they  already  exercise  in  their  youthful 
sphere.     Thousands  of  them  are  at  this  moment  active  and 
responsible  members  of  societies,  whose  express  objects  are 
the  good  of  others:  and  while  it  is  a  most  agreeable  sight 
to  witness  their  labours  in  literary  associations.  Sabbath- 
schools,  Bible,  Tract,  and  Temperance  societies,  it  is  no 
less  gratifying  to  trace  out  the  influence  which  systematic 


34 


PROMOTION  OF  LEARNINO. 


r 


beneficence  produces  upon  their  habits,  minds,  and  affec- 
tions, and  difl'uses  among  their  family  and  social  circles. 
And  how  important  are  these  iniluences  in  a  population  ol 
nearly  250,000 !  But  a  view  of  what  has  been  done,  and 
what  is  doing  in  this  great  city  by  the  good  and  the  intelli- 
gent, leads  the  mind  to  consider  what  ought  to  be  or  may 
yet  be  effected. 

And  surely,  with  all  the  advantages  offered  by  New- York 
for  the  procuring  and  the  diffusion    of  knowledge,  more 
should  be  undertaken  for  the  benefit  of  public  intelligence. 
This  city  should  be  the  centre  of  learning  for  the  Union. 
No  other  place  in  the  country  can  possibly  enjoy  the  advan- 
tages she  has  to  become  such ;  yet  some  of  our  cities  and 
villages  have  turned  to  so  much  better  account  what  r.ieans 
they  have  possessed,  that  they  have  become  literary  in  a 
tenfold  greater  proportion.     The  public  schools  are  the  best 
large  ones  in  the  country,  excepting  those  of  Boston ;  and 
in  some  departments  are  far  superior  to  them.     Some  of 
the  private  schools  are  good :  but  the  vast  majority,  par- 
ticularly of  the  fashionable  ones,  are  miserably  defective. 
Columbia  College  and  the  University  are  very  respectable 
institutions  for  the  higher  branches  of  learning,  while  the 
Mercantile  Library  Association,  the  Apprentices'  Library, 
the  City  Library,  the  Athentcum,  &,c.,  afford  valuable  means 
of  self-instruction  to  their  various  classes  of  readers.     Un- 
fortunately, the  talents  of  the  learned  are  kept  too  much 
out  of  sight,  and  are  of  course  too  much  underrated  by  the 
public,  who  scarcely  know  that  they  exist.     Attempts  have 
been  made,  from  time  to  time,  to  establish  monthly  maga- 
zines of  different  descriptions,  but  they  have  never  flour- 
ished well ;  for  writers  of  acknowledged  talent  cannot  be 
procured  without  a  reasonable  reward,  and  the  publishers 
are  not  often  disposed  to  hazard  a  large  sum  on  an  uncer- 
tainty.    If  such  men,  however,  were  employed  in  writing 
for  publication,  how  much  better  it  would  be  for  the  country 
than  to  leave  them  in  the  retirement  of  their  families  or  of 
their  professions. 

There  is,  therefore,  yet  much  to  be  done  by  the  inhabitants 
of  New- York  for  the  promotion  of  knowledge  ;  and  to  the 


rising  ge 

Hs  for  t 

benevole 

charge  o 

daily  inci 

ening  by 

But  1 

seek  an  ( 

ill  the  er 

to  the  tn 

boats  wh 

but  of  an 

of  the  Si 

friend  of 

than  any 

might  wis 

swell,  wii 

crops,  th( 

There  arc 

a  view  of 

of  the  fint 

These 

apparently 

seem  to  a 

ises  held 

tuality,  of 

the  anxiel 

with  the  s 

tions,  at  1 

When  yoD 

appear  sti 

boat,  with 

flying  ovei 

point,  and 

You  see  t 

has  been  e 

persons  wl 

scarcely  n 

and  the  lai 


ARNINCI. 

habits,  minds,  and  affec- 
iimily  and  social  circles, 
lences  in  a  population  of 
what  has  been  done,  and 
the  good  and  the  intelli- 
what  ought  to  be  or  may 

iges  offered  by  New- York 
ion  of  knowledge,  more 
;fit  of  public  intelligence, 
f  learning  for  the  Union, 
possibly  enjoy  the  advau- 
,et  some  of  our  cities  and 
etter  account  what  r.ieans 
ive  become  literary  in  a 
public  schools  are  the  best 
ing  those  of  Boston;  and 
lerior  to  them.  Some  of 
ut  the  vast  majority,  par- 
,  are  miserably  defective. 
Brsity  are  very  respectable 
lies  of  learning,  while  the 
the  Apprentices'  Library, 
(fcc,  afford  valuable  means 
I  classes  of  readers.  Un- 
arned  are  kept  too  much 
)o  much  underrated  by  the 
,hey  exist.  Attempts  have 
o  establish  monthly  maga- 
lut  they  have  never  flour- 
(wledged  talent  cannot  be 
•eward,  and  the  publishers 
a  large  sum  on  an  uncer- 
were  employed  in  writing 
it  would  be  for  the  country 
nenl  of  their  families  or  of 

o  be  done  by  the  inhabitants 
of  knowledge  ;  and  to  the 


r 


NEW-YORK  STEAMBOATS. 


35 


rismg  generation,  I  think,  we  may  safely  look  for  it,  as  well 
Hs  for  the  execution  of  still  more  extensive  projects  of 
Ijenevolence.  And  on  this  hope  we  may  rely  without  the 
charge  of  being  visionary  in  any  degree  ;  for  the  means  are 
<laily  increasing,  and  the  hands  are  multiplying  and  strength- 
eiiing  by  which  it  is  to  be  accomplished. 

But  1  have  been  wandering  from  my  subject,  and  can 
seek  an  excuse  for  indulging  in  such  elevating  topics  only 
111  the  ennobling  view  presented  by  the  Bay  of  New- York, 
to  the  traveller  who  crosses  it  in  one  of  the  great  steam- 
boats which  daily  skim  over  its  surface.     Were  the  shores 
but  of  an  elevation  corresponding  with  the  other  features 
.-.   the  scene,  there  would   be  nothing  to  regret  bf  the 
friend  of  the  picturesque.     Staten  Island  approaches  nearer 
than  any  other  part  of  the  surrounding  land  to  what  we 
might  wish  to  see  on  every  side,  and  presents  a  pleasing 
swell,  with  a  variety  of  lines  and  h\ies  in  its  enclosures  and 
crops,  the  village,  and  the  spacious  Quarantine  edifices. 
1  here  are  some  pretty  spots,  with  pleasant  shades,  enjoying 
a  view  of  a  water  scene,  animated  by  the  frequent  passage 
of  the  finest  steamboats. 

These  vessels  have  now  become  improved  and  refined, 
apparently  almost  to  the  grade  of  rational  beings.     They 
seem  to  a  passenger  on  board  half  conscious  of  the  prom- 
ises  held  out  by  the  newspapers  of  their  speed  and  punc- 
tuality,  of  the  hour  when  their  arrival  may  be  expected,  and 
the  anxiety  of  those  who  avail  them;  and  quite  familiar 
with  the  shoals  and  landing-places.     You  feel  their  emo- 
tions,  at  least  their  straining  and  labour  under  your  feet. 
When  you  observe  their  movements  from  a  distance,  they 
appear  still  more  as  if  endued  with  life  and  thought.     A 
boat,  with  a  beautiful  model  and  elegant  proportions,  comes 
flying  over  the  water  almost  without  disturbing  it,  rounds  a 
point,  and  directs  her  rapid  course  towards  a  landing-place. 
You  see  that  her  speed  is  known,  and  that  her  punctuality 
has  been  established  by  long  and  regular  practice:  for  the 
persons  who  have  come  from  a  distance  to  embark  have  yet 
scarcely  reached  the  .hore,  or  are  just  appearing  in  view; 
and  the  landlord  remains  at  his  door  until  she  has  reached 


1 


80 


A  STEAMBOAT  LANDING. 


a  certain  spot,  and  then  leaves  it  just  in  time  to  meet  her 
by  a  leisurely  walk.  There  is  no  hurry,  because  there  is 
no  irregularity  and  no  uncertainty.  She  cuts  the  water,  but 
with  as  little  spray  as  a  knife  makes  in  dividing  a  loaf  of 
bread.  'I'here  is  merely  a  little  rising  of  the  surface  under 
the  bow,  the  wheels  scarcely  splash  the  sides  of  the  boat 
as  they  revolve,  and  the  water  joins  again  under  the  stnm, 
leaving  only  a  smooth  cicatrice  upon  the  surface.  She  ap- 
proaches the  shore  like  a  hound  nosing  out  his  own  kennel ; 
her  wheels  desist,  and  she  floats  on  silently  as  a  feather. 
For  a  moment  she  stops  to  press  against  the  wharf,  and  the 
post  to  which  she  is  daily  fastened :  the  wheels  move  gently 
back,  and  she  is  in  her  place.  A  little  mustering  is  seen 
forward,  about  as  much  as  is  witnessed  at  a  horse-shoeing 
at  a  country  blacksmith's,  and  she  is  again  on  her  way. 
Not  a  loud  word  has  been  spoken ;  yet  in  that  busy  moment, 
Mr.  Smith's  family  have  landed,  with  their  fourteen  trunks ; 
Thomas  Brown  has  saluted  his  wife,  and  bidden  farewell 
till  to-morrow ;  one  has  landed  to  shoot  or  fish  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood, another  has  shipped  his  horse  and  gig  for  his  own 
stable  in  the  city,  or  a  basket  of  beans  for  the  market,  while 
farewell  is  waved  by  friends  and  acquaintances  to  mer- 
chants, fishermen,  and  others,  and  the  correspondence  of 
the  neighbourhood  is  thrown  upon  deck  in  the  little  mail- 
bag.  Away  Hies  the  boat,  followed  with  a  few  nods  and 
gazes,  to  return  again  at  the  fixed  hour,  and  renew  the 
•cene. 


AMBOAT  LANDING. 


leaves  it  just  in  time  to  meet  her 
Phere  is  no  hurry,  because  there  is 
ncertainty.  She  cuts  the  water,  but 
I  knife  makes  in  dividing  a  loaf  of 
y  a  little  rising  of  the  surface  under 
ircely  splash  the  sides  of  the  boat 
I  water  joins  again  under  the  stem, 
icatrice  upon  the  surface.  She  ap- 
a  hound  nosing  out  his  own  kennel ; 
she  floats  on  silently  as  a  feather. 
I  to  press  against  the  wharf,  and  the 
ly  fastened :  the  wheels  move  gently 
place.  A  little  mustering  is  seen 
I  as  is  witnessed  at  a  horse-shoeing 
I's,  and  she  is  again  on  her  way. 
in  spoken ;  yet  in  that  busy  moment, 
I  landed,  with  their  fourteen  trunks ; 
uted  his  wife,  and  bidden  farewell 
landed  to  shoot  or  iiah  in  the  neigh- 
liipped  his  horse  and  gig  for  his  own 
lasket  of  beans  for  the  market,  while 
friends  and  acquaintances  to  mer- 
others,  and  the  correspondence  of 
•own  upon  deck  in  the  little  mail- 
)at,  followed  with  a  few  nods  and 
at  the  fixed  hour,  and  renew  the 


CHAPTER  VI. 

The  Sea-shore— Long  Branrh— Bathing—Scenery— Shipwrecks- 
Forms  of  Danger  and  Muilca  of  Escape. 

Long  Branch  is  a  favourite  resort  to  the  citizens  of 
New- York,  and  still  more  so  to  those  of  Philadelphia, 
although  they  have  to  perform  a  long  monotonous  ride,  over 
a  sandy  path,  across  a  pine  plain  to  reach  it,  while  the  route 
from  New- York  is  by  steam,  excepting  four  of  the  last 
miles.  A  description  of  the  place  may  be  given  in  a  few 
words;  yet  nothing  short  of  a  visit  to  it,  and  a  long 
familiarity  with  its  aspect  in  different  states  of  weather, 
will  give  any  person  an  adequate  idea  of  its  attractions. 

I  had  visited  many  points  of  our  more  northern  sea-coast 
before  I  saw  Long  Branch,  but  had  found  none  of  them  re- 
sembling it  in  all  its  striking  characteristics.    Here  a  smooth 
and  handsome  plain  extends  to  the  very  borders  of  the  sea. 
You  have  no  indication  of  your  approach  to  it  in  the  bleak 
hills,  beds  of  sand,  masses  of  rock,  or  clusters  of  fishing, 
huts,  which  in  other  places  generally  prepare  you  for  what 
you  are  to  behold.     On  the  contrary,  when  you  look  out 
from  the  hard-jolting  Jersey  wagon  in  which  you  are  trans- 
ported across  the  state,  or  from  the  steamboat-landing  at 
Red  Bank,  you  see  retired  farms  or  small  villages,  or  more 
frequently  a  smooth  road  overshadowed   by  forest-trees, 
such  as  you  would  suppose  might  extend  a  hundred  miles 
in  any  direction.     You  are  surprised,  therefore,  when,  as 
the  horses  turn  in  front  of  the  hotel,  you  find  the  grassy 
plain  suddenly  terminating,  and  at  the  depth  of  forty  feet 
beneath,  observe  the  roar  and  tumult  of  the  never-ceasing 
waves  rolling  from  the  very  horizon. 

Little  arbours  have  been  erected  on  the  verge  of  (he 
sandy  precipice,  furnished  with  seats,  and  covered  with 


88 


LONO  BRANCH. 


green  boughs,  where  you  may  at  any  hour  of  a  clear  day 
enjoy  an  agreeable  shade,  and  the  sight  of  a  white  beach 
extending  several  miles  to  the  right  and  left,  contmually 
lashed  by  the  billows  of  the  ocean.  At  night  the  scene  is 
often  still  finer  than  by  day;  for  then,  the  eyes  being  less 
called  into  requisition  amid  the  general  obscurity,  the  ear 
is  more  sensible  to  the  sounds  which  fall  upon  it,  and  the 
feelings  are  in  a  singular  manner  affected  by  the  roar,  dash- 
ing, and  concussions  of  near  and  distant  waves.  Some  of 
these  are  dimly  seen,  and  others  only  heard  as  they  strike 
upon  some  more  remote  part  of  the  shore. 

The  sandy  precipice  appears  to  be  everywhere  slowly 
crumbling  and  wearing  away.     Why  it  is  able  to  resist  at 
all  the  unintermitted  violence  of  the  immense  power  which 
is  continually  directed  against  it,  is  at  first  not  easily  ex- 
plained.    At  this  season  of  the  year  there  is  a  beautiful 
bank  of  white  sand  formed  for  its  protection,  a  little  in  ad- 
vance, which  extends  with  the  greatest  uniformity  as  far  as 
the  eye  can  reach,  and  suffers  not  a  drop  of  the  water  to 
pass  beyond  it,  except  when  the  spray  is  driven  much  higher 
than  usual  during  a  violent  easterly  storm.     In  the  warmer 
seasons,  when  you  descend  from  the  precipice,  therefore, 
you  find  yourself  for  a  moment  shut  out  from  the  view  of 
the  ocean,  by  the  intervention  of  the  summit  of  this  bank, 
which  may  be  about  twenty-five  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
water ;  and  after  surmounting  that,  yow  tread  the  hard  beach, 
which  descends  with  a  smooth  and  gentle  slope,  and  is 
swept  every  few  seconds  by  another  and  another  wave  that 
here  spends  tlie  force  it  has  exerted,  perhaps,  over  hundreds 
of  miles  of  water  without  intermission.     Nature  never  acts 
without  doing  something  to  gratify  the  taste  of  man,  either 
for  the  beautiful  or  the  sublime,  and  very  often  consults  it 
in  both.     While  the  thundering  roar  of  the  sea  was  every 
moment  striking  upon  my  ears,  and  the  successive  deluges 
that  flooded  the  lower  part  of  the  beach  seemed  sufficient 
to  tear  rocks  in  pieces,  it  was  pleasing  to  see  how  effectu- 
ally its  violence  was  tamed,  and  its  power  harmlessly  spent, 
by  the  ascent  of  the  beach.     By  directing  its  course  up  an 
inclmed  plane,  ite  impulse  was  gradually  lost,  and  the  water 


r 


spon 
fallh 
poin 
wavi 
smoc 
gathi 
stra} 
buts 
wav( 
encn 
Oi 
ness 
have 
brouj 
may 
fishe 
Wei 
time! 
Bran 
love 
go  ho 
may 
and  t 

to  til( 
selve 
the  e 
and  i 
favou 
able  : 
Or 
way  I 
not  ( 
tion ; 
negle 
scend 
delug 
engul 
amou 
is  cor 


NCH. 


BATHING  ON  THE  COAST. 


39 


it  any  hour  of  a  clear  day 
he  siglit  of  a  white  beach 

right  and  left,  continually 
:ean.  At  night  the  scene  is 
r  then,  the  eyes  being  less 

general  obscurity,  the  ear 
which  fall  upon  it,  and  the 
sr  affected  by  the  roar,  dash- 
nd  distant  waves.  Some  of 
rs  only  heard  as  they  strike 
'  the  shore. 
3  to  be  everywhere  slowly 

Why  it  is  able  to  resist  at 
f  the  immense  power  which 
it,  is  at  first  not  easily  ex- 
le  year  there  is  a  beautiful 
•  its  protection,  a  little  in  ad- 
greatest  uniformity  as  far  as 

not  a  drop  of  the  water  to 
e  spray  is  driven  much  higher 
iterly  storm.  In  the  warmer 
om  the  precipice,  therefore, 
mt  shut  out  from  the  view  of 
of  the  summit  of  this  bank, 
e  feet  above  the  level  of  the 
hat,  yoM  tread  the  hard  beach, 
ith  and  gentle  slope,  and  is 
[lother  and  another  wave  that 
ertcd,  perhaps,  over  hundreds 
•mission.  Nature  never  acts 
atify  the  taste  of  man,  either 
le,  and  very  often  consults  it 
g  roar  of  the  sea  was  every 
s,  and  the  successive  deluges 

the  beach  seemed  sufficient 
5  pleasing  to  see  how  effectu- 
al its  power  harmlessly  spent. 
By  directing  its  course  up  an 
1  gradually  lost,  and  the  water 


spontaneously  sunk  back,  like  a  feeble  child  after  an  effort, 
falling  again  into  the  arms  of  hs  mother.  The  highest 
point  gained  by  the  strongest  waves  was  marked  by  a 
waving  line  of  sea-weeds,  gracefully  festooned  on  the 
smooth  sand  for  miles  in  length.  Children,  who  delight  to 
gather  shells  from  the  brim  of  old  ocean's  bowl,  may  safely 
stray  down  to  this  line,  and  do  often  venture  far  below  it ; 
but  sometimes  our  whole  party  was  seen  flying  before  a  giant 
wave,  which  hurried  at  our  heels,  as  if  to  terrify  us  for 
encroaching  too  far  on  the  empire  of  the  sea. 

One  great  pleasure  in  visiting  a  scene  like  this,  is  to  wit- 
ness the  natural  influence  which  the  aspects  of  the  ocean 
have  upon  the  human  mind.  The  gay  and  young,  who  are 
brought  in  crowds  by  wealthy  parents  from  the  capitals, 
may  stand  side  by  side  with  the  solitary  invalid,  or  the 
fisherman's  son,  and  all  participate  in  the  same  feelings. 
We  may  hear  of  the  good  beds,  the  fine  dinners,  or  some- 
times of  the  choice  wine  furnished  to  visiters  at  Long 
Branch ;  but  I  am  happy  to  believe  that  most  of  those  who 
love  the  place  love  it  for  its  natural,  its  real  beauties,  and 
go  home  better  than  they  came.  Certain  it  is,  that  friendships 
may  be  here  cultivated  which  will  be  valuable  elsewhere, 
and  that  impressions  worth  possessing  may  be  communicated 
to  tlie  young  and  the  old.  The  scenes  which  present  them- 
selves to  the  opening  eye,  and  the  sounds  which  strike  upon 
the  ear,  tend  to  prepare  the  feelings  for  useful  instructions ; 
and  if  the  parent  seeks  opportunities  to  convey  them,  a  more 
favourable  place  could  hardly  be  found  among  our  fashion- 
able resorts. 

On  this  subject  I  may,  perhaps,  say  something  in  the 
way  of  brief  hints  hereafter.  For  myself,  unhappily,  I  did 
not  come  well  provided  with  the  means  of  self-instruc- 
tion ;  but  I  cannot  here  stop  to  lament  my  ignorance  or 
neglect,  for  I  had  soon  other  things  to  think  of.  I  had  de- 
scended to  the  beach  with  a  company  of  bathers,  and  was 
deluged  by  a  roaring  wave  that  suddenly  rolled  up  and 
engulfed  us  all.  Then  it  was  that  I  first  fully  realized  the 
amount  of  water-power  (as  the  too  technical  term  is)  which 
is  constantly  wasted  upon  the  coast,  and  the  cause  of  the 


r 


40 


BATHING  ON  THE  COAST. 


sand-banks  which  mark  the  margin  of  the  ocean  in  all 
climates  and  regions.  I  was  suddenly  lifted  up,  rolled  this 
way  and  that,  and  then  drawn  downwards  by  a  foree  I  had 
neither  time,  energy,  nor  skill  enough  to  oppose,  and  felt  for 
a  moment  as  if  I  had  owed  my  life  to  a  neighbour  who  held 
me  up  by  my  bathing-robe.  As  the  returning  flood  rushed 
by  me,  bushels  of  pebbles  rolled  rapidly  over  my  naked  feet 
and  against  my  ancles,  as  if  resolved  to  deprive  me  of  my 
only  support.  Instead  of  retreating  to  dry  ground,  as  I 
wished  to  do,  my  companions  hurried  much  farther  down, 
apparently  drawing  me  with  them,  to  meet  another  wave, 
which  came  foaming  on  more  violently  than  its  predecessor ; 
and,  before  I  had  recovered  from  the  stupifying  cU'ect  of  the 
former,  I  felt  myself  sealed  np  tighter  and  longer  than  be- 
fore :  eyes,  ears,  nose,  mouth,  breath,  and  all.  How  little 
like  a  man  does  a  man  feel  in  such  circumstances  !  Plunged 
in  an  element  foreign  to  his  nature,  the  use  of  all  his  senses 
entirely  suspended,  unless  the  growling  in  the  ears  is  to  be 
called  hearing,  and  the  sensation  of  cold  and  wetness  is 
feeling — the  legs  useless,  because  the  feet  are  lifted  above 
terra  firma,  or  rather  the  sand  and  water  moving  below 
you !  This  is  one  of  the  cases  in  which  a  native  American 
citizen  may  be  suddenly  disfranchised.  What  benefit  did  I 
derive  at  that  time  from  my  birth-right  ?  Of  what  use  was 
it  to  me  that  there  were  written  laws,  courts,  jurors,  lawyers, 
and  judges,  that  I  might  have  claimed  the  rights  of  a  citizen 
in  any  state  of  the  Union,  when  here,  not  twenty  feet  from 
high-water  mark,  I  might  be  taken  feloniously,  with  malice 
aforethought,  and  thrown  into  the  jaws  of  such  a  beast  of  a 
billow,  exposed  to  deai".:,  or  at  least  put  into  great  consterna- 
tion ?  Is  there  no  statute  for  such  case  made  and  provided  1 
Is  there  no  writ  that  will  issue  against  the  perpetrators  of 
such  an  enormity?  Who  is  safe?  Who  can  boast  of  the 
privilege  of  existing  in  this  republic,  while  the  very  judge 
on  the  bench,  or  just  off  it,  if  he  happens  to  step  into  the 
water  at  liong  Branch,  may  be  thus  suddenly  deprived  of 
every  right  dear  to  nature  ? 

All  this,  and  more,  perhaps,  passed  through  my  mind  while 
I  remained  submerged ;  but  I  can  give  no  adequate  idea  of 


the 

my 

and 

recc 

unci 

rude 

sisti 

The 

me, 

able 

peril 

itsel 

my  1 

into 

B; 

signi 

thro\ 

mate 

consi 

proa( 

force 

eye  t 

ties  ( 

pose. 

ceivii 

fore  i 

a  shi] 

ever, 

until 

being 

sunk 

Evi 

this  c( 

been  1 

Dish  t 

remim 

dreadi 

nually 

here, ! 


[  THE  COAST. 

margin  of  the  ocean  in  all 
1  suddenly  lifted  up,  rolled  this 
fi  downwards  by  a  force  I  had 

enough  to  oppose,  and  felt  for 
ly  life  to  a  neighbour  who  held 

As  the  returning  Hood  rushed 
lied  rapidly  over  my  naked  feet 
resolved  to  deprive  me  of  my 
^treating  to  dry  ground,  as  I 
i  hurried  much  farther  down, 

them,  to  meet  another  wave, 

violently  than  its  predecessor ; 
om  the  stupifying  cHect  of  the 
up  tighter  and  longer  than  be- 
lt breath,  and  all.  How  little 
such  circumstances !  I'lunged 
lature,  the  use  of  all  his  senses 
e  growling  in  the  ears  is  to  be 
iation  of  cold  and  wetness  is 
;ause  the  feet  are  lifted  above 
land  and  water  moving  below 
les  in  which  a  native  American 
ranchised.  What  benefit  did  I 
lirth-right?  Of  what  use  was 
n  laws,  courts,  jurors,  lawyers, 
)  claimed  the  rights  of  a  citizen 
hen  here,  not  twenty  feet  from 

taken  feloniously,  with  malice 
I  the  jaws  of  such  a  beast  of  a 
t  least  put  into  great  consterna- 
such  case  made  and  provided  ? 
lie  against  the  perpetrators  of 

safe  ?     Who  can  boast  of  the 

republic,  while  the  very  judge 
f  he  happens  to  step  into  the 
r  be  thus  suddenly  deprived  of 

,  passed  through  my  mind  while 
[  can  give  no  adequate  idea  of 


[ 


SHIPWRECKS. 


41 


the  state  of  desperation  in  which  I  remained,  until  I  found 

my  head  above  water,  and  felt  at  liberty  to  breathe,  to  look, 

and  to  speak.    What  I  was  prepared  to  say  I  need  not  here 

record,  for  it  was  never  uttered.     The  power  which  had  so 

unceremoniously  drawn  me  into  the  water  was  not  that  of  a 

rude  companion,  as  I  might  have  stipposed,  but  the  irre- 

sistible  torrent  which  had  also  borne  away  my  old  friends. 

Ihese  now  reappeared  with  me,  and  were  standing  beside 

me,  overwhelmed  with  a  torrent  of  laughter,  and  quite  un- 

able  to  answer  my  angry  interrogatories.     My  vexation, 

perhaps,  still  more  excited  their  mirth,  which  soon  showed 

Itself  in  a  manner  that  I  could  not  resist ;  and  after  forgetting 

my  late  embarrassment,  I  consented  to  descend  once  more 

into  the  bnne,  and  had  on  the  whole  a  delightful  bath. 

By  a  remarkable  provision  of  nature,  which  seems  de- 
signed for  benevolent  purposes  as  well  as  that  which  has 
thrown  up  the  sandbeach,  a  partial  barricade  of  the  same 
material  is  generally  found  heaped  up  by  the  waves  at  a 
considerable  distance  from  the  shore,  over  which  the  ap- 
proaching  billows  first  turn  m  foam,  and  begin  to  lose  their 
lorce.     Its  position  is  marked  by  a  white  line,  which  the 
eye  can  trace  for  miles  up  and  down,  parallel  to  the  sinuom- 
ties  of  the  shore,  and  everywhere  serving  the  same  pur- 
pose.     Such  bars  have  sometimes  proved  of  use,  by  re- 
ceiving vessels  when  driving  on  towards  a  rocky  shore  be- 
lore  an  irresistible  storm;  and  many  a  published  account  of 
a  shipwreck  makes  mention  of  them.     In  many  cases,  how- 
ever, vessels  have  only  remained  upon  these  outer  bars 
until  so  strained  as  to  leak  dangerously;  and  then,  after 
being  beaten  over  them  by  the  force  of  repeated  waves,  have 
sunk  betore  reaching  the  shore. 

Every  thing  relating  to  shipwrecks  is  of  interest  along 
this  coast,  where  multitudes  of  vessels  of  different  sizes  have 
been  lost,  and  where  fragments  of  old  decks,  spars,  &c.  fur- 
msh  the  scattermg  farm-houses  with  much  of  their  fuel,  and 
remind  the  visiter,  during  his  strolls  on  the  beach,  of  the 
dreadful  disasters  and  sufferings  of  which  it  is  almost  an- 
nually  the  scene.  As  being  wrecked  is  too  often  inevitable 
here,  how  to  be  wrecked  most  sciemifically  becomes  a  ques- 


49 


BIIlPAVRECKi. 


■-1 


tion  of  importance.     Strungc  as  it  may  sound,  there  is  siicli 
a  thing  as  running  a  ship  on  sliorn  eleganily,  and  meriting 
the  command  of  a  larger  vessel  by  loning  a  smaller  one  in 
the  right  manner.     Suppose,  for  instance,  that  one  of  the 
ships  frecpienlly  to  be  seen  here  on  llic  horizon,  instead  ol 
shniming  this  shore  as  they  arc  fain  to  do,  siu)uld  be  blown 
by  an  irrcsislibie  wind  towards  it,  until  it  became   evident 
that  it  must  strike.     It  is  now  left  to  the  master  to  deter- 
mine whether  she  shall  lie  with  her  side  or  her  stern  to  the 
waves  after  she  has  ceased  to  float.     If  that  the  Hat  stern 
should  receive  their  full  force,  like  St.  Paul's  ship  at  Melita, 
the  vessel  could  not  long  resist  the  shocks,  which  are  violent 
almost  beyond  calculation.     If  she  should  present  her  side 
in  an  inclined  position,  the  waves  would  waste  a  part  of  their 
force  upon  it  as  they  do  upon  the  beach ;  but  then  the  con- 
dition of  the  crew  would  be  forlorn,  as  the  sea  must  make 
what  is  called  a  fair  breach  over  her.     But  there  is  a  possi- 
bility,  in  some  cases,  by  the  exercise  of  much  skill,  of  lay- 
ing a  ship  ashore  in  a  still  more  favourable  position,  viz.  so 
that  the  waves  shall  strike  her  bows  and  cui  iheiiiselves  in 
two.    If  the  captain  and  his  men  retain  their  self-possession 
to  the  last  moment,  the  vessel  may  possibly  be  made  to 
wear  just  before  she  strikes,  and  touch  the  ground  stern  first. 
If  after  this  she  is  not  turned  too  far  by  the  wind  or  the  sea, 
her  situation  is  tolerably  comfortable  for  a  desperate  one. 
But  then  other  dangers  are  to  be  apprehended.     A  ship 
seldom  is  materially  injured  by  the  first  contact  with  the 
ground :  but  terrible  leaks  are  often  produced  afterward  by 
her  being  repeatedly  lifted  up  by  the  waves  and  dropped 
again  upon  the  hard  bottom  by  their  sudden  reth-ing.     If, 
after  this,  as  has  been  already  remarked,  she  is  carried  into 
deep  water,  unless  the  pumps  can  keep  her  hold  from  fill- 
ing too  fast,  she  must  sink,  and  probably  every  person  on 
board,  as  well  as  the  cargo,  will  go  down  with  her. 

In  several  instances,  which  were  mentioned  to  me  by 
some  of  the  older  inhabitants  of  this  dangerous  coast,  the 
lops  of  masts  peeping  out  of  the  water  between  the  shoal 
and  the  beach,  have  given  the  first  intimation  of  melancholy 
midnight-wrecks.     It  is  comparatively  more  common,  I  be- 


'lievf 
fine 
and 
cith( 
who 
1) 
safe 
or  I 
neni 
fme 

m\ 

stor 
soni 
the 
brei 
by 

dan 

beg 

sel 

boa 

stili 

furl 

Ian 

tim 

imi 

am 

the 

fall 

po 

wr 

the 

th< 

fa( 

mi 

an 

lei 

su 


PWRECKt. 

ge  as  it  may  sound,  thorc  is  sucli 
Dii  slioro  elr'iranily,  and  meriting 
vessel  by  loninir  a  smiilicr  one  in 
ise,  for  instimce,  that  one  of  tlie 
I  here  on  llic  horizon,  inslpiid  of 
y  arc  fain  to  do,  siiould  he  blown' 
vards  it,  until  it  heeamc  evident 
now  left  to  the  master  to  dctor- 
!  with  her  side  or  her  stern  to  the 
!(1  to  float.     If  that  the  Hat  stern 
iree,  like  St.  Paul's  ship  at  Melita, 
■esist  the  shocks,  which  are  violent 
.     If  she  should  present  her  side 
waves  would  waste  a  part  of  their 
pon  the  beach  ;  but  then  the  con- 
be  forlorn,  as  the  sea  must  make 
:h  over  her.     But  there  is  a  possi- 
he  exercise  of  much  skill,  of  lay- 
l  more  favourable  position,  viz.  so 
16  her  bows  anil  cul  theiiiselvvs  in 
lis  men  retain  their  self-possession 
vessel  may  possibly  be  made  to 
!s,  and  touch  the  ground  stern  first, 
ned  too  far  by  the  wind  or  the  sea, 
comfortable  for  a  desperate  one. 
are  to  be  apprehended.     A  ship 
red  by  the  first  contact  with  the 
s  are  often  produced  afterward  by 
ed  up  by  the  waves  and  dropped 
ttom  by  their  sudden  retiring.     If, 
•eady  remarked,  she  is  carried  into 
umps  can  keep  her  hold  from  fill- 
nk,  and  probably  every  person  on 
go,  will  go  down  with  her. 
which  were  mentioned  to  me  by 
tants  of  this  dangerous  coast,  the 
>ut  of  the  water  between  the  shoal 
I  the  first  intimation  of  melancholy 
comparatively  more  common,  I  be- 


BMII'WRF.CKS. 


43 


■lievp,  on  approaching  the  shore  in  the  morning,  to  see  some 
fine  vessel  lixcd  iipoir  ilic  shoal,  with  her  spars  partly  tfone, 
and  partly  loaded  with  signals  of  distress,  and  her  decks 
cither  crowded  with  anxious  sullerrrs,  or  swept  of  those 
who  might  have  tt)ld  of  the  events  of  the  night. 

Hut  i\w  danger  ai)0vc  mentioned  is  sometimes  pa«Med  in 
safety.  Son\e  vessels  ant  borne  over  the  shoal  with  greater 
or  less  injury,  and  landed,  not  gently,  perhaps,  but  perma- 
nently, up()ii  the  beach,  which  now  presents  to  our  eyes  so 
line  a  sight,  so  safe  and  beautiful  a  walk.  Hut  ah  !  how 
(lifl'erent  a  spot  to  them,  when  the  fury  of  an  ciiuinoctial 
storm  is  raging,  which  every  autumn  drives  back  the  beach 
some  sixty  or  eighty  feet,  so  that  the  slo|)c  commences  at 
the  sandy  elilV  itself,  over  which  the  billows  attempt  to 
break,  and  which  is  often  rendered  almost  unapproachable 
by  the  spray. 

When  a  vessel  has  once  been  thrown  upon  this  beach,  the 
danger   of  sinking  is   past,    and   the   ocean   immediately 
begins  to  employ  itself  actively  for  the  security  of  the  ves- 
sel and  cargo,  as  well  as  for  the  protection  of  those  on 
board  against  further  damage.     The  force  of  the  wind,  and 
still  more  that  of  successive  waves,  is  employed  to  push  it 
further  and  further  up  the  acclivity,  and  nearer  to  the  dry 
land  ;  and  after  the  hull  has  remained  stationary  for  a  short 
time,  a  stronger  wave  rolls  in,  which  rises  higher  than  its 
immediate  predecessors,  holds  it  an  instant  afloat  again, 
and  thrusts  it  unceremoniously  a  little  further  up  the  steep ; 
then  retiring,  leaves  it,  perhaps,  in  the  spot  where  it  is  to 
fall  piece-meal,  and  where  its  keel  is  to  decay.     Besides  the 
power  of  the  waves  rolling  in  from  the  ocean,  the  ship- 
wrecked vessel  and  her  unfortunate  crew  find  benefit  from 
their  retirement :  for  as  each  wave  flows  back  again  down 
the  descending  beach,  it  bears  rapidly  over  its  smooth  sur- 
face cart-loads  of  the  loose  pebbles  and  sand  which  so 
much  incommode  the  inexperienced  bather.    Their  quantity, 
and  the  size  of  the  beach-stones,  are  increased  by  the  vio- 
lence of  the  waves  in  a  gale,  and  the  process  of  grinding 
gravel  into  sand  is  vastly  facilitated.     This  mass  of  moving 
substances  is  ready  to  accumulate  rapidly  against  every 


J 


44 


SHIPWRECK!. 


obstacle  that  is  fixed  sumciciiily  to  resist  it  in  its  descent; 
and  no  sooner  is  a  vessel  left  to  rest  upon  tlic  bciicl.,  than  a 
bank  begins  to  be  lornied  of  sand  and  stones  deposited  there 
by  the  retiring  waves.  A  causey  thus  self-constructed  from 
the  wreck  to  the  shore  ban  in  some  instances  ollered  the 
crew  the  earliest  means  of  escape ;  and  in  particular  cir- 
cumslances  may  have  proved  their  only  safety.  If  a  vessel 
should  thus  be  thrown  upon  a  beach  when  the  tide  is  near 
its  ebb,  and  the  bank  be  formed  in  time  to  allow  the  crew 
opportunity  to  escape  over  it  to  the  land  at  low  water,  they 
'  would  be  saved  the  hazards  attending  another  llood-tide,  the 
floating  of  the  ship  agaui,  with  perhaps  a  change  of  wind 
that  might  drive  it  into  deep  water  and  sink  it:  to  say 
nothing  of  a  prolonged  exposure  to  wet,  cold,  fear,  fatigue, 

and  hunger. 

The  ship  which  has  been  thrown  upon  such  a  beach  as 
this,  nearly  at  the  height  of  the  tide,  and  for  which  the  sea 
is  rapidly  constructing  an  eml)ankmenl  to  the  shore,  is  per- 
haps in  tlie  most  favourable  and  liopeful  condition  in  which 
a  wreck  can  be  situated.     Yet  how  replete  with  inconve- 
niences, with  distresses  and  dangers,  is  such  a  situation  to 
those  on  board !     The  disaster  may  have  occurred  within  a 
brief  hour  of  the  time  when  the  crew  had  indulged  sanguine 
hopes  of  escape  from  serious  injury  by  the  storm,  or  when, 
after  prolonged  labours,  sufferings,  and  apprehensions,  they 
have  neither  physical  nor  mental  energy  to  endure  their 
present  trials,  or  to  avail  themselves  of  any  favourable  cir- 
cumstances in  their  situation.     They  are  probably  ignorant 
of  the  coast  on  which  they  are  thrown,  and  involved  in  the 
obscurity  of  an  atmosphere   troubled  with  tempests,  sur- 
charged with  mist,  rain,  or  flying  spray,  and  perhaps  dark- 
ened by  night.     Thus  the  mariner  is  often  kept  in  anxious 
suspense,  and  apprehends  the  utmost  danger  even  when  his 
escape  is  almost  secured.     Sometimes,  acting  under   ill- 
founded  apprehensions  of  their  prospects,  lives  have  been 
unnecessarily  exposed   and   sacrificed;   boats   have   been 
prematurely  launched  and  swamped  on  spots  which  in  a 
short  time  might  have  been  passed  on  foot  dry-shod.     But 
how  can  men  be  expected  always  to  form  and  act  upon  cor- 


rect 0| 

Who 

our  c( 

ssfely 

and    I 

miles 

Sand} 

few  c 

swam 

gcner 

coiisp 

to  oiii 

Brant 

said  t 

part  c 

arabh 

and  h 

salted 

agree 

the  fa 

to  the 

H<i 

and  ii 

being 

and  s 

vicini 

mean 

cast ' 

esca[ 

our  c 

to  a  I 

whicl 

land, 

appa 

remu 

impo 

mon( 

and  I 

ble,  I 


WRECKIt 

lUly  to  resist  it  in  its  (leacent ; 
't  to  rest  upon  tlic  bciicli,  than  a 
band  and  slonus  deposited  there 
uisey  ti»u8  self-coustrucled  from 

in  some  instances  ofl'ered  the 
esi'iipe;  and  in  particular  cir- 
d  their  only  safety.     If  a  vessel 

a  beach  when  the  tide  is  near 
)rnicd  in  time  to  allow  the  wew 
t  to  the  land  at  low  water,  they 
attending  another  flood-tide,  the 
with  perhaps  a  change  of  wind 
icp  water  and  sink  it:  to  say 
osure  to  wet,  cold,  fear,  fatigue, 


n  thrown  upon  such  a  beach  as 
the  tide,  and  for  which  the  sea 
ml)ankmenl  to  the  shore,  is  per- 
and  liopeful  condition  in  which 
Yet  how  replete  with  inconve- 
l  dangers,  is  such  a  situation  to 
ster  may  have  occurred  within  a 
I  the  crew  had  indulged  sanguine 
js  injury  by  the  storm,  or  when, 
Ferings,  and  apprehensions,  they 
mental  energy  to  endure  their 
lemselves  of  any  favourable  cir- 
m.     They  are  probably  ignorant 
are  thrown,  and  involved  in  the 
re   troubled  with  tempests,  sur- 
flying  spray,  and  perhaps  dark- 
mariner  is  often  kept  in  anxious 
the  utmost  danger  even  when  his 
Sometimes,  acting  under   ill- 
their  prospects,  lives  have  been 
,d   sacrificed;   boats   have   been 
,  swamped  on  spots  which  in  a 
n  passed  on  foot  dry-shod.     But 
always  to  form  and  act  upon  cor- 


MEANS  or  RKSCl'C.  W 

rert  opinioni,  in  circumstances  so  tryinflf  and  so  doubtful  ? 
Who  can  distinj^uish  between  a  thousand  dilFerent  parts  of 
our  coast,  even  in  the  clearest  weather,  and  when  SHiling 
SHfely  and  prosperously  by,  even  with  lime  to  reflect, 
and  to  consult  books  and  charts  I  The  hundreds  of 
miles  whicii  intervene  along  the  Atlantic  border  from  near 
Sandy  Hook  to  the  Ca|)e  of  Florida,  present,  with  but 
few  exceptions,  one  unilortn  appearance :  low  lands  and 
swamps  faced  with  beaches,  over  which  a  forest  ulune  u 
generally  distinguishable,  with  no  prominent  mountains  or 
conspicuous  capes  to  give  bearings,  and  few  secure  harbours 
to  ofler  a  refuge.  This  singular  part  of  the  coast,  at  Long 
Branch  and  its  vicinity,  extending  for  about  six  miles,  is 
said  to  be  dislinguislied  by  one  peculiarity,  from  every  other 
part  of  the  seaboard  of  the  United  Stales.  Here  alone  the 
arable  land  extends  to  the  very  verge  of  Neptune's  domains, 
and  here  are  seen  the  only  corn-fields  whose  outer  rows  are 
salted  by  the  spray  of  the  ocean.  Hut  this  trail,  however 
agreeable  and  striking  to  the  land  traveller,  and  valuable  to 
the  farmer  who  reaps  the  harvests,  aflbrds  liltle  advantage 
to  the  navigator  in  enabling  him  to  ascertain  his  position. 

How  important  are  some  of  the  devices  which  the  humane 
and  ingenious  have  invented  for  the  rescue  of  their  fellow- 
beings  exposed  to  death  by  shipwreck  !  "  I  have  both  talked 
and  written  to  men  of  influence,"  said  a  plain  farmer  of  this 
vicinity  to  me,  "  on  the  importance  of  supplying  us  with  the 
means  of  saving  men  from  death,  who  are  every  season 
cast  within  our  view,  in  the  midst  of  perils  which  they  might 
escape  with  our  aid,  if  we  had  a  simple  apparatus  placed  at 
our  command,  by  which  a  rope  might  be  thrown  from  a  gun 
to  a  ship  on  shore."  Repeated  instances  he  referred  to,  in 
which  crews  had  been  lost  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
land,  in  most,  if  not  all  of  which,  he  fell  confident,  such  an 
apparatus  might  have  been  cflectual.  The  result  of  his 
remarks  was  to  convince  me,  that  the  subject  is  of  sufficient 
importance  to  justify  the  appropriation  of  a  liberal  sum  of 
money  by  our  government,  to  inquire  for  facta  and  opinions, 
and  to  make  experiments.  If  it  should  be  judged  practica- 
ble, after  this,  another  appropriation  should  be  made  to  carry 

5 


I 


46 


NEW-YORK. 


r 


a  good  plan  into  effect.  Whatever  thf^  apparatus  might  be, 
whether  life-boats  of  the  best  construction,  or  guns,  or  mor- 
tars for  throwing  ropes,  it  should  be  mounted  on  carriages, 
supplied  with  harness,  and  placed  in  the  charge  of  some 
humane  and  responsible  individual,  or  at  the  direction  of  the 
town-authorities.  From  the  interest  felt  by  the  respectable 
inhabitants  of  this  part  of  the  coast,  in  the  safety  of  men, 
and  sometimes  females,  thus  exposed  to  desperate  hazards 
and  sufferings  under  their  eyes,  I  am  persuaded  that  the 
lAost  laudable  exertions  would  ever  be  made  for  their  safety. 
For  my  own  part,  if  I  were  to  be  shipwrecked,  I  would 
willingly  trust  myself  to  the  care  of  the  hardy  and  humane 
individuals  whom  I  have  known  in  this  vicinity.  Those 
alone  who  have  had  experience  in  the  delicate  task  of  con- 
ducting a  common  boat  through  the  surf  and  over  the 
breakers,  can  now  be  trusted  to  transport  men  to  the  land, 
even  when  the  sea  is  but  in  a  moderate  state  of  agitation ; 
but  if  life-boats  were  at  hand,  other  arms  might  be  employed 
in  an  emergency,  beside  those  of  the  most  skilful  fisher- 
men. 


CHAPTER  VII. 

New-York— Books— The  Apparatus  of  Literature— Conversation! 
with  Booksellers  on  Public  Taste,  <&c.— A  Friend  returned  from  a 
Tour  to  Europe— Foreign  Feelings  and  Ignorance  respecting  Ame- 
rica—Varying aspects  of  the  Streets  of  the  Metropolis  —Impressions 
from  observing  them. 

It  is  strange  to  see  how  much  better  the  public  taste  is 
often  understood  by  booksellers  than  authors;  and  with 
what  certainty  they  can  sometimes  foretel  the  fate  of  a  book 
after  hearing  only  a  brief  description  of  it,  or  after  glancing 
at  the  table  of  contents  or  the  title-page,  than  the  man 
who  studied  and  laboured  over  the  pages  for  months  or 
years,  and  lay  awake  whole  nights  to  cut  and  piece  it  in 
conformity  with  the  state  of  society.     This  fact,  which  no 


iroRK. 


r 


itever  thu  apparatus  might  be, 
construction,  or  guns,  or  mor- 
ouUl  be  mounted  on  carriages, 
(laced  in  the  charge  of  some 
idual,  or  at  the  direction  of  the  I 
interest  felt  by  the  respectable  I 
le  coast,  in  the  safety  of  men,  I 
exposed  to  desperate  hazards 
yea,  I  am  persuaded  that  the 
1  ever  be  made  for  their  safety. 

to  be  shipwrecked,  I  would 
care  of  the  hardy  and  humane 
own  in  this  vicinity.  Those 
ce  in  the  delicate  task  of  cor- 
•ough  the  surf  and  over  the 

to  transport  men  to  the  land, 
a  moderate  state  of  agitation ; 
other  arms  might  be  employed 
se  of  the  most  skilful  fisher- 


rER  VII. 

atus  of  Literature — Conversatiom 
ate,  <&c. — A  Friend  returned  from  a 
ingg  and  Ignorance  respecting  Ame- 
reets  of  the  Metropolis— Inopressiont 


much  better  the  public  taste  is 
lellers  than  authors;  and  with 
etimes  foretel  the  fate  of  a  book 
iscription  of  it,  or  after  glancing 
r  the  title-page,  than  the  man 
over  the  pages  for  months  or 
;  nights  to  cut  and  piece  it  in 
f  society.     This  fact,  which  no 


PRINTING-OFFICES,  &C. 


47 


one  can  doubt  after  proper  inquiry,  is  so  much  in  opposition  to 
common  rules  applying  to  other  subjects,  that  I  sought  light 
on  it  while  in  New- York.  We  always  should  expect  to 
find  a  tailor  better  acquainted  with  the  size  of  his  customers* 
shoulders  than  anybody  else,  and  more  likely  to  discover 
whether  a  coat  be  too  narrow  to  fit,  too  long  in  the  sleeves, 
or  too  tight  under  the  arms.  But  it  is  not  so  with  your  author 
and  his  work.  He  deliberates  for  weeks  or  monlhs  upon 
his  subject,  then  upon  his  plan,  then  on  the  size  of  his  book, 
the  mode  and  time  for  its  appearance ;  and  after  having 
fixed  all  these,  and  changed  his  intention  over  and  over 
again,  and  at  length  completed  his  work  as  he  finally  deter- 
mines, he  is  the  most  anxious  man  in  the  nation  till  he 
ascertains  whether  he  has  succeeded  or  failed.  This  he 
now  feels  utterly  unable  to  judge  of,  until  he  has  facts  to 
form  an  opinion  upon,  and  actually  sees  whether  or  not  his 
book  has  sold.  But  not  so  with  the  bookseller.  He  has 
rules,  or  instinct,  or  some  other  guide,  by  which  he  often  can 
judge  of  the  fate  of  a  work,  before  it  has  been  grasped  after 
or  rejected  by  a  single  customer ;  and,  as  if  by  some  secret 
electricity,  a  uniform  presentiment  concerning  a  book  some- 
times  pervades  the  whole  trade  from  the  moment  of  its  ap. 
pearance,  or  even  from  a  very  early  period  after  its  an- 
nouncement. 

There  are  cases  in  which  they  have  experience  to  refer 
to,  and  then  they  may  prejudge  as  we  might  the  shoemaker, 
who  had  pinched  us  in  the  toes,  and  was  about  to  shoe  a 
neighbour  with  still  larger  feet  than  our  own.  But,  in  the 
great  majority  of  cases,  the  bulk  of  the  booksellers  do  not 
know  the  author,  or  are  not  well  acquainted  with  the  subject 
on  which  he  writes,  or  both,  and  therefore  camiot  judge  of 
what  is  to  come  from  what  has  happened. 

To  show  what  kind  of  satisfaction  I  got  from  some  con- 
versation on  books  during  my  stay  in  New-York,  I  will 
give  a  brief  recapitulation  of  what  I  heard  in  some  of  the 
printing-offices  and  book-stores.  Some  of  these  are  exceed- 
ingly large  and  rich ;  and  the  grand  review  of  the  whole 
typographic  park  and  batteries  of  the  capital  is  worthy 
o(  the  attention  of  an  intelligent  traveller.     The  most  mag- 


48 


NEW-YORK. 


nificent  presses  in  the  world  are  racking  and  groaning  in  a 
hundred  different  streets,  from  Messrs.  Harper's  mammoth 
power-press  downwards,  like  so  many  mills  foi  grinding  the 
wheat,  bran,  and  shorts  with  which  even  the  almost  insatia- 
ble  literary  appetite  of  the  American  public  is  surfeited. 
The  four  or  five  principal  stereotype-foundries  are  also 
very  large  establishments,  some  of  which  ar.'  connected 
with  type-foundries,  and  printing-offices  of  twenty  and  thirty 
presses. 

"  My  friend,"  said  a  most  intelligent  and  virtuous  South 
American  just  from  Europe,  on  entering  a  spacious  room 
where  two  rows  of  men  were  casting  types  in  the  old  way, 
one  at  a  time;  "my  friend,  despotism  will  never  prevail 
against  us."  On  being  introduced,  however,  into  a  place 
where  twenty  boys,  with  machines,  were  doing  the  work  of 
forty  men,  he  was  lost  in  surprise  and  pleasure,  and  declared 
that  he  almost  pitied  the  poor  despots  who  had  to  contest 
against  such  weapons  so  rapidly  forged,  and  so  irresistible. 
The  truth  is,  we  ought  to  exhibit  the  press  to  our  children, 
as  a  machine  little  understood,  and  consequently  much 
abused.  It  would  be  an  improving  lesson  to  every  child  to 
be  led  to  the  village  printing-office  once  a  year,  and  hear 
comments  on  the  nature,  history,  and  uses  of  this  great  im- 
plement of  civilization,  morality,  and  religion. 

But  to  return  to  book-store  conversation.  « Have  you 
seen  the  new  number  of  this  magazine  ?  It  is  astonishingly 
popular.  The  publisher  had  but  one  course  to  purstie,  and 
he  took  the  right  one.  He  had  not  capital  enough  to  spend 
a  large  sum  at  once,  to  pay  an  editor  of  known  talents,  and 
therefore  could  not  expect  his  support  from  the  learned. 
So  he  got  it  up  as  handsomely  as  he  knew  how,  and  has 
taken  measures  to  have  it  well  puffed  in  the  newspapers. 
The  consequence  is,  that  he  has  had  great  success."  I 
saw  this  publisher ;  and  remarked  to  him  that  his  merits,  as 
I  had  understood,  were  generally  acknowledged.  Yes,  he  \ 
replied,  he  had  taken  good  care  about  that.  It  would  be  in 
vain,  he  said,  if  any  man  should  expect  his  works  to  be 
esteemed,  if  the  newspapers  did  not  commend  them  over 
and  over  again ;  and  to  secure  this  end  means  must  be  used. 


"If  I 

public 

know 

know ' 

I  have 

great  : 

what  I 

a  hope 

of  its  ( 

an  hon 

He  hat 

Englan 

same  c 

extremi 

thought 

Americi 

the  fore 

"Yoi 

publish( 

rest  of  r 

having  i 

At  any  i 

and  pai( 

not  rest 

printing 

form  the 

they  ev< 

establish 

and,  whf 

which  aj 

time.     \ 

not  prete 

or  even 

to  us.     r 

than  youi 

and  have 

did  it  in  ^ 

We  have 

public  CO 


rORR. 

re  racking  and  groaning  in  a 
1  Messrs.  Harper's  mammoth 
10  many  mills  foi  grinding  the 
hii'h  even  the  almost  insatia- 
Lmerican  public  is  surfeited, 
itereotype-foundries  are  also 
me  of  which  ari=  connected 
g-offices  of  twenty  and  thirty 

ntelligent  and  virtuous  South 
<n  entering  a  spacious  room 
casting  types  in  the  old  way, 
lespotism  will  never  prevail 
need,  however,  into  a  place 
ines,  were  doing  the  work  of 
se  and  pleasure,  and  declared 
r  despots  who  had  to  contest 
iy  forged,  and  so  irresistible, 
bit  the  press  to  our  children, 
)d,  and  consequently  much 
ving  lesson  to  every  child  to 
ffice  once  a  year,  and  hear 
y,  and  uses  of  this  great  im- 
,  and  religion. 

conversation.  "  Have  you 
gazine  ?  It  is  astonishingly 
It  one  course  to  purstie,  and 

not  capital  enough  to  spend 
editor  of  known  talents,  and 
I  support  from  the  learned, 
as  he  knew  how,  and  has 

puffed  in  the  newspapers, 
las  had  great  success."  I 
ed  to  him  that  his  merits,  as 
ly  acknowledged.     Yes,  he 

about  that.  It  would  be  in 
lid  expect  his  works  to  be 
d  not  commend  them  over 
fiis  end  means  must  be  used. 


C0NVKR8ATI0N8  WITH  BOOKSBllERB.         40 

"If  I  should  lie  down  under  my  counter,  and  expect  the 
pubhc  to  g,ve  me  credit  for  my  merits,  they  would  never 
know  or  care  whether  I  had  any  or  not.  They  wouW  n« 
know  whether  .t  was  a  man  or  a  dog  there  in  the  dark  So 
I  have  given  my  numbers  as  good  an  appearance  and  as 
grea  a  variety  as  possible,  and  now  shall  be  able  to  do 
what  I  please,  with  such  patronage  as  [  enjoy."  I  expressed 
a  hope  that  h.s  periodical  would  soon  aim  to  exceeSthe  best 
of  Its  class  in  other  countries.  Yes,  he  hoped  it  would  be 
aj,  honour  to  our  own,  by  having  no  superior  in  the  world! 

England  and  was  to  put  a  cover  on  the  next  number  of  the 

same  colour  and  devices  as  the  London ,  which  was 

extremely  elegant,  and  universally  admired.  Literature 
though.  I,  h.  s  abundant  reason  to  smile  at  her  pro  pecuS 
America,  or  rusher  to  laugh  at  them  !  Lucky  fhatTone  of 
the  foreign  tourists  were  present  to  tell  this  story  abroad  • 

You  may  blame  us  as  much  as  you  please,"  said  another 
publisher;  « I  have  no  more  public  spirit,  perhaps,  th  n  the 
rest  of  my  craft,  but  I  have  at  least  no  objection  to  my  books 
having  real  merit,  or  to  their  being  written  by  Americans 
At  any  rate,  I  have  made  some  exertions  to'^secure  boS^.* 
and  paid  a  good  deal  of  money.     But  all  the  blame  does 
not  rest  with  us.     We  must  sell  our  books,  or  we  must  stop 
pnnting:  that  is  very  clear.     If  then  there  is  nobody  to  2 
form  the  public  of  the  merits  of  different  works,  how  wUl 
they  ever  know  them?      You  literary  gentlemen  do  ^o 
establish  reviews  m  which  the  public  place'much  confidence 
and,  what  IS  worse,  you  do  not  read  one  half  the  books 
which  appear  while  they  are  fresh,  as  you  say.  for  want  of 

TuJ^^rV'^'  '^''  ^'''^  your  conscie„ces_I  do 
not  pretend  to  judge  you.  You  will  not  attempt  to  improve 
or  even  to  direct  public  taste,  and  have  left  it^o  itself  a„J 
o  us.  Now  judge  whether  we  have  done  our  duty  better 
than  yourselves  or  not.  We  had  to  begin  with  a  low  taste! 
and  have  had  to  raise  it,  if  it  has  been  raised.  Well  we 
did  It  in  what  we  believe  to  be  the  only  way  in  our  ;^  vlr! 
We  have  always  endeavoured  to  print  as  good  books  as  the 
public  could  be  brought  to  read,  and  hav!  morelan  oncJ 

5* 


50 


NEW'VORK. 


overshot  our  mark,  perhaps,  without  ever  falling  below  it. 
The  result  thus  far  has  been  a  perceptible  and  general  im- 
provement in  certain  classes  of  books;  and  as  we  are 
encouraged  in  pursuing  our  course,  we  intend  to  persist  in  it, 
and  hope  to  see  still  more  important  results. 

"  But  to  give  you  an  idea,"  continued  the  bookseller,  "  of 
the  form  and  circumstances  under  which  public  taste  ap- 
pears to  our  craft.  A  publisher,  perhaps,  pays  a  young  man 
who  has  a  profession  and  leisure  a  hundred  dollars  to  make 
a  volume  of  newspaper  scraps,  and  put  some  odd  name  to 
it :  or  he'll  meet  with  a  manuscript  of  the  Adventures  of 
Timothy  Terrible,  or  some  other  well-known  individual, 
and  will  bargain  with  the  author  for  iu  By  the  time  it 
has  been  out  a  fortnight,  we  have  orders  for  the  whole 
edition,  and  half  another.  A  correspondent  writes  from  the 
South,— The  fifty  Timothy  T.  received,  and  please  send  us 
seventy-five  more.  From  the  North  we  get,— Please  send, 
on  receipt  of  this,  one  hundred  copies  of  Tim.  Terrible. 
— P.S.  By  first  boat. 

"  Well,  we  think  we'll  try  a  little  more  American  literature, 
as  that  appears  to  be  rising.  Come,  we'll  give  'em  some- 
thing a  little  solid.  So  we  come  out,  we  will  suppose,  with 
a  learned  work  on  the  History,  Character,  and  Condnionof 
the  Crim  Tartars,  past,  present,  and  to  come ;  and  almost 
simultaneously  with  the  Life  and  Writings  of  General  Some- 
body, one  of  the  greatest  men  in  our  Republican  history, 
the  property  of  the  nation.  For  each  of  these  we'll  suppose 
we  pay  eight  hundred  dollars, — cash,  you  understand. 
Well,  our  customers,  in  about  ten  days,  begin  to  write, — 
Send  us  no  more  Generals  or  Crim  Tartars.  They  don't 
go  down. — N.B.  Too  dry  and  too  true.  Gentlemen,  we 
Bend  you  buck  forty-nine  Crim  Tartars  and  all  the  Generals. 
They  don't  suit  our  market.  Now  mind,  here's  two  octavo 
volumes:  investment  on  each  about  three  thousand,  yes, 
thirty-five  hundred  dollars,  including  copy-right.  Well,  they 
are  good  books,  that  is,  so  people  say ;  and  they  sell  easy 
along,  one  here  and  one  there.  But  here  comes  in  old 
Squire  Jones,  or  Colonel  West,  or  some  such  gentleman,  and 
takes  one  of  these  books.    •  Well,'  he  says, '  here's  a  work 


I'm 


YORK. 

ivithout  ever  falling  below  it. 
1  a  perceptible  and  general  im- 
s  of  booka;  and  as  we  are 
lui  He,  we  intend  to  persist  in  it, 
portant  results. 

'  continued  the  bookseller,  "  of 
under  which  public  taste  ap- 
er,  perhaps,  pays  a  young  man 
ure  a  hundred  dollars  to  make 
ips,  and  put  some  odd  name  to 
muscript  of  the  Adventures  of 

other  well-known  individual, 
uthor  for  it.  By  the  time  it 
le  have  orders  for  the  whole 

correspondent  writes  from  the 
r.  received,  and  please  send  us 
e  North  we  get, — Please  send, 
dred  copies  of  Tim.  Terrible. 

.  little  more  American  literature, 
.  Come,  we'll  give  'em  some- 
ome  out,  we  will  suppose,  with 
ry,  Character,  and  Condition  of 
3nt,  and  to  come ;  and  almost 
and  Writings  of  General  Sorae- 
len  in  our  Republican  history, 
For  each  of  these  we'll  suppose 
liars, — cash,  you  understand, 
out  ten  days,  begin  to  write, — 
or  Crim  Tartars.  They  don't 
and  too  true.  Gentlemen,  we 
im  Tartars  and  all  the  Generals. 
Now  mind,  here's  two  octavo 
ch  about  three  thousand,  yes, 
icluding  copy-right.  Well,  they 
people  say ;  and  they  sell  easy 
liere.  But  here  comes  in  old 
St,  or  some  such  gentleman,  and 
'  Well,'  he  says, '  here's  a  work 


CONVERSATION  WITH  BOOKSELLERS. 


51 


I'm  glad  to  see.  I  know  the  author,  sir,  and  he's  a  man  of 
sterling  merit.  Why  I  knew  him  when  your  father  was  so 
high.  Yes,  sir,  that  book  ought  to  sell — it  will  sell — don't 
you  find  it  so?'  '  Why,  yes,  colonel,  I  suppose  it  would,  if 
everybody  had  your  penetration.  How  many  shall  1  send 
you  V  '  Oh,  oh,  why,  I  don't  know,  I  have  no  time  to  read 
just  now;  but  perhaps  I'll  call  in  some  time  when  1  have. 
I  suppose  I  can  get  it  any  day  this  month,  can't  I  V  '  Yes, 
I'm  afraid  so,  or  next  year  either.'  Well,  Dr.  Studious 
expresses  his  pleasure  at  the  appearance  of  a  book  so  pro- 
found on  the  Crim  Tartars.  ♦  Come  here,  sir,  I'll  sit 
down  and  tell  you  what  I  know  about  the  author  and  hia 
faithful  investigations  into  his  subject.'  'Why,  doctor,' 
says  I,  '  I  think  you  had  better  read  the  book,  and  give  me 
a  short  pithy  recommendation  of  it  for  the  information  of  the 
public.  My  own  opinion  is  already  made  up.'  •  Why, 
sir,'  says  the  doctor,  '  I  have  a  share  in  a  library,  where  I 
expect  to  find  it ;  and  if  I  should  want  it,  perhaps  you'll 
have  a  cheaper  edition  by-and-by.' 

"  Now  so  it  goes  ;  and  while  I'm  talking  with  one  of  the 
learned  gentlemen,  two  or  three  men  come  in,  and  want 
eight  or  ten  Timothy  Terribles  a  piece ;  ^nd  the  amount  of 
it  is,  that  while  we  must  wait  two  or  perhaps  three  years  to 
get  a  profit  of  six  or  seven  hundred  dollars  on  an  investment 
of  thirty-five  hundred,  in  six  months  we  run  oflf  two  editions 
of  a  work  that  we've  got  up  for  six  hundred  dollars  each, 
and  have  cleared,  perhaps,  a  thousand,  besides  the  stereo- 
type-plates ready  for  more.  Encouraging  solid  literature 
and  American  authors  is  a  good  thing  to  talk  about,  it  sounds 
very  well ;  and  I  should  like  much  to  practise  it  more  and 
more.  It  is  easy  to  say,  O,  its  all  the  publisher's  fault, — 
you've  no  business  to  print  such  trash,  and  you  should  not 
go  out  of  the  country  so  much  for  books.  But  here  you 
see  are  the  facts.  Now  what  are  you  going  to  do  in  such 
a  case  ? 

"  Go  and  ask  the  learned  and  the  good,  the  intelligent 
and  the  influential,  why  they  can't  take  the  trouble  to 
examine  works  as  they  appear,  or  before,  and  let  their 
countrymen  know  which  are  good  and  which  bad.    A  few 


•• 


MBW-YORK. 


r 


just  commendations  would  seal  the  success  of  good  works 
and  good  writers,  now  overlooked  and  unknown ;  and  a  few 
good  death-blows  against  bad  books  would  kill,  along  with 
the  works,  their  authors,  and  perhaps  the  taste  which  sus- 
tains them." 

"  I  want  ten  Timothy  Terrible,"  said  a  customer,  inter- 
rupting the  speaker.  "  Excuse  me,  sir,"  said  he,  breaking 
off,  "  for  talking  so  long  about  this  matter.  I  only  want  to 
let  you  understand  tliat  it  is  not  all  the  fault  of  the  book- 
sellers.    Hadn't  you  better  take  twenty  copies,  sir  T" 

An  intelligent,  pure,  and  warm-hearted  friend,  just  landed 
from  Europe,  grasped  my  hand  at  a  corner.  Amid  the  bustle 
of  Broadway,  he  had  recognised  my  countenance  ;  and  out 
of  the  thousands  of  names  which  must  have  struck  his  ears 
since  we  had  met,  he  found  mine  ready  on  his  tongue,  like 
one  still  near  his  heart.  What  feelings  such  a  meeting  ex- 
cites. How  gratifying  to  find  such  a  friend,  though  changed, 
yet  the  same.  His  observant  eyes,  how  much  they  must 
have  seen ;  his  discriminating  and  original  mind,  how  much 
it  must  have  accomplished  in  dividing  the  gold  from  the 
dross ;  his  rich  memory,  how  its  stores  must  have  been 
enlarged !  His  grasp  and  his  eye  told  how  foreign  scenes 
had  warmed  his  heart  for  home,  and  assured  me  that  I  had 
a  key  to  all  its  treasures. 

"  The  view  I  have  taken  of  Europe,"  said  he,  "  has  put 
my  mind  into  new  trains  of  thought,  in  which  I  have  been 
indulging  during  my  voyage  homeward.  And  what  a  com- 
panion is  the  sea,  what  associates  are  the  waves  and  storms 
for  one  who  is  occupied  with  subjects  of  interest  and  im- 
portance !  The  United  States,  imperfectly  known  as  they 
are,  exercise  a  most  powerful  sway  upon  the  most  influential 
minds  of  Europe.  They  constantly  contemplate  us,  and 
admire  and  hope,  through  a  crooked  glass  and  misty  air. 
Their  views  are  very  imperfect ;  their  conceptions  crude 
and  often  erroneous ;  and  we  have  as  much  reason,  perhaps, 
to  regret  the  over-estimates  made  of  us  on  some  points,  as 
the  oversight  of  our  advantages  or  merits  on  others.  1  regret 
to  say  that  the  best  informed  men  of  Britain  appear,  so  far 
as  I  can  speak  from  knowledge,  exceedingly  ill  acquainted 


'-YORK. 


I 


FOREIGN  VIEWS  OF  AMERICA. 


03 


eal  the  success  of  good  works 
oked  and  unknown ;  and  a  few 
d  books  would  kill,  along  with 
!  perhaps  the  taste  which  bus- 

rible,"  said  a  customer,  inter- 
use  me,  sir,"  said  he,  breaking 
ut  this  m:itter.  I  only  want  to 
s  not  all  the  fault  of  the  book- 
ake  twenty  copies,  sir  ?" 
arm-hearted  friend,  just  landed 
id  at  a  corner.  Amid  the  bustle 
ised  my  countenance  ;  and  out 
hich  must  have  struck  his  ears 
mine  ready  on  his  tongue,  like 
lat  feelings  such  a  meeting  ex- 
i  such  a  friend,  though  changed, 
li  eyes,  how  much  they  must 
T  and  original  mind,  how  much 
n  dividing  the  gold  from  the 
w  its  stores  must  have  been 
is  eye  told  how  foreign  scenes 
me,  and  assured  me  that  I  had 

)f  Europe,"  said  he,  "  has  put 

thought,  in  which  I  have  been 
lomeward.  And  what  a  com- 
iates  are  the  waves  and  storms 
;h  subjects  of  interest  and  im- 
3s,  imperfectly  known  as  they 

sway  upon  the  most  influential 
instantly  contemplate  us,  and 

crooked  glass  and  misty  air. 
rfect ;  their  conceptions  crude 
have  as  much  reason,  perhaps, 
made  of  us  on  some  points,  as 
;s  or  merits  on  others.    1  regret 

men  of  Britain  appear,  so  far 
dge,  exceedingly  ill  acquainted 


with  the  geography  as  well  as  the  institutions  and  state  of 
society  in  this  country.  We  are,  indeed,  perhaps,  too  much 
inclined  to  be  surprised  at  this  and  to  pity  it.  \Ve  converse 
of  England  with  every  advantage,  because  our  very  school- 
books,  as  well  as  our  libraries,  were  English,  until  whhin  our 
own  recollection  ;  and  many  of  us  in  our  earliest  years  were 
taught  more  of  their  history,  geography,  biography,  and  even 
ecclesiastical  and  political  affairs,  than  of  our  own.  But  their 
course  of  education,  in  all  its  grades,  has  little  more  refer- 
ence to  America  than  it  had  before  Columbus  sailed  Irom 
Spain.  Their  instructors  want  teaching  before  they  can  be 
competent  on  this  branch  of  knowledge  ;  and  whence  then 
is  it  possible  for  the  people  to  be  well  informed  of  our  con- 
dition 1  Our  teachers,  on  the  contrary,  our  fathers  and  our 
countrymen,  until  recently,'  have  directed  almost  all  their 
attention  to  foreign  lands,  and  read  only  foreign  books. 
When  therefore  intelligent  men  in  England,  Scotland,  and 
Ireland  expressed  their  surprise  at  my  familiarity  with 
English  books  and  men,  the  geography  and  scenery  of  the 
country,  I  could  not  but  feel  that  they  over-estimated  it, 
because  they  contrasted  it  with  their  own  ignorance  of 
America. 

"  We  ought  to  exert  ourselves  more  than  we  do  to  inform 
our  European  brethren  concerning  our  country  and  our- 
selves, to  remove  erroneous  impressions,  and  prevent  their 
falling  into  new  mistakes.  But  how  shall  this  be  done? 
Shall  we  send  them  our  periodical  publications  or  our 
books  ?  Which  of  them  would  do  us  justice,  and  at  the 
same  time  be  instructive  to  them  1  In  far  too  many  of  our 
writers  an  aflectation  of  foreign  sentiments  and  foreign  style 
removes  every  American  feature  from  their  productions,  while 
in  others  the  perverted  views  and  degraded  language  of  the 
low  level  from  which  they  have  lately  risen  would  at  once 
mislead  and  disgust  a  person  seeking  for  information  con- 
cerning our  state  and  society.  Some  publications  we  have 
of  an  elevated  tone,  and  a  just  and  commanding  influence  at 
home  and  abroad.  But  these  are  either  scientific  or  devoted 
to  literature  in  general,  or  at  least  so  much  more  designed 
for  the  use  of  ourselves  than  of  others,  that  they  would  not 


M 


NKW-YORK. 


■erve  their  purpose.     Foreigners  are  ignorant  of  the  very 
elements  of  our  society.     They  need  to  know  the  indi- 
viduals of  whom  it  is  composed,  and  comprehend  the  mutual 
action  and  reaction  of  domestic  life  and  the  public  institu- 
tions.    They  can  neither  conjecture  at  the  application  of 
our  laws  to  our  circumstances,  nor  understand  what  were 
the  circumstances  which  required  them ;  much  less  can  they 
explain  the  effects  which  are  produced.     They  wonder  at 
us-,  as  at  a  new  specimen  of  mechanism ;  and  our  country 
excites  as  ill-defined  admiration  as  did  the  ship  May-flower 
among  the  Indians  of  Massachusetts  Bay,  when  the  Pilgrims 
arrived  on   the  coast.     They  are  slow  to  ascertain  the 
causes  of  its  motion,  and  never  can  resolve  the  forces  by 
which  it  is  impelled.     Still,  here  is  the  object  constantly 
before  them  ;  and  the  more  they  gaze  the  more  they  are  in- 
terested.    Now  I  do  not  see  how  they  are  to  be  taught, 
otherwise  than  as  an  apprentice  learns  his  trade.    Familiar- 
ize them  with  the  ordinary  details,  as  we  are  familiarized 
with  our  own  society  in  childhood.     Do  we  not  understand 
Scottish  life  at  different  periods  of  history,  through  the  familiar 
scenes  presented  by  Scott,  better  than  we  could  learn  them 
from  almost  any  investigation  we  might  make  into  history 
and  legislation  T    Let  some  of  their  intelligent  men  come 
and  spend  months  in  our  families,  conforming  to  the  customs 
of  the  people,  and  observing,  without  preconceived  opinions, 
how  society  goes  on.      After   sufficient  attention  to  the 
practical  operation  of  our  system,  they  would  be  able  to 
enlighten  others  in  the  grammar  of  our  society.    Until  this, 
or  some  equally  simple  and  sensible   measure  shall  be 
adopted,  we  shall  be    overrated  by  some,  underrated  by 
many,  and  annually  inspected  by  tourists,  who  will  by  turns 
make  us  laughing-stocks  and  objccu  of  disgust  to  ourselves 
and  others. 

"  But,  seriously,  this  subject  has  struck  me  with  much 
force.  All  misrepresentations  of  us  are  injurious  at  home 
and  abroad.  It  is  of  immense  consequence  to  the  world, 
that  all  mankind  should  see  what  we  know  of  the  success 
with  which  political,  civil,  and  religious  liberty  have  been  put 
to  in  effectual,  harmonious,  and  most  happy  operation  among 


grees : 

and  a 

respe( 

learn 

state, 

privat 

exist  i 

difl'usi 

knowi 


Nev 


Ne 
only  i 
earth. 
&c., 
are  f 
abroa 
gentli 
frienc 
show 
tries ; 
house 
sketc 
come 
hearc 
and  a 


RK. 

's  are  ignorant  of  the  very 
iy  need  to  know  the  indi- 
,  and  comprehend  the  mutual 
c  life  and  the  public  institn- 
ecture  at  the  applicalion  of 
,  nor  understand  what  were 
d  them ;  much  less  can  they 
produced.  They  wonder  at 
echanism;  and  our  country 
I  as  did  the  ship  May-flower 
setts  Bay,  when  the  Pilgrims 

are  slow  to  ascertain  the 
er  can  resolve  the  forces  by 
sre  is  the  object  constantly 
y  gaze  the  more  they  are  in- 
low  they  are  to  be  taught, 
i  learns  his  trade.  Familiar- 
tails,  as  we  are  familiarized 
}od.  Do  we  not  understand 
9f  history,  through  the  familiar 
er  than  we  could  learn  them 
we  might  make  into  history 
*  their  intelligent  men  come 
IS,  conforming  to  the  customs 
ithout  preconceived  opinions, 
r  sufficient  attention  to  the 
tern,  they  would  be  able  to 
ir  of  our  society.     Until  this, 

sensible  measure  shall  be 
ted  by  some,  underrated  by 
by  tourists,  who  will  by  turns 
tbjocts  of  disgust  to  ourselves 

t  has  struck  me  with  much 
I  of  us  are  injurious  at  home 
}e  consequence  to  the  world, 
hat  we  know  of  the  success 
religious  liberty  have  been  put 
I  most  happy  operation  among 


FOREIGN  RESIDENTS. 


00 


us.  They  ought  to  know,— what  they  certainly  would  if 
they  knew  us  well, — that  all  men  may  live  in  the  enjoyment 
of  a  similar  state  of  society,  whenever  circumstances  shall 
enable  them  to  try  it.  They  would  see,  loo,  that  our  system 
is  not  necessarily  unfriendly  to  learning  in  any  of  its  de- 
grees ;  that  influence  is  not  necessarily  denied  to  the  good 
and  allowed  to  the  bad  ;  that  the  tendency  of  things  in  any 
respect  is  not  to  degradation.  On  the  contrary,  they  would 
learn  that  knowledge  and  virtue,  being  indispensable  to  the 
state,  and  vice  and  debasement  of  every  kind  dangerous  to 
private,  because  to  public  interests,  the  strongest  motives 
exist  in  such  a  country  to  cultivate  the  purest  virtue,  and  to 
diffuse  the  utmost  knowledge,  while  facilities,  before  un- 
known, are  daily  offered  for  the  propagation  of  both. 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


Iifevf -York  continued — Foreign  Residents  and  Visiters — Foreign 

Books. 


New-York  is,  indeed,  multum  in  parvo,  and  contains  not 
only  individuals  from  moat  of  the  travelling  nations  of  the 
earth,  but  societies  of  French,  Spaniards,  Germans,  Italians, 
&c.,  of  considerable  extent.  For  these  and  others  there 
are  particular  haunts.  It  is  no  longer  necessary  to  go 
abroad  to  see  the  habits  of  Europeans :  by  proper  means,  a 
gentleman  may  procure  an  introduction  to  respectable  and 
friendly  foreign  residents,  whose  domestic  arrangements 
show  much  of  the  peculiarities  of  their  respective  coun- 
tries ;  while  at  several  boarding-houses,  hotels,  and  eating- 
houses,  by  taking  a  single  meal,  you  may  get  a  lively 
sketch  of  several  distant  countries  at  a  time.  The  latest 
comers  from  Europe  and  Asia  are  generally  to  be  seen  or 
heard  of  at  Delmonico's  in  the  course  of  "  ordinary"  hours ; 
and  a  person  has  only  to  keep  his  eyes  and  ears  open  to  get 


M  MBW-YOIIK. 

some  of  ihe  ideas  they  bring  with  them  of  the  countenance, 
dress,  language,  in-.innert),  and  habits  of  many  of  his  brethren 
of  the  human  race  whom  he  will  never  see.  Now  and  then 
an  individual  may  be  found  among  our  countrymen  who 
takes  peculiar  pleasure  in   bringing  such  peculiarities  to 

light. 

Such  was  an  old  bachelor  I  could  name,  of  an  apparently 
ascetic  character,  who  always  looks  grave,  and  never 
smiles.  He  is  very  thin,  wilh  a  sour  look,  and  goes 
wrapped  up  carefully  to  the  ears,  so  that  he  seems  to  be 
always  cold,  let  the  weather  be  never  so  pleasant,  and 
displeased  even  if  things  go  on  never  so  well.  He  takes 
pains  to  draw  foreigners  uuo  conversation  by  using  some 
word  in  their  language  in  speaking  to  a  waiter;  and, 
though  he  cannot  speak  a  sentence  in  any  foreign  tongue, 
with  attentive  looks  and  occasional  grunts  and  nods,  makes 
them  suppose  he  comprehends  all  they  say,  and  will  some- 
limes  sit  and  hear  one  talk  a  half  hour  without  betraying 
his  ignorance  of  what  is  spoken. 

Others,  and  more  rational  men,  I  have  known,  who  liked 
occasionally  to  resort  to  such  places  to  familiarize  them- 
selves  with  the  languages  and  habits  of  different  countries. 
This  may  he  made  a  useful  practice ;  for  as  the  mind  im- 
proves by  exercise,  so  does  the  heart  by  expanding  its  feel- 
ings, and  indulging  benevolence  towards  many  and  various 
subjects.  No  one  can  spend  a  few  moments  in  the  society 
of  intelligent  and  virtuous  foreigners,  without  strongly  res- 
izing that  the  study  of  man  is  to  be  pursued  among  our 
species,  and  not  in  a  library.  There  is  often  great  expo- 
sure to  the  youth  in  bringing  him  into  contact  unguardedly 
with  all  foreigners  he  may  meet ;  but  if  he  is  to  be  taught 
living  languages,  I  would  by  all  means  put  him  among  per- 
sons of  pure  character  who  speak  them,  that  he  might  apply 
his  views  to  h  legitimate  object,  viz.  the  acquisition  of  valu- 
able facts. 

One  is  not  likely  to  realize  the  number  of  books  in  foreign 
languages  annually  demanded  in  our  country,  until  he  sur- 
veys such  of  the  stores  as  are  principally  devoted  to  the 
sale  of  them.     Compared  with  floods  of  our  own  books,  it 


is  tnif 
numci 
are  ar 
it  mig 
many 
gardiM 
plishn 
ductio 
rally  I 
The  t 
gible  I 
for  it 
gainin 
langui 
times 
to  refl 
to  lea 
ever  f 

A? 
books 
beneli 
we  n 
work! 
studei 
be,  fu 
nals, 
fully 
to  All 
ever  1 
as  ef 
the  SI 
times 

Ti 
of  be 
upon 
it  is  i 
it  is  I 
brain 
brou| 


RK. 

ill  them  of  the  countenance, 
ibits  of  many  of  his  brethren 
II  never  see.  Now  and  then 
tnong  our  countrymen  who 
nging  such  pecuharities  to 

lOuUl  name,  of  an  apparently 
8  looks  grave,  anil  never 
ih  a  sour  look,  and  goes 
rs,  so  that  he  seems  to  be 
be  never  so  pleasant,  and 
in  never  so  well.  He  takes 
conversation  by  using  some 
peaking  to  a  waiter;  and, 
itence  in  any  foreign  tongue, 
anal  grunts  and  nods,  makes 
all  tiiey  say,  and  will  some- 
half  hour  without  betraying 
n. 

en,  I  have  known,  who  liked 
places  to  familiarize  them- 
[labits  of  different  countries, 
actice ;  for  as  the  mind  im- 
heart  by  expanding  its  feel- 
i  towards  many  and  various 
I  few  moments  in  the  society 
igners,  without  strongly  re^- 
3  to  be  pursued  among  our 
There  is  often  great  expo- 
im  into  contact  unguardedly 
!t ;  but  if  he  is  to  be  taught 
1  means  put  him  among  per- 
lak  them,  that  he  might  apply 
,  viz.  the  acquisition  of  valu- 

le  number  of  books  in  foreign 
in  our  country,  until  he  sur- 
re  principally  devoted  to  the 
,  floods  of  our  own  books,  it 


FOKUIUN  HOOKS. 


67 


is  true  thoy  form  but  a  small  strcmn  ;  but  yet  they  are  more 
numerous  than  would  be  sujiposed.  it  is  a  pity  that  there 
are  amonfj  them  so  many  of  tiie  vicious  French  novels  ;  but 
it  miglit  be  expected  that  the  injudicious  instruction  of  so 
many  of  our  youth  in  a  language,  which  in  improperly  re- 
garded i)y  niaiiy  parents  as  a  merely  ornanieiital  accom- 
phshmont,  without  any  care  being  taken  to  make  it  an  intro- 
duction to  prolitable  associates  or  useful  books,  would  natu- 
rally lead  too  many  to  dangerous  sources  of  amusement. 
The  trutii  prol)al)ly  is,  that  many  a  French  auliior,  unintelli- 
gible to  the  parent,  is  in  the  hands  of  a  child  whose  fondness 
for  it  arises  from  a  less  commendable  source  than  a  love  of 
gaining  knowledge.  O,  this  business  of  learning  modern 
languages  is  full  of  abuses.  One  abuse,  however,  some- 
times prevents  a  greater  one.  It  is  a  comfort,  in  this  view, 
to  reflect,  that  probably  not  one  in  ten  of  those  who  pretend 
to  learn  French  ever  reads  it ;  and  not  one  in  fifty,  perhaps, 
ever  speaks  it. 

A  great  deal  of  science  comes  mto  the  country  in  French 
books,  and  our  physicians  are,  to  a  good  extent,  I  believe, 
benefited  by  it,  and  of  course  the  people.  From  Germany 
we  now  import  a  great  many  Ureek,  Latin,  and  Hebrew 
works  at  very  low  prices,  so  that  multitudes  of  instructers, 
students,  and  private  gentlemen  are,  and  many  more  may 
be,  furnished  with  classics,  and  the  Scriptures,  in  their  origi- 
nals, for  moderate  sums,  whicii  woulii  have  been  most  cheer- 
fully paid  by  some  of  my  friends  in  years  past,  and  sufficed 
to  fill  libraries  which  were  unfortunately  too  empty.  When- 
ever Hebrew,  Greek,  and  Latin  shall  be  as  generally  taught, 
as  easily  learnt,  and  as  practically  used  as  they  may  be, 
the  supply  of  this  branch  of  literature  must  be  swelled  many 
times  beyond  its  present  bounds. 

The  French  and  German  novels  form  a  pernicious  mass 
of  books,  of  vast  amount,  annually  disgorged  by  the  press, 
upon  a  world  that  is  rendered  the  more  truly  poor  the  richer 
it  is  in  sucli  productions.  The  (ierman  light  literature  (as 
it  is  called),  thanks  to  their  sublimated  and  ghost-making 
brains,  is  so  strange  and  uncouth  that  it  can  scarcely  be 
brought  to  touch  this  world,  and  therefore  produces  but  little 


M 


NEW-YOKK. 


direct  evil  influence  upon  men's  lives.  Tlieir  novels  tend  to 
draw  off  the  mind  to  "  nonentities  und  quiddities ;"  and  i\» 
it  is  chiedy  objrcis  ol'  sense  wliioii,  when  improperly  pre- 
sented, tend  to  evil,  there  is  a  negative  advantu|;e  in  those 
ridiculous  phantasies  which  possess  no  positive  excellence. 
To  look  at  the  machinery  of  .such  works,  you  mi^ht  think 
them  weapons  raised  to  alllicl  the  worhl ;  but  they  are  so 
crooked  and  waverinj^  in  the  hand,  that  it  is  but  seldom  they 
can  be  made  to  hit  it  to  injure.  Their  writers  waste  time, 
it  is  true,  for  their  readers  ;  and  by  removing  the  enclosures 
and  land-marks  of  probability  and  common  sen.'ie,  turn 
minds,  like  cattle,  into  cstrays ;  but  still  they  do  not  infu- 
riate and  madden  them  as  the  novel-writers  of  France. 
Many  of  these  are  notoriously  vicious  and  corrupting 
at  the  present  day;  for  coming  down  to  society  as  it  is, 
packing  off  ghosts,  and  releasing  virtues,  vices,  and  epithets 
from  the  personilications  in  which  they  have  been  bound  by 
the  Germans,  they  lead  up  the  most  corrupt  characters, 
arrayed  in  attractive  garbs,  and  think  that  whoever  tan 
sugar  over  the  blackest  licnd  can  make  the  best  book. 
Booksellers  themselves,  who  deal  out  such  works  to  our 
public,  sometimes  shudder,  like  apothecaries,  at  the  deadly 
nature  of  their  poisonous  wares. 

I  visited  a  vessel  just  from  Scotland,  with  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  passengers ;  and,  oh !  the  inquiries  concern- 
ing friends,  and  news,  and  luggage,  and  children, — all  in  a 
broad  dialect !  And  then  the  groups  of  Swiss  and  German 
emigrtints  who  move  about  in  strange  raiment,  generally 
taking  the  middle  of  the  streets,  in  Indian  tile,  gazing,  but, 
from  their  frequency,  no  longer  a  gazing-stock — cocked  hats, 
long  queues,  breeches  justified  on  round  their  haunches,  as 
if  never  to  come  off.  I  have  heard  people  complain  in  this 
country  of  what  "  poor  folks"  must  do.  But  in  Europe 
they  find,  through  necessity,  they  can  do  ten  times  more.  I 
saw  one  day  a  crowd  in  the  street,  caused  by  a  momentary 
obstruction.  I  examined  it  in  passing,  and  found  that  an 
Alsatian  woman,  with  a  monstrous  bundle  upon  her  head, 
and  an  infant  in  her  arms,  had  suddenly  stopped  to  pin  the 
frock  of  one  of  the  children  who  were  accompanying  her ; 


and  ttii 

luul  pr( 

\Vh( 

the  mc 

end  oft 

from  1 

often  s 

which 

like  th 

it,  and 

a  state 

some 

descei 

a  grei 

stale, 

and  1 

abour 

as  m: 

cule. 

endcci 

upon 

often 

repre 

dresa 

Tl 

ntshi 

city 

are  c 

dead 

ceed 

peo[i 

dead 

in  tl 

play 

up  !1 

remi 
turn 
evei 
the 


KK. 


SCENE  rnOM  BROOKLYN. 


I  lives.  Their  novels  tend  to 
ticH  und  quiddities  ;"  and  ns 
Axidi,  when  improperly  pre- 
nc^rative  iidvuntat;e  in  thoHC 
stivus  no  positive  excellence, 
uch  works,  you  ini^lit  think 
the  world  ;  but  they  are  so 
md,  that  it  is  but  acldom  they 
.  Their  writers  waste  time, 
d  by  removing  the  enclosures 
y  and  common  sense,  turn 
s  ;  but  still  they  do  not  inlii- 
lie  novel-writers  of  France, 
sly  vicious  and  corrupting 
g  down  to  society  as  it  is, 
ig  virtues,  vices,  and  epithets 
ich  they  have  been  bound  by 
he  moat  corrupt  characters, 
ind  think   that  whoever  tun 

can  make  the  best  book. 
Jeal  out  such  works  to  our 
e  apothecaries,  at  the  deadly 
i. 

Scotland,  with  about  one  hun- 
I,  oh !  the  inquiries  conccrn- 
rgugc,  and  children, — all  in  a 
groups  of  Swiss  and  German 
1  strange  raiment,  generally 
ts,  in  Indian  tile,  gazing,  but, 
a  gazing-stock — cocked  hats, 

on  round  their  haunches,  as 
leard  people  complain  in  this 
'  must  do.  But  in  Europe 
ey  can  do  ten  times  more.  I 
reet,  caused  by  a  momentary 

passing,  and  foimd  that  an 
trous  bundle  upon  her  head, 

suddenly  stopped  to  pin  the 
I'll©  were  accompanying  her ; 


and  this  she  nt  lenglli  effected  with  all  her  cmbarrassmcnW, 
■iiul  proceeded  as  if  it  were  no  extraordinary  ihmg. 

When  we  observe  the  movements  of  men  near  at  hand, 
the  motives  of  their  exertions  and  the  results  in  which  they 
end  often  excite  our  laughter ;  whil-,  if  we  contemplate  them 
from  a  distance,  and  especially  in  large  bodies,  there   is 
often  something  impressive  and  cv.-n  exalted  in  the  emotions 
which  we  experience.     The  very  greatness  of  the  mass, 
like  the  mountain  or  the  sea,  swells  the  mind  which  embraces 
it  and  keeps  its  faculties,  like  so  many  arms  and  hands,  in 
a'state  of  tension,  which,  if  not  distressing,  is  at  least  so  tire- 
some  as  to  remove  all  disposition  to  ridicide.     When  we 
descend  to  some  little  subject,  the  mind  finds  its  powers  in 
a  great  measure  unoccupied ;  and  as  this  is  an  unnatural 
state,  it  seeks  employment  in  making  deeper  invesligalions 
and  new  combinations,  which,  in  the  case  of  a  subject 
abounding  in  such  self-contradictions  and  unreasonablencM 
as  man,  must  inevitably  lead  one  to  pity  and  another  to  ridi- 
cule.     Historians  and  warriors  understand  this  matter,  aim 
endeavour  to  keep  the  eye  of  the  world  or  of  posterity  fixed 
upon  men  in  masses,  or  on  individuals  at  a  distance.      I  hey 
often  obscure,  conceal,  patch  up,  or  pervert  the  truth,  by 
representing  the  individuals  in  any  thing  butthe.r  everyday 

dress  1 

There  is  much  that  is  ludicrous  in  the  motley  crowds 
rushing  through  Broadway  at  different  hours  ;  but  when  the 
city  is  seen  in  one  view,  the  sight  is  a  solemn  one.     II  you 
are  called  to  depart,  or  if  you  by  any  chance  arrive,  m  the 
dead  of  night,  the  vacancy  and  silence  of  the  streets  are  ex- 
ceedingly  impressive.     Two  hundred  and  forty  thousand 
people  obeying  the  laws  of  nature  at  least  in  repose.      J  he 
dead  of  night,  strictly  speaking,  lasts  but  a  very  «l'ort  time 
in  the  principal  thoroughfares ;  for  the  termination  of  the 
play  at  about  twelve,  and  of  fashionable  parties  at  one,  keeps 
up  a  rumbling  of  carriages  for  an  hour  or  two,  until  the  most 
remote  routes  have  been  performed,  and  the  horses  are    e- 
turned  to  their  stables.     After  this  is  over,  half  hours  and 
even  hours  of  almost  total  silence  sometimes  "f  "''^"f '.;;^'"^ 
the  watchman,  in  the  dome  of  the  City  Hall,  proclaims  to 


60 


NEW-TORK. 


r 


the  ears  of  the  sick  and  the  watchful  that  another  day  is 
approaching,  whetlicr  desired  or  appreliended  by  them. 

A  cannon  is  fired  at  breaii  of  day  on  Governor's  Island  ■ 
but  before  this  the  lines  of  milk,  bread,  and  butchers'  carts 
are  m  motion,  and  some  come  rattling  down  the  island  from 
above,  while  others  are  collecting  at  the  ferries  on  the  Long 
feland  and  Jersey  shores,  and  all  are  soon  dinning  the  streets. 
From  the  heights  of  Brooklyn  you  may  hear  tiieir  rattling, 
mcreasmg  from  feeble  beginnings,  until,  joined  by  the  drays 
proceedmg  from  the  north  to  the  south  part  of  the  city  to 
their  stands,  it  swells  into  an  unintermitted  roar,  like  the 
sound  of  Niagara  at  Queenston,  to  stop  not  till  midnight. 
Some  time  after  daylight,  while  the  lamps  at  tiie  steamboat 
docks  are  still  glimmering,  and  those  in  the  streets  which, 
by  mistake,  have  had  oil  enough,  the  first  smoke  begins  to 
rise  from  the  houses  of  labourers  in  the  upper  wards.     Some 
five  or  ten  early  risers  are  just  putting  sparks  to  wood  or 
coal;  and  their  example  is  so  contagious,  that  fires  are 
speedily  blazing  in  every  house  and  almost  every  chimney 
m  the  city.     In  the  cold  season  this  is  a  singular  sight ;  and 
when  tlie  wind  is  from  the  south  in  the  morning,  the  heavy 
cloud  which  generally  overhangs  the  city  is  blown  north- 
ward,  leaving  the  Battery  in  the  light  of  the  sun,  while  many 
of  the  other  parts  are  deeply  obscured.     Soon  after  sunrise, 
floods  of  daily  emigrants  from  the  upper  wards,  meeting  at 
Broadway  and  Canal-street,  pour  down  to  the  wharves,  the 
mechanics'  shops,  and  the  houses  in  building,  many  of  them 
with  convenient  little  tin-kettles,  containing  their  dinners  and 
preparations  for  heating  them,  all  bound  to  their  work. 
Then  come  the  clerks  of  all  degrees,  the  youngest  generally 
first :  and  these,  in  an  hour  or  therebouts,  give  place  to  their 
masters,  who  flow  down  with  more  dignity,  but  scarcely 
ess  speed,  to  the  counting-rooms  of  tiie  commercial  streets, 
hundreds  of  them,  especially  in  unfavourable  weather,  in  the 
omnibuses,  which  render  tlie  street  so  dangerous  now  and 
at  three  or  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.    Ere  tliese  crowds 
have  disappeared,  they  become  crossed  and  mingled  with 
sonrie  of  the  fourteen  thousand  children  who  go  to  the  public 
and  primary  schools  at  nine,  nnd  an  unknown  number  who 


frequen 

also  th 

the  me 

clients, 

Marine 

selecte( 

same  p 

the  Sta 

loves  tl 

The 

motley 

showei 

sation ' 

if  the  s 

the  fas! 

has  fu 

dresses 

crowd 

step  by 

would 

and  w( 

the  rig 

dustrio 

occupi' 

would 

all  thii 

young 

know 

to  aid 

graftin 

plan  o 

to  des 

occasi 

But 

ations 

to  trac 

one  to 

watch 

marke 


'ORK. 

watchful  that  another  day  is 
r  apprehended  by  them, 
jf  day  on  Governor's  Island ; 
Ik,  bread,  and  butchers'  carts 
rattling  down  the  island  from 
ng  at  the  ferries  on  the  Long 
II  are  soon  dinning  the  streets. 
I  you  may  hear  their  rattling, 
gs,  until,  joined  by  the  drays 
he  south  part  of  the  city  to 
unintermitted  roar,  like  the 
jn,  to  stop  not  till  midnight. 
;  the  lamps  at  the  steamboat 

those  in  the  streets  which, 
^h,  the  first  smoke  begins  to 
I  in  the  upper  wards.  Some 
t  putting  sparks  to  wood  or 
9  contagious,  that  fires  are 

and  almost  every  chimney 
this  is  a  singular  sight ;  and 
h  in  the  morning,  the  heavy 
gs  the  city  is  blown  north- 
light  of  the  sun,  while  many 
icured.  Soon  after  sunrise, 
he  upper  wards,  meeting  at 
IT  down  to  the  wharves,  the 
ts  in  building,  many  of  them 
containing  their  dinners  and 

all  bound  to  their  work, 
rees,  the  youngest  generally 
lerebouts,  give  place  to  their 
tnort  dignity,  but  scarcely 
s  of  the  commercial  streets, 
mfavourable  weather,  in  the 
reet  so  dangerous  now  and 
ternoon.     Ere  tliese  crowds 

crossed  and  mingled  with 
ildreu  who  go  to  the  public 
1  an  unknown  number  who 


r 


DAILY  SCENES. 


01 


frequent  the  private  schools  of  all  sorts.  Then  are  seen 
also  the  students  of  Columbia  College  and  the  University, 
the  medicals  in  winter  hurrying  to  Barclay-street,  lawyers, 
clients,  and  witnesses  gatliering  about  the  City  Hall,  the 
Marine,  and  Ward  Courts,  with  a  set  of  spectators  generally 
selected  from  those  classes  who  have  been  ruined  by  the 
same  process  which  is  about  to  be  repeated  in  the  name  of 
the  State.  A  burnt  child  dreads  the  fire,  but  a  singed  cat 
loves  the  chimney-corner. 

The  apple-women  and  orange-men  at  St.  Paul's  see  a 
motley  crowd  passing  from  ten  till  twelve ;  and  if  it  be  a 
showery  day,  the  shop-keepers  have  a  good  deal  of  conver- 
sation with  chance  visiters  stepping  in  for  shelter.  After  this, 
if  the  sky  permits  (for  bad  walking  is  but  a  small  objection), 
the  fashionable  promenading  begins  ;  and  the  window-glass 
has  full  employment  in  reflecting  the  forms  and  colours  of 
dresses  which  vary  with  the  moon.  The  movements  of  the 
crowd  are  now  at  common  time,  instead  of  the  double  quick 
step  by  which  the  business-man  is  distinguished.  A  stranger 
would  think  that  New-York  was  a  city  of  idleness,  gayety, 
and  wealth.  But  let  him  turn  down  almost  any  street  at 
the  right  or  left,  and  enter  some  of  the  dwellings  of  the  in- 
dustrious poor,  and  he  would  find  all  were  net  rich  or  un- 
occupied ;  let  him  glance  at  the  chambers  of  others,  and  he 
would  be  convinced  that  some  are  wretched  and  in  want  of 
all  things.  Yet  he  need  not  blarne  too  severely  the  jj-^y  and 
young  for  being  so  regardless  of  the  suflerers  near  them ;  they 
know  not  of  their  existence,  or  realize  not  their  own  ability 
to  aid  them.  All  parents  do  not  estimate  the  value  of  en- 
grafting practical  and  systematic  benevolence  upon  their 
plan  of  education,  and  rather  teach  their  children  by  example 
to  despise  the  poor,  than  to  regard  them  as  beings  offering 
occasions  of  moral  self-improvement  to  the  rich. 

But  it  would  be  too  long  to  tell  all  the  aspects  and  fluctu- 
ations of  the  currents  for  a  single  day  in  the  capital,  or  even 
to  trace  the  course  of  a  single  drop,  like  myself,  circulating 
one  tour  round  the  system.  It  is  enough  that  the  clocks  and 
watches  go  on  with  their  seconds  and  hours  as  if  they 
marked  no  appointments  for  friendly  or  formal  visits ;  no 

6* 


02 


THE  EAST  RIVER. 


periods  of  payment,  for  persons  who  would  prefer  to  keep 
their  sixpences  or  their  thousands  ;  no  departures  or  arrivals 
of  cargoes,  no  clianges  in  slocks — in  short,  as  if  prosperity 
or  adversity,  wealth  or  poverty,  joy  or  disappointment  were 
not  decided  by  every  revolution  of  the  hands  for  thousands 
of  anxious  individuals. 

It  is  a  solemn  reflection,  after  the  bustle  has  passed,  and 
the  traveller  again  contemplates  empty  streets  and  noiseless 
pavements,  deserted  stores  and  silent  wharves,  while  weary 
bones  are  resting,  the  anxious  busy  at  their  dreams,  and  the 
sick  and  dying,  or  their  attendants,  alone  conscious  of  the 
hour,  that  two  hundred  and  forty  thousand  persons  have 
spent  another  day.  The  time  has  rapidly  passed,  but  in  it 
how  many  millions  of  property  have  changed  hands;  what 
applications  of  capital  have  been  determined  upon,  which 
will  increase  the  comforts  of  whole  districts  of  country; 
what  plans  have  been  devised  by  consummate  commercial 
skill;  how  many  a  generous  deed  has  been  done  with 
wealth  honourably  obtained;  how  many  a  piece  of  gold 
added  to  the  miser's  hoard !  In  that  short  space  of  time 
how  many  a  tear  has  been  shed  by  parting  friends ;  how 
many  a  smile  made  by  those  who  have  returned ;  how  many 
a  foreigner  has  first  touched  the  soil  of  America ;  how  many 
a  traveller,  like  me,  1ms  closed  his  visit  to  this  busy  city ! 


CHAPTER  IX. 

Fashions  and  old  Fashions  in  Travelling— New- York  Harbour— Re- 
treat of  Washington's  Army  from  Long  Island— The  East  River- 
Low  State  of  Agriculture  caused  b>  our  defective  Education— Hell 
Gate — Long  Island  Sound. 

The  rapidity  of  our  steamboats  and  railroad  cars  d'  prive 
us  of  a  great  many  interesting  sights  and  ngreeable  reflec- 
tions, and  prevent  us  from  becoming  particularly  acquainted 
with  any  part  of  our  country-.     The  improved  vehicles  un- 


doubied 

ithis  evil 

(the  old 

when  t 

leaving 

travelle 

a  farme 

the  hea 

like  to 

or  set 

travellt 

fast.     1 

early  ri 

and  su 

air  and 

on  the 

know  i 

tind  m 

fields  i 

sympa 

derstai 

I  may 

any  of 

malad; 

knowr 

Even  1 

eases, 

distort 

on  one 

the  th 

am  lia 

I  hi 

script 

not  tc 

there 

loved 

at  on 

Strang 

somet 


r 


IT  RIVER. 

ins  who  would  prefer  to  keep 
mds  ;  no  departures  or  arrivals 
L'ks — in  short,  as  if  prosperity 
ty.  joy  or  disappointment  were 
ion  of  the  hands  for  thousands 

fter  the  bustle  has  passed,  and 
tes  empty  streets  and  noiseless 
id  silent  wharves,  while  weary 
i  busy  at  iheir  dreams,  and  the 
idants,  alone  conscious  of  the 
forty  thousand  persons  have 
e  has  rapidly  passed,  but  in  it 
ty  have  changed  hands ;  what 
been  determined  upon,  which 
f  whole  districts  of  country; 
;d  by  consummate  commercial 
s  deed  has  been  done  with 
;  how  many  a  piece  of  gold 
In  that  short  space  of  time 
shed  by  parting  friends  ;  how 
ifho  have  returned ;  how  many 
e  soil  of  America ;  how  many 
d  his  visit  to  this  busy  city ! 


HABITS. 


63 


ER  IX. 

veiling— New- York  Harbour— Re- 

11  Long  Island— The  East  River— 

by  our  defective  Education— Hell 


oats  and  railroad  cars  d»  prive 

J  sights  and  agreeable  reflec- 

loming  particularly  acquainted 

The  improved  vehicles  un- 


doubledly  have  their  advantages  ;  but  Avhile  I  acknowledge 
this  evident  fact,  1  am  not  forgetful  of  those  belonging  to 
the  old  and  slower  modes.    I  am  fond  indeed,  now  and  then, 
when  time  permits,  and   an  interesting  region  invites,  of 
leaving  every  thing  which  modern  fashion  approves  in  the 
traveller,  and  betaking  myself  to  a  country  stage-coach  or 
a  farmer's  wagon,  and  feel  delight  in  the  rattling  wheels  and 
the  healthful  jolting  motion  of  a  stony  hill ;  and  sometimes 
like  to  mount  the  saddle,  and  take  the  road  at  break  of  day, 
or  set  off  on  foot  in  company  with  some  chance  fellow- 
traveller,  to  earn  an  appetite  by  a  long  walk  before  break- 
fast.    I  am  so  unfortunate  as  to  have  sprung  from  a  race  of 
early  risers,  unacquainted  with  the  luxuries  of  morning  naps, 
and  suffer  from  an  infirmity  that  makes  me  love  morning 
air  and  athletic  exercise.     I  can  congratulate  a  city  friend 
on  the  certain  prospect  he  has  that  his  children  will  never 
know  so  lamentable  a  state  of  existence  as  that  in  which  I 
find  myself,  when  I  hanker  after  pure  breezes  and  dewy 
fields  in  one  of  my  paroxysms,  and  when  so  far  from  finding 
sympathy  for  my  afflictions,  can  scarcely  make  anybody  un- 
derstand what  I  mean  when  I  talk  about  it.     My  city  friends, 
I  may  well  say,  have  no  reason  to  apprehend  that  they  or 
any  of  their  descendants  will  ever  be  exposed  to  such  a 
malady :  it  is  not  in  their  blood,  and  the  name  of  it  is  un- 
known in  their  vocabulary,  else  so  rich  in  asthenic  terms. 
Even  those  whose  scientific  repast  it  is  to  converse  of  all  dis- 
eases, from  the  corn  produced  by  fasnionable  shoes  to  the 
distorted  spine,  and  the  head  deformed  in  infancy  by  lying 
on  one  side,  while  the  nurse  was  asleep,  and  tiie  mother  at 
the  theatre,  even  they  know  not  the  complaint  to  which  I 
am  liable. 

I  have  said  a  great  deal  about  myself,  and  the  nonde- 
script disorder  with  which  I  am  affected ;  and  yet  I  have 
not  told  the  extent  to  which  it  sometimes  proceeds:  for 
there  might  be  danger  that  instead  of  being  gratified  with  my 
loved  country  retreats  in  the  spring,  I  should  be  packed  olT 
at  once,  as  a  confirmed -Bedlamite,  to  a  hospital.  To 
strangers,  however,  I  may  confess,  that  one  reason  why  I 
sometimes  shun  fashionable  vehicles  in  my  journeys  is,  that 


64 


THE  EAST  RIVER. 


r 


I  wish  to  avoid  fashionable  society,  and  revive  the  memory 
of  past  days,  and  of  men  who  have  long  since  ceased  to 
tread  the  world.  I  confess  that  tiiis  fact  is  sufficient  to  for- 
feit  for  me  all  claim  to  fashionable  esteem. 

What!  prefer  the  history  of  our  grandfathers,  that  plain 
unornamented,  unsophisticated  set,  who  were  too  straight-for' 
ward  to  allow  of  any  variety  in  their  existence,  and  so  unde- 
viatmg  m  habits  as  to  admit  of  nothing  romantic :  that  race 
so  profoundly  ignorant  of  modern  refinements,  so  stubbornly 
attached  to  simple  habits  and  plain  speech,  and  the  least 
worthy  of  the  exalted,  the /asAjonai/c  generation  which  has 
succeeded  it ! 

These  remarks  may  prepare  my  readers  for  my  singular 
voyage  down  Long  Island  Sound.    This  I  undertook  "in  a 
sloop,  which  having  unloaded  a  cargo  of  wood,  was  on  her 
return  to  the  mouth  of  Connecticut  River.     The  last  time  I 
had  come  up  the  Sound  I  had  travelled  in  a  steamboat,  and 
at  such  a  rate  as  to  regret  our  swift  speed,  while  others 
around  were  condemning  the  machinery,  the  boiler,  the  hull, 
the  mechanics  who  had  done  their  best  to  produce  a  racer,' 
and  the  master  and  men  who  navigated  her.     Feeling  in  the 
humour  for  an   old-fashioned   passage   through   the  East 
River,  I  was  pleased  to  find  a  vessel  so  much  to  my  mind 
and  flattered  myself  that,  with  the  wind  then  blowing,  I 
should  be  able  to  scan  the  shores  at  my  leisure.     I  looked 
at  the  round  bows  of  the  sloop,  and  then  at  tiie  old  sails  and 
the  light-handed  crew.     By  beating  with  a  long  leg  and  a 
short  one,  she  might  tack  and  tack  without  making  too  much 
head-way,  and  perhaps  reach  Throg's  Neck  in  time  to  wait 
for  the  morning  tide ;  that  is,  after  a  passage  of  about  six 
hours.     The  steamboat  which  I  might  have  chosen  moved 
off  and  out  of  sight,  while  our  hopeful  crew  were  waiting  to 
see  a  Frenchman's  monkeys  stop  dancing  o.  '.}ie  dock,  after 
which,— and  fifteen  minutes  spent  in  rolling  up  sleeves  and 
shoving  the  sloop   out, — we  committed  ourselves  to  the 
deep. 

It  would  take  me  long  to  describe  the  appearance  of 
Brooklyn  Heights  at  sunset,  as  seen  from  certain  points  on 
the  water  below,  or  to  convey  to  a  stranger  an  idea  of  it* 


still  more 
along  its 
shades  of 
noon ;  lik 
morning, 
New-Yorl 
I  expressioi 
are  admit 
it  must  gr 
So  far  as 
cidedly  of 
tropolis  i£ 
drum-fish, 
the  mere 
has  Capr 
Islands,  \ 
of  mounta 
to  the  cit] 
mercial  ei 
peets  so  t 
she  is  eq 
claimed  fi 
never  posi 
York  is 
science,  tj 
world  in  i 
The  pa 
circumsta 
evening,  t 
smooth  gr 
sions,  an( 
western  s 
ing  influei 
its  labour! 
to  the  eye 
lencc  of  tl 
like  tlie  a 
traveller's 
We  look. 


LIVER. 

ty,  and  revive  the  memory 
lave  long  since  ceased  to 
liis  fact  is  sufficient  to  for- 
e  esteem. 

ur  grandfathers,  that  plain, 
,  who  were  too  straight-for- 
eir  existence,  and  so  unde- 
thing  romantic :  that  race, 
refinements,  so  stubbornly 
lain  speech,  and  the  least 
\abla  generation  which  has 

y  readers  for  my  singular 
This  I  undertook  in  a 
argo  of  wood,  was  on  her 
t  River.     The  last  time  I 
i^elled  in  a  steamboat,  and 
iwift  speed,  while  others 
inery,  the  boiler,  the  hull, 
•  best  to  produce  a  racer, 
ited  her.     Feeling  in  the 
(sage   through   the  East 
lel  so  much  to  my  mind, 
e  wind  then  blowing,  I 
at  my  leisure.     I  looked 
then  at  the  old  sails  and 
g  with  a  long  leg  and  a 
vithout  making  too  much 
g's  Neck  in  time  to  wait 
a  passage  of  about  six 
ght  have  chosen  moved 
ful  crew  were  waiting  to 
incing  o»  '.lie  dock,  after 
n  rolling  up  sleeves  and 
nitted  ourselves  to  the 

ribe  the  appearance  of 
n  from  certain  points  on 
stranger  an  idea  of  ita 


r 


HBLL  GATE. 


61 


still  more  delightful  aspect  to  one  who  at  sunrise  walks 
along  its  then  shady  paths.  Though,  like  the  beautiful 
shades  of  Hoboken,  they  are  often  crowded  in  the  after- 
noon ;  like  them  they  are  unseen  and  tinthought  of  in  the 
morning,  when  only  they  arc  truly  delightful.  The  Bay  of 
New- York  is  often  compared  with  that  of  Naples  ;  and  from 
I  expressions  I  have  seen  in  some  of  the  newspapers  (which 
are  admitted  to  be  the  most  authentic  records  in  the  world), 
it  must  greatly  transcend  it  in  some  important  particulars. 
So  far  as  I  have  been  able  to  compare  the  two,  I  am  de- 
cidedly of  the  opinion  that  the  bay  of  our  commercial  me- 
tropolis is  incomparably  before  that  of  Naples  in  eels  and 
drum-fish, .  ,d  that  this  point  of  superiority  vastly  outweighs 
the  mere  circumstance  that  the  latter  is  thirty  miles  wide, 
lias  Capri  and  Ischia,  instead  of  Governor's  and  Gibbet 
Islands,  Vesuvius  in  the  place  of  Paulus  Hook,  and  a  range 
of  mountains  for  the  Jersey  shore.  I  tlierefore  bade  adieu 
to  the  city  with  less  regret  when  I  recollected  that  her  com- 
mercial enterprise  and  prosperity  are  so  great,  and  her  pros- 
pects so  brilliant,  as  to  induce  the  simple  to  presume  that 
she  is  equally  peerless  in  every  thing  else,  and  to  have 
claimed  for  her  a  character  which  fate  has  decreed  she  can 
never  possess.  The  truth  is,  like  a  village  beauty,  New- 
York  is  believed  by  her  admirers  to  be  the  paragon  of 
science,  taste,  and  all  things  ;  because  she  excels  the  known 
world  in  what  they  think  of  greater  value. 

The  passage  of  Hell  Gate  is  very  interesting  under  certain 
circumstances.  When  the  sun  is  low,  eiiiier  at  morning  or 
evening,  the  sloping  light  has  a  pretty  eflect  among  the 
smooth  green  lawns,  the  weeping  willows,  the  tasteful  man- 
sions, and  the  little  white  boat  and  bathing-houses  on  the 
western  shore  of  the  bay.  As  tlie  sloop,  imder  the  clieer- 
ing  influence  of  a  brisk  breeze,  stretches  from  side  to  side,  in 
its  labours  to  stem  the  current,  these  objects  are  presented 
to  the  eye  under  a  great  variety  of  aspects ;  and  the  turbu- 
lence of  the  water  rushing  over  the  rocks  at  tlie  Gate,  so 
like  tlie  agitated  crowd  of  the  city  streets,  redoubles  in  the 
traveller's  mind  tlie  beauties  of  the  tranquil  scenes  on  shore. 
We  look,  tlierefore,  on  the  retired  retreat  of  the  merchaat 


66 


THE  EAST  RIVEB. 


with  some  participation  of  the  pleasure  enjoyed  by  the 
family  groups,  now  and  then  seen  rambling  at  leisure  along 
the  rocks,  or  seated  upon  the  grass  near  the  margui  of  the 
tranquil  bay,  which  often  reflects  the  features  of  that  atlrac- 

tivp  scene* 

If  night  begins  to  close  around  us,  or  if  a  threatening 
thunder-shower  assails  us  in  this  remarkable  pass,  we  may 
have  some  faint  idea  of  those  scenes  of  dread  and  danger 
which  have  here  been  so  often  experienced  by  vesscU 
under  the  equinox,  or  in  a  violent  hurricane.  What  a  re- 
verse  to  the  tranquil  enjoyments  of  the  summer  residence 
must  be  presented  by  the  signal  of  distress  heard  at  night 
between  claps  of  thunder,  or  to  the  gay  party  on  the  rocks 
by  the  coroner's  jury  sitting  in  the  arbour,  over  the  body  ot 
some  shipwrecked  stranger. 

Kip's  Bay  reminded  me  so  strongly  of  the  retreat  oi 
General  Washington  from  Long  Island,  that  my  imagination 
depicted  several  of  the  painful  scenes  which  followed  it,  as 
we  sailed  along  near  the  spot  where  they  had  occurred. 
The  guardian  care  of  Providence  over  our  feeble  army  was 
plainly  shown  at  several  important  epochs  of  our  Kevolu- 
tionary  War,  but  in  no  case,  1  believe,  more  conspicuously 
than  when  the  British  were  ready  to  destroy  or  to  capture  it 
on  Long  Island.     The  hasty  redoubts  and  embankments, 
now  fast  disappearing  there  under  the  plough  and  the  street 
inspector's  rod,  attest  the  zeal   with  which  the  patriotic 
militia  of  the  neighbouring  states  laboured  for  the  defence 
of  the  capital;  but  nothing  can  give  a  lively  picture  of  the 
trying  circumstances  of  the  time  but  the  few  aged  survivors 

of  that  period.  ,      ,      .       • 

» I  was  a  mere  boy,"  said  a  venerable  friend,  »  but  hearmg 
that  the  city  was  in  danger,  sat  up  late  at  night  to  cast 
bullets,  and  in  the  morning  hurried  off  without  leave,  to  join 
the  army.  I  spent  part  of  the  first  night  of  my  active  ser- 
vice standing  sentinel  on  one  of  the  advanced  stations  near 
Flatbush,  during  a  tremendous  thunder-storm,  the  lightning 
of  which  shone  on  the  enemy's  tents  and  arms,  then  in  lull 
view.  Of  course  I  had  time  to  make  my  own  reflections  on 
war,  and  the  desperate  condition  of  the  country.       Witn- 


AST  RIVER. 


AGRICULTURE. 


67 


f  the  pleasuru  enjoyed  by  the 
311  seen  rambling  at  leisure  along 
the  grass  near  the  margin  of  the 
eflects  the  features  of  that  atlrac- 

around  us,  or  if  a  threatening 
in  this  remarkable  pass,  we  may 
lose  scenes  of  dread  and  danger 
10  often  experienced  by  vessel* 
at  violent  hurricane.  What  a  re- 
yments  of  the  summer  residence 
signal  of  distress  heard  at  night 
or  to  the  gay  party  on  the  rocks 
ig  in  the  arbour,  over  the  body  of 

le  so  strongly  of  the  retreat  of 
1  Long  Island,  that  my  imagination 
linful  scenes  which  followed  it,  as 
e  spot  where  they  had  occurred. 
)vidence  over  our  feeble  army  was 
important  epochs  of  our  Revolu- 
ase,  1  believe,  more  conspicuously 
re  ready  to  destroy  or  to  capture  it 
[lasty  redoubts  and  embankments, 
ire  under  the  plough  and  the  street 
le  zeal   with  which  the  patriotic 
ng  states  laboured  for  the  defence 
ng  can  give  a  lively  picture  of  the 
he  time  but  the  few  aged  survivors 

aid  a  venerable  friend,  "  but  hearing 
iger,  sat  up  late  at  night  to  cast 
[ig  hurried  off  without  leave,  to  join 
of  the  first  night  of  my  active  ser- 
1  one  of  the  advanced  stations  near 
;ndous  thunder-storm,  the  lightning 
nemy's  tents  and  arms,  then  in  full 
time  to  make  my  own  reflections  on 
condition  of  the  country" 


With- 


out the  aid  of  a  thick  mist,  which  covered  the  movements 
of  our  army,  our  retreat  would  have  been  discovered,  and 
drawn  on  a  general  attack,  'i'hc  outposts  had  been  ordered 
to  be  kept  occupied  till  the  last,  and  then  to  be  given  up. 
While  some  of  the  troops  were  yet  waiting  to  embark,  how- 
ever, Ihe  commander  of  one  of  them,  who  had  misunderstood 
the  order,  marched  down  to  the  shore.  He  was  ordered 
instantly  l)ack  :  and,  strange  as  it  may  seem,  reoccupicd  his 
post  witliout  tiie  observation  of  tiie  enemy. 

At  the  battle  of  White  Plains  some  of  our  old  soldiers 
were  exasperated  beyond  measure  by  the  conduct  of  General 
Lee.     "  1  was  at  the  battle  of  White  Plains,"  said  an  old 
countryman,  "  and  for  want  of  a  better,  belonged  to  the  re- 
sarve  of  colours.     I  suppose  you  know  what  that  is.     Weli 
in  the  battle,  I  heard  a  kind  of  a  rumpus  behind  me ;  and 
says  I,  they're  a  going  to  cut  ofl'our  retreat.    I'm  afraid  they 
are,  says  our  sargeant.     And  says  he  to  me,  will  you  fall 
upon  them  in  our  rear?     Says  I,  yes;  and  in  front  too, 
says  I:  for  I  was  young  in  them  days.     Well, just  then  I 
looked,  and  sec  his  exceilency.  General  Washington,  coming 
with  his  life-guard.    They  were  on  a  brisk  trot;  and  some 
on  'em  had  to  canter  to  keep  up.     He  rode  right  up  to 
Gen.  Lee,  and  says  he,  general,  why  don't  you  fight  ?   Says 
he,  my  men  won't  stand  it.     Says  his  excellency  (I  won't 
be  sartin  he  said  you  lie;   but  he  said),  you  han't  tried 
em.     And  there  we  were  all  in  a  hurry  to  march  on ;  but 
he  had  been  bribed  with  British  gold  :  there's  no  doubt  on't. 
There  wasn't  a  man  there  but  what  would  have  been  glad 
to  have  his  excellency  say  the  word— and  they  would  have 
riddled  him  finer  than  any  sieve  you  ever  see.     Every  one 
would  have  had  a  push  at  him :  they  would  have  riddled 
him  finer  than  snuff." 

Croton  River,  near  which  this  battle  was  fought,  will  be 
in  great  danger  of  being  carried  to  New-York,  whenever 
the  corporation  shall  care  one  half  as  much  about  what  their 
fellow-citizens  drink,  as  they  do  about  getting  their  votes. 

The  shores  of  the  East  River  show  little  improvement  in 
agriculture ;  an  art  in  which  our  countrymen  are  far  in  the 
rear  of  some  other  nations.     There  is  every  reason  to  be- 


08 


THE  EAST  RIVER. 


I 


lieve,  that  judicious  trpatmeiit  would  soon  double  the  product 
of  these  fields.  But  what  is  to  be  expected  in  a  land  where 
learnin(f  has  long  been  raneed  in  array  ajfainst  tliat  most 
important  science,  where  the  collei^es  are  asliamed  to  admit 
even  its  name  on  their  lists  of  studies,  where  its  instruments 
are  despised  by  the  student,  and  the  aspirant  at  book-know- 
ledge casts  from  him  every  mark  of  that  most  honourable 
profession,  as  8omethin!»  incompatible  with  his  lofty  aims  ? 
How  can  it  l)e  expected  that  our  fields  should  be  subjected 
to  such  systems  as  the  wisest  and  most  enlightened  men 
might  devise,  while  the  most  frivolous  topic  has  the  prefer- 
ence over  agriculture  in  the  company  of  those  whose  ex- 
ample is  powerful  in  socitay;  while  our  children  are  kept 
from  a  knowledge  of  the  plainest  of  its  principles,  though 
drilled  for  months  and  years  on  the  Greek  particles,  or  see 
thousands  squandered  to  make  them  French  parrots  and 
peacocks. 

Here  pardon  me  for  a  digression.  In  the  Granditone 
Academy  the  pupils  were  trained  to  look  upon  the  farmers' 
sons  of  that  town  and  county  as  beings  of  an  inferior  na- 
ture, though  the  public  prejudice  against  it,  which  was  thus 
greatly  fostered,  was  constantly  counteracting  the  labours  of 
the  principal  and  teachers ;  and  I  believe  that  its  "  liberal 
friends"  generally  would  have  been  more  unwilling  to  have 
a  boy  skilled  in  the  care  of  an  orchard,  or  the  rearing  of 
fowls,  than  caught  stealing  eggs  or  apples.  The  manual  la- 
bour schools  deserve  the  thanks  of  the  country  for  breaking 
through  such  miserable  prejudices.  But  they  need  the 
active  and  immediate  co-operation  of  good  parents,  who 
should  make  agricultural,  or  at  least  horticultural  labour  a 
regular  daily  employment,  for  the  moral  and  intellectual, 
as  well  as  the  physical  benefit  of  their  children.  What 
youth  would  not  derive  real  gratification  from  seeing  the 
shrub  or  the  tree  springing  from  the  earth  he  had  softened 
with  that  vigorous  arm  which  is  now  more  honourably  em- 
ployed in  swinging  a  fashionable  walking-stick?  Whose 
health  might  not  be  improved  or  guarded  by  the  most  invigo- 
rating of  all  exercise  in  the  open  air  ?  Whose  intelligence 
would  not  be  cultivated  by  the  application  of  arithmetic  to 


% 


9T  RIVER. 

would  soon  double  the  product 
to  be  expected  in  a  land  where 
Ted  iu  array  ajfainst  tliat  most 

coUei^es  are  asiiamed  to  admit 
»f  studies,  where  its  instruments 
and  the  aspirant  at  book-know- 
mark  of  that  most  honourable 
ompatible  with  his  lofty  aims  ? 
;  our  fields  should  be  subjected 
est  and  most  enlightened  men 

frivolous  topic  has  the  prefer- 

company  of  those  whose  ex- 
;  while  our  children  are  kept 
lainest  of  its  principles,  though 

on  the  Greek  particles,  or  see 
ake  them  French  parrots  and 

ligrcssion.  Tn  the  Granditone 
iined  to  look  upon  the  farmers' 
ity  as  beings  of  an  inferior  na- 
diee  against  it,  which  was  thus 
tly  counteracting  the  labours  of 
and  I  believe  that  its  "  liberal 
e  been  more  unwilling  to  have 
f  an  orchard,  or  the  rearing  of 
ggs  or  apples.  The  manual  la- 
nks  of  the  country  for  breaking 
^judices.  But  they  need  the 
eration  of  good  parents,  who 
•  at  least  horticultural  labour  a 
or  the  moral  and  intellectual, 
lefit  of  their  children.  What 
1  gratirtcation  from  seeing  the 
rom  the  earth  he  had  softened 
1  is  now  more  honourably  em- 
)nable  walking-stick?  Whose 
i  or  guarded  by  the  most  invigo- 
open  air  ?  Whose  intelligence 
10  application  of  arithmetic  to 


PF.TER  FRACTICAL's  FARM. 


M 


the  calculations  of  labour,  wages,  and  prices,  the  practical 
observation  of  plants,  animals,  and  minerals  in  the  great 
public  cabinet  and  museum  of  nature  ?  Whose  habits  might 
not  be  hedged  in  from  evil,  if  the  recreations  of  the  day  led 
to  more  lofty  associations  and  meditations,  tempted  him  into 
the  fields  at  daybreak,  gave  him  a  keener  relish  for  plain  food 
than  the  fashiouHble  cook  can  excite  with  all  his  sauce  and 
spices,  and  make  him  long  for  repose  at  the  hour  which 
Providence  has  assigned  to  it  ? 

It  would  be  well  for  other  places  besides  the  shores  of 
this  strait,  called  the  East  River,  if  they  were  the  residence 
of  such  men  as  my  old  friend  Peter  Practical,  of  Study  work, 
who,  without  the  advantages  of  a  fashionable  friend  to  influ- 
ence him,  did,  as  a  man  of  common  sense  will  sometimes  do 
in  his  circumstances,  train  up  his  sons  to  "ride  horse," 
as  it  was  called, — nut  with  a  lackey,  but  with  a  plough  be- 
hind them ;  to  rise,  not  with  the  headache  at  eight  or  nine, 
to  hot  rolls  and  coflee,  but  with  daybreak,  to  go  to  pasture, 
and  milk  the  milk  they  were  to  drink  for  breakfast.  They 
were  seen  accompanying  their  father  in  the  spring,  planting 
corn  in  company,  and  listening  to  his  remarks  and  questions, 
which  were  full  of  originality,  cheerfulness,  and  good  sense. 
One  had  the  cattle  under  his  particular  care  the  whole 
year  round  ;  another  was  supervisor  of  the  sheep ;  a  third, 
who  had  shown  a  mechanical  turn,  was  put  in  authority 
over  the  tools  and  implements ;  and  little  Tom,  the  fourth, 
was  often  heard  asking  questions  of  them  all,  assisting  them 
and  his  father  by  turns,  studying  the  habits  of  the  fowls, 
the  sheep,  and  the  oxen,  and  looking  further  every  day  into 
the  various  interesting  things  around  him.  Every  season 
brought  new  employments,  pleasures,  and  instructions  to 
them  all ;  and  the  father  often  asked  their  opinions  on  such 
subjects  as  they  could  understand,  and  encouraged  them  by 
acting  on  their  suggestions,  about  the  planting  of  water- 
melons out  of  siglit  from  the  road,  strengthening  the  fence 
where  the  cattle  threatened  to  get  in,  or  putting  scarecrows 
in  a  better  position.  He  kept  them  at  the  district-school  as 
long  as  it  was  open,  and  made  them  the  cleanest  and  most 
pohte  children  there ;  and  when  the  school  ceased,  he  de- 

7 


70 


THK  EAST  RIVKR. 


voted  an  hour  at  loast  in  the  day  to  the  instruction  of  his 
boys,  and  those  of  hit*  neif^hboiirliood   in   his  own  liouse. 
Scarcely  was  this  practice  entirely  inlVinj^ed   upon  even  in 
the  midst  of  phiniins;  or  of  harvest.     I  never  was  in  a  house 
in  which  learniri|f  appeared  to   he  more  liighiy  respected. 
He  had  a  small  library,  containing  solid  works  of  his  father's 
day  and  his  own ;  and  few  j)eople  ever  treated  good  books 
with  more  regard.     Of  useless  or  injurious  ones,  however, 
his  cjiildren  were  taught  to  speak  in  terms  of  contempt  or 
abhorrence ;  and  as  the  rule  of  the  house  on  this,  as  on 
many  other  subjects,  was  to  weigh  every  thing  in  the  balance 
of  practical  usefulness,  it  was  easily  and  generally  justly 
applied.     When  the  Granditone  Academy  announced  that 
chemistry  and  mtural  philosophy  were  to  be  taught  there, 
he  sent  Richan   to  see  whether  he  could  get  any  thing  out 
of  the  instruct  ons  in  those  branches  which  might  be  turned 
to  account.     It  was  soon  apparent,  however,  that  scarcely 
any  thing  of  these  branches  was  taught,  so  much  time  was 
occupied  in  the  classes  of  French  (thiiugh  without  any  hazard 
of  learning  to  speak  it);  of  music,  without  learning  to  sing; 
of  rhetoric,  without  getting  any  thing  to  say  ;  and  of  compo- 
sition, without  obtaining  an  idea  worth  writing.     Richard, 
therefore,  came  home,  at  the  end  of  one  quarter,  with  little 
more  to  communicate  than    a  list  of  definitions  of  learned 
terms,  which  his  father  told  him  were  worth  about  as  much 
as  the  names  of  a  set  of  farming  instruments  to  a  person 
ignorant  of  their  forms  and  uses.     Having  however  been 
obliged  to  purchase  some  elementary  woiks  on  these  in- 
valuable sciences,  he  brought  them  home,  and  from  these 
much  important  information  was  derived,  and  the  names  of 
books  still  more  valuable  to  the  farmer,  who  was  soon  able 
to  make  solid  additions  to  his  library,  and  to  put  in  practice 
the  principles  they  inculcated. 

If  the  propri«!tor  of  any  of  these  tracts  of  land  along  the 
East  River  could  see  the  farm  of  Peter  Practical,  or  even 
the  account  of  its  annual  products  in  cattle,  vegetables, 
fruit,  &c.,  with  the  simple  but  judirious  and  truly  scientific 
means  by  which  extraordinary  results  are  there  produced, 
he  would  wish  that  some  of  his  family  might  take  up  his 


resK 

migl 

that 

obse 

metr 

the  I 

part 

can  I 

Inll 

one 

pure 

once 

bars 

reaii 

from 

T 
coas 
ance 
refuc 
the  t 
inter 
lets  I 
of  wi 
the  r 
ally 
are 
hous 
impa 
vent 
snoM 

I 
frieni 
a  str 
ward 
and  ; 
woul 

N. 
farm 
with 


IT  Riven. 

10  (lay  to  the  instruction  of  his 
ihoiirhood   in   his  own  liouse. 
iiirely  inl'iiiijred   njxdi  even  in 
ivest.      I  never  was  in  a  house 
to   he  more  liighiy  respected, 
ining  sohd  works  of  his  father's 
)eopie  ever  treated  good  books 
88  or  injurious  ones,  liowever, 
speak  in  terms  of  contempt  or 
'  of  the  liouse  on  this,  as  on 
eigh  every  thing  in  the  balance 
IS  easily  and  generally  justly 
;)ne  Academy  announced  that 
)phy  were  lo  be  taught  there, 
er  he  could  get  any  thing  out 
•anches  which  might  be  turned 
parent,  however,  that  scarcely 
vas  taught,  so  much  time  was 
ich  (thiiugh  without  any  hazard 
usic,  without  learning  to  sing ; 
y  thing  to  say  ;  and  of  eompo- 
dea  worth  writing.     Richard, 
Biul  of  one  quarter,  with  little 
list  of  definitions  of  learned 
im  were  worth  about  as  much 
ming  instruments  to  a  person 
uses.     Having  however  been 
imentary  woiks  on  these  in- 
t  them  home,  and  from  these 
'as  derived,  and  the  names  of 
le  farmer,  who  was  soon  able 
library,  and  to  put  in  practice 

these  tracts  of  land  along  the 
n  of  Peter  Practical,  or  even 
•(•ducts  in  cattle,  vegetables, 
judicious  and  truly  scientific 
'  results  are  there  produced, 
lis  family  might  take  up  his 


LONO  ISLAND  SOUND. 


71 


residence  in  the  neighbourhood.  To  this,  however,  there 
might  be  an  objection  :  for  it  is  stated,  un  good  authority, 
that  in  one  place  on  Long  Island,  where  an  iiileliigent 
observer  would  exclaim,  "  Why  is  this  not  the  garden  of  the 
metroplisT"  there  has  been  a  secret  association  among 
the  people,  to  eflect  the  exclusion  of  every  person  from  that 
part  of  the  country  in  which  Mr.  Practical  lives.  But  how 
can  this  be  eflected  ?  inquires  one  of  my  republican  readers. 
In  this  way :  if  a  piece  of  ground  is  lo  be  sold  at  auction, 
one  or  more  of  the  society  attends,  and  if  it  is  likely  to  be 
purchased  by  any  one  suspected  of  such  an  origin,  he  at 
once  outbids  him,  and  the  loss  is  divided  among  the  mem- 
bers of  the  association,  who  appear  to  believe  that  what 
remains  to  them  of  their  worldly  estates  has  thus  been  saved 
from  destruction. 

The  northern  shore  of  Long  Island,  unfortunately  for  the 
coasting  trade,  with  few  exceptions,  is  of  a  uniform  appear- 
ance, and  has  few  harbours  where  even  a  sloop  may  find 
refuge  from  a  northerly  storm.  A  steep  sand-bank  boundi 
the  Sound  on  the  south,  almost  in  its  whole  extent,  and  long 
intervals  are  generally  found  between  the  few  bays  and  in- 
lets that  break  its  uniformity.  It  is  surprising  that  the  cases 
of  wreck  and  loss  of  life  have  not  been  more  frequent ;  for 
the  number,  variety,  and  value  of  the  cargoes  which  annu- 
ally pass  through  this  great  channel  of  domestic  commerce 
are  surprisingly  great,  and  fast  increasing.  'I'he  light- 
houses, which,  now  shine  like  diamond  pins  on  almost  every 
important  headland,  do  what  human  precaution  can  to  pre- 
vent disasters :  but  what  aid  can  they  afford  in  misty  or 
snowy  weather  1 

I  was  reminded  of  the  anxious  night  once  spent  by  a 
friend  in  a  steamboat  at  the  mouth  of  yonder  harbour,  with 
a  strong  gale  blowing  in,  and  the  vessel,  with  her  head  to- 
wards it,  revolving  her  ponderous  wheels  with  all  her  might, 
and  yet  barely  able  to  hold  the  station  which  no  anchor 
would  have  enabled  her  to  maintain. 

Not  far  under  our  lee  was  the  spot  where  an  enterprising 
farmer's  son,  from  a  retired  country  town,  in  a  sloop,  loaded 
with  wood  for  New-York,  was  driven  on  shore  at  a  high 


vt 


LONU  ISLAND  80VND. 


■prinnf  tide  in  the  night,  and  rrmnined  ignornnt  of  his  situa- 
tion till  mornini;  broke,  and  showed  them  they  were  safe. 
The  waves  which  hiid  broken  over  them  hiui  thrown  the 
vessel  up  to  the  verge  of  u  euhivated  field,  so  that  with  littlo 
difHculiy  they  leaped  upon  the  stone  wall  which  surrounded 
it ;  and  afier  recovering'  from  rdmost  freezing  by  sheltering 
themselves  awhile  behind  it,  they  found  comfortable  refresh* 
ments  in  a  neighbouring  farm-houst;. 

With  scarcely  less  suffering,  though  with  better  fortune, 
another  friend  of  mine,  of  three  times  his  age,  and  ten  times 
his  skill,  had  conducted  his  little  vessel  through  these  waters 
in  a  December  niglu,  when  a  heavy  fall  of  rain  and  snow, 
accompanied  with  freezing  weather,  had  rendered  it  impos- 
sible to  loosen  a  rope  or  lower  a  sail,  and  a  tremendous 
gale  hoarsely  commanded  liie  furling  of  the  canvass  on 
penalty  of  vengeance.  Every  brace  and  halliard  had  be- 
come a  spar  of  ice,  and  the  sails  could  not  be  cut  nut  of  the 
yards  and  buntlines,  because  ti)e  crew  had  refused  to  do 
duty,  and  gone  b»low.  The  old  commander,  undaunted  by 
all  these  difficulties,  might  have  been  seen  (had  there  been 
anybody  to  observe  him),  firmly  holding  the  helm,  some- 
times looking  in  vain  through  the  darkness  for  any  sign  of 
the  coast,  at  other  times  straining  his  eyes  to  distinguish 
what  light-house  it  might  be  he  saw  or  thought  he  saw  over 
the  icy  tnffrail.  The  terrors  of  that  night, — tlioiigh  the 
tale  I  had  listened  to  in  the  Medilerrancar,, — were  strongly 
impressed  upon  my  mind. 


New. 
tur 
bul 

N 
■tree 
seen 
its  s 
inter 
men* 
had 
large 

try. 

taste 
T 
pleas 
city  I 
been 
almo 
been 
publi 
with 
a  sen 
quadi 
doub 

COITlf 

site  c 
front! 
the  u 
ings 
the  £ 
chief 
able 
but  tl 


0  SOUND. 

nnined  ignornnt  of  his  situa- 
lowed  tliem  they  were  safe, 
over  ihetn  hiid  thrown  the 
ivHted  field,  so  that  with  littlo 
stone  wall  which  surrounded 
dmost  freezing  by  sheltering 
»y  found  comfortable  refresh* 
toust. 

,  though  with  better  fortune, 
times  his  age,  and  ten  times 
5  vessel  through  these  waters 
eavy  fall  of  rain  and  snow, 
ther,  had  rendered  it  impos- 
er  a  sail,  and  a  tremendous 
furling  of  the  canvass  on 
brace  and  halliard  had  be- 
s  could  not  be  cut  out  of  the 
he  crew  had  refused  to  do 
td  commander,  undaunted  by 
!  been  seen  (had  there  been 
ily  holding  the  helm,  some- 
he  darkness  for  any  sign  of 
ling  his  eyes  to  distinguish 
saw  or  thought  he  saw  over 
of  that  night, — though  the 
diterrancar,, — were  strongly 


NEW-HAVEN. 


73 


CHAPTER  X. 

New- Haven — Literary  aspert — Rpfined  Society — Ta«t«  in  Arrhilte- 
turn — Uuryinjf  Grouml— Frniiklin  Inatitute — Painlinjfi  of  Trum- 
bull— Ainuricun  Taite — Leiirning. 

New- Haven,  so  celebrated  for  the  attractive  beauty  of  its 
streets,  the  variety  and  romantic  nature  of  the  neighhouring 
scenery,  and  still  more  the  literary  and  refined  character  of 
its  society — New-Haven  it  was  my  lot  to  visit  at  a  most 
interesting  period,  namely,  during  the  ceremonies  of  Com- 
mencement Week.  The  annual  celebration  of  Yale  College 
had  been  changed  this  year,  but  did  not  fail  to  collect  a 
large  concourse  of  persons  from  different  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, with,  as  frequently  happens,  some  foreigners  of  literary 
taste  and  intelligence. 

There  is  scarcely  any  thing  better  calculated  to  give 
pleasure  to  a  friend  of  learning  than  to  visit  this  delightful 
city  on  such  an  occasion.  It  seems  as  if  New-Haven  had 
been  originally  planned  for  the  site  of  a  university;  and 
almost  as  if  every  public  as  well  as  every  private  house  had 
been  erected,  every  garden  laid  out,  every  court-yard  and 
public  square  beautified,  and  every  tree  planted  and  trained, 
with  direct  reference  to  its  appearance  and  convenience  as 
a  seat  of  learning.  The  central  square,  which  is  a  noble 
quadrangle  of  eight  or  nine  hundred  feet,  surrounded  by 
double  rows  of  large  elms,  and  divided  by  a  street  that  is 
completely  arched  over  with  thick  foliage,  although  it  is  the 
site  of  four  of  the  finest  public  buildings,  and  shows  the 
fronts  of  handsome  mansions  on  three  of  its  sides,  affords 
the  university  its  place  of  honour,  for  the  six  college  build-> 
ings  are  ranged  in  a  long  line  on  the  western  side,  where 
the  ground  is  highest,  and  the  elevation  superior  to  the 
chief  part  of  the  city.  New-Haven  is  a  place  of  consider- 
able business,  with  the  inhabitants  of  surrounding  towns ; 
but  the  stores  are  so  remote  from  this  delightful  centre,  or 


n 


NEW-HAVEN. 


at  least  so  effectually  concealed  from  view,  where  this  fine 
display  of  buildinga  is  visible,  that  the  iden  as  well  as  the 
interruption  of  business  is  entirely  excluded.     It  is  impos- 
sible for  a  stranger  to  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  Green,  as  it 
is  familiarly  called,  especially  from  some  of  the  most  favour- 
able points  of  view  (as,  for  example,  the  public  or  the  pri- 
vate doors  of  the  Tontine  Coffee  House),  without  experi- 
encing sensations  of  a  peculiar  and  most  agreeable  nature. 
He  looks  from  under  the  shade  of  a  venerable  elm  grove 
upon  a  smooth  level  of  green  grass,  about  four  hundred  feet 
wide,  and  eight  hundred  in  length,  from  right  to  left.     The 
eye  then  first  meets  an  obstacle,  and  falls  upon  a  long  line 
of  drooping  trees  of  the  same  description,  standing  like  a 
wall  of  verdure  before  him,  disclosing  only  the  general  pro- 
portions of  three  fine  churches,  in  different  tastes,  but  at 
uniform  distances,  with  towers  rising  to  a  great  height  into 
the  air,  and  giving  an  interrupted  view  of  tlie  university. 
As  for  tranquillity,  it  is  unbroken,  unless,  perhaps,  by  the 
traffickers  in  water-melons  offering  their  cooling  wares  to 
abate  the  thirst  of  a  literary  race ;  or  by  the  voices  of  the 
young  treading  tlie  paths  of  science,  which  stretch  across 
the  smooth  turf  up  the  hill  to  the  colleges,  "  as  plain  as  road 
to  parish  church,"  and  far  more  easy  than  the  steep  of 
science,  as  it  was  represented  to  them  at  first  starting,  in  the 
frontispiece  of  Dr.  Webster's  Spelling  Book. 

The  periodical  ringing  of  the  bells,  with  the  signs  of 
gathering  and  dispersing  classes,  the  stillness  which  reigns 
through  this  part  of  the  city  during  the  college  exercises, 
and  the  student-like  aspects  of  those  who,  at  other  hours, 
traverse  the  Green,  have  a  tendency  to  direct  the  thoughts 
of  the  spectator  to  subjects  above  the  common  affairs  of 
life,  and  by  elevating  the  mind  and  tranquillizing  the  feel- 
ings, win  from  the  stranger  who  visits  the  place  a 
tribute  of  praise,  the  source  of  which  may  perhaps  be 
more  creditable  to  himself  than  he  imagines.  Many  trav- 
ellers have  loved  to  recur  to  the  beauties  of  New-Haven, 
and  to  praise  its  neat  mansions,  extensive  and  blooming 
gardens,  level  lawns  and  luxuriant  foliage,  who  knew  not 
that  the  chief  source  of  their  enjoyment,  during  their  stay, 


EN. 

from  view,  where  this  fine 
lat  the  iilen  as  well  as  the 
ely  excluded.     It  is  impos- 
>limpse  of  the  Green,  as  it 
im  some  of  the  most  favour- 
imple,  the  public  or  the  pri- 
fee  House),  without  experi- 
and  most  agreeable  nature. 
}  of  a  venerable  elm  grove 
ass,  about  four  hundred  feet 
ih,  from  right  to  left.     The 
3,  and  falls  upon  a  long  line 
description,  standing  like  a 
losing  only  the  general  pro- 
,  in  different  tastes,  but  at 
rising  to  a  great  height  into 
jted  view  of  the  university, 
ken,  unless,  perhaps,  by  the 
Bring  their  cooling  wares  to 
ice ;  or  by  the  voices  of  the 
sience,  which  stretch  across 
e  colleges,  "  as  plain  as  road 
ore  easy  than  the  steep  of 
>  them  at  first  starting,  in  the 
ipelling  Book. 

ihe  bells,  with  the  signs  of 
!s,  the  stillness  which  reigns 
during  the  college  exercises, 
»f  those  who,  at  other  hours, 
iency  to  direct  the  thoughts 
ibove  the  common  affairs  of 
1  and  tranquillizing  the  feel- 
r  who  visits  the  place  a 
of  which  may  perhaps  be 
m  he  imagines.  Many  trav- 
the  beauties  of  New-Haven, 
ons,  extensive  and  blooming 
uriant  foliage,  who  knew  not 
enjoyment,  during  their  stay, 


RSFINEMENT. 


75 


had  been  derived  from  another  and  a  higher  cause.  I  have 
often  listened  with  pleasure  to  the  encomiums  thus  annually 
poured,  like  a  spontaneous  song,  from  the  hearts  of  many 
refined  strangers  on  the  spot,  because,  while  it  recalls  to  my 
own  mind  agreeable  impressions,  it  informs  me  that  my 
companions  hold  learning  in  becoming  regard,  and  rejoice 
to  see  it  duly  honoured. 

But  in  praising  the  fine  part  of  New-Haven,  I  would  not 
slight  the  remainder  of  the  city.     Many  neat  and  not  a  few- 
elegant  houses  are  seen  in  other  streets,  especially  in  this 
vicinity,  shaded  by  the  rows  of  elms  which  extend  far  in 
every  directitm   along  those   which   here   cross   at   right 
angles.      Withdrawing  northwardly  along  two   of  these, 
to  the  distance  of  about  a  quarter  of  a  mile,  you  enter  the 
beautiful  "Avenue,"  where  are   collected   the   houses  of 
several  of  the  oldest  and  most  eminent  of  the  professors  of 
Yale  College,  with  the  chaste  and  elegant  mansion  of  the 
Poet  Hillhouse  at  the  opposite  extremity,  rising  among  the 
trees  of  a  self-planted  wood,  on  a  gentle  eminence.    Nothing 
could  be  more  pleasing  or  appropriate  than  the  aspect  of 
this  retired  spot,  when  I  proceeded  in  the  twilight  to  visit 
one  of  the  professors ;  and  nothing  more  accordant  with  the 
scene  and  the  vicinity  than  the  intelligent  conversation, 
mingled  with  the  refined  hospitality  and  friendship  shown 
by  such  of  the  neighbours  as  had  assembled,  to  several  lite- 
rary strangers  who  presented  themselves  during  the  evening. 
One  cannot  but  regret,  after  seeing  such  a  society,  that 
its  influence  should  not  be  more  extensively  exerted  to  raise 
the  standard  of  conversation  and  manners  in  other  places. 
No  one  can  doubt  that  there  is  a  large  depository  of  power 
here  which  might,  by  some  means,  be  made  to  operate  upon 
our  country  extensively.    Much  might  be  done  by  a  periodi- 
cal publication,  devoted  not  so  much  to  the  cultivation  of 
the  higher  branches  of  science  and  literature,  with  which 
80  few  have  any  concern,  but  to  the  refinement  of  social 
intercourse,  the  incitement  of  parents  to  give  a  proper  do- 
mestic education  to  their  children,  the  inculcation  of  sound 
principles  on  this  and  many  other  subjects  essential  to  pri- 
vate and  public  prosperity  and  happiness.     The  cause  of 


76 


NEW-HAVBN. 


its  want  is  probably  to  be  attributed  to  the  fact,  that  the 
members  of  this  society  underrate  their  own  powers  and 
opportunities  for  doing  good  in  such  a  manner.  Those  con- 
nected with  the  university  are  generally  much  occupied 
with  business ;  and  there  is  so  much  refinement  around  them 
that  they  do  not,  perhaps,  feel  how  much  it  is  needed  else- 
where. Besides,  they  would  be  ready  to  say  that  Yale 
College,  with  the  ten  large  and  respectable  boarding-schools 
in  the  city,  are  constantly  labouring  to  produce  such  an 
effect.  But  how  slight  yet  how  effectual  a  labour  it  would 
be  to  publish  a  monthly  magazine  here,  whose  influence 
should  be  beneficially  felt  throughout  the  Union,  and  which, 
while  it  might  chastise  the  follies  and  frailties  of  certain  in- 
fluential periodicals  now  existing,  might  condescend  to  in- 
struct a  million  of  our  countrymen  in  the  way  to  social 
refinement,  the  bosom  friend  of  moral  and  religious  improve- 
ment. 

A  society  has  been  formed  in  New-Haven  within  a  few 
months,  for  the  promotion  of  taste  in  civic  architecture,  the 
laying  out  of  grounds,  &c.  A  stranger  would  at  first  be 
disposed  to  wonder  less  that  such  a  subject  should  have  at- 
tracted attention  here,  than  that  there  should  have  been  sup- 
posed to  be  room  for  improvement.  And  yet  it  was,  in  fact» 
perfectly  natural  that  such  a  plan  should  have  been  devised 
in  New-Haven;  because  improvements  are  much  more 
likely  to  progress  than  to  begin.  And  how  important  are 
the  objects  embraced  by  this  society !  Our  best  plans  of 
architecture  in  the  United  Slates  are  notoriously  defective. 
We  have  lived  till  this  time  without  ascertaining  any  prin- 
ciples to  be  observed  in  building  oar  houses,  so  as  to  consult 
the  great  points  that  ought  to  be  regarded.  How  often  do 
we  begin  to  build  without  a  thought  even  of  old  Fuller's 
quaint  remark,  that  light  and  water,  creation's  eldest 
daughters,  should  first  be  sought  in  choosing  a  position ;  and 
after  this,  how  innumerable  are  the  violations  of  common  sense, 
taste,  and  experience  committed  by  every  person  who  con- 
structs a  residence  for  his  family!  In  fantastical  ornaments 
and  preposterous  novelties,  as  well  as  in  fashions  condemned 
by  every  thing  but  habit,  we  often  see  that  obedience  to  ex- 


CN. 


DOMESTIC  ARRANGEMENTS. 


77 


uted  to  the  tact,  that  the 
te  their  own  powers  and 
ch  a  manner.  Those  con- 
generally  much  occupied 
ch  retinement  around  them 
w  much  it  is  needed  else- 
:  ready  to  say  that  Yale 
spectabie  boarding-schools 
ring  to  produce  such  an 
sfTectual  a  labour  it  would 
ne  here,  whose  influence 
lout  the  Union,  and  which, 
and  fraihies  of  certain  in- 
,  might  condescend  to  in- 
nen  in  the  way  to  social 
oral  and  religious  improve- 

New-Haven  within  a  few 
e  in  civic  architecture,  the 
stranger  would  at  first  be 
1  a  subject  should  have  at- 
lere  should  have  been  sup- 
it.    And  yet  it  was,  in  fact,. 

should  have  been  devised 
vements  are  much  more 
.  And  how  important  are 
;iety!     Our  best  plans  of 

I  are  notoriously  defective, 
mut  ascertaining  any  prin- 
mr  houses,  so  as  to  consult 

regarded.  How  often  do 
lught  even  of  old  Fuller's 

water,  creation's  eldest 
in  choosing  a  position ;  and 
violations  of  common  sense, 

by  every  person  who  con- 
\    In  fantastical  ornaments 

II  as  in  fashions  condemned 
n  see  that  obedience  to  ex- 


ample which  ought  to  be  yielded  only  to  pure  taste  and 
sound  judgment.  The  purse-proud  descendant  of  a  venera- 
ble family,  to  obliterate  every  trace  of  an  education  which 
he  chooses  to  despise,  and  with  the  feelings  almost  of  a 
parricide,  levels  the  noble  elms  that  defended  worthier 
generations  from  the  storms;  before  he  lays  the  founda- 
tion of  some  glaring  structure,  which  he  thinks  will  capti- 
vate every  eye.  Some  of  our  countrymen  believe  that  there 
is  no  architectural  taste  independent  of  red,  green,  or  blue 
paint;  while  others,  especially  in  the  capitals,  sleep  content 
(half  a  day's  journey  in  the  air,)  if  they  succeed  in  building 
more  spacious  parlours  than  their  neighbours,  and  in  re- 
moving one  more  convenience  to  make  room  for  a  few  more 
guests  at  an  occasional  winter's  jam. 

Happy  would  it  be,  if  the  society  above  referred  to  could 
teach  us  how  to  consult  our  own  comfort,  and  the  benefit 
of  our  children,  in  the  plan  of  a  house  ;  if  it  could  convince 
some  par  ;jis  ihat  our  dwellings  should  sometimes  be  the 
scenes  of  i  nostentatious,  sincere,  and  Christian  hospitality; 
but  chiefly  planned  and  furnishtd  with  a  serious  regard  to 
its  great  object, — the  training  of  their  children.  There  can 
be  no  fireside  in  a  house  where  every  thing  has  been  sacri- 
ficed, in  the  plan  and  the  furniture,  to  the  hollow  and  ruinous 
ceremonies  of  fashionable  life.  The  fireside  is  of  but  little  im- 
portance, I  know,  in  the  view  of  persons  who  profess  to  live 
only  for  the  present  time  ;  but  this  is  a  subject  which  might 
occupy  the  attention  at  least  of  some  reflecting  persons,  if  it 
were  properly  brought  up  to  their  notice.  How  impossible 
it  is  to  reconcile  the  demands  of  fashion  and  of  duty  on  the 
family  of  one  of  our  wealthy  citizens !  How  much  more 
wise  it  would  be  to  contract  the  walls  and  depress  the 
ceilings  of  our  houses  to  a  reasonable  size,  and  tear  ofl"  from 
the  furniture  of  our  children's  apartments  some  portion  of 
the  silks  and  gildings  with  which  we  early  implant  false 
ideas  of  the  world  and  their  own  importance,  and  bring 
back  every  thing  at  once  to  the  intellectual  and  moral  scale 
on  which  some  of  our  ancestors  ordered  their  household ! 
What  ages,  what  centuries  of  time  would  be  rescued  from 
the  cares  of  spacious  and  gaudy  apartments,  the  conversa- 


■  .■■A-iT,.-Jj;-;  U'Sa^-  ^ 


78 


NEW-HAVEN. 


tions  of  heartless  and  formal  visiters ;  whnt  a  round  of  new 
and  nobler  topics  and  daily  pleasures  might  be  substituted ; 
what  a  revolution  might  be  effected  in  the  occupations  and 
feelings  of  families ;  how  many  a  child  might  be  saved  a 
banishment,  who  is  now  annually  expelled  from  the  parental 
roof,  to  seek  afar  a  guardian  and  instructer,  denied  by  fashion 
at  home ;  how  many  a  fireside  might  be  daily  and  nightly 
gladdened  with  circles  of  well-taught  and  affectionate 
brothers  and  sisters,  instead  of  being  devoted  to  frivolous 
morning  calls,  and  trampled  by  nightly  dancers  ! 

Incontestibly  many  comforts  and  advantages  of  different 
kinds  might  accrue  from  the  improvement  of  architectural 
taste  and  science,  in  our  country  at  large.     A  sightly  man- 
sion may  be  erected  at  less  expense  than  is  often  bestowed 
on  a  pile  of  deformity ;  and  not  only  convenience  but  health 
may  be  secured  by  a  judicious  plan  in  building.    The  plant- 
ing of  trees  on  private  grounds  often  contributes  to  the  grati- 
fication of  neighbours  and  the  beauty  of  a  town ;  and  the 
laying  out  and  decorating  of  public  squares,  although  so 
generally  neglected  among  us,  might  easily  be  rendered 
subservient  to  the  improvement  of  public  taste,  intelligence, 
and  morality.     Whoever  has  been  in  Switzerland  or  other 
foreign  countries,  where  rural  seats  are  provided  at  the  way- 
side, near  fountains,  on  hill  tops,  or  under  the  most  venera- 
ble shades,  for  the  convenience  of  foot-travellers,  must  recall 
with  pleasure  the  agreeable  impressions  they  give  of  the  re- 
finement of  the  inhabitants.     What  a  total  absence  of  all 
such   feelings,  on   the   contrary,   is    caused,  as   we  pass 
along  our  own  roads,  to  see  no  trace  of  any  thing  done  for 
the  benefit  of  a  stranger !    The  road  side  is  often  studiously 
deprived  of  foliage ;  and  it  is  rare  that  so  much  as  a  rock 
can  be  found  proper  to  afford  a  convenient  seat.     On  enter- 
ing our  villages  also,  is  there  any  little  grove,  or  even  a 
single  tree  provided  with  benches,  from  which  one  may 
survey  the  objects  around  him  1     A  trough  may  have  been 
placed  for  the  benefit  of  the  cattle,  to  receive  the  water  of 
a  rill ;  but  why  is  man  considered  as  so  far  beneath  all  no- 
tice ?     The  inn  and  the  drinking  shop  indeed  are  open ;  but 
would  not  their  evil  influence  be  diminished,  if  every  village 


I 


BURYINO-OROVND. 


79 


srs ;  whnt  a  round  of  new 
irea  might  be  substituted ; 
ed  in  the  occupations  and 
\  child  might  be  saved  a 
ixpelied  from  the  parental 
8tru(!ter,  denied  by  fashion 
light  be  daily  and  nightly 
•taught    and    affectionate 
leing  devoted  to  frivolous 
ghtly  dancers ! 
id  advantages  of  different 
irovement  of  architectural 
at  large.     A  sightly  man- 
ise  than  is  often  bestowed 
ily  convenience  but  health 
,n  in  building.    The  plant- 
en  contributes  to  the  grati- 
sauty  of  a  town ;  and  the 
iblic  squares,  although  so 
might  easily  be  rendered 
r  public  taste,  intelligence, 
3n  in  Switzerland  or  other 
ts  are  provided  at  the  way- 
or  under  the  most  venera- 
'  foot-travellers,  must  recall 
Bssions  they  give  of  the  re- 
lat  a  total  absence  of  all 
,   is   caused,  as   we  pass 
•ace  of  any  thing  done  for 
oad  side  is  often  studiously 
re  that  so  much  as  a  rock 
3nvenient  seat.     On  enter- 
iny  little  grove,  or  even  a 
les,  from  which  one  may 
A  trough  may  have  been 
lie,  to  receive  the  water  of 
d  as  so  far  beneath  all  no- 
shop  indeed  are  open ;  but 
diminished,  if  every  village 


were  provided  with  a  little  shady  green,  furnished  at  least 
with  a  few  seats  in  the  shade,  where  the  youth  and  age  of 
the  place  might  meet  at  sunset  in  the  summer?  With  how 
little  expense  might  the  spot  be  beaulifiud,  and,  if  necessary, 
protected  by  a  keeper !  Winding  paths  are  easily  made ; 
trees  are  easily  planted,  and  will  grow  if  let  alone  ;  flowers 
afford  a  cheap  and  delightful  ornament ;  and  how  easily 
might  tasteful  arbours  or  rotundas  be  supplied  with  a  vase, 
a  bust,  or  even  a  statue,  such  as  native  artists  can  easily 
produce ! 

But  this  fertile  subject  has  led  me  far  beyond  my  in- 
tended limits.  Let  us  turn  to  the  decorated  ground  which 
shows,  alas  !  a  profusion  of  marble  monuments,  a  little  west- 
ward of  the  beautiful  Avenue  of  which  I  have  spoken.  In 
my  view,  the  burying-grouud  of  New-Haven  has  been  too 
much  praised,  as  it  can  lay  no  claims  to  an  equality,  as  a 
mere  object  of  taste,  with  that  great  and  beautiful  depository 
of  the  dead  of  Paris  with  which  it  has  most  frequently  been 
compared.  The  cemetery  of  P^re  la  Chaise  occupies  a 
great  extent  of  irregular  ground,  instead  of  being  a  mere 
plain  of  limited  size ;  and  in  place  of  small  monuments, 
mingled  with  many  upright  slabs,  planted  in  lines  par- 
allel with  the  straight  poplars,  which  imperfectly  shade 
them,  presents  a  long  succession  of  more  costly  and  tower- 
ing obelisks,  pyramids,  and  fabrics  of  different  styles,  half 
surrounded  by  clusters  of  various  trees  and  shrubs,  occupy- 
ing points  favourable  to  effect.  The  paths  wind  over  and 
around  many  a  little  eminence,  sometimes  confining  the 
view  of  the  solitary  visiter  to  objects  close  beside  him,  com- 
pelling liim  to  think  of  some  individual  among  the  multitudes 
of  dead,  and  perhaps  to  read  his  epitaph:  sometimes  afford- 
ing a  distant  view  of  the  metropolis,  and  filling  the  mind 
with  a  solemn  and  instructive  lesson  concerning  the  living. 
This  is  a  brief  picture  of  Pere  la  Chaise,  as  the  cemetery 
is  familiarly  denominated :  that  is,  of  the  belter  ponion  of 
it ;  and  how'ean  a  comparison  be  instituted  between  its  rural 
scenery  and  luxurious  monuments  and  any  thing  we  find 
here  1  Perhaps  ail  the  marble  in  the  whole  buryiiig-ground 
of  New-llaven  would  hardly  be  sufficient  to  construct  some 


80 


NEW-HAVEN. 


single  monumenu  erected  to  Parisians.  But,  for  all  the 
purposes  for  which  a  place  of  inierment  should  be  planned 
and  visited,  that  of  New-Haven  appeared  to  me  as  lar  supe- 
rior to  that  of  Paris  as  I  can  possibly  describe.  One  of  the 
most  splendid  structures  in  the  latter  is  that  of  Abelard  and 
Heloise !  What  man  of  intellect,  not  to  say  of  religion,  or 
even  of  morality,  does  not  feel  insulted  by  such  a  fact?  1 
will  not  speak  of  that  large  portion  of  the  ground  which  is 
dug  over  once  in  a  few  years. 

The  soul  which  "  startles  at  eternity,"  goes  to  the  grave- 
yard to  learn  something  of  the  import  of  so  dread  a  word. 
Trifles,  such  as  wealth,  taste,  learning  (so  called),  honour 
that  cometh  not  from  God,  glory  that  survives  not  death, 
man  knows  too  well  to  be  willing  seriously  to  invesiiga  e 
their  nature.     If  he  endures  them  at  all,  he  seeks  ever  to 
mingle  with  the  crowd  which  proclaims  them  as  worth  more 
than  they  are.     Worldly  men,  therefore,  you  find  not  gomg 
to  the  grave,  to  weep,  or  even  to  meditate  there.    The  place 
then  must  have  a  solemn  sermon  prepared  to  preach  to 
every  visiter,  on  the  end  of  all  things.-of  all  thmgs  but  one. 
It  must  have  thoughts  ready  to  suggest  on  the  imperishable 
nature  of  the  soul,  the  superior  importance  of  every  thing 
that  may  lead  it  to  future  happiness,  and  the  danger  of  for- 
eettincr  its  inestimable  worth  among  tlie  glare  of  the  baubles 
tround  us.     Whatever  there  be,  therefore,  in  a  cemetery, 
which  does  not  tend  to  depreciate  this  world  in  our  esteem, 
and  to  exalt  the  future,  is  out  of  place;  and  whatever  the 
object  be,  it  proclaims  that  the  author  of  it  was  entirely 
ignorant  of  the  task  he  had  undertaken,  and  had  no  mind 
capable  of  comprehending  the  subject. 

While,  therefore,  I  state  a  plain  truth,  that  i..ere  are 
finer  serpentine  walks,  more  costly  and  splendid  monuments 
in  Phre  la  Chaise,  I  insist  that  more  judgment,  far  higher 
taste  has  been  shown  in  the  New-Ha'  en  burying-ground. 
In  my  view  also  the  same  might  be  saul  of  every  village 
burying-ground  in  our  country,  were  it  not  for  the  too 
limited  size  generally  allowed  them,  and  the  too  common 
neglect  with  which  they  are  treated.  I  speak  Irom  a  deep 
sentiment  of  my  heart  when  I  say,  that  a  secure  enclosure, 


;N. 


COLONEL  Trumbull's  paintixos. 


81 


•arisians.  But,  for  all  the 
merment  should  be  planned 
appeared  to  uie  as  far  supe- 
isibly  describe.  One  of  the 
alter  is  that  of  Abelard  and 
ct,  not  to  say  of  religion,  or 
insulted  by  such  a  fact?  I 
tion  of  the  ground  which  is 

eternity,"  goes  to  the  grave- 
3  import  of  so  dread  a  word. 

learning  (so  called),  honour 
ory  that  survives  not  death, 
King  seriously  to  investigate 
liem  at  all,  he  seeks  ever  to 
roclaims  them  as  worth  more 
therefore,  you  find  not  going 
,0  meditate  there.  The  place 
■mon  prepared  to  preach  to 
lings, — of  all  things  but  one. 

suggest  on  the  imperishable 
>r  importance  of  every  thing 
iness,  and  the  danger  of  for- 
fiong  tite  glare  of  the  baubles 
be,  therefore,  in  a  cemetery, 
ate  this  world  in  our  esteem, 

of  place ;  and  whatever  the 
he  author  of  it  was  entirely 
undertaken,  and  had  no  mind 

subject. 

1  plain  truth,  that  there  are 
os'tly  and  splendid  monuments 
It  more  judgment,  far  higher 

New-Ha'cn  burying-ground. 
light  be  said  of  every  village 
ry,  were  it  not  for  the  too 
d  them,  and  the  too  common 
reated.  I  speak  from  a  deep 
I  say,  that  a  secure  enclosure, 


a  few  gravelled  walks,  shaded  by  willows,  enriched  with 
flowering  shrubs,  and  decently  secluded  from  noise  and 
dust,  would  furnish  every  village  with  a  depository  for  the 
dead  more  appropriate,  more  truly  beautiful,  and  for  the 
living  more  instructive,  than  the  boasted  cemetery  of  the 
French  metropolis. 

It  is  difficult  for  me  to  express  all  the  gratification  the 
traveller  experiences   on  entering  the  Franklin  Institute, 
which  is  connected  with  one  of  the  principal  inns  in  New- 
Haven.    Whoever  heard,  in  any  other  city  or  country,  of 
such  a  union  ?     In  a  spacious  wing  of  the  hotel,  over  the 
dining-room,  the  lodger  may  cross  a  passage  and  enter  a 
fine  lecture-room,  furnished  with  seata  for  two  or  three  hun- 
dred people,  with  a  desk  for  a  lecturer,  having  a  neat  labora- 
tory and  apparatus  in  view,  a  niche  for  receivers,  with  a  flue 
to  take  off"  offensive  gases,  a  study  adjoining,  and  a  private 
passage  to  a  fine  mineralogical  cabinet,  occupying  the  third 
story,  to  which  you  are  next  introduced.     This  institution  is 
due  entirely  to  the  uitelligcnce  and  liberality  of  Mr.  Abel 
Brewster,  a  wealthy  mechanic  of  this  city,  who  pltmned  and 
founded  it  at  his  own  expense,  for  the  benefit  of  the  citizens. 
A  course  of  scientific  lectures  is  delivered  every  winter, 
principally  by  the  professors  of  Yale  College,  to  which 
tickets  are  obtained  for  two  dollars.     The  professors  and 
other  literary  gentlemen  of  the  place  afford  it  their  counte- 
nance and  labours ;  and  the  influence  upon  the  inhabitants 
has  been  very  beneficial,  especially  those  who  have  not 
many  other  sources  of  instruction.     Such  an  example,  from 
an  intelligent  and  highly  philanthropic  individual,  should 
provoke  to  imitation  some  of  those  in  other  places  who  pos- 
sess the  power  of  promoting  the  great  interests  of  the  public 
in  a  similar  manner. 

New-Haven  has  been  greatly  enriched  within  a  few 
months  by  the  acquisition  of  some  of  the  invaluable  paint* 
ings  of  Colonel  John  Trumbull,  which  are  now  deposited  in 
a  building  erected  by  subscription  in  the  rear  of  the  College 
Lyceum.  This  edifice  is  itself  worthy  of  particular  atten- 
tion, on  account  of  its  neat  and  correct  architecture,  and  its 
appropriate  plan  for  the  objects  designed.     It  is  notorious 

8 


82 


NEW-IIAVEN. 


that  in  all  the  picture  galleries  of  Europe  there  is  not  one 
in  which  the  proper  arrangements  have  been  made  for  the 
favourable  disposition  of  paintings  and  admission  of  light. 
Numerous  windows,  generally  large,  and  opening  nearly 
from  the  ceiling  to  the  floor,  give  a  multitude  of  cross  lights ; 
or  else  a  portion  of  the  apartment  is  thrown  into  deep 
obscurity.  You  may  walk  through  the  whole  gallery  of  the 
Louvre,  about  one-third  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  not  see  a 
painting  in  the  best  light;  while  in  Italy  the  pictures  in 
private  collections  are  often  hung  upon  hinges,  and  those  of 
the  Vatican,  among  others,  sufler  from  the  evils  above  men- 
tioned. Some  of  the  exhibition-rooms  in  Philadelphia,  New- 
York,  and  perhaps  some  of  our  other  cities,  are  now  more 
judiciously  lighted  from  above.  The  rotunda  of  the  capitol 
is  a  noble  specimen  of  the  same  kind,  reminding  one  of  the 
Pantheon  of  Rome  ;  and  although  constructed  primarily  for 
a  difl'erent  purpose,  affords  one  of  the  finest  galleries  for 
paintings  in  the  world.  After  visiting  the  well-known 
mineralogical  cabinet  of  Yale  College,  I  entered  the  gallery 
>vhere,  under  the  advantage  of  a  light  admitted  from  above, 
are  seen  the  pictures  of  Colonel  Trumbull ;  and  it  is  doubly 
gratifying  to  find  so  many  of  them  deposited  in  a  permanent 
situation,  in  his  native  state,  which  he  has  done  so  much  to 
honour,  and  to  know  that  this  arrangement  has  been  made 
by  the  liberality  of  some  of  his  fellow-citizens. 

Of  the  full  value  of  the  national  paintings  of  this  artist, 
it  will  be  impossible  to  judge  until  time  shall  have  enabled 
the  public  more  justly  to  appreciate  it.  But  how  happy  it  is 
that  an  ofHcer  of  Washington's  family  should  have  been  able 
as  well  as  disposed  to  record  the  principal  events  of  our  re- 
volution in  this  most  interesting  and  instructive  manner,  and 
to  preserve  the  portraits  of  the  most  distinguished  actors. 
While  on  the  spot,  I  could  not  but  wish  that  a  suggestion  I 
heard  made  some  months  since  might  ere  long  be  carried 
into  effect,  viz.  that  lectures  should  be  delivered,  to  the  stu- 
dents and  others,  on  these  pictures,  embracing  those  instruct- 
ive historical  and  biographical  details  in  which  our  revolu- 
tionary period  so  greatly  abounded,  and  in  which  our  youth 
ought  to  be  frequently  and  familiarly  schooled. 


Iw 

Hous( 
furtive 
chasei 
appea 
of  tasi 
have  ( 
Th 
of  af 

StUCCf 

appeu 

stone. 

white 

Aprof 

introd 

here 

utterl; 

taste, 

its  kr 

whicl 

Bu 

Let  u 

on  a 

try. 

than 

other 

princ 

respe 

princ 

else, 

mast( 

ancie 

write 

butb 

like  1 

or  t( 

Apol 

have 

days 


kVEN. 


TRUE  AMERICAN*  TA8TE. 


88 


es  of  Europe  there  is  not  one 
enis  liave  been  made  for  the 
ings  and  admission  of  light, 
y  large,  and  opening  nearly 
^e  a  multitude  of  cross  lights ; 
irtment  is  thrown  into  deep 
ough  the  whole  gallery  of  the 
mile  in  length,  and  not  see  a 
hile  in  Italy  the  pictures  in 
ing  upon  hinges,  and  those  of 
I'er  from  the  evils  above  men* 
i-rooms  in  Philadelphia,  New- 
ir  other  cities,  are  now  more 
.  The  rotunda  of  the  capitol 
le  kind,  reminding  one  of  the 
tugh  constructed  primarily  for 
me  of  the  finest  galleries  for 
ter  visiting  the  well-known 
College,  I  entered  the  gallery 
r  a  light  admitted  from  above, 
el  Trumbull ;  and  it  is  doubly 
hem  deposited  in  a  permanent 
hich  he  has  done  so  much  to 
arrangement  has  been  made 
s  fellow-citizens, 
ional  paintings  of  this  artist, 
until  time  shall  have  enabled 
iciate  it.  But  how  happy  it  is 
family  should  have  been  able 
the  principal  events  of  our  re- 
g  and  instructive  manner,  and 
le  most  distinguished  actors. 
I  but  wish  that  a  suggestion  I 
ce  might  ere  long  be  carried 
[lould  be  delivered,  to  the  stu- 
ires,  embracing  those  instruct* 
details  in  which  our  revolu- 
nded,  and  in  which  our  youth 
liliarly  schooled. 


1  was  exceedingly  mortified,  however,  to  find  in  the  State 
House,  a  copy  of  Trumbull's  Declaration  of  Independence, 
furtively  made  by  a  raw  young  artist,  whicii  lias  been  pur- 
chased by  the  Legislature,  and  hung  up  in  the  hall.  This 
appeared  to  mc  as  discreditable  a  reflection  upon  the  want 
of  taste  and  the  abundance  of  parsimony  as  that  body  could 
have  cast  upon  itself. 

The  State  House  is  a  beautiful  edifice,  built  on  the  model 
of  a  fine  Grecian  temple,  in  pure  taste,  and  is  handsomely 
stuccoed  in  imitation  of  granite.  These  perishable  materials 
appear  ill  when  betrayed  under  the  thin  disguise  of  mock 
stone.  The  Gothic  Churcli  near  by  already  shows  the 
white  pine  under  the  glazing  of  brown  paint  and  sand. 
Apropos,  speaking  of  the  Gothic  style, — Why  should  it  be 
introduced  into  America  T  There  is  not  a  feature  in  society 
here  which  bears  the  slightest  aflinity  with  it;  and  so 
utterly  opposed  is  it  to  the  principles  of  pure  and  refined 
taste,  that  nothing  makes  it  at  all  tolerable  in  Europe,  except 
its  known  connexion  with  the  days  of  semi-barbarism  in 
which  it  flourished. 

But  it  is  more  agreeable  to  approve  than  to  condemn. 
Let  us  take  this  favourable  opportunity  to  reflect  a  moment 
on  a  national  taste  in  the  fine  arts,  appropriate  to  our  coun- 
try. In  architecture  it  is  much  easier  to  say  what  does  not 
than  what  does  suit  our  circumstances.  I  will  leave  that  to 
others  for  the  present,  hoping  they  may  apply  to  it  those 
principles  of  common  sense  which  I  wish  to  suggest  in 
respect  to  a  sister  art.  In  painting,  we  ought  to  fix  our 
principles  distinctly.  We  ought  not  in  this  or  any  thing 
else,  servilely  to  follow  the  example  of  any,  even  the 
masters  of  the  art.  We  are  to  imitate  the  style  of  the  best 
ancient  orators,  poets,  and  historians,  when  we  speak  and 
write;  but  how?  By  using  exactly  their  words?  No; 
but  by  saying  what  they  would  have  .aid  if  they  had  been 
like  us,  and  in  our  places.  So,  when  we  come  to  painting 
or  to  sculpture,  we  should  not  merely  copy  Jupiters,  or 
ApoUos,  or  Laocoons.  Apelles  and  Praxiteles  would  not 
have  produced  such  personages  if  they  had  flourished  in  our 
days  in  the  Western  Continent     Long  were  the  arts  smoth- 


84 


KEW-IIAVEN. 


cred  in  Europe  under  the  weight  of  ancient  example ;  and 
when  West  roused  up  from  tiie  rcvery  enough  to  tlirow  ofl 
the  drapery  of  antiquity,  they  breathed  more  freely.  But 
West  went  not  into  tlie  proper  American  domain.  He  was 
indeed  unfavourably  situattd  to  «lo  so,  for  he  was  in  Europe. 
We  find  him  therefore,  wiien  out  of  scripture  and  poetical 
subjects,  commemorating  the  death  of  Wolfe  at  Quebec,  and 
making  his  hero  with  liis  hvst  breath  applaud  a  victory  in 
which  no  principle  was  involved,  and  from  which  flowed  no 
result  of  interest  to  mankind.  The  tale  to  be  told  on  his 
canvass  was  the  old  bald  tale  of  miUtary  adventure:  directed 
by  a  ministry  three  thousand  miles  distant,  with  money 
which  tliey  seem  to  have  expended  chiefly  for  their  own 
credit.  Military  glory  is  the  highest  motive  you  can  attri- 
bute to  any  of  the  personages  of  whom  the  groups  must  be 
formed ;  and  the  whole  work  is  but  the  old  song  of  false 
praise  to  war  and  bloody  victory. 

But  how  different  from  all  this  arc  the  paintings  of 
Trumbull !  How  much  more  appropriate  to  the  principles 
we  profess  !  Each  of  the  personages  presents  an  instruct- 
ive lesson  in  his  history.  Here  is  no  son,  whose  name 
was  inscribed  on  the  army  list  merely  to  secure  him  a  pro- 
fession. The  simple  insignia  of  these  soldiers  were  not 
purchased  with  money,  and  no  accident  or  fatality  brought 
them  together.  The  war  in  which  they  engaged  had  not 
been  waged  for  the  exaltation  of  an  ambitious  general, 
or  to  slake  the  thirst  of  any  tyrant  for  blood ;  and  the 
actors  were  not  the  blind  servants  of  one  whose  com- 
mands might  not  be  questioned.  Each  man  had  inde- 
pendently acted  in  obedience  to  his  own  judgment,  and  in 
accordance  with  his  own  feelings.  His  education  had  been 
such  as  to  strengthen  his  mind,  and  to  cultivate  pure  mo- 
tives ;  and  the  great  proof  of  the  patriotism  of  our  army  was 
shown  by  then-  quietly  disbanding  and  returning  to  their 
homes  when  the  war  had  been  terminated.  Other  troops, 
after  obtaining  victory,  would  have  considered  their  own 
great  object  yet  unaccomplished,  wliile  their  pay  was  whh- 
held ;  and  would  have  been  ready  to  ravage  tlieir  country 
to  reward  or  revenge  themselves.     But  the  men  whom  our 


preat 

atta(;l 

eigne 

pelle 

just  i 

whic 

their 

It 

ciali] 

be  s( 

doub 

Colh 

value 

coun 

fulnc 

The 

difl'e 

culti 

Unic 

stru( 

nent 

and 

inad 

T 

schc 

and 

plea 

ing. 

port 

ther 

do, 

imp 

hon 

gen 

inst 

rate 

aga 

ing. 

to 


AVKN. 

ght  of  ancient  example ;  and 
e  rcvory  enough  to  llirow  ofl" 
Y  breiilheil  more  freely.  But 
r  American  domain.     Ho  was 

0  «lo  so,  for  he  was  in  Europe, 
out  of  scripture  and  poetical 
df.ath  of  Wolfe  at  Quebec,  and 
t  breath  applaud  a  victory  in 
:rd,  and  from  which  flowed  no 

The  talc  to  be  told  on  his 
of  mihtary  adventure :  directed 
id  miles  distant,  with  money 
tpendcd  chiefly  for  their  own 
highest  motive  you  can  attri- 
of  whom  the  groups  must  be 
is  but  the  old  song  of  false 
ory. 

all  this  arc  the  paintings  of 
e  appropriate  to  the  principles 
rsonages  presents  an  instruct- 
Here  is  no  son,  whose  name 
St  merely  to  secure  him  a  pro- 
ia  of  these  soldiers  were  not 
no  accident  or  fatality  brought 

1  which  they  engaged  had  not 
ion  of  an  ambitious  general, 
ly  tyrant  for  blood;  and  the 
servants  of  one  whose  com- 
ioned.  Each  man  had  inde- 
e  to  his  own  judgment,  and  in 
ings.  His  education  had  been 
tiind,  and  to  cultivate  pure  mo- 

ihe  patriotism  of  our  army  was 
landing  and  returning  to  their 
een  terminated.  Otlier  troops, 
hi  liave  considered  their  own 
hed,  while  their  pay  was  whh- 
i  ready  to  ravage  tlieir  country 
ilves.     But  the  men  whom  our 


CAUSES  HF  LANOriSIIINO  COLLKflES. 


8S 


prcat  artist  has  preserved  ou  his  canvass,  ma.ntamed  the 
attachment  ol  children  to  tlu-ir  .ouniry,  and  vohintanly  re- 
signed that  power  by  which  ah.ne  th.y  nu«hl  have  com- 
pelled the  satisfaction  of  their  claims,  alllumuh  they  were 
just  and  undis,.uted.  Posterity  will  have  (he  discrnninatum 
which  we  want,  and  apprcnalc  such  works  accordmg  to 

their  merits. 

It  has  been  lamented  that  some  of  our  states,  and  espe- 
cially such  as  have  contained  the  best  of  our  colleges,  should 
be  so  parsimonious  in  rendering  them  pecuniary  aid.  No 
doubt  a  few  thousands  of  dollars,  il  conferred  upon  Yale 
College  some  years  ago,  would  have  proved  ol  extreme 
value  to  the  iiileiests  of  learning  in  Coimecnicut  and  the 
country.  She  has  had  to  struggle  whh  poverty,  or  her  use- 
fulness, great  as  it  has  been,  might  have  been  doubled. 
The  legislature  of  the  state  has  appeared  unaccountably  m- 
diflerem  to  learning,  while  in  possession  of  means  lor  its 
cultivation,  1  suppose,  superior  to  those  of  any  other  in  the 
Union.  This  I  attribute  to  the  habit  of  receiving  early  in- 
struction in  the  district  scliools  at  the  expense  of  a  perma- 
nent fund ;  to  the  division  which  is  ma.le  between  those  lully 
and  those  partially  educated  ;  and,  perhaps,  above  all,  to  the 
inadequacy  of  common  education. 

The  right  of  every  parent  to  send  his  child  to  a  district 
school  is  considered  as  entire  as  the  claim  to  air  and  water ; 
and  indeed  many  resist  taking  more  instruction  than  they 
please,  as  they  would  object  to  excessive  eating  or  breath- 
ing. The  people  are  not  called  upon  to  providi!  lor  the  sup- 
port of  their  schools,  nor  obliged  at  any  time  to  go  without 
them ;  and  therefore  do  not  often  contemplate,  il  they  ever 
do,  the  real  value  of  regular  education.  Besides,  the  most 
important  part  of  the  instruction  is  often  communicated  at 
home,  and  this  may  be  another  reason  why  there  is  no 
general  disposition  among  the  people  to  be  liberal  to  literary 
institutions.  Practical  knowledge  is  too  generally  under- 
rated  by  men  of  regular  education,  and  this  fosters  jealousy 
against  them,  and  provokes  contempt  for  theoretical  learn- 
ing. Study  and  work  are  so  entirely  separated,  in  short,  as 
to  be  kept  ignorant  of  each  other;  and  there  has  been 

8* 


80 


sAvnnooK  point. 


popiilar  ignorance  ami  jeiilnuHv  enoimh  to  Id  this  chief 
literary  iiiHliiulion  of  the  Hiult;  liiiiLniish  for  many  yrara. 
Yah'  ('ollcia'  lias  recently  rcrciv* d  nl)ove  one  huiidred  thou- 
sand dollars  in  nubscriplions  from  it«  iilutnni  'ind  friends  in 
different  parts  of  the  eountry,  alilioiijih  ahout  an  equal  sum 
has  been  contributed  at  tlie  same  time  for  several  other  insti- 
tutions in  New-Kni{land.  While  these  instances  of  enlight- 
ened liberality  authorize  us  to  iudulRc  hopes  that  learning 
will  bo  supported  in  the  Dnion  by  the  public;  the  past 
warns  us  of  the  danger  which  it  incurs  among  a  people 
educated  on  a  defective  plan,  and  i-laims  the  immediate  im- 
provement of  common  schools  :  even  those  of  Connecticut, 
which  have  been  greatly  overrated. 

Saybrook,  on  tlic  western  side  of  Connecticut  Uiver,  at 
its  mouth,  was  the  first  plac^e  occupied  by  the  English  in 
New-England,  after  leaving  the  coast  of  Massachusetts 
Bay.  After  repeated  solicitations  from  the  Indians,  who 
originally  occupied  the  hanks  of  this  delightful  stream,  and 
had  been  driven  from  the  western  shore  by  the  Mohawks, 
the  governor  of  Plymouth  Colony  sent  Lieutenant  Gardner 
with  a  few  soldiers  to  oe<;upy  this  post,  for  fear  lest  the 
Dutch  should  anticipate  him.  Ho  arrived  only  a  few  hours 
before  a  Dutch  vessel  appeared  from  New-York,  which 
sailed  up  and  founded  a  settlement  at  Hartford,  under  the 
patronage  of  the  Mohawks. 

The  steamboats  stop  at  Saybrook  Point,  which  is  about 
a  mile  from  the  village.  Here  arc  a  few  houses,  several  of 
which  receive  boarders  during  the  summer  season.  1  may 
give  the  results  of  a  morning's  observations,  during  a  walk 
I  took  between  sunrise  and  breakfast  time.  Saybrook  Point 
is  nearly  in  the  form  of  a  circle,  being  a  peninsula,  con- 
nected with  the  mainland  by  a  very  narrow  neck,  over 
which  the  tide  sometimes  flows,  and  having  a  broad  and 
handsome  bay  of  shallow  water  on  each  side.  The  soil  is 
sandy  and  poor,  and  the  elevation  of  the  highest  part,  which 
is  near  tlie  middle,  is  not  above  twenty  feet.  The  remains 
of  the  fort  are  on  a  small  spot  of  ground  at  the  extremity  of 
the  peninsula ;  but  the  site  of  the  first  fort  is  believed  to 
have  been  worn  away  by  the  encroachments  of  the  waves. 


I  four 

castw 

this  ii 

■West( 

have  1 

Tndiai 

to  me 

abund 

Moun 

count! 

bank 

erect£ 

inscri 

standi 

which 

Thes 

ing  to 

the  d( 

Th 
squan 
andO 
than  I 
Than 
buildi 
Court 
yard, 
three 
New- 
in  thii 
well 
childr 

I  hi 
affecti 
refine 
with  I 
appro 
licved 
the  eh 
were 


)INT. 


AN  OLD  matron's  OPINIONS. 


7» 


enoueh  to  let  this  chief 
liiiiL'uish  for  many  yrars. 
(i  iil)ov«'  one  luiiidrrd  lliou- 

I  its  iiliimni  'mil  (ricntis  in 
li(>ii<;h  iihout  an  ciiual  sum 

tiuii^  for  several  otlicr  iiisli- 
!  tlicsn  instances  of  enlight- 
idulRc  liopes  that  learning 

II  by  the   public ;  the  past 
it  incurs  among  a  people 

(1  (^luims  the  immediate  im* 
even  those  of  Connecticut, 
led. 

ie  of  Connecticut  Uiver,  a» 
ccupied  by  the  English  in 
le  coast  of  Massachusetts 
ons  from  the  Indians,  who 
f  this  delightful  stream,  and 
rn  shore  by  the  Mohawks, 
my  sent  Lieutenant  Gardner 
this  post,  for  fear  lest  the 
He  arrived  only  a  few  hours 
cd  from  New-York,  which 
ment  at  Hartford,  under  the 

fbrook  Point,  which  is  about 
arc  a  few  houses,  several  of 
the  summer  season.     1  may 

observations,  during  a  walk 
ikfast  time.  Saybrook  Point 
lie,  being  a  peninsula,  con- 

a  very  narrow  neck,  over 
's,  and  having  a  broad  and 
!r  on  each  side.  The  soil  is 
on  of  the  highest  part,  which 
3  twenty  feet.  The  remains 
of  ground  at  the  extremity  of 

the  first  fort  is  believed  to 
incroachments  of  the  waves. 


I  found  an  old  man  iioeing  corn  on  the  linnk  wliicji  slopes 
eastward  a  little  in  its  rear.  "I  siisppct,"  said  he,  "that 
this  is  the  oldest  field  brtwcen  I'lymciiith  Colony  and  the 
Western  Ocean  ;  for  from  its  situation  this  woidd  naturally 
have  been  ilic  first  spot  the  settlers  would  have  tilled,  as  the 
Indians  kept  them  at  first  closely  confined."  'J'his  appeared 
to  mo  very  probable ;  and  when  I  rellrcted  what  rich  and 
abundant  harvests  are  now  growing  almost  to  the  Kocky 
Mountains,  it  gave  me  a  striking  idea  of  the  progress  of  the 
country  in  two  hundred  years.  On  the  brow  of  the  bleak 
bank  stands  an  ancient  monument,  of  coarse  free-stone, 
erected  to  Lady  Arabella  Fenwick,  which  iias  now  no 
inscription,  and  is  entirely  neglected,  being  barely  kept 
standing  to  comply  witli  the  rerpiisitions  of  the  deed  by 
which  a  large  tract  of  land  on  the  opposite  shore  is  held. 
The  simplicity  and  loneliness  of  this  reliek  are  very  touch- 
ing  to  the  feelings,  when  the  pure  and  exalted  character  of 
the  deceased  is  called  to  mind. 

The  land  on  the  Point  is  laid  out  in  large  fields  and 
squares,  as  it  was  originally  intended  for  a  commercial  city; 
and  Oliver  Cromwell,  with  other  men  then  more  distinguished 
than  himself,  was  once,  it  is  said,  actually  embarked  in  the 
Thames  to  occupy  the  ground.  The  foundation  of  the 
building  which  was  once  Yale  College,  the  cellar  of  the 
Court  House,  and  the  ancient  grave-stones  in  the  burying- 
yard,  ofler  interesting  objects  to  the  antiquary.  Two  or 
three  old  houses  are  among  the  few  specimens  of  early 
New-England  architecture,  now  observed  by  the  traveller 
in  this  state.  Captain  Doly's  house  and  his  portrait,  as 
well  as  his  grave  and  those  of  his  contemporaries  and 
children,  i  visited. 

I  had  some  conversation  with  an  old  matron,  whose  un- 
aflfected  dignity,  obliging  manners,  intelligent  remarks,  and 
refined  language  reminded  me  of  many  of  those  I  had  viewed 
with  such  respect  and  attachment  in  my  childhood.  She 
approved  of  my  early  rising  and  rational  curiosity,  and  be- 
lieved it  would  be  better  if  we  were  more  acquainted  with 
the  character  of  our  ancestors  and  those  difficult  times  which 
were  formerly  experienced  here.     There  h«d  been  a  mush- 


88 


A  CONNECTICUT  VILLAGE. 


room  race,  which  had  risen  after  the  Revolutionary  War, 
very  unlike  their  fathers,  caring  nothing  for  them,  and  want- 
ing only  to  amass  money;  but  she  believed  times  were 
better  now,  and  it  had  become  quite  tlie  Aishion  to  search 
for  amiquities.  It  seemed  to  her  like  the  Book  ol  the  Law, 
which  was  lost  a  long  time,  but  was  found  m  the  temple  in 
the  time  of  Josiah. 


CHAPTER  XL 

A  Connecticut  Clergyman's  Family-Wood-hauling-Middletown. 

In  my  journey  up  the  river  I  deviated  from  my  course  to 
visit  one  of  the  favourite  scenes  of  my  childhood.     It  was 
one  of  the  river  towns,  so  like  the  others  iv.  its  general  traits, 
that  to  describe  it  is  in  some  sense  to  describe  all  which 
.eiain  their  ancient  agricultural  character.     I  spent  parts  of 
two  years  there  while  a  boy,  in  the  family  of  the  old  clergy- 
man of  the  place ;  and  thus  became  instructed  m  the  state 
of  society,  as  an  apprentice  learns  his  master's  trade,  viz. 
by  assisting  to  carry  it  on.     The  good  old  man,  who  had 
lived  many  years  on  a  glebe  of  four  acres  and  four  hundred 
dollars  a  year,  w,  s  considered  by  his  neighbours  entitled  by 
his  character  to  the  liberal  pay  of  one  dollar  a  week  for 
boarding,  lodging,  and  instructing  a  boy  like  me ;  and  in  the 
plain  hospitality  which  I  received  at  their  firesides,  I  read  at 
once  their  love  for  him,  and  their  respect  for  the  learning 
which  I  was  supposed  to  be  seeking.     Some  of  these  men, 
while  they  worked  the  farms  of  their  ancestors,  occupied 
dwellings  which  had  sheltered  several  generations ;  or  at 
least  reposed  under  aged  elms  where  their  grandfathers  had 
pursued  their  boyish  sports.     I  soon  began  to  share  the 
ieeluigs  of  the  family,  where  every  wandering  stranger  was 
sure  of  finding  friends ;  and  through  the  frequent  calls  of 
connexions  and  brother-clergymen,  as  well  as  by  visits  m 


fT  VILLAGE. 

fter  the  Revolutionary  War, 
;  nothing  for  them,  and  want- 
at  she  believed  times  were 
quite  tlie  Aishion  to  search 
er  like  the  Book  of  the  Law, 
It  was  found  in  the  temple  in 


ER  XI. 

y—Wood-hauling— Middletown. 

I  deviated  from  my  course  to 
les  of  my  childhood.     It  was 
the  others  iv.  its  general  traits, 
}  sense  to  describe  all  which 
1  character.     I  spent  parts  of 
I  the  family  of  the  old  clergy- 
icame  instructed  in  the  state 
earns  his  master's  trade,  viz. 
The  good  old  man,  who  h.id 
if  four  acres  and  four  hundred 
by  his  neighbours  entitled  by 
ay  of  one  dollar  a  week  for 
ting  a  boy  like  me ;  and  in  the 
ved  Ht  their  firesides,  I  read  at 
their  respect  for  the  learning 
eeking.     Some  of  these  men, 
I  of  their  ancestors,  occupied 
d  several  generations ;  or  at 
3  where  their  grandfathers  had 
I  soon  began  to  share  the 
every  wandering  stranger  was 
through  the  frequent  calls  of 
ymen,  as  well  as  by  visits  in 


AN  OLD  CLERGYMAN  S  FAMILY. 


89 


the  neighbourhood  and  the  parish,  I  became  acquainted  with 
men,  congregations,  and  things  far  and  near. 

If  it  be  useful  to  a  mind  to  contemplate  the  operations  of 
an  important  and  valuable  machine,  must  it  not  be  an  im- 
proving task  to  observe  the  operations  of  such  a  society  ?  I 
cannot  tell  exactly  how  much  I  was  the  better  for  the  know- 
ledge I  acquired  there  of  the  piety  of  iEneas,  or  the  purity 
of  the  hopthen  gods ;  but  I  am  sure  that  the  excellent  and 
exalted  characters  I  there  saw  displayed,  whh  the  daily 
exhibition  of  doing  good,  have  had  a  perceptible  inlluence 
on  my  life,  and  ought  to  have  had  much  more.  The  old 
gentleman,  besides  his  pastoral  duties,  was  chief  counsellor 
to  old  and  young  in  cases  of  doubt  and  difficulty,  patron- 
general  of  learning,  and  one  with  whom  those  minds  which 
wandered  farthest  beyond  the  village  sphere  were  fond  of 
comparing  themselves.  By  his  kitchen  fire,  where  so  many 
of  the  families  of  New-England  draw  their  circles  in  the 
winter  evenings,  I  have  heard  principles  avowed,  and 
opinions  familiarly  expressed,  concerning  which  I  have 
since  seen  the  nations  of  Europe  at  war.  The  very  bare- 
footed boy  who  spent  a  week  in  the  house,  while  his  poor 
wayworn  mother  was  accommodated  in  the  '  linter  room'  for 
the  love  of  him  whose  heart-broken  disciple  she  was,  poor 
little  George  went  off  engrafted  with  views  of  the  rights  and 
duties  of  man,  which  certain  European  sovereigns  have  re- 
fused to  learn  from  exile  or  the  sword.  He  encouraged 
me  at  my  evening  lesson  by  reminding  me  that  there  was 
no  impediment  betwet>;i  any  boy  and  the  highest  station  of 
usefulness  in  the  country  ■  and  when  we  closed  with  an  hour 
spent  in  shelling  corn,  he  would  sometimes  talk  of  one  of 
my  grandfathers  who  had  loved  his  books  in  his  youth,  or 
tell  tales  of  his  missionary  adventures  among  the  Delaware 
Indians. 

The  means  of  obtaining  an  education  for  the  desk  in  past 
days  were  confined,  as  is  well  known,  to  the  private  in- 
structions of  clergymen,  and  none  of  those  seminaries  had 
yet  an  existence  which  have  since  done  so  much  for  the 
church,  and  are  doing  much  more.  Our  New-England 
clergymen  carefully  transmitted  their  learning  from  genera- 


90 


A  CONNECTICVT  VILLAGE. 


tion  to  generation,  under  the  disadvantages  to  which  they 
were  subjected,  by  their  private  instructions  to  young  men 
preparing  for  their  profession ;  and  although  their  time  was 
much  engrossed  with  parochial  labours,  the  students  were 
not  as  mucli  as  now  withdrawn  from  the  world,  but  more 
trained  to  the  practice  of  a  science  in  which  theoretical 
learning  alone  is  of  little  direct  avail  in  society.     For  my 
own  part,  I  felt  that  the  Christian  religion  was  of  real 
value,  when  I,  though  a  child,  accompanied  the  venerable 
pastor  in  some  of  his  visits  to  the  people  of  his  cliarge. 
Two  of  these  occasions  have  often  since  presented  them- 
selves to  my  memory  in  a  powerful  contrast.     One  of  these 
was  the  funeral  of  a  young  man,  who  had  suddenly  died  on 
the  eve  of  remarriage.     The  mother  stood  among  the  mourn- 
ful throng,  with  a  heavenly  calmness  upon  her  face,  and 
seemed  to  drink  in  the  consolations  of  the  Scriptures  offered 
by  my  aged  companion,  like  one  thirsty  for  the  water  of 
life.     In  the  other  case,  I  found  a  half-heathen  family  at 
their  miserable  meal,  on  the  outskirts  of  the  parish,  with 
poverty  and  ignorance  written  on  every  countenance,  no 
Bible  in  the  house,  and  apparently  unacquainted  with  the 
bearing  of  its  doctrines  on  that  spirit  which  had  recently  in- 
habited the  lifeless  body  now  ready  for  the  grave  in  one 
comer  of  the  room.    Never  before  nor  since  have  I  witnessed 
equal  degradation  in  a  family  in  that  part  of  our  country; 
and  the  old  pastor  seemed  as  much  astonished  as  myself, 
for  tiiey  had  kept  aloof  from  all  the  blessings  of  civilization 
around  them,  and  been  as  mucli  unknown  as  unknowing. 
From  what  I  heard  of  the  conversation  which  took  place,  I 
received  the  impression  that  they  had  come  some  months 
before  from  another  state,  where  ''    '  then  enjoyed  the  bene- 
fits of  intellectual  or  religious  instruction ;  and  altliough  I 
spoke  not  a  word  on  the  subject,  and  probably  my  reflec- 
tions were  not  conjectured  even  by  my  companion,  with  all 
his  fondness  for  youth,  and  his  penetration,  1  believe  I  left 
the  house  a  decided,  though  a  young  champion  for  knowledge 
and  refinement. 

Wood-hauling  is  a  word  which  requires  explanation  to 
such  as  have  not  been  intimately  acquainted  with  the  country 


VILLAGE. 


A  WOOD-MAULINO. 


01 


advantages  to  which  they 
instructions  to  young  men 
nd  although  their  time  was 
abours,  the  students  were 
1  from  the  world,  but  more 
lence  in  which  theoretical 
,  avail  in  society.     For  ray 
itian  religion  was  of  real 
iccompauied  the  venerable 
the  people  of  his  cliarge. 
iften  since  presented  them- 
•ful  contrast.     One  of  these 
,  who  had  suddenly  died  on 
\er  stood  among  the  raourn- 
mness  upon  her  face,  and 
)ns  of  the  Scriptures  offered 
le  thirsty  for  the  water  of 
nd  a  half-heathen  family  at 
jtskirts  of  the  parish,  with 

on  every  countenance,  no 
ntly  unacquainted  with  the 
ipirit  which  had  recently  in- 
ready  for  the  grave  in  one 
re  nor  since  have  I  witnessed 
in  that  part  of  our  country ; 

much  astonished  as  myself, 
[  the  blessings  of  civilization 
ch  unknown  as  unknowing, 
ersation  which  took  place,  I 
hey  had  come  some  months 
B  ^   ■'  then  enjoyed  the  bene- 

instruction ;  and  although  I 
ject,  and  probably  my  reflec- 
1  by  my  companion,  with  all 
3  penetration,  1  believe  I  left 
aung  champion  for  knowledge 

hich  requires  explanation  to 
f  acquainted  with  the  countiy 


villages  in  New-England.  It  is  the  name  of  an  annual 
holyday,  when  the  parishioners  make  their  contributions  of 
wood  to  their  pastor,  and  partake  of  refreshment  or  a  regu- 
lar dinner  at  his  house. 

In  the  visits  I  paid  with  my  venerable  instructer  to  many 
a  habitation  far  and  near,  to  give  invitations  for  this  muster 
of  the  parish,  I  had  glimpses  of  life  among  the  farmers,  and 
even  tlie  lawyers'  and  physicians'  households,  and  thought 
I  grew  rich  in  friends  faster  than  ever  before.  M.  I.evas- 
seur,  while  in  General  Lafayette's  train,  had  not  more  reason 
to  be  pleased  with  the  Americans,  than  I  had  to  love  the 
people  of  the  parish  during  this  tour  of  visitation.  All  the 
overflowings  of  their  affection  towards  the  good  old  man 
they  bestowed  upon  me ;  and  many  a  respectful  courtesy  I 
saw  made  by  dignified  frames  which  I  had  seen  before  only 
moving  to  the  house  of  God,  and  which  I  had  supposed  to  be 
thus  perpendicular  the  year  round.  The  farmers'  wives 
patted  my  head,  and  stooping  down,  smiled  in  my  face. 
The  girls  brought  mc  nut-cakes,  and  the  boys  chestnuts  and 
apples ;  while  the  old  dog  or  cat  was  driven  out  of  the 
warm  cliimney-corner,  and  I  was  placed  on  a  block  to 
warm  my  little  toes  and  fingers.  I  had  not  supposed  there 
were  as  many  dried  pumpkins  and  sausages  in  the  world 
as  I  saw  hanging  from  the  kitchen-walls ;  and  as  for  cows 
and  beehives,  milk  and  honey,  I  thought  of  the  land  of  Ca- 
naan. To  hear  such  cheerful,  laborious,  intelligent  people 
talk  about  the  joys  of  religion  and  the  prospects  of  heaven, 
made  me  love  to  sit  on  their  settle-benches  an '  walk  on 
their  sanded  floors.  Families  in  affliction,  and  those  in 
poverty  were  visited,  encouraged,  or  prayed  with,  and  left 
without  a  hint  at  any  inappropriate  subject ;  but  where  good 
mannc-  and  good  memory  were  not  found  together,  an 
invitation  was  elsewhere  given  by  the  pastor  to  the  wood- 
hauling  next  Thursday,  and  every  face  brightened  at  the 
wcid. 

Thursday  came  at  the  parsonage,  and  I  helped  to  twist 
tow  strings  to  roast  the  beef  and  spareribs,  while  all  the 
tables  were  set  in  rows  ;  loaves  of  bread  were  cut  so  as  to 
appear  yet  whole ;  the  great  gate,  like  those  fickle  peo- 


92 


A  CONNECTICUT  VILLAGE. 


pie  whose  similitude  it  is,  after  having  been  for  a  time 
close  shut,  was  swung  wide  open;  and  the  farmers  and 
farmers'  boys  hurried  off  to  the  woods  with  their  horse 
sleds.  By-and-by  tlicy  began  to  come  in,  rivalling  each 
other  in  the  size  of  their  loads,  the  straightness  and  quality 
of  their  wood,  their  expedition  in  cutting  it,  their  dexterity  in 
driving  up  and  unloading  it.  Sleighs  came  in  with  bags  of 
wheat  and  rye  or  Indian  meal,  which  the  miller  had  to 
grind  and  toll  for  us  through  the  winter ;  and  butter,  eggs, 
cheese,  bacon,  heads  of  fine  flax  and  hanks  of  yarn  were 
handed  in  and  deposited  in  cellars  and  cupboards,  with  ad- 
miration at  the  generosity  of  friends  far  and  near.  Twenty 
men,  old  and  respectable  enough  for  deacons,  were  soon 
assembled ;  while  there  were  others  in  the  prime  of  life, 
enough  to  have  made  one  of  Colonel  Warner's  companies 
at  the  battle  of  Bennington.  Ah  !  how  many  of  those  iron- 
bound  frames  have  ere  tliis  been  shattered  by  death,  as  the 
finest  trees  of  the  forest  were  that  day  levelled  and  riven  by 
their  hands ! 

liong  Tom  Hewitt  came  headlong  down  Hewitt's  Hill, 
with  his  horses'  tails  sweeping  the  snow,  and  pulling  the 
handsomest  load  of  white  ash  that  was  hauled  that  winter. 
There  he  had  lived,  driving  such  horses,  and  burnhig  such 
wood,  like  his  fathers  before  him,  with  little  notice  from  the 
world :  one  of  the  shoots  from  a  stump  of  an  old  family  which 
dated  far  back  towards  the  first  settlement  of  the  township. 
He  looked  as  wild  as  any  of  the  Indians  his  ancestors  were 
reported  to  have  out-ambushed  and  outrun ;  but  there  was 
nothing  else  savage  or  active  about  him.    The  uplands  pro- 
duced more  grass  than  the  catde  or  sheep  could  eat,  and 
they  multiplied  and  fattened  even  faster  than  the  Hewitts 
who  fed  and  slaughtered  them ;  and  this  was  the  simple 
secret  of  their  being  all  men  "  to  do  in  the  world."    He  had 
more  respectability  than  his  apathy  deserved,  and  more  in- 
fluence than  he  ever  exercised.     His  children  were  born  to 
ignorance  and  plenty  of  bread  and  milk.     They  went  to 
pasture  in  the  summer,  and  ate  hasty-pudding  and  great 
sweet  apples  all  winter.     They  never  ran  away  and  never 
died.     Their  feet  were  too  heavy  for  the  former,  and  the 


VILLAGE. 

r  having  been  for  a  time 
len;  and  the  farmers  and 
e  woods  with  their  horse 

0  come  in,  rivalling  each 
lie  straightness  and  quality 
culling  it,  their  dexterity  in 
iighs  came  in  with  bags  of 
,  which  the  miller  had  to 
!  winter  ;  and  butter,  eggs, 
X  and  hanks  of  yarn  were 
rs  and  cupboards,  with  ad- 
ids  far  and  near.  Twenty 
;h  for  deacons,  were  soon 
thers  in  tiie  prime  of  life, 
olonel  Warner's  companies 
I !  how  many  of  those  iron- 
shattered  by  death,  as  the 

It  day  levelled  and  riven  by 

.dlong  down  Hewitt's  Hill, 
ihe  snow,  and  pulling  the 
lat  was  hauled  that  winter. 
hi  horses,  and  burnnig  such 
I,  with  little  notice  from  the 
itump  of  an  old  family  which 
settlement  of  the  township. 
Indians  his  ancestois  were 
md  outrun ;  but  there  was 
loul  him.  The  uplands  pro- 
Itle  or  sheep  could  eat,  and 
en  faster  than  the  Hewitts 
I ;  and  this  was  the  simple 
3  do  in  the  world."  He  had 
ithy  deserved,  and  more  in- 
His  children  were  born  to 

1  and  milk.  They  went  to 
le  hasty-pudding  and  great 
I  never  ran  away  and  never 
avy  for  the  former,  and  the 


A  WESTERN  SETTLER. 


93 


air  was  too  pure  for  the  latter.    Because  Hewitt's  ridge  was 
the  highest  ground  in  that  region,  they  seemed  to  think  there 
was  nothing  above  them  worth  grasping  after.     They  bore 
the  reproach  of  ignorance  from  geiieration  to  generation, 
because,  as  the  expression  was,  their  family  was  of  poor 
blood  enough :  want  of  education  being  hereditary  among 
them,  which  is  next  to  downright  vice  in  public  estimation. 
I  am  not  using  language  here  in  its  European  sense ;  for 
reading,  writing,  and  ciphering  are  not  here  called  educa- 
tion.    The  Hewitts  went  to  the  district  school  every  winter, 
and  the  teachers  were  boarded  and  respectfully  treated  in 
their  regular  turns  at  their  houses ;  but  none  of  them  got 
that  acquaintance  with  the  world,  or  what  it  contains,  which 
so  often  enlivened  their  neighbours'  conversation,  had  not  a 
map  or  a  library  to  show,  nor  any  eminent  namesake  to 
boast  of,  and,  to  crown  all,  were  not  ashamed  of  their  degra- 
dation.    When  therefore  Tom  had  unloaded  his  wood,  his 
next  and  only  thought  was  that  it  must  be  near  dinner- 
time. 

Charley  Crawley  was  announced  as  being  on  his  way  up 
the  plain.  Some  pretended  to  recognise  him  by  his  sorrow- 
ful long  under-jaw ;  but  they  in  fact  distinguished  the  un- 
painted  dash-board  of  his  pung,  which  had  been  broken  the 
week  before  by  his  wild  son  Josh  in  a  high  gale,  and  after- 
ward mended  by  him  in  a  low  one.  The  old  horse,  which 
was  as  calm  as  a  wooden  clock,  with  the  old  man  to  balance 
his  notions,  had  been  a  wild  fury  on  the  night  of  the  sleigh- 
ride,  when  she  set  off  in  the  moonlight  like  a  watch  with  a 
broken  hair-spring,  at  a  rate  never  designed  for  him,  and 
soon  ran  out  his  career.  What  Charley  had  in  his  pung  he 
was  slow  in  exhibiting,  so  that  the  spectators  had  begun  to 
tire  at  their  posts,  when  old  Captain  John,  a  retired  sailor, 
came  up,  heralded  by  his  own  stentorian  voice.  His  knotty 
whip  made  many  short  fashionable  calls  on  his  blind  horse, 
which  was  proof  against  such  attacks,  as  much  as  the  sculls 
of  the  Hewhls  against  the  wit  of  the  master. 

The  out-door  ceremonies  were  almost  completed,  when 
two  lines  had  been  formed  by  the  loads  of  fine  wood  thrown 
dex     Jusly  off  the  sleds  to  the  right  and  left,  almost  the 

9 


9i 


MIDDLETOWN. 


whole  length  of  the  yard.  The  place  of  honour,  that  is  the 
vacant  spot  at  the  end  of  this  avenue,  alone  remained  to  be 
occupied,  having  been,  with  one  consent,  left  for  Bill  Peters, 
the  most  athletic  man  in  the  town.  He  soon  came  from  the 
farthest  wood-lot,  and  with  the  largest  load,  and  with  a 
rapidity  and  skill  which  excited  general  admiration,  emptied 
his  sled  in  the  very  spot  designed,  without  any  apparent 
exertion ;  and  in  a  moment  more,  had  disposed  of  his  team, 
stamped  the  snow  from  his  boots,  and  had  taken  his  seat 
amid  the  whole  party  at  the  table,  where  a  scene  of  honest 
hilarity  occurred  which  I  shall  not  attempt  to  describe. 

Returning  to  Middletown — the  approach  to  that  city  is 
beautiful  from  almost  every  quarter.  The  river  spreads  out 
in  the  form  of  a  lake,  and  has  the  aspect,  from  several 
points,  of  being  entirely  enclosed  by  the  green  and  culti* 
vated  hills  around  it. 

In  Middletown  are  several  neat  and  even  elegant  private 
houses.  The  view  commanded  by  the  eminence  on  which 
the  Wesleyan  College  stands,  though  inferior  in  extent  to 
that  from  a  hill  in  the  rear,  is  varied  and  rich  in  an  extreme. 
The  fine  bend  of  the  river  just  below,  with  all  that  art  and 
nature  have  done  for  its  banks,  here  presents  itself  with 
great  effect.  Various  manufactures  are  carried  on  with 
success,  as  the  small  tributaries  of  the  Connecticut  furnish 
much  water-power,  but  no  associations  exist  for  the  literary 
improvement  of  the  people,  with  the  exception  of  a  small 
social  library,  founded  before  the  Revolution.  This  is 
owing,  in  a  great  measure,  to  the  emigration  of  a 
large  proportion  of  the  young  men  to  commercial  cities. 
The  people  of  this  place  have  had  their  full  share  in  form* 
ing  new  settlements  at  different  periods,  some  near  and 
some  far  distant.  Mr.  White,  the  first  settler  of  that  part  of 
the  State  of  New- York  long  known  by  the  general  name  of 
Whitestown,  and  now  embracing  several  counties,  went  from 
this  place  in  17 — ,  with  his  axe  only,  and  began  with  his 
owTi  unassisted  strength  to  clear  a  forest,  which  has  now 
given  room  to  a  hundred  thousand  inhabitants.  Human 
ingenuity  and  enterprise  will  be  exerted  where  and  when- 
ever sufficient  encouragement  is  offered.     While  many 


GERMAN  SETTLERS. 


95 


ace  of  honour,  that  is  the 
ue,  alone  remained  to  be 
isent,  left  for  Bill  Peters, 
He  soon  came  from  the 
argest  load,  and  with  a 
leral  admiration,  emptied 
d,  without  any  apparent 
dad  disposed  of  his  team, 
,  and  had  taken  his  seat 
where  a  scene  of  honest 
;  attempt  to  describe, 
approach  to  that  city  is 
r.  The  river  spreads  out 
,he  aspect,  from  several 
by  the  green  and  culti* 

and  even  elegant  private 
y  the  eminence  on  which 
igh  inferior  in  extent  to 
d  and  rich  in  an  extreme, 
low,  with  all  that  art  and 
here  presents  itself  with 
res  are  carried  on  with 
f  the  Connecticut  furnish 
;ions  exist  for  the  literary 
he  exception  of  a  small 
le  Revolution.  This  is 
.o  the  emigration  of  a 
en  to  commercial  cities. 
1  their  full  share  in  form' 
periods,  some  near  and 
first  settler  of  that  part  of 
n  by  the  general  name  of 
sveral  counties,  went  from 
only,  and  began  with  his 
a  forest,  which  has  now 
ind  inhabitants.  Human 
exerted  where  and  when- 
offered.      While  many 


have  felt  the  impulse  which  drove  them  to  a  new  country 
far  away,  some  have  been  attracted  by  the  facdities  for 
manufacturing  afforded  by  the  streams,  and  others  have 
been  persevering  in  digging  freestone  from  the  valuable 
quarries  on  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Connecticut. 

Among  the  spots  of  local  interest  may  be  mentioned  three 
beautiful  little  cascades,  all  within  about  four  miles  of  the  city, 
one  of  them  in  Chatham,  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river. 
Laurel  Grove  lies  on  the  way  to  another,  and  shades  one  of 
the  most  beautiful  winding  wood-land  roads  in  New-England ; 
in  the  spring  enriched  for  a  mile  or  more  with  the  utmost 
profusion  of  those  shrubs  from  which  it  has  Us  name,  in  full 
bloom.     The  stream  which  forms  the  Chatham  cascade 
proceeds  from  a  pond  at  the  elevated  base  of  a  rude  bluff 
called  Rattlesnake  Hill,  in  which  is  a  cobalt  mine.     It  has 
not  proceeded  above  two  hundred  yards  when  it  leaps  from 
a  rock,  and  falls  into  a  wild  little  basin :  a  delightful  retreat 
from  the  heat  of  the  sun.     The  pond  is  one  of  the  head, 
waters  of  Salmon  River,  or  the  Moodus.     That  stream, 
after  rushing  through  many  romantic  valleys,  empties  mto 
the  Connecticut,  behind  a  point  formed  by  a  sweet  little 
meadow  which  I  had  seen  before.     The  country  through 
which  it  passes  was  the  residence  of  the  Moodus  Indiaiis, 
who  had  the    reputation   among  other    tribes    of   being 
sorcerers;    and  some  traditions  of  them  are  still  found 
among  the  white  people,  to  which  Brainerd's  poetry  refers. 
A  small  cluster  of  houses  on  the  road  near  the  pond  have 
something  a  little  foreign  in  their  appearance  ;  and  the  names 
and  the  dialect  of  some  of  their  inhabitants  excite  surprise 
in  the  stranger,  who  knows  how  homogeneous  the  popula- 
tion  of  New-England  towns  always  is.     They  are  the  de- 
scendants  of  several  German  families,  brought  here  some 
years  ago  to  work  the  cobalt  mine,  which  was  soon  found 
too  unproductive  to  pay  the  expenses.     There  are  other 
minerals  in  the  neighbourhood,  particularly  in  a  lead  mine 
on  the  river's  bank. 

I  think  there  can  be  found  no  pleasanter  route  for  a  trav- 
eller  during  a  summer  tour  than  along  the  river  towns  from 
Middletown  up  to  Dnerfield.    The  roads  on  both  sides  lie 


00  AVENVE8   OF   ELMS. 

chiefly  on  the  fine  levels  which  generally  border  this  king 
of  New-England  streams,  and  the  villages  are  all  situated 
upon  them,  with  the  exception  of  Suffield  and  Enfield. 
The  occasional  interposition  of  a  hill  or  two,  and  the  cross- 
ing of  a  few  ravines,  afford  only  an  agreeable  variety  to  the 
journey.     The  intelligence  and  good  habits  of  the  people, 
the  flourishing   condition  of  the   arts,  the   abundance  of 
the  comforts  of  life,  and  the  homogeneous  society,  stfll 
almost  everywhere  preserved,  present  at  every  step  objecU 
of  interest  to  the  observing  traveller.     Here  also  are  seen 
the  birth-places  of  many  of  those  who  have  emigrated  to 
other  parts  of  the  Union,  assisted  in  clearing  the  Western 
forests,  and  in  pressing  on  civilization  far  towards  the  mte- 
rior  of  the  continent.     Here  we  see  schools  where  men 
have  received  the  first  rudiments  of  the  learning  they  have 
afterward  displayed  on  the  benches  and  in  the  legislatures 
of  states,  which,  when  they  were  building,  were  without  a 
name,  or  perhaps  an  inhabitant. 

The  limits  which  I  have  mentioned  include  the  sites  of 

the  first  settlements  on  the  river,  excepting  only  the  military 

one  at  Saybrook.     The  convenience  of  travelling  is  greatly 

increased  by  the  fine  rows  of  trees,  which,  with  some  inter- 

ruptions  indeed,  line  the  roads  the  whole  distance.     I  have 

not  been  able  to  ascertain  whence  arose  the  ancient  practice 

of  thus  decorating  the  streets  and  high-roads  ;  but  from  my 

earliest  recollection,  the  fine  elms,  spreading  their  noble 

branches  over  my  head,  excited  my  admiration.     Many  of 

them  are  of  great  age;  indeed,  trunks  are  standing,  and 

others  have  been  recently  removed,  which  seem  to  claim  a 

date  coeval  with,  or  anterior  to,  the  clearing  of  the  forests. 

In  many  places,  particularly  in  some  of  the  villages,  the 

finest  trees,  of  extraordinary  growth,  form  two,  three,  or 

four  lines,  and  overshadow  the  broad  path,  while  their  trunks 

are  at  the  same  time  so  naked  as  not  to  shut  out  the  view 

around.      The  sight  of  a  fine  tree  is  impressive ;  but  a 

journey  of  seventy  or  eighty  miles  through  such  a  grove 

fosters  feelings  of  a  delightful  and  exalting  nature. 


HarU 


Har 

country 

quiesce 

prospei 

ing  on. 

many  c 

days; 

moderr 

unknot 

veneral 

religioi 

render) 

more  < 

opened 

rcvolut 

emplo] 

so  mai 

agencj 

nomad 

hammi 

and  m 

and  d( 

Aftt 

has  be 

I  have 

Hill,  I 

of  the 

centui 

descri 

charai 


KLHS* 


HARTrORD. 


07 


generally  border  this  king 
le  villages  are  all  situated 

of  Suffield  and  Enfield. 
I  hill  or  two,  and  the  cross- 
an  agreeable  variety  to  the 
good  habits  of  the  people, 
le   arts,  the   abundance  of 
homogeneous  society,  still 
resent  at  every  step  objects 
vcller.     Here  also  are  seen 
)se  who  have  emigrated  to 
id  in  clearing  the  Western 
ization  far  towards  the  inte- 
ve  see  schools  where  men 
s  of  the  learning  they  have 
iches  and  in  the  legislatures 
ire  building,  were  without  a 

ntioned  include  the  sites  of 
r,  excepting  only  the  military 
lience  of  travelling  is  greatly 
•ees,  which,  with  some  inter- 
the  whole  distance.  I  have 
ice  arose  the  ancient  practice 
nd  high-roads  ;  but  from  my 
elms,  spreading  their  noble 
d  my  admiration.  Many  of 
d,  trunks  are  standing,  and 
oved,  which  seem  to  claim  a 
o,  the  clearing  of  the  forests. 
n  some  of  the  villages,  the 
growth,  form  two,  three,  or 
broad  path,  while  their  trunks 
as  not  to  shut  out  the  view 
e  tree  is  impressive ;  but  a 
miles  through  such  a  grove 
and  exalting  nature. 


CHAPTER  Xn. ' 

Hartford— Charter  Hill,  tho  Sent  of  the  Willis  Family— Public    . 
Institutions— Society — Antiquities. 

Hartford  may  be  taken  as  a  specimen  of  the  whole 
coimtry:  on  every  side  are  seen  marks  of  a  former  more 
quiescent  state  of  things,  while  a  hurrying,  populous,  and 
prosperous  current,  which  has  since  set  in,  is  rapidly  flow- 
ing on.     A  few  of  the  habitations  of  old  times  remain,  with 
many  of  the  sound  sentiments  and  excellent  habits  of  former 
days ;  but  as  the  former  have  been  generally  improved  by 
modern  hands,  or  at  least  furnished  with  comforts  formerly 
unknown,  without  losing  their  pristine  character  or  their 
venerable  aspect,  so  where  the  good  sense,  intelligence,  and 
religion  of  former  days  arc  found,  they  appear  to  have  been 
rendered  at  once  more  valuable  among  their  contrasts,  and 
more  extensively  useful  through   the   new  channels  now 
opened  for  their  exercise.     Every  thing  indicates  the  great 
revolution  which  has  taken  place  within  a  few  years  in  the 
employments  of  the  active  people  of  New-England,  where 
so  many  hands  are  now  engaged  in  manufactures,  and  the 
agency  which  has  converted  the  nation   into   a  race  of 
nomades  during  a  large  part  of  the  year.     The  strokes  of 
hammers  and  the  rolling  of  wheels  are  frequently  heard, 
and  many  steamboats  and  stage-coaches  are  daily  arriving 

and  departing.  .       ,  •  u  «    .r   ^ 

After  visiting  the  public  institutions,  in  which  Hartford 
has  become  very  rich,  and  enjoying  more  of  the  society  than 
I  have  leisure  to  weigh  or  estimate,  I  paid  a  visit  to  Charter 
Hill,  until  lately  the  seat  of  the  Willises.  It  has  passed  out 
of  the  family,  after  having  been  occupied  by  them  for  a 
century  and  a  half  or  more ;  and  I  am  the  more  anxious  to 
describe  it  because  it  may  soon  lose  such  of  its  ancient 
characteristics  as  it  yet  retains.    The  estate  lies  upon  the 

9* 


J 


1 


INSTITUTIONS. 


last  prominent  angle  of  an  elevated  range  of  beautiful  level 
ground,  which  rises  above  the  south  meadows  of  Hartford, 
and  makes  a  conspicuous  appearance  from  the  river,  Us 
banks,  and  several  parts  of  the  city,  while  it  overlooks  a 
large  part  of  Hartford,  and  the  fertile  course  of  tlie  Con- 
necticut  for  some  miles.     The  garden  occupies  the  level  to 
the  verge  of  the  descent,  having  the  venerable  old  mansion 
on  the  north,  and  a  remnant  of  the  orchard  on  the  east, 
where  I  suppose  stood  in  former  times  a  block-house,  for 
defence  against  the  Indians.     At  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and 
shading  the  street,  still  stands  the  ancient  oak  m  Jull  vigour, 
though  tradition  says  that  it  was  left  a  full-grown  tree  when 
the  native  forest  was  levelled  around  it. 

A  smooth  and  verdant  descent,  in  some  places  too  steep 
to  be  safely  passed,  leads  from  the  elevation  towards  the 
level  of  the  extensive  meadows  below,  on  one  of  the  upper 
levels  of  which  the  Indians  once  annually  pitched  their  wig- 
wams in  the  summer-season,  and  where  now  are  seen  count- 
less fields  of  grass  and  grain,  often  divided  by  fine  rows  of 
trees,  and  occasionally  bordered  with  bowers  of  native 
crape-vines.  The  ancient  oak,  which  has  furnished  so  many 
Jenerations  of  sportive  children  with  acorn  cups  and  a  really 
sublime  object  for  their  admiration,  shows  as  yet  no  token 
of  decay,  but  bids  fair  to  ilourish  yet  for  another  century. 
The  charter  of  Connecticut  colony,  which  owes  its  pres- 
ervation to  this  faithful  trunk,  seems  to  have  imbued  it  in 
return  with  perpetual  life ;  and  the  tree  is  regarded  with 
peculiar  veneration  for  its  connexion  with  that  important 
event  in  the  history  of  the  country. 

I  did  not  expect,  when  I  began  to  speak  of  Charter  Hill, 
to  find  leisure  to  say  a  word  of  the  people  of  Hartford  or 
their  public  institutions,  several  of  which  do  great  honour  to 
their  liberality  and  intelligence.  Having  a  few  minutes, 
however,  I  wUl  say,  in  the  first  place,  that  the  American 
Asvlum  for  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  is  the  first  institution  of  the 
kind  ever  founded  in  America,  and  has  not  only  encouraged 
the  establishment  of  all  others  existing  in  the  Union,  but 
has  caused  them  to  be  conducted  on  one  plan,  and  that 
probably  the  best  in  the  world.    The  Retreat  for  the  Insane 


NS. 

tc(l  range  of  beautiful  level 
south  meadows  of  Hartford, 
carancc  from  the  river,  its 
3  city,  while  it  overlooks  a 
I  fertile  course  of  tlie  Con- 
garden  occupies  the  level  to 
f  the  venerable  old  mansion 
f  the  orchard  on  the  east, 
er  times  a  block-house,  for 
Lt  the  foot  of  the  hill,  and 
he  ancient  oak  in  full  vigour, 
18  left  a  full-grown  tree  when 
round  it. 

nt,  in  some  places  too  steep 
n  the  elevation  towards  the 

below,  on  one  of  the  upper 
!e  annually  pitched  their  wig- 
rid  where  now  are  seen  count- 
•ften  divided  by  fine  rows  of 
ired  with  bowers  of  native 
,  which  has  furnished  so  many 
I  with  acorn  cups  and  a  really 
ation,  shows  as  yet  no  token 
ish  yet  for  another  century, 
lolony,  which  owes  its  pres- 
seems  to  have  imbued  it  in 
id  the  tree  is  regarded  with 
nnexion  with  that  important 
mtry. 

gan  to  speak  of  Charter  Hill, 
jf  the  people  of  Hartford  or 
1  of  which  do  great  honour  to 
,ce.  Having  a  few  minutes, 
first  place,  that  the  American 
lb  is  the  first  institution  of  the 

and  has  not  only  encouraged 
srs  existing  in  the  Union,  but 
lucted  on  one  plan,  and  that 
.    The  Retreat  for  the  Insane 


HARTFORD. 


09 


(which  by  the  way  owes  its  existence  chiefly  to  the  enlight- 
ened philanthropy  of  the  original  projector  of  tiic  asylum. 
the  late  Dr.  Cogswell)  has  been  conducted  ever  fimcc  its 
foundation  on  tiie  most  improved  principles,  and  aided  in 
bringing  about  an  era  in  the  treatment  of  insanity  at  which 
humanity  has  great  reason  to  rejoice.     The  learned  and 
persevering  gentleman  under  wiiom  this  institution  rose  to 
an  exalted  reputation,  the  late  Dr.  Todd,  is  acknowledged 
to  have  effectually  cured  a  greater  proportion  of  the  cases 
he  has   treated  than  any  person   in  America  or  Europe. 
And  how  consoling  is  the  reflection,  that  the  treatment  now 
dispenses  with   all  the  harsh  measures,  the  compulsory 
means,  both  corporeal  and  mental,  to  which  not  many  years 
ago  the  insane  were  subjected  in  hospitals,  under  the  most 
ill-founded  theories.     How  consoling  must  it  be  to  those 
Who  come  hither  to  intrust  their  afflicled  friends  to  the  skill 
of  the  oflicers,  to  see  the  comfortable  plan  and  arrangements 
of  their  destined  abode,  the  intelligent  and  gentle  manners 
of  the  superintendent,  matron,  physicians,  and  nurses,  and 
to  learn  that  the  female  department  is  under  the  frequent  in- 
spection of  a  committee  of  the  ladies  of  the  city,  among 
whom  the  suflerers  of  their  own  sex  are  sure  to  find  the 
most  delicate  sympathy!     How  interesting  it  is  to  every 
visiter  of  feeling,  to  look  upon  the  well-proportioned  edifice, 
the  spacious  enclosure,  and  the  agreeable  scenery  around,  to 
reflect  that  they  are  all  rendered  subservient  to  the  restora- 
tion of  the  immortal  mind  to  the  exercise  of  its  native 
powers,  and  the  cure  of  those  diseases  which  invade  and 
lay  waste  the  nobler  part  of  man :  the  reconstruction  of  that 
edifice  whose  grandeur  is  most  astonishing  when  it  is  viewed 
in  shattered  fragments ! 

Marks  of  unusual  refinement  and  delicacy  are  found 
among  the  society  of  Hartford,  such  as  we  might  expect 
among  persons  who  have  in  some  sense  the  oversight  of  so 
many  objects  of  charitable  interest.  The  ladies  do  not 
observe  the  pupils  of  the  Deaf  and  Dumb  Asylum,  or  hear  of 
or  visit  the  tenants  of  the  Retreat,  without  feelings  of  com- 
passion and  disinterestedness  ;  and  the  persons  employed  in 
those  institutions  have  opportunities  for  studying  the  nature 


100 


MRI.  moOVRNlt. 


of  the  mind  which  few  others  po««.>s9:     It  .9  nccnssnry  for 
an  inteUiKont  observer  to  witness  but  one  lesson  m  a  e  hss 
of  r  Sand  dumb,  ,0  see  th.t  the  course  ol  mstruct.on 
It  develop  the  fm-ultics  of  the  pupils  and  espec.uily  of 
lotV'cher.inan  extraordinary  decree.    It  was  foretold  of 
the  Rev.  Mr.  Gallaudct  some  years  ago,  and  very  «oon  after 
his  reti  r„     rom    Europe,  at   the   eommeneement  of     ho 
AmertHH  Asylum,  that  he  was  in  a  way  to  become  a  d.s^ 
JlThecl  benefactor  to  his  country,  by  in.roduc.ng  nnprove^ 
S»  into  the  principles  of  general  education      And  how 
S  has  experience  proved  the  foresight  of  tins  r.mark 
W  th  a  hear?  of  the  iarmest  philanthropy,  and  a  mnul  at 
Tnce  i'dicious,  penetrath.g,  inventive,  and  persever.ng,  he 
has  p  oduced  several  books  for  the  elementary  mslruct.on  of 
cS  Id  en  in  morals  and  religion,  which  have  taught  many  a 
parent  "o  do  what  has  been  for  ages  considered  unpossrble, 
Snd  encouraged  them  to  undertake  more,  whdc  .t  has  pro- 
curecl  Ibr  many  a  child  advantages  often  denied  to  persons 

^^'mre'  Tio  be  found  in  Hartford  a  considerable  amount 
of  lUe  ary  and  scientifie  knowledge  and  taste.  Bes.de  those 
Sdent7of  both  sexes  who  have  devoted  tnuc  to  readmg, 

he  collection  of  specimens,  the   ^'^=»""g  °  ff^  "''''  fj; 
Washington  College,  which  was  ^"f  ^^I'^^ed  a Jcwjears 
since,  in  a  commanding  situation  m  the  numcd.ate  environs 
has  exercised  some  favourable   influence  m  this  respect. 
Severars  hools  for  young  ladies,  at  ^^^^^^^^^^^^:J^^ 
also  had  their  share  in  raising  -^^ -PP-^^^  7^;;;^^;'^^ 
character  of  the  city.     Among  them  was  one  ta  ght  a  f|W 
vears   since   by  Miss    Huntley,  now  Mrs.  Lydia   H.  hi- 
Snerwho  has  distinguished  herself  as  one  of  the  best 
Ee  writers  of  our  country,  in  poetry  and  prose,  and  who 
haTdone  more  with  her  pea  thar.  almost  any  other  of  her 
Bex  in  the  United  States,  to  elevate  public  sentmren t,  and 
lo  show  the   holy  union  which    exists   between   religion 
and  puTe,exalted^iterary  taste.     During  a  few  years  m 
M  she  was  devoted  to  the  instruction  of  young  ladies  in 
£  city  she  employed  her  leisure  in  cultivatmg  her  owu 
^d  and  heart,  Ld  in  contributing  to  the  enjoyments  of  a 


[TRNHY. 


lOBscss.     It  is  nrcnssary  for 
Dss  but  one  Icmsou  in  w  i'lti88 
lilt  the  course  of  instruction 
tlic  pupils,  and  CHpeciiilly  of 
y  decree    It  was  foretold  of 
•oarH  ago,  and  very  soon  after 
the   eommenccnient  of   the 
I  in  a  way  to  become  a  dis- 
intry,  by  introducing  iinprove- 
eneral  education.     And  how 
lie  foresight  of  this  remark '. 
phihmthropy,  and  a  mind  at 
nventive,  and  persevering,  he 
r  the  elementaiy  instruction  of 
n,  which  have  taught  many  a 
)r  ages  considered  impossible, 
ertakc  more,  while  it  has  pro- 
tages  often  denied  to  persons 

[artford  a  considerable  amount 
ledge  and  taste.  Beside  those 
vave  devoted  time  to  reading, 
,  the   rearing  of  plants,   «Sic. 

was  established  a  few  years 
tion  in  the  immediate  environs, 
ible   influence  in  this  respect, 
adies,  at  different  periods,  have 
y  and  supporting  the  intellectual 
jng  them  was  one  taught  a  few 
itley,  now  Mrs.  Lydia   H.  Si- 
shcd  herself  as  one  of  the  best 
y,  in  poetry  and  prose,  and  who 
I  than  almost  any  other  of  her 
3  elevate  public  sentiment,  and 
vhich    exists   between   religion 
taste.     During  a  few  years  in 
he  instruction  of  young  ladies  in 

leisure  in  cultivating  her  own 
tributing  to  the  enjoyments  of  a 


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to  lea 

aid  oJ 

Tl 

mora] 

of  th 

Lyce 

youni 

estab 

litera 

hsret 

mear 

oper; 

state 

alone 

kind 

ten  0 

three 

them 

for  t< 

anni^ 

centi 

mov( 

and 

whic 


■^J 


HARTFORD. 


im 


social  circle  of  which  she  was  a  member.  A  small  literary 
society  of  which  she  was  the  founder,  like  the  school 
which  she  instructed,  was  a  source  of  moral  and  intel- 
lectual benefit  to  the  various  spheres  in  which  its  members 
since  have  moved.  It  was  more  rare  then  than  now  to  see 
such  exertions  made,  and  crowned  with  such  success  ;  and 
it  is  not  easy  to  describe  how  unpromising  appeared  the 
project  of  forming  such  an  association  among  the  youth 
of  such  a  town,  or  how  gratifying  was  the  surprise  caused 
by  its  prosperity.  Several  larger  and  more  public  associa- 
tions now  exist  in  Hartford,  the  number  of  inhabitants  having 
become  nearly  double,  and  the  general  interest  in  favour  of 
intellectual  improvement  throughout  the  larger  and  many  of 
the  smaller  towns  in  this  part  of  the  country  having  increased 
in  an  equal  ratio ;  and  to  their  members  it  will  be  gratifying 
to  learn  that  such  societies  early  received  the  sanction  and 
aid  of  such  an  individual  as  Mrs.  Sigourney. 

The  Goodrich  Association  hear  literary,  scientific,  or 
moral  lectures  every  week  through  the  winter  from  some 
of  their  members ;  while  the  debates  of  the  Ciceronean 
Lyceum  also  interest  a  large  number,  principally  of  the 
young.  A  social  library,  of  considerable  extent  and  value, 
established  many  years  ago,  has  had  an  influence  on  the 
literary  character  of  the  people,  though  lately  more  than 
heretofore,  as  it  is  an  important  characteristic  of  all  the 
means  of  knowledge  that  they  powerfully  assist  each  other's 
operation.  The  Sabbath-schools  are  in  a  most  flourishing 
state ;  and  wherever  this  is  the  case,  not  reUgion  and  morals 
alone  find  benefit  in  them,  but  useful  knowledge  of  every 
kind  is  powerfully  promoted.  There  are  now  no  less  than 
ten  or  twelve  churches  in  the  city,  all  which,  with  two  or 
three  exceptions,  have  Sabbath-schools  connected  with 
them.  A  society,  consisting  of  all  the  teachers,  has  existed 
for  ten  years.  I  had  the  gratification  of  seeing  them  on  the 
anniversary  of  American  Independence  proceed  from  the 
central  church,  after  a  public  service  for  the  occasion,  and 
move  by  schools  and  classes,  under  their  appropriate  teachers 
and  superintendents,  to  a  beautiful  grove  of  young  maples 
which  closed  over-head,  and  formed  a  complete  canopy  for 


102 


OLD  EPITAPHS. 


the  street,  to  join  their  voices  in  sacred  music  and  listen  to 
an  appropriate  address.  The  spot,  it  happened,  was  near 
that  formerly  the  annual  scene  of  a  public  dinner  on  the 
fourth  of  July ;  and  the  reflection  that  so  gratifying  a  change 
had  taken  place  in  its  celebration  gave  double  interest  to  tlie 
scene.  There  were  none  of  the  decorations  or  ensigns  of 
war  now  displayed.  And  indeed  why  should  powder  and 
steel  have  all  the  honour  of  that  conquest  which  was 
efllected  primarily  by  the  virtue  and  intelligence  of  our 
fathers  ?  We  were  presented  with  a  procession  of  some 
hundreds  of  children,  the  boys  generally  in  blue  jackets  and 
white  pantaloons,  and  the  girls  in  white  frocks  tied  with 
blue  ribands,  all  with  cheerful  faces,  neat  and  well-behaved. 

More  books  are  annually  published  in  this  place  than  in 
any  other  in  New-England,  only  excepting  Boston,  as  I 
believe.  The  amount  it  is  diflicult  to  estimate.  In  addition 
to  other  machines  employed,  three  steam-presses  are  now  in 
operation. 

In  the  old  burying-ground  in  Hartford,  in  the  rear  of  the 
centre  church,  are  three  ancient  monuments,  in  good  preser- 
vation, side  by  side,  erected  to  the  memory  of  three  of  the 
most  distinguished  men  among  the  founders  of  the  colony. 
They  were  originally  placed  over  the  graves,  in  some  spot, 
I  believe,  not  far  from  where  they  now  are.  They  are 
simple  slabs,  of  red  sandstone  or  freestone,  about  five 
inches  in  thickness,  raised  on  blocks  of  the  same,  and  for- 
tunately of  a  lasting  material,  for  after  so  long  an  exposure 
to  the  elements  they  are  almost  entire,  and  their  inscrip- 
tions are  easily  legible.  The  following  is  a  copy  of  the 
first  epitaph  on  the  northern  stone  : — 

HERE.  LYETH.  THE.  BODY.  OF.  yb 
HONOVRABLE.  JOHN.  HAYNES, 
ESQr  FIRST.  GOUERNOUR.  OF 
YE  COLONY  OF  CONNECTICVTT 
IN.  NEWINGLAND.  WHO.  DYED 
MARCH.  YE.  J.  ANNO  DOM  165' 

There  are  two  other  similar  uiscriptions  on  the  same 


stone : 
the  first 
fourth  c 
and  the 
Haynes 
1705,  it 
Thei 


,  Who 
Tol 
] 
An  el( 


The 
stone  :- 

An  I 

New 
Was 
Til  < 

DoTJ 

In  Nit 
Tisj 
Erro 
He  s 
Abov 
Hari 

Thes 
the  pres 
most  int 
pearanc( 
air,  if  pr 
people  o 
of  their 
oionume 


PHS. 

sacred  music  and  listen  (o 
pot,  it  happened,  was  near 
}f  a  public  dinner  on  the 
that  so  gratifying  a  change 
gave  double  interest  to  tlie 
G  decorations  or  ensigns  of 
1  why  should  powder  and 
that  conquest  which  was 
s  and  intelligence  of  our 
riih  a  procession  of  some 
inerally  in  blue  jackets  and 
in  white  frocks  tied  with 
:es,  neat  and  well-behaved, 
lished  in  this  place  than  In 
y  excepting  Boston,  as  I 
It  to  estimate.  In  addition 
e  steam-presses  are  now  in 

lartford,  in  the  rear  of  the 
nonuments,  in  good  preser- 
e  memory  of  three  of  the 
le  founders  of  the  colony. 
r  the  graves,  in  some  spot, 
they  now  are.  They  are 
or  freestone,  about  five 
cks  of  the  same,  and  for- 
-  after  so  long  an  exposure 
t  entire,  and  their  inscrip- 
tllowing  is  a  copy  of  the 


BODY.  OF.  YB 
HAYNES, 
QUR.  OF 
ECTICVTT 
10.  DYED 
)0M  165; 

hiscriptions  on  the  same 


«k 


HARTFORD. 


loa 


Stone :  one  to  the  "  Rev.  Mr.  Joseph  Haynes,  minister  of 
the  first  church  in  Hartford,  who  deceased  on  the  twenty- 
fourth  of  May,  Anno  Dom.  1769,  aged  thirty-eight  years ;" 
and  the  last  to  "  Mrs.  Sarah  Haynes,  relict  of  Mr.  Joseph 
Haynes,  who  deceased  November  the  16th,  Anno  Dom. 
1705,  in  the  sixty-seventh  year  of  her  age." 
The  middle  stone  bears  the  following  inscription  : — 

In  MEMonv  of  the  Rev.  Thomas  Hooker 

,  Who  in  1636  with  his  assistant  Mr.  Stone  removed 

To  Hartford  with  about  100  persons,  where  he 

Planted  ye  first  Dhcrch  in  Connecticut 

An  eloquent,  able  and  faithful  Minister  of  Christ. 

He  died  Iuly  7TH  ^Et  LXI 

The  following  is  the  inscription  on  the  third  or  southern 
stone : — 

n 
An  epitaph  on  M  Samuel  Stone,  Deceased  ye  61 

yeare  of  his  age  Ivly  20  1663. 
Newenoland's  olory  &  her  radiant  crowne, 
Was  he  who  now  on  softest  bed  of  downe, 
Til  glorious  resurrection  horne  appeare, 
Doth  safely,  sweetly  sleepe  in  Jesus  here. 
In  nature's  solid  art,  &  reasoning  well, 
Tis  knowne,  beyond  compare,  he  did  excell  : 
Errors  corrupt,  by  sinnewous  dispute. 
He  did  oppvgne,  &  clearly  them  confute  : 
Above  all  things  he  Christ  his  Lord  preferrd, 
Hartford,  thy  richest  jewel's  here  interd. 

These  inscriptions  are  copied  as  closely  as  the  type  of 
the  present  day  will  allow.  The  originals  are  among  the 
most  interesting  relics  in  our  country,  and  may,  to  all  ap- 
pearance,  yet  be  preserved  for  ccituries,  even  in  the  open 
air,  if  properly  protected  from  injury.  The  liberal-minded 
people  of  Hartford  would  honour  themselves  and  the  memory 
of  their  pious  ancestors,  by  surrounding  these  invaluable 
monuments  with  some  sufficient  barrier. 


tOi 


VISIT  TO  THE  SPKINGS. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 

Narrative  of  a  Visit  to  the  Springs  in  the  last  Century— Newspaperi. 

A  FRIEND  of  mine,  who  possesses  a  most  accurate  memory, 
has  furnished  me  with  the  following  account  of  a  visit  she 
made  to  the  Springs  in  the  year  1791,  in  company  with 
several  of  her  acquaintances,  male  and  female.  Thinking 
it  may  prove  in  some  respects  interesting  to  my  readers,  to 
have  an  opportunity  to  compare  the  present  with  the  past,  I 
have  thought  proper  to  insert  it  nearly  in  the  word*  in  which 

I  received  it. 

The  party  originally  consisted  of  five,  viz.  three  gentle- 
men and  two  ladies,  who  travelled  with  two  gigs  (then  called 
chairs)  and  a  saddle-horse.  Their  first  plan  was  to  pro- 
ceed only  to  "  Lebanon  Pool,"  now  known  as  Lebanon 
Springs,  and  after  a  short  visit  there  to  return :  some  of  their 
friends,  who  had  spent  a  little  time  there  in  preceding  years, 
having  made  a  pleasing  report  of  the  place.  The  grand- 
mother of  one  of  them,  it  was  recollected,  had  returned  from 
"  the  Pool"  one  pleasant  day  before  the  Revolution,  and  dis- 
mounted from  her  side-saddle,  in  a  dark-coloured  josey  and 
petticoat,  with  the  dignity  proverbial  of  those  old  times,  yet 
told  of  her  cooking  for  dinner  the  pease  picked  by  the  gentle- 
men at  that  ancient  watering-place. 

From  Hartford  the  party  proceeded  westward ;  and  some 
idea  may  be  formed  of  the  fashions  from  the  dress  of  one  of 
the  ladies,  who  wore  a  black  beaver  with  a  sugar-loaf  crown, 
eight  or  nine  inches  high,  called  a  steeple  crown,  wound 
round  with  black  and  red  cord  and  tassels,  being  less  showy 
than  the  gold  cord  sometimes  worn.  Habits  having  gone 
out  of  fashion,  the  dress  was  of  "  London  smoke"  broad- 
cloth, buttoned  down  in  front  and  at  the  side  with  twenty- 
four  gilt  buttons,  about  the  size  of  a  half-dollar.    Long 


waist 

treme 

paste 

the  fii 

selves 

infest 

as  th( 

from; 

for  m 

notb( 

met  s 

with 

pilgri 

horse 

pann( 

as  on 

Tl 
the  tl 
some 
a  brc 
day. 
were 
re8id( 
ceed< 
joinei 
and 
danci 
moui 
cloth 
stoclt 
they 
inhal 
in  re 
curio 
son  ^ 
but 
Rho( 

In 
lers 


SFRINQS. 


HUDSON. 


tos 


I  XIII. 

the  last  Century — Newspaper!. 

ses  a  most  accurate  memory, 
ving  account  of  a  visit  she 
lar  1791,  in  company  with 
lale  and  female.  Thinking 
nteresting  to  my  readers,  to 
the  present  witli  the  past,  I 
learly  in  the  words  in  which 

id  of  five,  viz.  three  gentle- 
3d  with  two  gigs  (then  called 
"heir  first  plan  was  to  pro- 

now  known  as  Lebanon 
ere  to  return :  some  of  their 
me  there  in  preceding  years, 

of  the  place.  The  grand- 
jcoUected,  had  returned  from 
fore  the  Revolution,  and  dis- 
,n  a  dark-coloured  josey  and 
srbial  of  those  old  times,  yet 
3  pease  picked  by  the  gentle- 
ice. 

needed  westward ;  and  some 
ons  from  the  dress  of  one  of 
iver  with  a  sugar-loaf  crown, 
ed  a  steeple  crown,  wound 
and  tassels,  being  less  showy 

worn.     Habits  having  gone 

of  "  London  smoke"  broad- 
md  at  the  side  with  twenty- 
ize  of  a  half-dollar.    Long 


waists  and  stays  were  in  fashion,  and  the  shoes  were  ex- 
tremely sharp-toed  and  high-heeled,  ornamented  with  large 
paste  buckles  on  the  instep.  At  a  tavern  where  they  spent 
the  first  night,  the  ladies  were  obliged  to  surround  them- 
selves with  a  barrier  of  bean-leaves  to  keep  ofi'the  bugs  which 
infested  the  place  ;  but  this  afforded  only  temporary  benefit, 
as  the  vermin  soon  crept  to  tlie  ceiling  and  fell  upon  them 
from  above.  Tlie  Green  Woods,  through  which  the  road  lay 
for  many  miles,  were  very  rough,  and  in  many  places  could 
not  be  travelled  in  carriages  without  danger.  They  scarcely 
met  anybody  on  this  part  of  the  way,  except  an  old  man 
with  a  long  white  beard,  who  looked  like  a  palmer  on  a 
pilgrimage  to  the  Holy  Land ;  and  his  wife — who  rode  a 
horse  on  a  saddle  with  a  projecting  pummel,  then  called  a 
pannel,  and  a  single  iron  chain  for  a  bridle — was  as  ugly 
as  one  of  Shakspeare's  old  crones. 

The  few  habitations  to  be  seen  were  so  uninviting,  that 
the  travellers  usually  took  their  meals  in  the  open  air,  in 
some  pleasant  spot  under  the  trees,  and  often  by  the  side  of 
a  brook,  the  recollection  of  which  is  pleasant  even  to  this 
day.  After  three  days  they  reached  Hudson,  where  they 
were  introduced  to  a  very  pleasant  circle  by  a  friend  who 
resided  in  the  place,  and  after  sufiicient  repose  they  pro- 
ceeded. A  gentleman,  who  had  come  to  attend  a  ball,  here 
joined  the  party,  sending  a  messenger  home  for  clothes ; 
and  although  he  did  not  receive  them,  and  had  only  his 
dancing  dress,  persisted  in  proceeding  with  them.  He 
mounted  liis  horse,  therefore,  in  a  suit  of  white  broad- 
cloth, with  powdered  hair,  small-clothes,  and  white  silk 
stockings.  While  at  Hudson,  it  had  been  determined  that 
they  would  go  directly  to  Saratoga,  where  several  of  the 
inhabitants  of  Hudson  then  were ;  the  efficacy  of  the  water 
in  restoring  health  being  much  celebrated,  as  well  as  the 
curious  round  and  hollow  rock  from  which  it  flowed.  Hud- 
son was  a  flourishing  village,  although  it  had  been  settled 
but  about  seven  years,  by  people  from  Nantucket  and 
Rhode  Island. 

In  the  afternoon  the  prospect  of  a  storm  made  the  travel- 
lers hasten  their  gait,  and  they  stopped  for  the  night  at  an 

10 


t06 


THK  SPRINGS  IN  1791. 


old  Dutch  house,  which,  notwilhstantling  the  uncouth  aspect 
of  a  Ureplace  without  jams,  was  a  welcome  retreat  from  the 
weather.  The  thunder,  lightning,  and  rain  soon  came  on, 
and  prevailed  for  some  hours,  but  left  a  clear  sky  in  the 
morning,  when  the  party  proceeded,  and  reached  Albany  at 
breakfast-time.  Some  of  the  party  were  greatly  alarmed 
at  the  sight  of  an  old  woman  at  a  door  in  one  of  the  streets, 
with  her  face  shockingly  disfigured  by  the  small-pox,  in  a 
■tate  of  activity,  for  one  of  tho  ladies  had  never  had  that 
disease,  and  was  near  enough  to  be  exposed  to  the  con- 
tagion. By  the  presence  of  mind  of  her  companions,  how- 
ever, she  was  prevented  from  observing  the  painful  object, 
and  from  such  apprehension  as  they  felt  for  her,  until  the 
time  for  the  appearance  of  the  disease  had  passed.  The 
old  Dutch  church,  with  its  pointed  roof  and  great  window 
of  painted  glass,  stood  at  that  time  at  the  foot  of  State- 
street. 

At  Troy,  where  the  travellers  took  tea,  there  were  only 
about  a  dozen  houses :  the  place  having  been  settled  only 
three  years  by  people  from  Killingworth,  Saybrook,  and 
other  towns  in  Connecticut.  Lansingburgh  was  an  older 
and  more  considerable  town ;  containing  apparently  more 
than  a  hundred  houses,  and  inhabited  principally  by  emi- 
grants from  the  same  state.  The  tavern  was  a  very  good 
one ;  but  the  inhabitants  were  so  hospitable  to  the  party, 
who  were  known  through  mutual  friends,  that  the  time  was 
spent  almost  entirely  at  private  houses.  After  a  delay  of 
two  nights  and  a  day,  they  proceeded  on  their  journey. 
Crossing  the  Hudson  to  Waterford  by  a  ferry,  they  went 
back  as  far  as  the  Mohawk  to  see  the  Cohoes  Falls,  of 
which  they  had  a  fine  view  from  the  northern  bank,  riding 
along  the  brow  of  the  precipice  in  going  and  returning. 

On  the  road  to  the  Mohawk  the  travellers  met  a  party  of 
some  of  the  most  respectable  citizens  of  Albany  in  a  common 
country  wagon,  without  a  cover,  with  straw  under  feet,  and 
vith  wooden  chairs  for  seats  :  their  family-coach  being  too 
heavy  for  short  excursions.  Two  gentlemen  on  horse- 
back, in  their  company,  finding  that  our  travellers  were 
going  to  Saratoga,  offered  to  accompany  them  to  the  scene 


of  bat 
after  ^ 

"V 
was  G 
of  the 
She  in 
the  fl( 
Fraze 
wounc 
we  w< 
who  h 
the  rii 
the  ca 
had  I 
playe( 

"Oi 
were 
men; 
possik 
over, 
invitir 
forest 
the  ai 
been  < 
in  an 
appea 
or  al 
a  wre 
been 
in  ani 
Wei 
up  to 
peep( 
had  r 
with 
for  ui 
fast 
uear( 


—^ 


W  1791. 

landing  the  uncouth  aspect 
I  welcome  retreat  from  the 
r,  and  rain  soon  came  on, 
but  left  8  clear  sky  in  the 
led,  and  reached  Albany  at 
arty  were  greatly  alarmed 
1  door  in  one  of  the  streets, 
red  by  the  small-pox,  in  a 

ladies  had  never  had  that 
o  be  exposed  to  the  con- 
id  of  her  companions,  how- 
)scrving  the  painful  object, 
they  felt  for  her,  until  the 

disease  had  passed.  The 
;ed  roof  and  great  window 
time  at  the  foot  of  State< 

s  took  tea,  there  were  only 
ce  having  been  settled  only 
jllingworth,  Saybrook,  and 
<ansingburgh  was  an  older 
;ontaining  apparently  more 
habited  principally  by  emi- 
rhe  tavern  was  a  very  good 
io  hospitable  to  the  party, 
il  friends,  that  the  time  was 
3  houses.  After  a  delay  of 
iroceeded  on  their  journey, 
rford  by  a  ferry,  they  went 
io  see  the  Cohoes  Falls,  of 
n  the  northern  bank,  riding 
in  going  and  returning, 
the  travellers  met  a  party  of 
Izens  of  Albany  in  a  common 
',  with  straw  under  feet,  and 
their  family-coach  being  too 
Two  gentlemen  on  horse- 
ig  that  our  travellers  were 
:company  them  to  the  scene 


A  WILDERNESS. 


lev 


of  battle  at  Behmis's  Heights,  and  Uiither  they  proceeded 
after  visiting  the  Cohoes. 

"  We  dined,"  said  my  informant,  "  in  the  house  which 
was  General  Burgoyne's  head-quarters  in  1777 ;  and  one 
of  the  females  who  attended  us  was  tiiere  during  the  battle. 
She  informed  us  of  many  particulars,  showed  us  a  sj^t  upon 
the  floor  which  was  stained  with  the  blood  of  General 
Frazer,  who,"  she  added,  "when  brought  in  mortally 
wounded  from  the  field,  was  laid  upon  the  table  at  which 
we  were  seated.  During  the  funeral,  the  American  troops, 
who  had  got  into  the  British  rear  on  the  opposite  side  of 
the  river,  and  had  been  firing  over  the  house,  on  discovering 
the  cause  of  the  procession  up  the  steep  hill,  where  Frazer 
had  requested  to  be  interred,  not  only  ceased  firing,  but 
played  a  dead  march  in  compliment  to  his  memory." 

"  On  leaving  the  battle-ground  for  Saratoga  Lake,  our  party 
were  reduced  in  number  to  four  by  the  loss  of  four  gentle- 
men ;  two  of  whom,  however,  intended  to  overtake  us,  if 
possible,  before  night.  The  country  we  had  now  to  pasa 
over,  after  leaving  the  banks  of  the  Hudson,  was  very  un- 
inviting, and  almost  uninhabited.  The  road  lay  through  a 
forest,  and  was  formed  of  logs.  We  travelled  till  late  in 
the  afternoon  before  we  reached  a  house,  to  which  we  had 
been  directed  for  our  lodging.  It  stood  in  a  solitary  place, 
in  an  opening  of  the  dark  forest,  and  had  so  comfortless  an 
appearance,  that  without  approaching  to  take  a  near  view, 
or  alighting,  we  determined  to  proceed  farther.  It  was 
a  wretched  log-hut,  with  only  one  door,  which  had  never 
been  on  hinges,  was  to  be  lifted  by  every  person  coming 
in  and  going  out,  and  had  no  fastening  except  a  few  nails. 
We  halted  at  the  sight  of  it ;  and  one  of  the  gentlemen  rode 
up  to  take  a  nearer  view.  Standing  up  in  his  saddle,  he 
peeped  into  a  square  hole  which  served  as  a  window,  but 
had  no  glass  nor  shutter,  and  found  the  floor  the  bare  earth, 
with  scarcely  any  furniture  to  be  seen.  Nothing  remained 
for  us  but  to  proceed,  and  make  our  way  to  the  Springs  as 
fast  as  possible;  for  we  knew  of  no  human  habitation 
nearer ;  and  when  or  how  we  might  hope  to  reach  there, 


I 


m 


TUG  SPRINGS  IN  1701. 


\ 


we  could  not  tell.  We  were  for  a  time  extremely  dif- 
pirited,  until  the  gentleman  who  had  joined  us  at  Hudson 
came  forward  (still  in  his  ball^drcss),  and  endeavoured  to 
encourage  us,  saying,  that  if  we  would  but  trust  to  his  guid- 
ance, he  doubted  not  that  he  should  be  able  to  conduct  us 
■afely  and  speedily  to  a  more  comfortable  habitation. 

"  This  raised  our  hopes  ;  and  we  followed  him  cheerfully, 
though  the  day  was  now  at  its  close,  and  the  forest  seemed 
thicker  and  darker  than  before.  When  the  last  light  at 
length  had  disappeared,  and  we  found  ourselves  in  the 
deepest  gloom,  our  guide  confessed  that  he  had  encouraged 
us  to  keep  us  from  despair ;  and  that  as  to  any  knowledge 
of  the  road,  he  had  never  been  there  before  in  his  life.  He 
however  dismounted,  tied  his  horse  behind  our  chair,  and 
taking  the  bridle  of  our  own,  began  to  lead  him  on,  groping 
his  way  as  well  as  he  was  able,  stepping  into  one  mud-hole 
after  another  without  regard  to  his  silk  stockings,  sometimes 
up  to  his  beanish  knee-buckles.  It  seemed  as  if  we  were 
going  for  a  long  time  down  a  steep  hill  into  some  bottom- 
less pit ;  and  every  few  minutes  one  wheel  would  pass 
over  a  log  or  a  stump  so  high  as  almost  to  overset  us.  At 
length  we  insisted  on  stopping,  and  spent  a  quarter  of  an 
hour  in  anxiety  and  doubt,  being  unable  to  determine  what 
we  had  better  do.  We  heard  the  voices  of  animals  in 
the  woods,  which  some  of  us  feared  might  attack  us.  At 
length  one  of  the  gentlemen  declared  that  a  sound  which 
we  had  heard  for  some  time  at  a  distance,  could  not  be  the 
howl  of  a  wolf,  for  which  we  had  taken  it,  but  must  be  the 
barking  of  a  wolf-dog,  and  indicated  that  the  habitation  of 
his  master  was  not  very  far  off,  proposing  to  go  in  search 
of  it.  The  gentlemen  were  unwilling  to  leave  us  alone ; 
but  we  insisted  that  they  miglit  need  each  other's  assist- 
ance, and  made  them  go  together.  But  it  was  a  long  time 
before  we  heard  from  them  again.  How  long  they  were 
gone  I  do  not  know,  for  we  soon  became  impatient  and 
alarmed ;  but  at  length  we  discovered  a  light  among  the 
trees,  which  shining  upon  the  trunks  and  boughs,  made  a 
beautiful  vista,  like  an  endless  Gothic  arch,  and  showed  a 


thous: 
return 
and  st 

"U 
contai 
hospit 
we  foi 
we  c( 
light 
the  w 
wild  b 
ing  fo 
proaci 
the  b( 
from  V 
the  dii 
kindle 
tea  m: 
single 
every 
never 
useful 
table, 
saucci 
partly 
which 
pendic 

"W 
screan 
us  SU] 
after  li 
cries  < 
ceedet 
our  tw 
by  the 
and  sc 
their  s 
behind 
iog  foi 


M  1701. 


LOST  IN  THE  WOODS. 


109 


for  a  time  extremely  dit- 
I  had  joined  us  at  Hudson 
Ircss),  and  endeavoured  to 
HTOuld  but  trust  to  his  guid- 
lould  be  able  to  conduct  us 
mfortable  habitation, 
we  followed  him  cheerfully, 
lose,  and  the  forest  scorned 
.  When  the  last  light  at 
e  found  ourselves  in  the 
led  that  he  had  encouraged 

that  as  to  any  knowledge 
here  before  in  his  life.  He 
>rse  behind  our  chair,  and 
;an  to  lead  him  on,  groping 
stepping  into  one  mud-hole 
is  silk  stockings,  sometimes 

It  seemed  as  if  we  were 
$ep  hill  into  some  bottom* 
3S  one  wheel  would  pass 
I  almost  to  overset  us.  At 
■ind  spent  a  quarter  of  an 
I  unable  to  determine  what 

the  voices  of  animals  in 
ared  might  attack  us.  At 
iclared  that  a  sound  which 

distance,  could  not  be  the 
d  taken  it,  but  must  be  the 
ated  that  the  habitation  of 
proposing  to  go  in  search 
willing  to  leave  us  alone ; 

need  each  other's  assist- 
r.  But  it  was  a  long  time 
lin.  How  long  they  were 
)on  became  impatient  and 
:overed  a  light  among  the 
unks  and  boughs,  made  a 
lOthic  arch,  and  showed  a 


J 


thousand  tall  columns  on  both  sides.  We  discovered  Ihcm 
returning,  accompanied  by  two  n>eu,  wlio  led  m  oil"  the  road, 
and  stuck  up  lighted  pine  knots  to  guide  uur  friends. 

"  Under  their  guidance  we  found  our  way  to  a  log-house, 
containing  but  one  room,  and  destitute  of  every  thing  except 
hospitable  inhabitants ;  so  that,  although  we  were  admitted, 
we  found  we  should  be  obliged  to  make  such  arrangements  as 
we  could  for  sleeping.  There  was  no  lamp  or  candle: 
light  being  supplied  by  pine  knots  stuck  in  the  crevices  of 
the  walls.  The  conversation  of  the  family  proved  that 
wild  beasts  were  very  numerous  and  bold  in  the  surround- 
ing forest,  and  that  they  sometimes,  when  hungry,  ap- 
proached the  house ;  and  there  was  a  large  aperture  left  at 
the  bottom  of  the  door  to  admit  the  dogs  when  in  danger 
from  wolves.  The  floor  extended  on  one  side  but  to  within 
the  distance  of  several  feet  of  the  wall,  a  space  being  left  to 
kindle  the  fire  upon  the  bare  ground ;  and  when  we  wanted 
tea  made,  the  mistress  of  the  house  could  produce  only  a 
single  kettle,  in  which  water  was  boiled  for  washing  and 
every  other  purpose.  She  had  heard  of  teakettles,  but  had 
never  seen  one ;  and  was  impressed  with  an  idea  of  the 
usefulness  of  such  a  utensil.  When  we  had  spread  the 
table,  out  of  our  own  stores,  and  divided  tea-cups  and 
saucers,  a  porringer,  «kc.,  among  us,  we  seated  ourselves, 
partly  on  the  bedstead,  and  partly  on  a  kind  of  arm-chair, 
which  was  formed  by  an  old  round  table  when  raised  per- 
pendicularly, and  thus  partook  of  a  meal. 

"We  were,  however,  suddenly  alarmed  by  cries  or 
screams  at  a  little  distance  in  the  forest,  which  some  of 
us  supposed  to  be  those  of  wolves  or  bears.  Our  host, 
after  listening  a  while,  declared  his  belief  that  they  were  the 
cries  of  some  travellers  who  had  lost  their  way,  and  pro- 
ceeded with  the  gentlemen  to  search  for  them.  They  found 
our  two  expected  friends,  who  had  followed  the  path  lighted 
by  the  torches,  but  unfortunately  wandered  from  it  a  little, 
and  soon  found  before  them  a  wall  too  high  to  reach  from 
their  stirrups.  They  attempted  to  retreat ;  but  found  it  also 
behind  them ;  and  though  they  rode  round  and  round,  feel- 
iog  for  a  place  of  exit,  could  find  none,  and  then  began  to 

10* 


110 


THE  8PRIN0S  IN  1701. 


call  for  assistance,  hoping  that  some  dwelling  might  be 
within  the  reach  of  their  voices.  Being  happily  relieved  and 
restored  to  us,  the  adventures  of  the  evening  served  as  a 
subject  of  pleasantry.  They  had  unconsciously  entered  a 
pound  or  pen  for  bears,  by  a  very  narrow  entrance,  which 
in  the  darkness  they  could  not  tind  again,  and  thus  their 
embarrassment  was  fully  explained.  We  slept  that  night 
on  our  luggage  and  saddles ;  but  our  hospitable  hosts  re- 
fused all  reward  in  the  morning. 

"On  reaching  the  Springs  at  Saratoga,  we  found  but 
three  habitations,  and  those  poor  log-houses,  on  the  high 
bank  of  the  meadow,  where  is  now  the  western  side  of  the 
street,  near  the  Round  Rock.     This  was  the  only  spring 
then  visited.     The  houses  were  almost  full  of  strangers, 
among  whom  were   several  ladies   and  gentlemen   from 
Albany;  and  we  found  it  almost  impossible  to  obtain  ac- 
commodations, even  for  two  nights.     We  found  the  Round 
Rock  at  that  time  entire ;  the  large  tree  which  some  years 
since  fell  and  cracked  a  fissure  in  it  being  then  standing  near, 
and  the  water,  which  occasionally  overflowed,  and  increased 
the  rock  by  its  deposites,  keeping  the  general  level  three 
or  four  inches  below  the  top.     The  neighbourhood  of  the 
Spring,  like  all  the  country  we  had  seen  for  many  miles, 
was  a  perfect  forest ;  and  there  were  no  habitations  to  be 
seen  in  all  the  vicinity,  except  the  three  log-houses,  which 
afforded  us  little  more  than  a  shelter.     We  arrived  on 
Saturday,  and  left  there  on  Monday  morning  for  Ballston, 
which  we  reached  after  a  short  ride.     But  there  the  ac- 
commodations for  visiters  were  still  less  inviting.     The 
Springs,  of  which  there  were  several,  were  entirely  unpro- 
tected, on  the  borders  of  a  woody  swamp,  and  near  the 
brook,  in  which  we  saw  bubbles  rising  in  several  places 
which  indicated  other  springs.     There  were  two  or  three 
miserable  habitations,  but  none  in  which  a  shelter  could  be 
obtained.    There  was  a  small  hovel,  into  which  some  of 
the  water  was  conducted  for  bathing;  but  as  there  was 
nothing  like  comfort  to  be  found,  we  proceeded  homeward 
after  spending  a  short  time  at  the  place." 

Such  is  a  brief  account  of  a  journey  to  the  Springs  in  tb» 


IN  1701. 


THE  PRESS. 


Ill 


it  some  dwelling  might  be 

Being  happily  relieved  and 
of  the  evening  served  as  a 
\ad  unconsciously  entered  a 
rery  narrow  entrance,  which 
t  tind  again,  and  thus  tlieir 
ined.  Wc  slept  that  night 
)Ut  our  hospitable  hosts  re- 
al Saratoga,  we  found  but 
}or  log-houses,  on  the  high 
now  the  western  side  of  the 

This  was  the  only  spring 
re  almost  full  of  strangers, 
ladies  and  gentlemen  from 
lost  impossible  to  obtain  ac> 
ights.  We  found  the  Round 
arge  tree  which  some  years 
n  it  being  then  standing  near, 
lly  overflowed,  and  increased 
ping  the  general  level  three 

The  neighbourhood  of  the 
e  had  seen  for  many  miles, 
e  were  no  habitations  to  be 
t  the  three  log-houses,  which 

a  shelter.  We  arrived  on 
lunday  morning  for  Ballston, 
tort  ride.  But  there  the  ac- 
ire  still  less  inviting.  The 
several,  were  entirely  unpro- 
voody  swamp,  and  near  the 
les  rising  in  several  places, 
.  There  were  two  or  three 
e  in  which  a  shelter  could  be 
11  hovel,  into  which  some  of 
■  bathing;  but  as  there  was 
,nd,  we  proceeded  homeward 
the  place." 
journey  to  the  Springs  in  tb» 


last  century;  and  how  difficult  it  is  to  realize  that  the 
changCH  which  have  since  occurred  can  have  taken  place 
within  the  life  of  man !  And  yet,  where  do  we  look  with- 
out finding  evidence  of  similar,  if  not  e(iual  alterations,  oftf  a 
eiTectcd  in  a  shorter  period  ? 

On  the  road  up  Connecticut  Kiver,  over  which  I  passed 
at  such  a  rate  as  to  give  me  little  opportunity  to  record  or 
even  to  make  many  remarks,  every  one  must  be  struck  with 
the  size  and  number  of  the  manufactories  which  have  been 
multiplied  and  magnified  to  such  an  extent  all  over  the 
country  within  a  few  years. 

At  *  •  •  •  I  saw  the  name  of  John  Tympan,  an  old 
schoolmate,  on  a  tin  sign  over  the  door  of  a  printing-office  ; 
and  recollecting  that  I  had  heard  of  his  being  the  experienced 
editor  of  the  village  journal,  I  revived  the  acquaintance  of 
past  days,  and  lounged  several  hours  in  his  room  during 
my  stay  in  the  place.  The  conversations  I  there  held  and 
overheard,  with  the  little  I  had  known  of  (he  press  and  its 
appurtenances  (viz.  public  taste  and  such  matters),  in  pre> 
ceding  years,  threw  my  mind  into  a  train  of  thought, 
which,  if  I  were  to  judge  from  the  well-known  soporifio 
qualities  of  Mr.  Tympan's  sheet  which  I  had  in  my  hand, 
was  probably  indulged  in  during  a  short  slumber.  First,  I 
fancied  I  saw  all  the  forms  in  which  the  Chinese  wooden 
stereotype  has  ever  appeared,  and  those  through  which 
have  passed  the  type  of  Europe  since  they  lefl  the  hands 
of  Guttenburg,  Janssoen,  Faust,  and  ShofTer,  till  they 
reached  those  of  Firmin  Didot  and  his  English  rivals.  And 
what  a  mass  was  there !  Centuries  of  black  letter,  sue* 
ceeded  by  the  floods  of  light-faced  type  which  may  be  said 
to  have  been  the  chief  means  of  "  illuminating"  the  world 
since  the  cry  for  knowledge  has  extended  beyond  the  walls 
of  convents.  And  the  sight  may  be  better  imagined  than 
described !  Then  came  a  whole  parque  of  presses,  more 
numerous  than  the  abortive  models  of  machines  in  the 
Patent-office  at  Washington,  presenting  all  possible  applica- 
tions of  the  lever,  screw,  wheel,  weight,  plane,  &e.,  except 
the  most  useful.  There  was  the  old  Kamage  press,  the  iliot 
which  I  recognised  as  an  acquaintance,  and  I  looked  upon 


Xia  ROUTE  UP  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 

iu  lumbering  uprights  and  simple  sweeping  lever  wilh  a  de- 
le ^rre^encefbecause  its  physiognomy  re-ved  the  xm- 
messions  of  childhood,  when  I  had  contemplated  t  as  the 
Sr«!  though  its  plan  is  exploded,  and  the  power  of  muscle 
fnd  tke  ages  of  days'  works'  that  are  now  seen  to  have  been 
lasted  u4n  it,  might  have  made  f.fty  canals  across  Danen. 
Next  camTto  my^iew  the  folios,  the  quartos,  the  octavos, 
and  the  res  of  their  family  down  to  double  twenty-four- 
^os,  with   heir  various  bindings,  gildings,  clasps,  and  em- 

Zs  nTdisplayed,  and  their  fluttering  leaves  showmg  hmt. 
bossmp  mspiaye  ,  ^^^^^  ^^^^^^^ 

Itat  theTght;  asSed  from  the  books  which  boasted 
Ty  of  revivbg  the  fooleries  of  antiquity  with  Us  knowledge. 

to  those  monLents  of  ^o^^""  ^^^^  four^'c bckt 
giant  and  the  pigmy,  the  amaranth  and  the  four-o  clock  He 

"'AoJ;  SSbly  may  the  quaint  word,  of  some  of  the  old 
books  of  mv  vision  be  applied  to  the  present  times . 

"Circa hoc  etiam tempus,"  says Caxtor. (in contmuatume 
Polycronici  Banulphi  Higden,  Anglice  a  se  translat '  qu^ 
cum^pere  ipso  prodiit  Londini  a.  1482  (as)  ^^^j^f  .'e 
"Pirra  hoc  etiam  tempus:— also  abowte  this  tyme  tne 

Almavne.  Why  the  crafte  is  multiplyed  thorugh  the  worme 
JJrry  places,^  bokes  be  hadd  grete  chepe  and  m  grete 
nombre  bycause  of  the  same  crafte. 
Like  as  says  an  "  Anonymus  auctor  in  1457  •-■ 
"  Printerys^of  bokis  wer'this  tyme  mightely  muUephed  m 
Maguncie  Jnd  thurgh  out  the  world;  and  thei  began  fns^ 
andSiev  held  the  craftis.  And  this  time  mony  men  began 
?or  to  be  more  sotell  in  craftis  and  suyfter  than  ever  they 

'^  Aftef'the'se  came  such  »  motley  army  of  mankind  as 
no  masquerade  ever  presented,  comFj,sed  of  the  re^der^  of 
all  ages  and  climes,  of  all  hues  and  characters.  These  1 
cannot  undertake  to  describe:  but  if  it  be  as  amusing  to 
oE  as  it  was  to  myself  to  fancy  their  appearance,  they 
mayagreeably  fill  uj  some  hour  of  leisure  by  recallmg 
them. 


Ainei 
seemed 
flyiag  0 
creakin 
dence  c 
cylinde 
presses 
a  few  V 
and  sor 


Muiic — 
A  Tri 
bratioi 
Massa 

Eve 

and  wa 

ance  ol 

we  are 

sincere! 

structec 

cultivat 

talent 

Germai 

skill  of 

readers 

labour 

overcoi 

marks 

which 

plant  o 

would  1 

m.  'It  in 


nCUT  RIVER. 

3  sweeping  lever  wiih  a  de- 
lysiognomy  revived  the  im- 
had  contemplated  it  as  the 
id,  and  the  power  of  muscle 

are  now  seen  to  have  been 
3  fifty  canals  across  Darien. 
>8,  the  quartos,  the  octavos, 
wn  to  double  twenty-four- 
8,  gildings,  clasps,  and  em- 
tering  leaves  showing  hints 

ideas  floated  through  my 
om  the  books  which  boasted 
intiquity  with  its  knowledge, 
•n  invention,  in  which  the 
inth  and  the  four-o'clock  lie 

words  of  some  of  the  old 
,o  the  present  times ! 
lys  Caxtor.  (in  continuatione 
Anglice  a  se  translati,  qua 

a.  1482  (as)  circa  a.  1455), 
ilso  abowte  this  tyme  the 
rst  founde  in  Magounce  in 
ultiplyed  thorugh  the  worlde 
add  grete  chepe  and  in  grete 
rafte." 
3  auctor"  in  1457: — 

tyme  mightely  raulteplied  in 

world ;  and  thei  began  frist, 
id  this  time  mony  men  began 

and  suyfter  than  ever  they 

motley  army  of  mankind  as 
,  composed  of  the  readers  of 
es  and  characters.  These  I 
:  but  if  it  be  as  amusing  to 
fancy  their  appearance,  they 
hour  of  leisure  by  recalling 


Mv;io. 


113 


America  suddenly  came  to  mind ;  and  with  it  the  sky 
seemed  darkened  with  a  cloud  of  newspapers,  which  were 
flyiag  oflf  night  and  day  from  thousands  of  presses,  whose 
creaking,  clanking,  rattling,  hissing,  and  groaning  gave  evi- 
dence of  the  gigantic  strife  going  on  around  us,  between  the 
cylinder  machines  of  latest  invention  and  the  various  lever- 
presses  which  call  old  Ramage  their  grandfather,  with  not 
a  few  which  have  steam  or  mules  for  their  moving-power, 
and  some  with  asses  for  their  guides. 


CHAPTER  XIV. 

Muiic — New-England  Villages  cuntrastcd  with  Italy  on  this  subject— 
A  Traveller  in  search  of  Health — Burying-grounds — Rural  Cele- 
bration of  Independence  at  Northampton — Amherst — Academies  of 
Massachusetts — Exhibition. 

Every  Sabbath  on  my  journey  I  spent  at  some  village, 
and  was  usually  much  gratified  at  church  with  the  perform- 
ance of  the  choirs.  There  is  scarcely  any  thing  in  which 
we  are  more  apt  to  indulge  false  ideas  than  music.  I  do 
sincerely  believe  that  we  are  rather  discouraged  thpn  in- 
structed or  incited  by  the  example  of  foreign  nations  who 
cultivate  this  delightful  art.  Writers  tell  us  of  the  musical 
talent  of  the  common  people  of  Italy,  Switzerland,  and 
Germany;  the  genius  of  their  composers,  and  the  native 
skill  of  many  Europeans  with  musical  instruments.  Common 
readers,  therefore,  are  apt  to  believe  that  our  countrymen 
labour  under  some  natural  deficiency,  which  is  not  to  be 
overconje.  When  they  are  further  complimented  with  re- 
marks on  the  want  of  ear  in  America,  or  the  length  of  time 
which  will  be  required  to  train  up  a  taste  for  music,  like  a 
plant  of  slow  growth,  many  of  them  believe  that  every  effort 
would  be  in  vain,  and  that  every  hope  of  seeing  an  improve- 
m.  at  in  their  day  would  be  presumptuous.    We  must  there- 


114 


ROrTE  UP  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


fore  transplant  sune  languishing  Italian  troupe  from  the 
sties  of  foreign  green-rooms,  or  tow  across  the  Atlantic 
some  second-rate  puffer,  as  windy  as  a  porpoise,  to  howl 
and  make  the  grimaces  of  the  rack,  and  set  our  pretenders 
in  ecstasies.     Now  all  this  is  founded  on  mere  mistake. 

In  the  first  place,  the  people  of  Italy,  who  have  the  credit 
of  being  refined  in  throat  and  ear  beyond  all  the  rest  of  the 
race  of  men,  have  no  more  taste  than  you  or  I,  nor  half  as 
much.     They  listen  to  street  musicians  whom  we  could 
never  tolerate  ;  and  as  for  the  performances  of  their  masters, 
they  never  hear  them.     The  common  people  of  Italy  have 
no  training  in  music  except  the  chanting  in  their  churches 
and  funeral  processions,  and  the  strumming  of  guitars  in  the 
streets.     The  plain  matter  of  fact  is,  divesting  the  subject 
of  all  poetry — that  is,  of  all  falsehood  or  ignorance— that 
our   farmers'  sons    and  daughters,  wherever  they  attend 
singing-schools,  join  the    church  choir,  and  practise,    as 
they  generally  do,  at  home,  enjoy  advantages  far  superior  to 
those  of  the  common  people  of  Italy,  who  are  too  ignorant, 
poor,  and  degraded  to  have  such  advantages  in  their  reach, 
or  to  appreciate  them  if  they  had.    They  are  not  musicians, 
they  do  not  sing  in  their  churches,  the  music  there  being 
conducted  by  hired  performers,  of  a  character  very  different 
from  our  choirs  of  volunteers  I  assure  you,  and  they  are  not 
familiarized  with  refined  music.    Here  is  enough  to  kill  one 
prejudice.     As  to  our  natural  want  of  genius  or  talent,  the 
presumption  is  entirely  gratuitous,  and  we  may  challenge 
the  proof,  rejecting  the  idea  in  toto  until  it  be  produced. 
And  so  with  the  doctrine  that  our  progress  in  this  or  any 
other  improvement  must  be  slow,  because  this  or  that  Eu- 
ropean nation  chose  to  be  five  or  ten  centuries  ir  "merging 
from  semi-barbarism — this  is  as  idle  as  the  other,  in  all  ap- 
plications.    Such  a  doctrine,  although  it  is  swallowed  and 
acted  upon  every  day  by  multitudes  of  our  intelligent  coun- 
trymen, ought  to  be  rejected,  like  certain  other  productions 
of  the  Old  World  which  are  unsuited  to  our  stomachs. 
There  is  no  reason  why  we  should  not  introduce  any  im- 
prov  ?ment,  physical  or  moral,  to  be  found  on  earth,  com- 
patible with  our  state  of  society.     Whoever  teaches  other- 


wise 

and  r< 

tions 

need; 

earne 

no  ar 

divisi( 

impen 

of  th( 

direct 

world, 

encou 

Mu 

speak 

sion  tl 

toleral 

When 

ing,  in 

Ameri 

be  am 

farm 

from  t 

we  dc 

have  T 

thougl 

come  ' 

by  per 

repulsi 

enrich 

haven 

pleasu 

with  tl 

said  th 

centuri 

state  c 

Alth 

cultivg 

done  y 

on  its  ] 


5TICUT  RIVBR. 

ing  Italian  troupe  from  the 
or  tow  across  the  Atlantic 
indy  as  a  porpoise,  to  howl 
rack,  and  set  our  pretenders 
bunded  on  mere  mistake, 
of  Italy,  who  have  the  credit 
ar  beyond  all  the  rest  of  the 
te  than  you  or  I,  nor  half  as 
musicians  whom  we  could 
erformances  of  their  masters, 
Dmmon  people  of  Italy  have 
!  chanting  in  their  churches 
e  strumming  of  guitars  in  the 
fact  is,  divesting  the  subject 
falsehood  or  ignorance — that 
liters,  wherever  they  attend 
rch  choir,  and  practise,   as 
)y  advantages  far  superior  to 
'  Italy,  who  are  too  ignorant, 
:h  advantages  in  their  reach, 
id.    They  are  not  musicians, 
irches,  the  music  there  being 
,  of  a  character  very  different 
assure  you,  and  they  are  not 
.    Here  is  enough  to  kill  one 
want  of  genius  or  talent,  the 
tons,  and  we  may  challenge 
in  toto  until  it  be  produced, 
our  progress  in  this  or  any 
)w,  because  this  or  that  Eu- 
or  ten  centuries  ir  "merging 
is  idle  as  the  other,  in  all  ap- 
ilthough  it  is  swallowed  and 
itudes  of  our  intelligent  coun- 
like  certain  other  productions 
3  unsuited  to  our  stomachs, 
hould  not  introduce  any  im- 
,  to  be  found  on  earth,  com- 
ity.    Whoever  teaches  other- 


Mvsia 


IIS 


wise  teaches  heresy.  We  have  superior  means,  facilities, 
and  resources,  if  ihey  were  properly  appreciated,  to  the  na- 
tions of  Europe  in  general,  to  effect  any  improvement  we 
need ;  and  it  is  only  to  believe  it,  and  set  ourselves  in 
earnest  about  it,  and  the  thing  would  be  done.  We  have 
no  arbitrary  government  to  Ibrbid  us,  no  irreconcileable 
divisions  in  society  to  impede  a  general  co-operation,  no 
impenetrable  cloud  of  ignorance  over  the  public,  no  lack 
of  the  machinery  of  civilization  to  rouse  the  mind  or  to 
direct  it,  no  want  of  intercourse  with  other  quarters  of  the 
world,  no  scarcity  of  enterprise  in  undertaking,  or  of 
encouragement  in  success. 

Music  has  led  me  to  these  general  remarks,  because  in 
speaking  of  this  art  I  was  forced  to  lament  in  her  depres- 
sion  the  influence  of  prejudices  totally  unfounded,  and  in- 
tolerably discreditable  to  our  intelligence  and  feelings. 
Where  do  we  go  without  hearing  that  divine  maid  complain- 
ing, in  some  sick  and  mournful  ditty,  of  the  injustice  of 
Americans  ?  And  the  other  fine  arts,  refining  as  they  might 
be  among  us,  join  in  the  same  plaintive  tone.  Let  us  not  so 
far  ill  treat  these  our  true  friends,  as  to  turn  away  any  longer 
from  their  calls  and  requests.  Landing  upon  our  shores, 
we  do  not  meet  them  with  smiles  and  welcome.  They 
have  reason  to  look  here  for  an  asylum  and  a  home;  but 
though  among  the  fairest  exiles  from  the  old  world,  they 
come  with  their  loveliness  somewhat  deformed  or  saddened 
by  persecution  or  restrictions  contrary  to  their  nature,  we 
repulse  them  from  our  society,  which  they  might  so  greatly 
enrich  and  adorn.  «  This  is  not  the  land  for  the  arts— we 
have  no  native  talent,  genius,  or  taste."  Our  eyes  look  with 
pleasure  on  the  beauties  of  nature,  and  our  ears  are  pleased 
with  the  music  of  our  forests ;  but  wise  Europeans  have 
said  that  we  are  insensible  to  beauty  and  grace,  and  that 
centuries  must  pass  before  we  can  hope  to  arrive  at  that 
state  of  refinement  of  which  they  boast. 

Although  the  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  our  country  have 
cultivated  sacred  music  for  half  a  century,  more  has  been 
done  within  two  or  three  years  to  place  this  delightful  art 
on  its  proper  footing  than  ever  before.    A  society  has  been 


116 


ROUTE  UP  CONNECTICUT  RIVIR. 


\ 


formed  in  Boston,  called  the  Massachusetts  Academy  of 
Music,  by  which  the  German  system  of  juvenile  and  popular 
instruction  has  been  introduced  in  several  of  our  cities,  and 
to  some  extent  in  the  country,  chiefly  through  Messrs. 
Mason  and  Ives  ;  the  success  has  been  astonishing  to  those 
who  have  embraced  the  common  erroneous  views  about 
national  genius,  native  inferiority,  &c.,  &c.  This  important 
step,  to  which  many  of  the  rising  generation  will  owe  great 
sources  of  pleasure  for  life,  has  been  primarily  due  to  Mr. 
Woodbridge,  the  enlightened,  philanthropic,  and  persevering 
editor  of  the  American  Annals  of  Education ;  who,  afler 
five  years  spent  in  Europe  among  the  literary  men  and  in- 
stitutions of  the  Old  World,  returned  to  his  native  country 
three  or  four  years  since  to  devote  himself  to  the  diffusion 
of  knowledge,  on  some  of  the  most  important  subjects,  for 
the  intellectual  and  moral  benefit  of  America.  All  that  a 
friend  of  the  country  need  wish  is,  that  he  may  impress  us 
all  with  the  great  truths  he  proclaims  as  strongly  as  he  has 
impressed  some  parents  with  the  fact  that  their  children 
have  flutes  and  organs  in  their  throats  which  may  be  very 
sweetly  and  very  cheaply  played  upon. 

A  young  man,  of  sallow  complexion  and  emaciated  ap- 
pearance, who  was  travelling  for  his  health,  was  on  the 
route  with  me.  He  had  enjoyed  no  advantages  of  educa- 
tion superior  to  those  of  a  district  school,  until  the  clergy- 
man of  the  village,  perceiving  in  him  that  insatiable  thirst 
for  knowledge  which  I  have  so  often  observed  in  the  young 
when  possessed  of  true  piety,  proposed  that  he  should  pre- 
pare for  the  desk,  and  ofl'ered  him  gratuitous  instruction. 
He  was  the  favourite  of  the  whole  town,  as  I  learned  from 
other  lips  than  his  own,  not  on  account  of  any  external 
grace  or  beauty,  for  in  those  he  was  far  from  being  rich ; 
but  because  his  character  was  of  an  elevated  kind,  and  his 
life  one  of  the  most  blameless  and  honourable.  No  friendly 
office  in  his  power  was  withholden  from  anybody;  and  how 
many  times  in  a  year  may  a  truly  benevolent  man  confer 
kindness,  if  he  but  seeks  for  opportunities  !  Every  one  in 
such  a  village  of  farmers  knew  what  his  neighbours  did, 
without  inquiring  from  mere  idle  curiosity.     Of  course  the 


«arly 
dutifu 
were 
out  tl 
secon 
self, 
larly 
stron; 
sion, 
His  I 
abour 
benev 
heart, 
who  1 
urged 
part  c 
ing  St 
a  wa^ 
for  he 
may  ] 
native 
Th 
which 
nothii 
dices 
ward 
assist 
couraj 
anddi 
ourc( 
but  is 
of  not 
differi 
of  th< 
hadb 
that  tl 
spect 
some 
notion 


ncCT  RIVIR. 

lassachusetts  Academy  of 
Item  of  juvenile  and  popular 
in  several  of  our  cities,  and 
r,  chiefly  through  Messrs. 
18  been  astonishing  to  those 
on  erroneous  views  about 
',  (Sic,  &c.  This  important 
g  generation  will  owe  great 
i  been  primarily  due  to  Mr. 
ilanthropic,  and  persevering 

of  Education;  who,  afler 
ig  the  literary  men  and  in- 
irned  to  his  native  country 
ote  himself  to  the  diffusion 
most  important  subjects,  for 
efit  of  America.  All  that  a 
is,  that  he  may  impress  us 
laims  as  strongly  as  he  has 
the  fact  that  their  children 

throats  which  may  be  very 
d  upon. 

iplexion  and  emaciated  ap* 
for  his  health,  was  on  the 
3d  no  advantages  of  educa- 
rict  school,  until  the  clergy- 
n  him  that  insatiable  thirst 
often  observed  in  the  young 
iroposed  that  he  should  pre- 

him  gratuitous  instruction, 
lole  town,  as  I  learned  from 
on  account  of  any  external 
e  was  far  from  being  rich ; 
of  an  elevated  kind,  and  his 
nd  honourable.  No  friendly 
len  from  anybody;  and  how 
ruly  benevolent  man  confer 
pportunities  !  Every  one  in 
w  what  his  neighbours  did, 
e  curiosity.     Of  course  the 


ItESPECTABIUTV  OF  INDUSTRY. 


nv 


«arly  humble  life  of  this  youth  were  known,  as  well  as  his 
dutiful  conduct  towards  his  mother ;  and  all  witnessed  and 
were  surprised  at  th*  mental  efl^orts  it  required  in  him,  with- 
out the  aid  of  conceit  or  the  show  of  arrogance,  to  the 
second  rank  in  society;  that  is,  next  the  clergyman  him- 
self. As  his  substitute,  he  often  was  called  to  act,  particu- 
larly in  the  Sunday-schools.  I  understood  that  he  felt  a 
strong  desire  to  devote  himself  for  life  to  some  distant  mis- 
sion, but  had  not  yet  formed  any  ultimate  determination. 
His  knowledge  of  such  passing  information,  however,  as 
abounds  in  the  reports  and  publications  of  religious  and 
benevolent  societies,  had  at  once  expanded  his  mind  and  his 
heart,  and  rendered  him  an  instructive  companion  to  those 
who  had  a  taste  on  such  subjects.  He  had  therefore  been 
urged  by  his  townsmen  to  take  a  journey  to  a  more  healthy 
part  of  the  country,  when  he  was  found  to  be  in  a  threaten- 
ing state,  and  was  furnished  by  them  with  an  old  horse  and 
a  wagon,  and  such  pecuniary  means  as  he  stood  in  need  of; 
for  he  was  looked  upon  as  a  kind  of  public  property,  and 
may  yet  live  and  recover,  I  hope,  to  prove  an  honour  to  his 
native  village. 

This  case  I  mention  as  a  specimen  of  one  of  the  ways  by 
which  deserving  youths  sometimes  rise  among  us.  As 
nothing  in  the  institutions  of  the  country,  or  in  the  preju- 
dices of  the  people  forbids  the  exaltation  of  virtue,  her  up- 
ward tendency  is  in  a  thonsand  cases  permitted  and  even 
assisted,  when  in  other  countries  it  would  be  hopelessly  dis- 
couraged or  entirely  suppressed.  The  road  to  usefulness 
and  distinction  is  not  opened  to  persons  of  all  classes,  in 
our  constitution  merely;  it  is  not  only  laid  down  upon  paper, 
but  is  familiarly  known  and  trodden.  Hence  it  is  a  matter 
of  notoriety,  that  not  a  few  of  the  men  now  eminent  in  the 
different  learned  professions,  have  risen  from  the  workshops 
of  the  humbler  branches  of  mechanical  trade  where  they 
had  been  apprenticed.  From  this  fact  it  might  be  presumed 
that  the  useful  arts  would  be  generally  regarded  with  re- 
spect ;  and  this  is  true  to  a  considerable  extent,  although 
some  of  our  luxurious  citizens,  among  their  multiplied  false 
notions,  really  believe  that  there  is  something  in  exercising 

11 


til 


ROVTG  UP  C0NN8CTICUT  RIVER. 


«n  honest  handicrafk  more  degrading  than  idleness  in  its 
genteeler  forms. 

The  burying-grounds  of  New-England  are  among  the 
most  interesting  objects  to  which  the  traveller  can  direct  his 
attention.  Monuments  are  to  be  found,  in  almost  all  the 
older  settlements,  bearing  unequivocal  testimony  to  the 
learning  as  well  as  piety  of  our  ancestors,  and  the  good 
order  which  has  ever  prevailed  in  their  society.  I  wish, 
with  all  my  heart,  that  I  could  refer  to  the  condition  of  these 
venerable  memorials  as  evidence  of  a  becoming  regard  for 
Ihem  among  the  inhabitants,  and  a  proper  care  for  their 
preservation.  Unfortunately,  quite  the  contrary  is  the  case ; 
for  ancient  grave-stones  are  often  allowed  to  become  over- 
thrown by  the  frost,  and  to  lie  covered  with  moss  or  herbage 
from  year  to  year.  One  single  person  in  each  village,  by 
proper  means,  might  incite  the  people  to  keep  their  ceme- 
teries well  enclosed,  and  kept  in  order ;  and  nothing  but  a 
little  spirit  is  wanting  through  the  country  at  large,  to  have 
the  most  venerable  memorials  of  the  dead  preserved  from 
unnecessary  injury  and  from  loss. 

So  closely  connected  are  many  of  these  monuments  with 
important  events  in  the  history  of  the  country,  that  we 
ought  to  use  them  as  practical  assistants  in  the  instruction 
of  the  young;  and  parents  and  teachers  might  communicate 
many  lasting  impressions  to  their  children,  by  visiting  with 
them  the  graves  of  the  good  and  learned  men  of  pre- 
ceding generations,  inviting  iheir  aid  in  deciphering  the  epi- 
taphs, enumerating  their  praiseworthy  deeds,  and  repeating 
some  of  their  virtuous  counsels.  Why  should  such  simple  and 
delightful  modes  and  topics  of  instruction  be  neglected,  while 
much  complicated  and  expensive  machinery  is  employed  to 
fix  the  minds  of  the  young  exclusively  on  distant  nations 
and  countries  ? 

With  thoughts  like  these,  and  with  many  feelings  which 
I  shall  not  attempt  to  express,  I  have  visited  many  of  the 
burying-grounds,  usually  at  morning  or  evening,  when  the 
journey  of  the  day  had  been  performed,  or  before  it  had 
begun  ;  and  thus  1  have  sometimes  obtained  the  knowledge 
of  facts  which  I  had  not  been  able  to  derive  from  living 


sourc 

copiei 

mark 

grouE 

scripl 

positi 

•erve 

Mr./ 

task 

andh 

conta 

genei 

selvei 

la 
most 
field, 
less  t 
this  I 
howe 
taatei 
dencc 

In 
just  c 
bowe 
the  si 
flowe 
neath 
of  th< 
they 
livelic 
so  pi 
woul< 
as  w( 

Nc 
try  h 
Amh( 
grazii 
comn 
one  c 


TICUT  RIVER. 

rading  than  idleness  in  its 

w-England  are  among  the 
\  the  traveller  can  direct  his 
be  found,  in  almost  all  fhe 
quivocal  testimony  to  the 
ir  ancestors,  and  the  good 
d  in  their  society.  I  wish, 
sfer  to  the  condition  of  these 
ce  of  a  becoming  regard  for 
nd  a  proper  care  for  their 
jite  the  contrary  is  the  case ; 
en  allowed  to  become  over- 
jvered  with  moss  or  herbage 
5  person  in  each  village,  by 
people  to  keep  their  ceme- 
n  order ;  and  nothing  but  a 
he  country  at  large,  to  have 
of  the  dead  preserved  from 
ss. 

ny  of  these  monuments  with 
ry  of  the  country,  that  we 

assistants  in  the  instruction 
teachers  might  communicate 
eir  children,  by  visiting  with 
d  and  learned  men  of  pre- 
ir  aid  in  deciphering  the  epi- 
3Worthy  deeds,  and  repeating 

Why  should  such  simple  and 
nstruction  be  neglected,  while 
ive  machinery  is  employed  to 
xclusively  on  distant  nations 

ind  with  many  feelings  which 
I  have  visited  many  of  the 

orning  or  evening,  when  the 
performed,  or  before  it  had 

imes  obtained  the  knowledge 

n  able  to  derive  from  living 


AMHERST. 


110 


sources.  I  might  here  insert  a  few  of  the  epitaphs  which  I 
copied  in  different  places  ;  but  will  merely,  at  present,  re* 
mark,  that  those  who  have  frequent  access  to  old  burying< 
grounds,  may  perform  a  useful  task  by  at  least  copying  in- 
scriptions, and  making  drawings  of  monuments,  and  de- 
positing them  in  some  society  or  institution,  to  be  pre- 
served or  published  for  the  benefit  of  others.  The  Ke«. 
Mr.  Alden,  some  years  since,  undertook  the  useful  and  pious 
task  of  rescuing  the  best  epitaphs  from  loss  and  obliviou, 
and  his  own  memory  should  be  honoured  for  it.  The  book 
containing  his  collection  will  hereafter  be  prized  by  some 
generation  more  worthy  of  its  descent  than  we  show  our- 
selves to  be. 

I  am  obliged  to  pass,  without  remark,  some  of  the  places 
most  worthy  of  notice  to  strangers,  and  among  them  Spring- 
field. I  have  not  leisure  to  insert  all  my  memoranda,  much 
less  to  record  all  the  reflections  which  occurred  to  me  on 
this  or  any  other  part  of  my  interesting  tour.  I  cannot, 
however,  let  Northampton  pass  without  some  allusion  to  the 
tasteful  manner  in  which  the  Anniversary  of  our  Indepen- 
dence is  usually  celebrated  in  that  ancient  and  beautiful  town. 

In  an  orchard  which  extends  to  the  bank  of  a  little  brook, 
just  out  of  sight  from  the  streets  of  the  village,  a  spacious 
bower  is  formed  by  adding  evergreen  bushes  and  vines  to 
the  shade  of  the  trees,  and  sprinkling  the  dark  foliage  with 
flowers.  A  large  table  is  spread  upon  the  smooth  grass  be- 
neath ;  and  as  the  decorations  of  the  place  employ  the  hands 
of  the  fair  the  day  preceding  that  of  the  celebration,  and 
they  preside  at  the  entertainment,  the  scene  is  one  of  the 
liveliest  and  most  appropriate  that  can  be  imagined.  In 
so  pure,  intelligent,  and  polished  a  society,  a  foreigner 
would  find  much  to  instruct  him  in  American  manners, 
as  well  as  to  excite  his  better  feelings. 

No  village  that  I  have  seen  in  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try has  risen  so  fast  to  eminence  as  a  literary  place  as 
Amherst.  I  had  admired  the  bold,  swelling,  and  fertile 
grazing-country,  with  its  fine  views,  while  it  was  only  a 
common  village.  How  great  has  been  the  change !  On 
one  of  the  finest  eminences  stands  the  college,  now  one  of 


'\ 


130 


ROVTE  VP  C0N.4KCTICVT  RITER. 


the  most  flourishing  in  the  Union ;  and  two  academies,  one 
for  the  education  of  females,  are  found  in  other  parts  of  the 
town.     The  academies  of  New-England,  and  particularly 
those  of  Massachusetts,  form  one  of  the  most  important 
branches  of  the  great  machinery  of  public  education.   Their 
history  shows  the  importance  of  making  provision  for  the  in- 
struction of  the  yoimg,  even  if  some  of  the  means  adopted  be 
not  immediately  found  as  useful  as  might  be  desired.     In 
Massachusetts  there  are  sixty-two  academies,  which  derive 
funds  from  various  sources;  twenty-one  of  them  from  a 
township  of  land  each,  in  the  state  of  Maine.     For  some 
years  they  were  generally  in  a  condition  far  from  flourish- 
ing, and  some  in  decay.     Public  opinion  having  since  im- 
proved in  relation   to  instruction,  these  institutions  have 
been  rendered  extremely  efficient  in  affording  it,  and  will 
probably  become  much  more  ao.     There  were  probably 
about  twenty-five  thousand  pupils  in  the  academies  and 
private  schools  of  Massachusetts  in  1832,  out  of  a  popula- 
tion, according  to  the  census  of  that  year,  of  a  little  more 
than  six  hundred  thousand.     Six  of  the  academies  are  de- 
voted exclusively  to  females,  and  many  of  them  have  a 
female  department.     The  branches  of  instruction  and  dis- 
cipline have  been  much  improved,  but  not  a  little  remains 
to  be  done.     One  of  the  greatest  evils  with  many  of  them 
is,  that  they  embrace  many  branches  of  secondary  import- 
ance, even  when  the  pupils  are  to  devote  but  a  few  months  to 
their  studies.    Comparatively  intelligent  as  the  common  peo- 
ple of  this  part  of  the  country  are  supposed  to  be,  they  are 
yet  unable  to  appreciate  the  real  acquisitions  of  their  children, 
or  at  least  generally  apprehend  that  others  cannot.     They 
therefore  demand  visible  and  tangible  signs,  to  indicate  to  the 
senses  what  without  such  aid  might  not  be  discovered  or 
valued.     A  picture  must  be  painted,  a  few  tunes  strummed 
on  the  piano,  or  a  few  words  of  some  foreign  tongue  ac- 
quired, to  bear  witness  to  their  intellectual  progress — to 
show  that  the  teacher  has  returned  to  the  parent  a  quid 
pro  quo — the  value  of  his  money.     1  have  often  seen  such 
things  displayed ;  and  how  much  is  it  like  Hudibraa's  cul- 
prit at  the  bar, — 


ICVT  RITER. 

;  and  two  academies,  one 
found  in  other  parts  of  the 
■England,  and  particularljr 
w  of  the  most  important 
of  public  education.   Their 
nakingf  provision  for  the  in- 
ne  of  the  means  adopted  be 
as  might  be  desired.    In 
'o  academies,  which  derive 
renty-one  of  them  from  a 
ate  of  Maine.     For  some 
condition  far  from  flourish- 
opinion  having  since  im- 
m,  these  institutions  have 
U  in  affording  it,  and  will 
o.     There  were  probably 
)ils  in  the  academies  and 
s  in  1832,  out  of  a  popula- 
r  that  year,  of  a  little  more 
:  of  the  academies  are  de- 
nd  many  of  them  have  a 
hes  of  instruction  and  dis- 
d,  but  not  a  little  remains 
St  evils  with  many  of  them 
iches  of  secondary  import- 
)  devote  but  a  few  montiis  to 
elligent  as  the  common  peo- 
re  supposed  to  be,  they  are 
icquisitions  of  their  children, 
that  others  cannot.     They 
;ible  signs,  to  indicate  to  the 
might  not  be  discovered  or 
ited,  a  few  tunes  strummed 
if  some  foreign  tongue  ac- 
ir  intellectual  progress — to 
irned  to  the  parent  a  quid 
!y.     1  have  often  seen  such 
ih  is  it  like  Hudibras's  cul- 


XXHIBITION  or  AN  ACADBMY. 


Itl 


"  Holding  up  hii  hand 

By  twelve  freeholder*  to  be  acnnn'd, 
That  by  their  ikill  in  palmistry" 

they  might  determine  whether  the  charge  against  him  were 
just  or  not. 

Some  of  the  defects  of  the  system  may  be  seen  at  an  ex. 
hibition,  such  as  I  once  attended,  at  an  academy  on  the  banks 
of  the  Connecticut.    The  burthen  of  the  evening  was  formed 
of  several  dialogues,  or  short  dramatic  pieces,  in  no  way 
suited  to  the  people  or  the  state  of  society.     A  little  art,  I 
think,  might  have  fabricated  good  ones ;  but  we  are  still 
very  dependent  on  foreign  ideas  and  models,  especially  in 
literary  matters.      The  audience  there  assembled  would 
have  listened  with  benefit  to  any  sensible  production.   There 
was  an  old  threadbare  and  antiquated  satire  on  fashions, 
aimed,  like  Sidrophel's  telescope,  at  a  kite  instead  of  a 
star — at  the  forms  of  dress  now  long-forgotten,  instead  of 
any  one  of  the  thousand  follies  we  practise  daily  in  de- 
fiance of  reason— and  applauded  by  the  audience  like  a 
palpable  hit.    'I'he  magnificence  of  ancient  heroes  was  set 
forth ;  addresses  were  made  to  engage  us : — the  Roman 
Senate,  sitting  "in  cold  debate"— (viz.  just  cracking  out 
cheeks  at  old  steeple-crowned  bonnets  and  hooped  petti- 
coats)—" to  sacrifice  our  lives  to  honour."    Then  came  up 
a  fearful  tragedy,  the  heroine  of  which  had  a  provincial 
tone:  "Haow  naow!     Is  that  you.  Roily T    Daniel  and 
the  lions  in  a  calico  den ;  and  Joseph,  with  two  front-teeth 
knocked  out,  a  head  taller  than  all  his  brethren,  and  dressed 
in  a  white  counterpane,  are  all  1  have  to  mention,  in  addition, 
except  the  tune  of  "  Farewell  ye  Green  Fields,"  played  by 
heroes,  orators,  lions,  and  prophets,  at  the  close  of  thi» 
miserable  medley^, 


IV 


'S 


1«2 


CHAPTER  XVI. 

Fcmnle  Character — A  Connecticut  School — Scenery  on  Connecticut 
Kivei—Deerfielil— Turner'*  Falls— Enrly  State  of  the  Country.  ^ 

How  different  are  our  females  from  most  others  in  the 
world !  How  much  is  society  indebted  to  their  influence  ; 
how  large  a  portion  of  our  intelligence,  as  well  as  our  vir- 
tue, do  we  owe  to  them  as  individuals !  What  would  our 
country  be  if  they  were  allowed  less  influence  in  society? 
how  much  like  our  coimtry  might  others  soon  be  if  they  re- 
sembled it  in  this  respect !  In  what  does  the  excellence 
of  our  females  consist,  whence  is  it  derived,  how  may  it 
best  be  extended  and  perpetuated?  Such  questions  as 
these  force  themselves  upon  the  mind  of  a  traveller  in  our 
country ;  and  how  important  is  it  that  we  should  be  able  to 
answer  them ! 

In  what  does  their  excellence  consist  ?  In  every  thing, 
some  would  have  us  believe ;  and  indeed  it  would  be  diffi- 
cult to  find  any  thing  truly  good  of  which  they  are  not  the 
supporters  or  the  patrons,  if  not  the  projectors.  Let  an  in- 
telligent traveller  but  observe,  and  he  will  find  that  wherever 
there  is  an  upward  tendency^  a  refining  process  going  on, 
it  is  promoted  by  them.  They  are  more  dependent  than 
men  for  their  enjoyments  on  the  peace  and  good  order,  as 
well  as  the  intelligence  of  the  society  around  them ;  they 
are  more  trained  to  feelings  of  dependence,  and  therefore 
more  readily  or  more  entirely  cast  their  confidence  on  God. 
They  have  more  leisure  for  reflection,  and  can  j,udge  with 
more  deliberation  and  less  passion  than  men,  while  they 
have  better  opportunities  to  use  such  means  of  self-improve- 
ment as  they  possess.  As  they  converse  more  than  men, 
they  more  frequently  bring  their  own  minds  and  hearts  into 
comparison  with  others,  and  find  stronger  motives  for  ren- 
dering them  worthy  of  inspection. 
The  institutions  of  our  country  have  denied  to  females  the 


AN  OLD^FASHIONKD  SCHOOI.. 


Its 


XVI. 

chool — Scenery  on  Conneeticut 
-Early  Stale  of  the  Country.  ^ 

s  from  most  others  in  the 
ndcbted  to  their  influence  *, 
lligence,  as  well  as  our  vir- 
ividuals !  What  would  our 
d  less  influence  in  society? 
It  others  soon  be  if  they  re- 
i  what  docs  the  excellence 

is  it  derived,  how  may  it 
ated?      Such  questions  as 

mind  of  a  traveller  in  our 
it  that  we  should  be  able  to 

:e  consist  I  In  every  thing, 
ad  indeed  it  would  be  diffi- 

of  which  they  are  not  the 
I  the  projectors.  Let  an  in- 
id  he  will  find  that  wherever 
a  refining  process  going  on, 
y  are  more  dependent  than 
s  peace  and  good  order,  as 
society  around  them ;  they 
r  dependence,  and  therefore 
1st  their  confidence  on  God. 
lection,  and  can  judge  with 
ision  than  men,  while  they 

such  means  of  self-improve- 

f  converse  more  than  men, 

r  own  minds  and  hearts  into 

id  stronger  motives  for  ren- 

)n. 

y  have  denied  to  females  the 


means  of  intellectual  improvement  proportioned  to  their  dc- 
sires,  as  well  as  a  proper  regard  to  their  sex.  In  conse- 
quence, we  find  that  fashion  has  too  extensively  occupied 
the  ground,  and  that  attempts  have  been  made  to  polish  the 
manners  and  to  ensure  external  gr  ices.  The  exaltation 
and  the  influence  of  females  in  our  country  are  owing  chiefly 
to  their  domestic  education ;  for  none  other  worthy  of  the 
name  is  yet  afforded  them,  with  a  very  few  and  limited 
exceptions.  Our  best  men,  indeed,  have  been,  to  a  great 
extent,  moulded  at  home,  into  forms  in  which  they  have  only 
expanded  in  after-life.  If  there  ever  was  a  country  in  which 
female  influence  was  exercised  in  proportion  to  its  value,  it 
is  our  own.  And  what  is  the  result?  Ask  the  man  whose 
early  instructions  and  examples  have  implanted  and  cher- 
ished every  good  thing  which  his  mind  and  heart  contain,  and 
whose  influence  longest  remains,  even  after  death  has  re- 
moved its  source  from  his  sight.  Inquire  of  the  father  why 
he  labours  more  cheerfully,  values  his  own  character  more 
highly,  takes  greater  pleasure  in  home,  than  the  men  of 
other  countries.  Look  at  our  books  and  newspapers,  and 
see  why  they  are  not  less  pure  than  they  are.  You  will 
find,  if  you  have  the  knowledge  and  the  means  necessary  to 
come  at  the  facts,  that  woman  is  exercising  a  control  and 
direction  of  a  most  extensive  and  salutary  kind  on  society. 
Look  where  you  will,  if  you  see  aright,  wherever  good  is  to 
be  obtained  or  to  be  done,  or  evil  prevented,  you  will  find 
her  or  her  influence. 

In  one  of  the  towns  in  Connecticut  (I  will  not  at  present 
say  which,  although  I  am  now  out  of  the  state),  I  stepped 
for  a  few  minutes  into  a  school-house  one  day,  and  was 
saluted  by  such  a  confused  sound  of  voices  that  I  hardly 
could  remember  where  I  was.  The  teacher  was  mending 
pens  for  one  class,  which  was  sitting  idle ;  hearing  another 
■pell ;  calling  to  a  covey  of  small  boys  to  be  quiet,  who  had 
nothing  to  do  but  make  mischief;  watching  a  big  rogue  who 
had  been  placed  standing  on  a  bench  in  the  middle  of  the 
room  for  punishment ;  and  to  many  little  ones  passionately 
answering  questions  of  "May  I  go  out?"  "May  I  go 
homer     "Shan't  Johnny  be  still?"    "May  I  drink'" 


tM 


ROUTI  VP  CONNICTICUT  RITIR. 


'\ 


My  entrance  checked  the  din,  and  allowed  the  teacher  an 
opportunity  to  raitip  an  unavailing  complaint  of  the  total  in- 
diflerence  of  the  public  towards  the  school,  the  nf  ^'lect  and 
contempt  to  which  those  are  condemned,  by  universal  con- 
tent, who  undertake  the  inatruttion  of  the  younf^ ;  the 
manner  in  which  the  objects  of  education  are  undernitcd, 
even  by  the  best  members  of  the  community,  and  the  innu- 
merable evils  which  in  this  state  of  tilings  befall  the  children, 
the  parents,  and  the  public. 

Is  it  possible,  thought  I,  that  in  old  Connecticut,  with  her 
two  millions  of  Hchool-fund,  the  devotion  of  her  fathers  and 
many  of  her  children  to  literature  and  general  intelligence, 
with  all  her  influence  thus  gained  abroad,  and  the  reputation 
she  enjoys  fur  fostering  education,  there  can  be  a  school  like 
this  T  Much  to  my  surprise,  however,  I  learnt  that  there 
are  many  more  which  are  not  superior  to  it.  And  why  is 
it?  I  afterwards  conversed  with  individuals  of  the  highest 
character  and  influence  in  the  place,  men  of  education,  and 
even  literary  distinction,  who  had,  I  doubt  not,  made  public 
expressions  in  favour  of  the  universal  diffusion  of  know- 
ledge ;  and  yet  not  one  of  them  could  give  me  any  real  in- 
formation in  relation  to  the  public  schools.  They  thought 
them  indispensable  appendages  to  society,  or  rather  the 
ground-work  of  intelligence;  and  believed  they  required 
great  and  immediate  improvement.  But  what  were  their 
excellencies  or  deficiencies,  or  by  what  means  they  might 
be  improved,  they  seemed  neither  to  know  nor  greatly  to 
care.  Indeed,  they  generally  had  not  any  certain  knowledge 
of  the  number  of  the  schools,  their  location,  number  of  pupils, 
or  course  of  studies.  Those  who  had  attended  to  instruction 
in  any  form,  had  devoted  a  little  time  to  the  higher  schools 
in  the  place,  at  which  a  small  number  of  the  wealthier 
parents  had  their  sons  and  daughters ;  and  although  they 
had  succeeded  in  placing  them  on  a  most  excellent  footing, 
they  had  never  thought  how  easily  they  might  confer  equal 
benefits  on  a  far  more  numerous  and  more  needy  class. 
They  had  never  considered  how  important  it  is  to  the  moral 
character  of  children,  as  well  as  to  their  progress  in  know- 


ledge, tl 

occupie( 

teacher, 

of  a  fe' 

whether 

would  n 

to  vary 

only  ch( 

or  doing 

difl'erent 

might  b( 

the  foun 

had  nevi 

lawyer, 

teachers 

ized  by  s 

ledge  in 

mon  sch 

more  sei 

branch  o 

The  s 

variety,  i 

general  f 

breadths 

and  in  su 

diflferent 

beds  of 

hills  or  n 

the  high 

them  aga 

they  son 

meadows 

some  casi 

other  sea 

among  tl 

sometime! 

notched  tl 

tions  like 

over  the 


riCUT  RITIR. 

and  allowed  the  teacher  an 
ig  (■unipliiint  of  the  total  in- 
the  school,  the  nf  ^')e<:t  and 
idemned,  by  universal  con- 
ictiun  of  the  younf^ ;  the 
education  are  undernitcd, 
a  community,  and  the  innu- 
a(  tilings  befall  the  children, 

n  old  Connecticut,  with  her 
devotion  of  her  fathers  and 
ro  and  general  intelligence, 
I  abroad,  and  the  reputation 
n,  there  can  be  a  school  like 
owever,  I  leiirnt  that  there 
superior  to  it.  And  why  is 
h  individuals  of  the  highest 
face,  men  of  education,  and 
d,  I  doubt  not,  made  public 
iversal  diifusion  of  know- 
could  give  me  any  real  in- 
lic  schools.  They  thought 
to  society,  or  rather  the 
ind  believed  they  required 
ent.  But  what  were  their 
)y  what  means  they  might 
ler  to  know  nor  greatly  to 
d  not  any  certain  knowledge 
r  location,  number  of  pupils, 

0  had  attended  to  instruction 

1  time  to  the  higher  schools 
I  number  of  the  wealthier 
ghters  ;  and  although  they 
)n  a  most  excellent  footing, 
lily  they  might  confer  equal 
)UB  and  more  needy  class, 
important  it  is  to  the  moral 
I  to  their  progress  in  know- 


■CBNtRT. 


138 


ledge,  thai  they  should  be  kept  constantly  and  agreeably 
occupied  in  school,  or  what  aid  might  be  afforded  to  the 
teacher,  in  discipline  and  instruction,  by  the  introduction 
k^i.        e"y  improvements.     They  had  never  inquired 
whether  a  map,  an  enumeration  frame,  or  a  black  board 
would  not  be  a  valuable  acquisition,  and  afford  opportunities 
to  vary  agreeably  the  dry  routine  of  the  day,  in  which  the 
only  changes  often  are  from  doing  little  to  doing  nothing, 
or  domg  wrong.     They  had  never  thought  that  a  few  bits  of 
different  kinds  of  wood  or  stone,  or  a  few  shefls  or  leaves, 
might  be  occasionally  exhibited  with  advantage,  and  made 
the  foundation  of  a  useful  lecture  of  ten  minutes.     They 
had  never  reflected  how  a  frequent  visit  from  a  clergyman, 
lawyer,  physician,  or  merchant  might  encourage  and  gratify 
teachers  and  pupils ;  or  how  a  meeting  of  teachers,  patron- 
ized by  some  of  the  influential  inhabitants,  might  raise  know- 
ledge m  public  estimation  by  raising  its  ministers,  the  com- 
mon school-masters.     I  found  a  few  persons  who  seemed 
more  sensible,  and  who  had  taken  active  measures  in  one 
branch  of  this  subject :  they  were  ladies. 

The  scenery  of  Connecticut  River  presents  a  constant 
variety,  from  the  intermingling  and  alternations  of  ite  few 
general  features.    These  are,  the  fertile  meadows  of  different 
breadths  which  line  its  banks  in  so  many  parts  of  its  course, 
and  in  some  places  form  two  or  three  successive  levels  of 
different  elevations,  which  arc  supposed  to  have  been  the 
beds  of  lakes  successively  drained ;  the  nplands  and  the 
hills  or  mountains.     The  lowest  levels  are  overflown  by 
the  high  floods  of  the  spring  and  autumn,  which  convert 
them  again  into  lakes,  and  leave  a  rich  deposite,  though 
they  sometimes   destroy   extensive   crops.      The    second 
meadows  or  the  uplands  then  become  the  shores,  or  in 
some  cases  islands  ;  and  boats  often  float  where,  during  the 
other  seasons,  the  cattle  feed  in  droves,  or  draw  the  cart 
among   the  hay  or  corn-fields.      The   higher  levels    are 
sometimes  channelled  by  rills  of  water,  which  have  deeply 
notched  their  edges  in  the  course  of  time,  and  left  projec- 
tions like  the  salient  angles  of  gigantic  fortresses,  almost 
over  the   head  of  the  traveller  on  the  meadows  below, 


ise 


ROVTE  UP  CONNBCTICIJT  RITKK. 


and  preaenting  a  pleasing  variety  of  foliage  and  crops. 
The  light  at  morning  and  evening,  the  winter's  snow,  the 
verdure  of  summer,  and  the  hues  of  autumn,  add  their  innu- 
merable changes,  so  that  some  of  the  pleasantest  of  the 
scenes  may  be  said  to  be  hardly  the  same  in  appearance  at 
any  two  visits.  The  trees  of  the  groves,  which  are  thinly 
■cattered  over  the  lower  levels,  are  generally  of  various  de- 
ciduous species,  and  afford  a  rich  intermixture  of  hues  in 
autumn ;  thus  the  early  frosts  often  tinge  the  course  of  the 
stream  with  yellow  and  red,  while  the  uplands  are  still 
covered  with  deep  green.  The  young  crops,  presenting 
their  countless  rows  over  the  level  surface  of  the  meadows 
in  the  sloping  light,  offered  me  one  of  the  richest  scenes  of 
the  kind  I  ever  witr  essed,  as  I  pursued  my  way  alone  to- 
wards Deerfield. 

To  one  familiar  with  the  history  of  this  part  of  the  coun- 
try, the  journey  up  Connecticut  River  is  doubly  interesting ; 
and,  during  my  short  stay  at  Deerfield,  I  was  more  occupied 
with  recollections  of  the  past  than  elsewhere.  This  is  one 
of  the  old  settlements,  thougli  but  of  the  second  epoch,  and 
retains  more  traditions  of  early  events  than  any  other  I  am 
acquainted  with.  When  the  English  from  Massachusetts  Bay 
occupied  Saybrook  Fort,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river,  in  1635, 
and  began  the  settlement  of  Wethersfield,  Hartford,  and 
Windsor,  in  the  following  years,  little  was  known  of  the 
stream  above,  except  that  the  Indians  reported  that  they  used 
it  in  their  canoe  navigation  to  Canada,  by  making  a  portage 
between  Onion  River  and  the  waters  of  Lake  Champlain. 
Northampton,  Hadley,  and  Greenfield  were  early  settled ; 
and  in  1G60  were  greatly  harassed  by  the  Indians  in 
Philip's  war.  In  the  meadow,  which  I  passed  through 
in  approaching  this  pleasant  village,  ambushes  have  been 
repeatedly  laid  by  the  wily  enemy  in  former  times,  desperate 
contests  have  occurred,  and  not  a  little  blood  has  been  shed. 
At  a  visit  to  the  place  several  years  ago,  I  examined  the  old 
house,  the  only  one  which  now  remains  of  those  erected  at 
the  first  settlement,  or  previously  to  1704  ;  the  others,  ex- 
cept one  besides,  having  been  taken  and  burnt.  The  inhabit- 
ants of  this  house  defended  it  a  long  time,  until  the  savages 


found 

fasten 

the  h( 

in  the 

hole  ( 

tomal 

made 

right 

neck 

bed. 

•n 

secon 

sprinj 

scent 

equal 

are  tl 

isolat 

Fort, 

who 

from 

learn 

deriv 

date, 

encrf 

Fr 

the( 

Phili 

point 

a  roil 

seen 

term 

itsell 

low, 

forty 

supp 

heed 

the 

driv< 

nigh 


NBCTICWT  RITKR. 

variety  of  foliage  and  crops, 
evening,  the  winter's  snow,  the 
hues  of  autumn,  add  their  innu- 
ome  of  the  pleasantest  of  the 
rdly  the  same  in  appearance  at 
if  the  groves,  which  are  thinly 
;l9,  are  generally  of  various  de- 
\  rich  intermixture  of  hues  in 
ts  often  tinge  the  course  of  the 
d,  while  the  uplands  are  still 
The  young  crops,  presenting 
5  level  surface  of  the  meadows 
me  one  of  the  richest  scenes  of 
LS  I  pursued  my  way  alone  to- 

history  of  this  part  of  the  coun- 
cut  River  is  doubly  interesting ; 
Deerfield,  I  was  more  occupied 
it  than  elsewhere.  This  is  one 
[h  but  of  the  second  epoch,  and 
irly  events  than  any  other  I  am 
Snglishfrom  Massachusetts  Bay 
the  mouth  of  the  river,  in  1635, 
of  Wethersfield,  Hartford,  and 
years,  little  was  known  of  the 
e  Indians  reported  that  they  used 
to  Canada,  by  making  a  portage 
ihe  waters  of  Lake  Champlain. 
Greenfield  were  early  settled ; 
f  harassed  by  the  Indians  in 
idow,  which  I  passed  through 
It  village,  ambushes  have  been 
inemy  in  former  times,  desperate 
not  a  little  blood  has  been  shed, 
iil  years  ago,  I  examined  the  old 
now  remains  of  those  erected  at 
iriously  to  1704  ;  the  others,  ex- 
in  taken  and  burnt.  The  inhabit- 
it  a  long  time,  until  the  savages 


INDIAN  BATTLB. 


ttr 


found  entrance  through  the  back  door,  which  was  left  un- 
fastened by  a  neighbour's  son,  a  boy,  who  having  slept  in 
the  house  on  some  account,  took  an  opportunity  to  leave  it 
in  the  midst  of  the  fight,  hoping  to  find  his  parents.  The 
hole  cut  through  the  front  door  by  the  Indians  with  their 
tomahawks  is  slrll  to  be  seen,  as  well  as  some  of  the  holes 
made  by  bullets  which  they  fired  into  the  rooms  on  the 
right  and  left  at  hazard.  One  of  these  passed  through  the 
neck  of  a  female,  and  killed  her  as  she  was  sitting  in  her 
bed. 

The  uplands  rise  abruptly  on  the  east,  from  the  beautiful 
second  level  on  which  the  village  is  built.  Three  or  four 
springs,  which  have  trickled  for  ages  down  the  steep  de- 
scent, appear  to  have  cut  as  many  deep  channels,  at  nearly 
equal  distances,  in  the  face  of  the  hill.  Several  projection* 
are  thus  left,  which  from  some  points  of  view  appear  like 
isolated  eminences.  One  of  these,  called  the  Mohawk 
Fort,  I  ascended  with  an  esteemed  friend  from  the  village, 
who  pointed  out  many  spots  which  had  interest  in  my  eyes 
from  their  connexion  with  early  events.  From  him  I  also 
learned,  that  the  spot  on  which  we  stood  is  reported  to  have 
derivjed  its  name  from  having  been  occupied,  at  an  uncertain 
date,  by  the  Mohawks,  who  are  known  to  have  made  great 
encroachments  on  the  Indians  of  Connecticut  River. 

From  Deerfield  I  pursued  the  road  to  Turner's  Falls,  on 
the  Connecticut,  the  scene  of  the  final  overthrow  of  King 
Philip's  power.  The  river  comes  sweeping  slowly  round  a 
point,  with  a  tranquil  surface,  and  passing  at  the  base  of 
a  round  hill  of  sand,  with  a  narrow  swamp  on  two  sides, 
seems  to  one  descending  its  current  to  flow  on  without  in- 
terruption to  a  long  mountainous  range,  which  here  presents 
itself  running  north  and  south.  At  a  quarter  of  a  mile  be- 
low, however,  it  makes  a  perpendicular  descent  of  about 
forty  feet,  down  which,  before  the  dam  was  erected  for  the 
supply  of  a  canal  of  a  few  miles,  any  thing  approaching 
heedlessly  went  to  certain  destruction.  The  sand-hill  was 
the  camp  or  fort  of  Philip's  Indians  after  they  had  been 
driven  from  the  old  settlements  on  the  coast ;  and  during  a 
night  of  feasting,  thev  were  surprised  by  a  small  body  of 


IS. 


Its 


ROUTE  UP  CONNKCTICVT  RIVER. 


volunteers  from  the  towns,  principally  from  Northampton, 
and  many  of  them  destroyed.  Great  numbers,  jumping  into 
their  canoes  without  their  paddles,  went  over  the  falls. 
Some  of  the  assailants,  however,  were  killed,  principally  in 
the  retreat,  during  which  they  were  hard  pressed  by  the 
rallying  savages.  The  bones  of  a  man  were  found  a  few 
years  ago,  in  a  secluded  spot  among  the  rocks  below  the 
falls,  with  the  remains  of  a  musket,  and  a  number  of  silver 
coins  of  a  period  not  later  than  the  date  of  this  battle  :  were 
doubtless  the  remains  of  some  soldier  engaged  in  it. 

Hawing  crcsed  the  ferry  to  the  foot  of  the  hill,  I  ex- 
amined the  situation  of  the  fort,  deserted  so  long,  picked 
up  a  few  arrow-heads  of  stone,  and  bones,  took  many  fine 
glimpses  and  several  sketches  near  the  falls,  and  mounting 
my  horse,  proceeded  by  an  unfrequented  route  to  Bernards- 
ton,  where  I  proposed  to  spend  the  night.  The  landlord 
teemed  obliging ;  and  while  my  horse  was  receiving  the  at- 
tentions of  his  boy,  I  took  my  seat  by  a  fire.  1  had  just 
begun  to  feel  impatient  at  not  seeing  any  preparations 
making  for  my  tea-table,  when  he  came  to  invite  me  into  an 
interior  room,  if  I  chose  to  sit  by  the  family  fireside.  I 
cheerfully  assented,  and  spent  the  remainder  of  the  evening 
(for  it  was  late  when  I  arrived)  in  a  neat  little  apartment, 
in  pleasant  conversation. 

Some  of  the  older  inhabitants  of  this  part  of  the  country 
have  a  little  knowledge  of  the  early  condition  of  the  coun- 
try; though  the  changes  have  been  so  great,  and  so  many 
generations  have  dwelt  here  in  undisturbed  security,  that  it 
is  difficult  to  imagine  what  were  the  trials  and  difficulties 
of  early  times. 

•'  Our  meadows  now  are  cheerful  all, 
Our  riverH  flow  in  light : 
But  cedars  wavM  their  branches  tall 
As  round  her  cios'd  the  night. 

"  The  path  which  seeks  the  lovM  abode 
You  knew  in  childhood  sweet, 
Perchance,  was  that  the  captive  trod, 
Mark'd  by  the  panther's  feeU" 


Copiei 
Thi 


I  HA' 

long  re 

River,  i 

try,  am 

the  pai 

be  give 

in  matt 

minds  < 

and  ae 

with  ta 

as  so 

amusei 

ninetee 

of  the 

are,  di 

gan  be 

law.    . 

cf  Eur 

is  the 

of  the 

and  ci 

for  oni 

eondu< 

by  the 

hence 

eomm( 

looked 

prodw 

Fin 


J_ 


riCtJT  RIVER. 

icipally  from  Northampton, 
reat  numbers,  jumping  into 
dies,  went  over  the  falls. 
,  were  killed,  principally  in 
were  hard  pressed  by  the 
if  a  man  were  found  a  few 
mong  the  rocks  below  the 
ket,  and  a  number  of  silver 
he  date  of  this  battle  :  were 
loldier  engaged  in  it. 
the  foot  of  the  hill,  I  ex- 
rt,  deserted  so  long,  picked 
and  bones,  took  many  fine 
lear  the  falls,  and  mounting 
equented  route  to  Bernards- 
I  the  night.     The  landlord 
horse  was  receiving  the  at- 
seat  by  a  fire.     1  had  just 
)t  seeing  any  preparations 
le  came  to  invite  me  into  an 
t  by  the  family  fireside.     I 
lie  remainder  of  the  evening 
in  a  neat  little  apartment, 

I  of  this  part  of  the  country 
early  condition  of  the  coun- 
been  so  great,  and  so  many 
undisturbed  security,  that  it 
e  the  trials  and  difficulties 


re  cheerful  all, 

ight: 

ir  branches  tall 

1  the  night. 

ks  the  lovM  abode 
hood  sweet, 
the  cuptive  trod, 
iher'gfeeU" 


120 


CHAPTER  XVII. 

Copies  of  ancient  Letters,  illustrating  something  of  the  State  of 
Things  in  this  part  of  the  Country  early  in  the  last  Century. 

I  HAVE  in  my  possession  some  old  papers,  from  a  fanaily 
long  resident  in  one  of  the  older  settlements  on  Connecticut 
River,  which  afford  lively  evidences  of  the  state  of  the  coun- 
try, and  circuniPtances  of  society,  at  different  periotls  during 
the  past  hundred  years  and  more.    A  few  extracts  will  here 
be  given,  for  the  gratification  of  such  as  may  feel  any  interest 
in  matters  of  this  kind.     Our  ancestors  early  made  up  their 
minds  on  certain  important  subjects,  and  went  immediately 
and  seriously  to  work.     Tliey  did  not  satisfy  themselves 
with  talkmg  philosophically,  or  forming  theoretical  cobwebs, 
as  so  many  European  writers  have  done,  merely  for  the 
amusement  of  a  pleasant  day.     Instead  of  waiting  till  the 
nineteenth  century,  to  ask  whether  the  times,  or  the  spirit 
of  the  age,  or  the  march  of  mind,  as  the  fashionable  phrase* 
are,  did  not  demand  the  instruction  of  all  classes,  they  be- 
gan before  the  middle  of  the  seventeenth,  to  require  it  by 
law.    And  what  has  been  the  result?   While, in  the  south 
cf  Europe,  ignorance  is  teaching  at  this  day  that  knowledge 
is  the  highway  to  vice;  the  poorest  inhabitant  of  this  part 
of  the  Union  has  the  noble  blood  of  knowledge  in  his  veins, 
and  can  trace  it  through  a  line  of  ancestors  uninterrupted 
for  one  or  two  centuries.     With  this  come  the  habits  of 
conduct  and  of  thought,  which  are  cherished  and  cultivated 
by  the  influences  of  a  virtuous  and  intelligent  society;  and 
hence  arise  those  valuable  traits  of  character  which  are 
commonly  attributed  to  this  people :  traits  which  cannot  be 
looked  for  under  other  circumstances,  and  which  cannot  be 
produced  by  other  causes. 

First  comes  a  plan  of  a  fort,  which  was  ordered  to  be 

12 


180 


nOVTE  UP  CONNECTICUT  RIVIR. 


built  on  the  river's  bank,  with  the  following  directions,  ac- 
companied with  a  letter  dated — 

"  The  figure  of  the  fctrt  to  be  built  in  the  Long  Meadow^, 
above  Northfield,  together  with  the  inner  building. 

"  The  box  a  to  be  placed  eastwardly  over  the  river  bank ; 
the  passage  into  the  mounts  to  be  from  the  lower  rooms, 
through  the  floor  of  the  mount,  except  that  at  the  norwest 
angle  to  be  from  the  chamber  through  the  side  of  the  mount. 
The  eastwardly  box  to  be  elevated  so  as  to  see  from  thence 
over  the  others.  The  timbers  to  be  bullet  proof.  The 
fort  to  be  twelve  or  fourteen  feet  high.  The  timber  to  lay 
the  chamber-floor  on  to  be  so  high  that  a  tall  man  may  walk 
upright  under  them.  The  buildings  within  twelve  or  four- 
teen foot  wide. 

"  The  inner  wall,  as  well  as  the  fort  and  mounts,  to  be 
made  of  hewed  timber.  The  housing  to  be  built  linto-wise ; 
the  roof  descending  from  the  top  of  the  fort.  The  outward 
parts  of  the  mounts  to  be  supported  by  timbers,  laid  four  or 
five  feet  beyond  the  corness  of  the  fort,  not  to  be  cut  at  the 
laying.  The  lower  timber  to  be  heightened  by  a  short 
piece,  and  the  floor  of  the  mounts  to  be  level  with  the 
highest  timber.  The  end  of  the  floor-pieces  to  go  under  the 
mount  pieces.  It  will  be  best  to  fell  the  timber  in  the  old 
of  the  moon.  One  of  the  first  services  will  be  to  cut  and 
dry  good  timber  for  fire-wood." 

«  Capt 

"  We  have  sent  Henrick  and  three  men  and  two  squas. 

"The  three  men's  names  are  Eraza,  Cossaump,  and 
Joseph,  whome  you  must  take  into  the  fort,  and  release  of 
the  English  soldiery  four  of  your  Englishmen,  viz.  John 
King  to  be  one  of  the  three  men  most  inefiective,  exceept 
the  hired  men,  as  I  wrote  to  you  in  my  former  letter — and 
them  you  release  must  leave  their  guns  for  to  supply  the 
Indians,  and  we  shall  see  them  returned,  or  a  reasonable 
price  for  them.  And  King  must  leave  his  gun  as  others  do 
npon  the  same  terms.  This  you  must  be  carefuU  to  take, 
and  keep  an  exact  account  of  the  day  of  their  release,  and 
•f  the  entry  of  the  Indians,  and  so  of  more  Indians  that 


may  ( 
them! 
and  ti 
to  ro) 
in  the 
still  » 
lisht 
prude 

Tl 
haste 
ingil 
enter 
couri 
No  ( 

"ugg 
oflSct 
hend 
seem 


spen 

spec 

restc 

to  si 

for  3 
it 

the 

like! 

the 

now 

fere 

I  p. 


riCVT  RIVIR. 

le  following  directions,  ac- 

luilt  in  the  Long  Meadovr, 
tie  inner  building, 
hvardly  over  the  river  bank ; 
be  from  the  lower  rooms, 
ixccpt  that  at  the  norwest 
ough  the  side  of  the  mount, 
d  so  as  to  see  from  thence 
to  be  bullet  proof.  The 
high.  The  timber  to  lay 
;h  that  a  tall  man  may  walk 
lings  within  twelve  or  four- 

the  fort  and  mounts,  to  be 
ising  to  be  built  linto-wise ; 

of  the  fort.  The  outward 
ted  by  timbers,  laid  four  or 
lie  fort,  not  to  be  cut  at  the 
be  heightened  by  a  short 
unts  to  be  level  with  the 
floor-pieces  to  go  under  the 
0  fell  the  timber  in  the  old 

services  will  be  to  cut  and 


three  men  and  two  squas. 
ire  Eraza,  Cossaump,  and 
nto  the  fort,  and  release  of 
our  Englishmen,  viz.  John 
en  most  ineffective,  exceept 
I  in  my  former  letter — and 
leir  guns  for  to  supply  the 
I  returned,  or  a  reasonable 
i  leave  his  gun  as  others  do 
u  must  be  carefuU  to  take, 
le  day  of  their  release,  and 
d  so  of  more  Indians  that 


OLD  LETTERS. 


Itl 


may  come;  and  be  verry  carefull  that  the  Indians  be  by 
themselves,  and  the  English  alsoe;  that  there  be  no  talkmg 
and  tradeing  betwixt  the  English  souldiers  and  the  Indiani 
to  royle  one  another  and  make  a  disturbance  amongst  them 
in  the  fort  nor  out  of  it,  but  all  to  keep  their  places,  and  be 
still  and  orderly ;  the  Indians  by  persuasion,  and  the  Eng- 
lish by  comand.  I  wish  you  good  success,  and  be  verry 
prudent  in  all  your  management.     Yours." 

The  following  letter  was  written,  as  it  would  appear,  in 
haste,  by  the  commander  of  the  fort,  in  the  winter  succeed- 
ing its  erection.  It  is  inserted  here  to  show  that  the  views 
entertained  by  many  in  this  country-  in  favour  of  the  en- 
couragement  of  manufactures  are  not  all  of  modern  date. 
No  doubt  it  will  amuse  some  of  my  readers  to  find  such 
suggestions  thrown  out  more  than  a  century  ago,  by  an 
officer  in  garrison,  in  a  small  frontier  outpost,  while  appre- 
hending attacks  from  Indians,  and  merely,  as  it  would 
seem,  to  occupy  a  little  leisure  in  the  dead  of  winter. 


"  Sir, 


Fort  *»•*•*,  Jan. »,  1724-5. 


"  You  some  time  since  enquired  of  me  whether  I  had  ever 
spent  any  iho'ts  upon  the  circumstances  of  our  gov'mt  re- 
specting their  medium  of  trade  (viz.)  how  they  might  be 
restored  to  their  original ;  and  I  should  esteem  it  a  risque 
to  show  myself  to  you  on  that  weighty  point,  were  it  not 
for  your  undoubted  candour  to  all. 

»  And  my  opinion  is,  that  as  much  as  possible  to  avoid 
the  emitting  such  vast  quantities  of  bills  would  be  a  very 
likely  expedient;  and  to  prevent  that  I  would  propose  that 
the  tax  on  all  imported  liquors  should  be  double  what  it  is 
now,  and  on  all  other  imported  goods  (that  we  may  be  suf- 
fered  to  lay  a  tax  upon)  in  that  proportion.  The  advantages 
I  propose  are 

»  1.  All  the  money  we  get  this  way  will  help  to  bear  the 
charge  of  the  governm't,  and  that  by  the  persons  naost  able 
to  bear  it ;  for  it  is  they  that  drink  and  wear  those  imported 
goods  that  draw  all  the  effects  of  this  country.    And  2, 


132 


ROUTE  UP  COMNBCTICUT  BITIR. 


This  would  tend  to  suppress  the  import  and  also  the  extrava- 
gance and  use  of  such  commodities.     And  3.  This  would 
tend  to  promote  and  encourage  those  manufactories  which 
would  produce  the  most  needful  commodities  among  our- 
selves.    Our  governm't  I  know  have  done  considerable  to 
encourage  the  raising  of  hemp,  the  makeing  of  duck,  good 
linnen-cloth,  &c.     And  if  they  had  at  the  same  Ume  obiig  d 
such  commodities  and  many  others  to  pay  custom  (when 
imported)  that  do  not,  it  would  have  done  well.    This  would 
not  only  help  to  pay  our  charge,  but  it  would  also  greatly 
encourage  the  making  of  such  things  in  this  country— for 
what  is  made  here  as  good  as  that  which  is  imported  would 
command  as  much  as  that,  when  the  merch't  has  paid  the 
duty  and  advanced  his  350  p.  cenU  upon  it.    And  most  cer- 
tainly  when  any  commodity  is  under  such  circumstances 
that  two  men  and  a  govc'mt  get  in  their  several  capacities 
a  living  by  it,  another  man  yt.  can  procure  the  same  com- 
modity without  the  two  lattr.  encumbrances  must  be  greatly 

inclined  to  do  it. 

"  If  your  patience  lasts,  I  would  entertain  you  with  one 
blunder  more,  which  is— I  should  think  it  very  proper, 
when  the  charge  is  so  great,  that  the  country  tax  should  be 
in  proportion ;  this  has  been  omitted  so  long  that  I  think  it 
high  time  to  begin ;  for  this  also  would  greatly  tend  to  pre- 
vent the  passing  of  such  vast  quantities  of  bills  among  us, 
which  are  now  (I  suppose  purely  by  their  multiplicity)  be- 
come but  just  half  so  good  as  our  former  mony.  It's  very 
strange  if  the  wages  of  such  as  go  to  warr  can't  be  so  pro- 
portioned to  other  mens'  advantages  as  that  20, 30,  or  possi- 
bly the  proportion  may  be  60  or  100  that  stay  at  home  can  t 
maintain  one  to  go  to  warr  and  pay  him  down.  I  am  sen- 
sible it  would  be  dangerous  at  once  to  make  an  act  that 
should  be  so  extensive  as  to  make  it  appear  by  what  time 
the  whole  of  the  bills  now  extant  should  be  brought  in,  for 
by  that,  rich  foreseeing  men  will  monopolize  their  coffers 
fiiU,  and  thereby  extort  upon  poor  people  that  must  pay 
their  rates.  Therefore,  let  us  now  begin  to  pay  every  year's 
tax  within  the  year,  and  involve  ourselves  no  farther,  for 
we  have  as  many  bills  out  now  as  all  the  country  can  find 


out  he 
peoph 

"  W 
dered 
shoulc 
discha 
or  pri( 
salary 
propel 
count! 
dispos 
busine 
more  ! 
of  life 
hetha 

»Si 
that  k 
&c.,  i 


"I 
day,  a 
am  ab 
close! 
been  : 
ness, ' 
derful 
my  sti 
receiv 
sible  ( 
under 
the  p« 
break 
accom 
persoi 
home 


OLD  LITTERS. 


IS8 


CTICUT  KITIR. 

import  and  also  the  extrava- 
dities.     And  3.  This  would 
!  those  manufactories  which 
ul  commodities  among  our- 
r  have  done  considerable  to 
1,  the  makeing  of  duck,  good 
had  at  the  same  time  oblig'd 
ithers  to  pay  custom  (when 
have  done  well.    This  would 
■ge,  but  it  would  also  greatly 
h  things  in  this  country— for 
that  which  is  imported  would 
en  the  merch't  has  paid  the 
cent,  upon  it.    And  most  cer- 
s  under  such  circumstances 
et  in  their  several  capacuies 
can  procure  the  same  com- 
(icumbrances  must  be  greatly 

would  entertain  you  with  one 
hould  think  it  very  proper, 
hat  the  country  tax  should  be 
jmitted  so  long  that  I  think  it 
so  would  greatly  tend  to  pre- 
,  quantities  of  bills  among  us, 
rely  by  their  multiplicity)  be- 
our  former  mony.  It's  very 
IS  go  to  warr  can't  be  so  pro- 
itages  as  that  20, 30,  or  possi- 
or  100  that  stay  at  home  can't 
d  pay  him  down.  I  am  sen- 
it  once  to  make  an  act  that 
make  it  appear  by  what  time 
tant  should  be  brought  in,  for 
will  monopolize  their  coffers 
,  poor  people  that  must  pay 
now  begin  to  pay  every  year's 
olve  ourselves  no  farther,  for 
iw  as  all  the  country  can  find 


out  how  to  call  in  and  not  ruin  a  considerable  part  of  the 
people. 

"  When  bills  were  first  made,  it  should  have  been  so  or- 
dered that  yy  should  always  have  been  equal  to  silver,  or  it 
should  be  enacted  yt  any  public  tax  whatsoever  might  be 
discharged  by  any  of  the  country  produce  at  reasonable  rates 
or  prices.  I  know  it  is  objected  that  this  is  to  make  eveiy 
salary-man  a  merchant,  which  is  very  much  beside  their 
proper  business ;  but  there  is  not  one  salary-man  in  this 
country,  but  by  himself  or  others  does  much  more  than  to 
dispose  of  his  salary  when  paid  in  such  things,  besides  the 
business  of  his  office ;  and  besides,  I  think,  that  man  is 
more  likely  to  be  a  trader  who  has  none  of  the  necessaries 
of  life,  and  must  take  mony  and  convert  into  them  all,  than 
he  that  has  all  those  things  and  but  little  mony. 

"  Sir,  this  is  the  effects  of  but  one  half  day,  and  any  man 
that  knows  me  will  say  it's  impossible  it  should  be  valuable, 
&c.,  &c." 

Letter  from  a  Lady. 

Borton,  tbfrSSd  of  Feb.,  1763. 
"  Dear  M. 
"  I  received  your  obliging  letter  of  the  18th  instant  this 
day,  and  have  conformed  myself  to  your  words  as  well  as  I 
am  able,  though  not  so  well  as  I  shou'd  be  glad  to,  being, 
closely  confined  to  the  limits  of  a  chamber,  where  I  have 
been  almost  three  weeks  confined  by  a  severe  fit  of  sick- 
ness, which  brought  me  near  to  death.  Through  the  won- 
derful forbearance  of  God,  my  life  is  lengthened  yet  farther* 
my  strength  recovering,  and  my  opportunity  for  doing  and 
receiving  good  yet  prolonged.  But,  alas !  I  remain  insen- 
sible of  my  privileges,  ungrateful  for  mercies,  unhumbled 
under  afilictions,  negligent  of  my  duty !  I  find  'tis  not  in 
the  power  of  Providence,  'tis  not  in  that  of  the  Word,  to 
break  and  melt  the  heart :  nothing  but  a  divine  energy  can 
accomplish  a  divine  work.  It  appears  to  me  that  never  a 
person  had  more  means  used  with  them  to  bring  them 
home  to  God  than  I  have  had,  but  how  little  do  I  answer 

\1* 


1S4 


ROVTB  VP  COMNKCTIC«T  RIVKR. 


the  just  expectations  of  God  and  men !  Surely  yon  will  be 
constrained  to  pour  out  your  soul  before  God  in  my  behalf. 
"  I  am  sorry  you  should  think  it  wou'd  be  a  trouble  to 
procure  the  few  things  you  sent  for— so  far  from  it,  I  ac- 
count it  a  pleasure ;  and  think  myself  more  obliged  to  you 
for  employing  me  than  you  are  to  me  for  sending  them. 
The  respect  you  show  to  the  memory  of  my  dear  and 
never-to-be-forgotten  sister,  I  return  my  grateful  thanks  for. 
The  removal  of  so  great  a  part  of  my  happiness  renders 
this  world  more  troublesome,  and  the  remaining  comforts 
of  life  more  insipid.    I  have  been  more  composed  since  my 

dear  Mrs. was  here  than  before— her  company  was 

of  singular  use  to  me,  as  she  is  now  the  most  intimate  friend 
I  have  on  earth.  I  much  question  whether  I  shall  ever  see 
her  again,  as  she  has  so  many  friends  to  visit,  and  I  can  see 
no  prospect  that  I  shall  ever  go  so  far  from  home.  I  have 
not  heard  from  her  since  December,  which  seems  an  age. 

"  The  account  you  give  of  the  burning  of  the  Orphan 
House,  I  am  apt  to  think,  is  a  false  report,  as  we  have  never 
heard  a  syllable  of  it ;  and  it  looks  most  likely  that  we 
shouM  have  heard  of  it  by  the  post. 

•»  Nothing  very  remarkable  occurs  to  my  mind  at  present. 
It  is   a  time   of  general  health.     Pray  when  you   see 

Itfiss ,  offer  my  respectful  compliments  to  her. 

•»  Company  coming  in  obliges  me  to  close,  with  the  offer 
of  my  service  whenever  you  have  occasion  for  it,  with  the 
assurance  of  my  sincere  wishes  for  your  prosperity,  and  with 
my  humble  service  to  the  good  Col.,  his  lady,  Mrs.  — — , 
and  yourself,  in  which  my  mother  joins  (my  father  being 

absent). 

"  I  am.  Dr.  M , 

"  Your  most  hvmble  servant.** 

Pray  favour  me  with  a  line  ) 
u  often  w  Tou  can.       i 


Erronec 


It  ii 
correci 
eountr 
circun 
compr 
render 
seems 
one  St 
not  al 
is  at  ii 
the  ho 
on  the 
peoplt 
Gulf  < 
causei 
the  ci 
home, 
hence 
know 
travel 
in  op< 

Bui 
of  his 
low-ii 
direct 
with  1 
you. 
perhii 
sever 


riC«T  RIVKR. 

I  men !    Surely  yon  will  be 
il  before  God  in  my  behalf, 
ik  it  wouM  be  a  trouble  to 
It  for — so  far  from  it,  I  ac- 
royself  more  obliged  to  yoo 
e  to  me  for  sending  them. 
I  memory  of  ray  dear  and 
turn  my  grateful  thanks  for. 
rt  of  my  happiness  renders 
and  the  remaining  comfort* 
m  more  composed  since  my 
I  before — her  company  was 
now  the  most  intimate  friend 
Lion  whether  I  shall  ever  see 
riends  to  visit,  and  I  can  see 
)  so  far  from  home.     I  have 
mber,  which  seems  an  age. 
the  burning  of  the  Orphan 
ilse  report,  as  we  have  never 
t  looks  most  likely  that  we 
post. 

iccurs  to  my  mind  at  present, 
ilth.  Pray  when  you  see 
1  compliments  to  her. 
>8  me  to  close,  with  the  offer 
lave  occasion  for  it,  with  the 
for  your  prosperity,  and  with 

)d  Col.,  his  lady,  Mrs. , 

other  joins  (my  father  being 

r.  M , 

our  most  humble  ienrant.** 


136 


CHAPTER  XVIII. 

Erroneout  Opinion*  of  Foreigners  of  our  Society — A  gre»t  political 
Character — Sabbath  School. 

It  is  not  very  surprising  that  foreigners  have  generally  no 
correct  ideas,  or  at  least  but  very  few,  in  relation  to  our 
country.  Private  and  public  concerns,  past  and  present 
circumstances,  so  intermingle  their  influences,  that  a  mere 
comprehension  of  the  political  system  is  quite  insufficient  to 
render  the  operations  of  society  intelligible.  Every  thing 
seems  at  once  free  and  dependent.  Prices  and  opinions  in 
one  state  afiect  those  in  a  neighbouring  one,  and  often,  if 
not  always,  more  or  less,  those  of  the  Union.  Every  man 
is  at  liberty  to  speculate  in  the  staple  of  any  town  or  county, 
the  houses  and  land,  on  equal  terms  with  him  who  was  bom 
on  the  spot ;  and  may  shoe  or  shave,  feed  or  clothe  the 
people  of  any  neighbourhood  from  the  height  of  land  to  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  if  they  will  consent  to  pay  him.  This 
causes  a  constant  commotion  on  the  routes,  and  quickens 
the  circulation  to  fever  haste.  The  people  must  stay  at 
home,  unless  they  know  where  they  are  going,  and  why; 
hence  intelligence  is  necessary.  They  travel  because  they 
know  something,  and  they  know  more  because  they  hav« 
travelled.  And  these  causes,  like  many  others  constantly 
in  operation,  are  continually  increasing  each  other. 

But  viewed  in  another  light,  each  man  has  the  peculiarities 
of  his  own  state,  county,  and  perhaps  town,  of  which  a  fel- 
low-traveller may  sometimes  obtain  some  knowledge  by 
directing  his  conversation  that  way.  If  you  are  acquainted 
with  them  already  to  some  extent,  he  will  amuse  or  instruct 
you.  Favourable  impressions  of  public  intelligence,  which 
perhaps  had  been  raised  in  me  by  accidentally  meeting 
several  sensible  men,  were  greatly  thwarted  by  the  man- 


136 


ROVTK  UP  CONIIICTICVT  RIVIR. 


'\ 


nera  and  conversation  of  a  person  of  a  different  character 

on  his  travels.  «^».k 

There  was  a  talkative  young  man  in  the  stage-coach, 
who  soon  avowed  himself,  by  word  of  mouth,  m  the  editor 
of  a  village  newspaper,  called  the  Banner  of  Principle,  or 
the  Disinterested  Patriot,  or  some  other  great  name.     His 
forward  manners  and  flippant  speech  had  got  the  start  of 
tliis  avowal,  and  already  proclaimed  him  an  uneducated, 
conceited  youth,  who  had  been  exceedingly  flattered  some- 
where,  by  somebody,  not  very  long  ago.  as  an  extraordinary 
wit      He  was  one  of  those  persons  whom  to  see  is  to  pity, 
if  you  have  any  benevolence  left  after  the  suffenngs  you 
endure  in  his  company.     He  had  set  out  m  life  wrong,  and 
was  travelling  rapidly  a  road  which  he  must  mev.tably  track 
back      He  was  living  and  breathing  on  mistake:  neither 
he,  nor  the  world,  nor  their  opinbn  of  him,  nor  his  import- 
ance to  them  was  such  as  he  supposed.     His  pretended 
friends  were  attached  only  to  themselves,  and  reaUy  exer- 
cised  refined  selfishness  in  enduring  his  society  m  order  to 
gain  the  slight  advantage  of  using  him  as  a  tool. 

He  had  the  misfortune  la  live  m  the  neighbourhood  of 
an  aspiring  politician;  and  having  abundance  of  self^son- 
ceit,  some  smartness,  and  an  acquaintance  with  the  lower 
classes  of  society,  he  thought  his  apparent  currency  eveiy- 
wh^re  was  owing  to  his  own  talents.    When,  therelore.  the 
Tdiwrship  of  a  Newspaper  was  offered  to  h.m,  he  supposed 
Sie  slaUon  was  but  the  meed  of  his  merit ;  and  when  I  saw 
him  he  was  already  in  full  business  on  such  slender  capital. 
He  had  not  the  penetration  to  perceive,  nor  the  humility  to 
"sictTny  connexioa  between  the  friendly  calls  of  Sqmre 
Undertow,  his  confidence  in  conversing  with  him  on  matter, 
of  state,  the  praise  of  his  first  essays,  and  the  whisper  that 
he  was  the  best  man  in  the  country  to  conduct  a  paper 
which  the  friends  of  principle  were  about  ^o  establish;  so 
he  was  soon  set  up,  like  a  locomotive  on  a  railroad,  and  ran 
rapidly  and  smoothly  along  the  track  which  he  was  no  per- 
mit  ed  to  leave,  fancying  that  while  he  out-rumbled  and  out- 
Sed  other  machines  of  his  class,  he  did  all,  and  was 
reaping  aU  the  glory.    He  felt  potent  enough  to  duitance 


every  ( 
threw 
deadly 
writers 
peripic 
and  en 
age  of 
was  to 
mere  I 
langna 
lay,  hi 
point  a 
most  p 
begun 
ilang. 
nothing 
scope  ( 
and  elc 
the  Nn 
"Oi 
one  of 
these  t 
his  re- 
using I 
was  m( 
we  wei 
them  t 
won't  I 
house  ' 

jug-  ' 
fashion 
road  ir 
improvi 
a  candi 
valley, 
the  ten 
sistentl 
is  all  b 
ciety. 


JTICWT  mviR. 

ton  of  a  different  character 

g  man  in  the  stage-coach, 
ord  of  mouth,  a«  the  editor 
the  Banner  of  Principle,  or 
me  other  great  name.     His 
ipeech  had  got  the  start  of 
(aimed  him  an  uneducated, 
exceedingly  flattered  some- 
ong  ago,  as  an  extraordinary 
jons  whom  to  see  is  to  pity, 
eft  after  the  sufferings  you 
lad  set  out  in  life  wrong,  and 
hich  he  must  inevitably  track 
eathing  on  mistake:  neither 
inion  of  him,  nor  his  import- 
e  supposed.     His  pretended 
themselves,  and  really  exer- 
luring  his  society  in  order  to 
iog  him  as  a  tool, 
ive  in  the  neighbourhood  of 
iving  abundance  of  self-con- 
acquaintance  with  the  lower 
his  apparent  currency  every- 
alents.    When,  therefore,  the 
s  offered  to  him»  he  supposed 
)f  his  merit ;  and  when  I  saw 
iness  on  such  slender  capital. 
(  perceive,  nor  the  humility  to 
en  the  friendly  calls  of  Squire 
mversing  with  him  on  matters 
t  essays,  and  the  whisper  that 
I  country  to  conduct  a  paper 
were  about  to  establish;  so 
)motive  on  a  railroad,  and  ran 
e  track  which  he  was  not  per- 
while  he  out-rumbled  and  out- 
liis  class,  he  did  all,  and  was 
elt  potent  enough  to  distance 


A  ORKAT  POLITICAL  CHARACTIR. 


1S7 


every  competitor,  and  despised  the  weak  creatures  which 
threw  themselves  in  the  way  of  his  intolerable  wit  and 
deadly  satire.  He  had  formerly  read  the  models  of  English 
writers  with  some  pleasure,  and  attempted  to  arrange,  with 
perspicuity,  force,  and  harmony,  words  expressive  of  just 
and  ennobling  sentiments.  But  now  he  had  learned  that  the 
age  of  improvement  had  come,  and  every  thing  old-fashioned 
was  to  be  done  away.  Where  would  be  the  use  of  writing 
mere  truth,  when  it  would  produce  no  effect?  And  as  for 
language,  his  readers,  and  above  all  his  patrons  (that  is  to 
lay,  his  payers  and  admirers),  wished  him  to  write  with 
point  and  pith ;  and  he  had  already  become  a  rival  of  the 
most  popular  editors  in  some  of  his  paragraphs,  as  he  had 
begun  to  excel  some  of  the  noisiest  village  politicians  in 
slang.  All  the  old  rules  of  composition  comprehended 
nothing  that  could  equal,  or  that  might  not  be  found  in  th« 
scope  of  one  word — personality ;  and  his  model  of  rhetoric 
and  eloquence  was  the  "  saucy,"  but  "  successfur'  editor  of 
the  National  Fulcrum  or  Lever — no  matter  which. 

"  Our  governor,"  said  he,  "  is  an  honest  kind  of  a  man- 
one  of  the  old-fashioned  sort — too  honest,  I  tell  them,  for 
these  times  ;  and  his  friends  think  that  they  can  succeed  in 
his  re-election,  merely  because  he  has  done  well,  without 
using  the  means.  The  article  I  published  last  Thursday 
was  meant  to  lull  them  asleep,  and  make  them  suppose  that 
we  were  doing  nothing  to  get  him  out.  But  we  shall  show 
them  the  next  election.  The  oldest  senator  in  the  state 
won't  like  to  see  a  new  man  in  his  place ;  and  the  lower 
house  will  be  all  one  side  next  session,  like  the  handle  of  a 
jug.  The  present  party,  in  our  county,  have  got  all  the  oId> 
fashioned  people  with  them,  but  we're  likely  to  get  the  rail- 
road interest,  because  I  say  something  every  week  about 
improvements ;  and  as  we  have  taken  Captain  Bog-ore  for 
a  candidate,  we  shall  be  sure  of  the  iron-founders  in  the 
valley.  He's  rather  a  hardware  character,  however,  and 
the  temperance  people  say  they  can't  *  swallow*  him,  con- 
sistently,  because  it  would  be  drinking  brandy;  and  he 
is  all  but  ready  to  take  the  head  of  the  anti-temperance  so- 
ciety.     That  would  kill  us  as  dead  as  a  door  nail,  if  he 


i 

i 


m 


ROUTE  UP  CONNBCTICVT  RIVER. 


should  do  it  at  present,  for  it's  hard  work  to  make  all 
■oris  of  our  friends  believe  wh«t  we  tell  them.  But,  how- 
ever, Squire  Sycophant  says  he's  the  only  man  that  can 
manage  the  captain ;  and  as  he'll  probably  be  persuaded 
to  be  Speaker  of  the  House  this  year,  though  he's  the  most 
modest  man  in  the  Union,  I  think  we  shall  get  along.  Now 
all  these  difBculties  an  editor  has  to  be  provided  against ; 
and  it  requires  a  good  deal  of  tact,  I  can  tell  you,  to  know 
exactly  who  to  touch  up,  and  who  to  let  alone  ;  and  when 
to  call  names,  and  how  to  tell  a  lie  all  but,  and  creep  out  when 
you  are  charged  with  it,  and  turn  the  laugh  on  the  other  side 
by  giving  them  a  rap  over  the  knuckles.  But  things  will 
be  so  in  a  free  country  like  ours." 

"  Ah !"  said  a  sedate  old  gentleman,  in  the  stage-coach, 
"you  pay  a  high  compliment  to  the  spirit  of  popular 
government.  The  press,  as  I  argue  from  your  remarks, 
is  rapidly  rising  in  dignity  and  purity." 

"  Why,  yes,  that  is,  it  is  improving  in  spirit  and  life,  and 
it  is  waking  up  the  people,  at  least  in  our  section  of  coun- 
try, where  there  are  men  who  never  used  to  read  who— 
now  take  my  paper." 

The  houses  at  which  I  spent  the  night  had  been  duly 
furnished  with  the  tracts  for  this  month  by  the  Tract  So- 
ciety ;  there  was  a  Bible  in  my  chamber,  bearing  an  inscrip- 
tion to  show  that  it  had  been  presented  by  the  Connecticut 
Bible  Society  to  the  hotel ;  and  among  the  newspapers  in 
the  reading-room  was  the  last  number  of  a  Sabbath-school 
and  a  Temperance  Journal.  Here  was  new  evidence  that 
the  spirit  of  beneficent  association  was  in  full  operation 
around  me,  and  turned  my  mind  to  consider  the  amount  of 
ite  influence,  annually,  monthly,  and  daily,  in  the  country  at 
large.  How  a  connexion  with  one  of  these  societies  tends 
to  give  a  good  direction  to  the  heart,  the  head,  the  feet,  and 
the  hands !  When  a  movement  has  been  made  for  the  first 
time  in  a  village,  for  the  promotion  of  any  such  object,  by 
measures  never  attempted  there  before,  benevolence,  activity, 
independence,  and  perseverance  are  often  necessary,  in  a 
considerable  degree,  to  secure  success.  It  is  the  nature  ol 
every  virtue,  as  well  as  of  the  intellect,  to  gain  strength  by 


Its  own 
similar 
every  ci 
is  a  Bib 
be  said 
port  of  i 
tions,  so 
tion;  ar 
busy  ma 
labour  < 
of  them 
practica 
their  ph 
around  t 
in  their 
and  rej 
system  ( 
come  ha 
elevatioi 
training 

And 
When  a 
he  feels 
of  condi 
and  disu 
similar  i 
and  reKi 
inlerestc 
feelings 
sexes,  w 
station, 
accordin 
society  j 
not  pure 

And  i 
hedged  i 
takiug  w 
they  enj 
recomm( 


riCUT  RIVER. 

■  hard  work  to  make  ail 
we  tetl  ihem.  But,  how- 
e'a  the  only  man  that  can 
e'll  probably  be  persuaded 
year,  though  he's  the  mos» 
k  we  shall  get  along.  Now 
IS  to  be  provided  against; 
ct,  I  can  tell  you,  to  know 
vho  to  let  alone  ;  and  when 
5  all  but,  and  creep  out  when 
I  the  laugh  on  the  other  side 
knuckles.  But  things  will 
.." 

itleman,  in  the  stage-coach, 
to   the   spirit  of  popular 
argue  from  your  remarks, 
juriiy." 

-oving  in  spirit  and  life,  and 
east  in  our  section  of  coun- 
never  used  to  read  who — 

t  the  night  had  been  duly 
lis  month  by  the  Tract  So- 
chamber,  bearing  an  inscrip- 
resented  by  the  Connecticut 
I  among  the  newspapers  in 
lumber  of  a  Sabbath-school 
Icre  was  new  evidence  that 
iation  was  in  full  operation 
il  to  consider  the  amount  of 
,  and  daily,  in  the  country  at 
one  of  these  societies  tends 
leart,  the  head,  the  feet,  and 
I  has  been  made  for  the  first 
lotion  of  any  such  object,  by 
before,  benevolence,  activity, 
;e  are  often  necessary,  in  a 
success.  It  is  the  nature  of 
intellect,  to  gain  strength  hy 


VABBATH-lcnOOLS. 


180 


its  own  exertions,  as  well  as  to  incite  spectators  to  aim  at 
similar  objects,  and  to  use  similar  means.  Thus  it  is  that 
every  city,  village,  and  hamha  in  our  country,  where  there 
is  a  Bible-society  or  a  Sabbaih-school,  may  in  some  sense 
be  said  to  have  had  its  Owen  and  its  Raikes.  But  ihe  sup- 
port of  such  societies,  and  the  continuance  of  their  opera- 
tions, sometimes  require  greater  exertion  than  their  founda- 
tion; and  hence  we  often  find  individuals,  among  the  most 
busy  manufacturers  and  merchants,  on  whom  the  whole 
labour  of  some  societies,  and  not  always  the  least  efficient 
of  them,  depends.  In  such  persons  we  often  find  more 
practical  skill  and  knowledge  in  relation  to  the  objects  of 
their  philanthropic  pursuit,  than  in  the  whole  community 
around  them.  If  they  find  little  support  or  encouragement 
in  their  own  circle,  they  seek  them  in  a  broader  sphere, 
and  regard  themselves  as  connected  with  an  extensive 
system  of  beneficence,  by  which  their  minds  and  hearts  be- 
come habitually  expanded,  and  their  characters  acquire  an 
elevation  and  a  force  which,  perhaps,  no  other  course  of 
training  could  confer. 

And  how  interesting  is  this  subject  in  another  view. 
When  a  youth  is  connected  with  an  association  of  this  kind, 
he  feels  that  he  is  bound  to  an  upright  and  virtuous  course 
of  conduct,  and  that  any  deviation  from  it  will  be  observed 
and  disapproved.  He  finds  his  associates  also  affected  by 
similar  influences,  and  the  whole  tone  of  society  purified 
and  refined.  At  the  same  time  similar  pursuits,  and  the  dis- 
interested source  from  which  they  spring,  establish  fraternal 
feelings  as  well  as  mutual  respect  among  the  youth  of  both 
sexes,  which  often  prevail  over  all  dififerences  in  profession, 
station,  family,  and  property.  Individuals  also  take  rank 
according  to  their  characters,  zeal,  and  ability;  and  each 
society  presents  a  kind  of  little  republic,  in  which  votes  are 
not  purchased,  and  offices  are  unpaid. 

And  in  this  manner  not  only  is  the  tharacter  of  the  young 
hedged  in  from  many  exposures,  but  means  are  afforded  for 
taking  with  them,  wherever  they  go,  the  respectable  standing 
they  enjoy  at  home.  A  Sabbath-school  teacher  carries  a 
recommendation  with  him  to  whatever  place  he  visits,  often 


i 


'i 

f 
! 

} 

r 


'40 


KOVTE  1TP  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


of  greater  value  than  any  letter  of  introduction.  He  cannot 
feign  a  claim  to  the  name,  for  nothing  but  habit  can  familiar- 
ize him  with  the  operations  of  a  Sabbath-school  sufficiently 
to  converse  intelligently  on  the  subject ;  and  many  a  little 
Shibboleth  would  be  detected  in  any  one  who  might  attempt 
to  pass  for  what  he  was  not.  , .  .    ,     e  u 

I  was  once  led  to  reflect  on  the  security  which  the  S>ab- 
bath-school  often  gives  to  strangers,  in  forming  opinions  of 
each  other,  and  exercising  mutual  confidence,  by  having 
entered  one  myself,  where  I  was  received  as  a  fellow- 
labourer,  unknown,  and  yet  well  known.    Seeing  a  stranger 
enter  and  silently  seat  himself,  one  of  the  teachers  immedi- 
ately directed  the  attention  of  the  superintendent  to  me,  who 
advanced  with  a  respectful  bow,  cordially  gave  me  his  hand, 
and  invited  me  to  walk  with  him  round  the  school.     I  felt 
that  this  was  all  in  order ;  and  penetrated  his  hea^^  because 
I  hadioften  been  placed  in  his  situation,  and  acted  exactly 
as  he  had  done  and  imended  to  do.     I  saw  that  he  took  me 
for  a  teacher  from  some  distant  town,  but  received  me  only 
in  the  more  general  character  of  a  friend  of  moraU  and  in- 
telligence, which  I  had  professed  by  the  fact  of  entermg  his 
door.     His  doubts  were  to  be  settled,  while  his  first  duties 
of  courtesy  were  performing  during  our  circuit  among  the 
classes.     Some  of  his  remarks  on  the  course  of  studies 
naturally  led  me  to  replies,  from  which  he  plamly  mferred 
my  familiarity  with  Sabbath-schools ;  and  were  followed  by 
inquiries  concerning  my  own  experience  on  certain  pointt 
in  which  he  had  found  difficulty.     Thus  the  fact  of  my 
being  a  brother-teacher  was  satisfactorily  established.     He 
then  apologized  for  the  vacancy  of  several  seate,  by  stating 
that  he  had  recently  formed  the  school,  at  the  wish  of  the 
difiVsrent  churches  in  the  vicinity,  and  received  teachers  as 
well  as  pupils  from  several  congregations  of  different  sects, 
with  such  recruits  as  had  been  drawn  from  the  manufactories 
on  one  side  and  the  farm-houses  on  the  other.     Without 
anv  knowledge  of  his  sect,  or  a  single  attempt  to  asceriam 
it,  he  respectfully  requested  another  stranger  to  make  an 
address  to  the  school,  when  it  should  close,  to  which  he 
consented.     Seeing  a  class  of  children  without  a  teacher, 


:ticvt  river. 

of  introduction.  He  cannot 
>thing  but  habit  can  fatniliar- 
i  Sabbath-school  sufficiently 
I  subject ;  and  many  a  little 
I  any  one  who  might  attempt 

the  security  which  the  Sab- 
igers,  in  forming  opinions  of 
utual  confidence,  by  having 
was  received  as  a  fellow- 
1  known.    Seeing  a  stranger 
one  of  the  teachers  immedi- 
le  superintendent  to  me,  who 
,  cordially  gave  me  his  hand, 
lim  round  the  school.     I  felt 
penetrated  his  heart,  because 
situation,  and  acted  exactly 
»  do.     I  saw  that  he  took  me 
t  town,  but  received  me  only 
of  a  friend  of  morals  and  in- 
ed  by  the  fact  of  entering  his 
settled,  while  his  first  duties 
luring  our  circuit  among  the 
is  on  the  course  of  studies 
om  which  he  plainly  inferred 
hools ;  and  were  followed  by 
experience  on  certain  pointt 
lulty.    Thus  the  fact  of  my 
atisfactorily  established.     He 
;y  of  several  seate,  by  stating 
le  school,  at  the  wish  of  the 
ity,  and  received  teachers  as 
tngregations  of  different  sects, 
drawn  from  the  manufactories 
uses  on  the  other.     Without 
r  a  single  attempt  to  ascertain 
mother  stranger  to  make  an 
it  should  close,  to  which  he 
f  children  without  a  teacher, 


THI  BEAVTUS  OF  NATtJRB. 


141 


who  had  come  from  some  of  the  poorest  dwellings  in  the 
neighbourhood,  I  volunteered  to  instruct  them,  and  was 
soon  seatetf  with  the  Question  Book  of  the  American  Sun- 
day-school Union  and  the  New  Testament  open  in  my 
hands,  at  the  lesson  for  the  day.  When  the  hour  had 
elapsed  and  the  speaker  rose,  I  surveyed  the  assembly  with 
the  reflection  that  hundreds  of  thousands  of  children  were 
thus  assembled  in  the  country  for  similar  objects,  under  the 
instruction  of  tens  of  thousands  of  teachers. 

Such  reflections  are  impressed  upon  the  mind  more  deeply 
by  solitude  and  agreeable  scenery;  and  nowhere  more  thaa 
on  the  banks  of  the  Connecticut  does  nature,  anin&ate  and 
inanimate,  under  a  pure  summer  sky,  appear  in  unison  with 
the  Christian's  Sabbath. 

It  is  easy  to  perceive  something  of  the  extensive  and 
powerful  influence  which  such  associations  are  exerting 
upon  the  minds  and  hearts,  the  manners  and  habiti  of  my 
countrymen,  as  well  as  the  importance  of  having  such  im- 
provements introduced  into  the  system  as  might  render  it 
more  perfect  and  effectual.  Such  gratifying  interviews  may 
be  enjoyed  every  week.  We  may  part,  perhaps,  even 
ignorant  of  each  other's  names ;  but  with  such  feelings  as 
those  of  Bunyan's  friends,  who  •'  wont  on  rejoicing,  and  I 
saw  them  no  more."  Such  a  morning  exercise  gives  warmth 
and  elevation  to  the  devotions  of  the  day. 

Much  as  the  scenery  of  the  Connecticut  is  admired,  a 
great  deal  of  enjoyment  is  often  lost  by  not  having  the  ad- 
vantage of  the  most  favourable  light  to  see  it  in.  The  broad 
and  level  meadows,  with  all  their  fertility,  and  the  swelling 
hills  and  woody  bluffs  which  by  turns  interrupt  them,  often 
appear  tame  and  uninteresting  when  the  sun  is  in  the 
zenith ;  but  when  near  the  morning  or  the  evening  horizon, 
it  enhances  the  richness  of  one,  and  shows  all  the  variety 
of  the  latter. 

The  time  has  not  yet  arrived  when  the  beauties  of  na- 
ture are  to  become  objects  of  general  attention  and  study 
to  all  classes  ;  but  we  should  labour  to  hasten  it,  for  our 
own  land  abounds  in  them  most  richly,  and  the  humblest 
acene  can  furnish  T«>al  pleasure  to  the  eye  which  intelligently 

13 


142 


ROrTE  VV  CONNECTICUT  RIVER. 


observes  it,  and  may  assist  in  raising  the  heart  to  objecij 
far  above  itself.  "  I  have  inquired  of  many  plain  people  of 
good  sense,"  remarked  a  highly-intelligent  and  ingenious 
gentleman,  "  to  ascertain  whether  there  exists  among  our 
yeomanry  any  distinct  conceptions  of  beauty  in  the  objects  of 
nature ;  and  I  fear  they  too  generally  look  with  interest  on 
a  fine  walnut-tree,  merely  because  they  associate  with  its 
size  its  greater  value  for  fuel."  And  as  for  hills  and  streams, 
he  was  apprehensive  that  the  first  are  regarded  only  on  ac- 
count of  the  wood  or  stone  they  aflbrd,  and  the  other  as 
they  contain  fish.  Certain  it  is,  that  while  we  all  possess 
feelings  which  sublime  and  beautiful  objects  must  move,  and 
fashion  begins  to  incline  many  to  talk  of  scenery  around  us, 
as  it  formerly  forbade  us  to  praise  any  thing  American,  there 
is  a  great,  an  almost  univ  ".rsal  inattention  to  the  true  prin- 
ciples of  taste  among  our  <.  ountrymen,  which  proper  means 
might  correct. 

We  have  sufficient  native  talent  around  us  to  furnish  pic< 
tures  whenever  they  shall  be  demanded  by  public  taste,  and 
paid  for ;  while  for  scenes,  we  are  abundantly  supplied  with 
them,  both  for  landscape  and  historical  painting.  When 
fashion  shall  once  have  turned,  I  expect  to  see  a  strong 
current  setting  in  favour  of  the  ornamental  arts ;  and  I  think 
the  great  and  various  changes  we  have  heretofore  seen  in 
society,  warrant  us  in  the  hope  that  something  important  is 
yet  in  reserve  for  us  on  a  matter  connected  with  so  much 
that  is  truly  refining.  Let  our  artists,  therefore,  raise  their 
dejected  eyes,  and  continue  to  employ  their  leisure  hours  in 
the  creations  of  their  rich  fancies,  or  the  portraiture  of  richer 
nature,  believing  that  the  time  will  come  when  their  produc- 
tions will  be  appreciated,  and  exert  their  influence  upon 
society. 

Such  reflections  as  these,  and  many  more,  were  excited 
by  a  visit  I  made  not  long  since  to  a  young  artist,  who  has 
devoted  such  moments  as  he  could  spare  from  a  variety  of 
other  employments  to  the  study  and  practice  of  painting. 
He  has  refused,  wisely  perhaps,  to  trust  to  an  art  so  pre- 
carious for  the  supply  of  his  bread,  but  has  ma<J«i  consider- 
ible  progress  in  drawing,  colouring,  ligbtsi  and  shades,  in 


iiis  leii 

self. 

many; 

lion  o 

to  othi 

same 

he  wo 

numb( 

would 

posed 

the  at 

the  til 

listles 

would 

might 

preci: 

be  be 

public 

tions< 

Ag 
admii 
Vera 


Appr< 


B, 

reas( 

at  ni 

comi 

vant 

the 

tbe{ 


TICUT  RIVfiR. 

aising  the  heart  to  objecii 
red  of  many  plain  people  of 
ly-intelligent  and  ingenious 
ler  there  exists  among  our 
ns  of  beauty  in  the  objects  of 
lerally  look  with  interest  on 
Luse  they  associate  with  its 
Ind  as  for  hills  and  streams, 
■St  are  regarded  only  on  ac- 
3y  aflbrd,  and  the  other  as 
i,  that  while  we  all  possess 
itiful  objects  must  move,  and 
,0  talk  of  scenery  around  us, 
Bc  any  thing  American,  there 
nattention  to  the  true  prin- 
rymen,  which  proper  means 

ent  around  us  to  furnish  pic« 
smanded  by  public  taste,  and 
are  abundantly  supplied  with 
historical  painting.  When 
d,  I  expect  to  see  a  strong 
irnamental  arts ;  and  I  think 
we  have  heretofore  seen  in 
that  something  important  is 
tter  connected  whh  so  much 
artists,  therefore,  raise  their 
employ  their  leisure  hours  in 
IS,  or  the  portraiture  of  richer 
will  come  when  their  produc- 
exert  their  influence  upon 

md  many  more,  were  excited 
e  to  a  young  artist,  who  has 
ould  spare  from  a  variety  of 
dy  and  practice  of  painting. 
3,  to  trust  to  an  art  so  pre- 
read,  but  has  ma<J«!  consider- 
ouring,  lightai  and  shades,  in 


BATH. 


148 


his  leisure,  at  least  enough  to  gratify  friends  and  please  him- 
self.    And  are  there  no  means  by  which  the  attention  of 
many  youths  may  be  turned  in  a  similar  channel,  and  a  por- 
tion of  their  leisure  rendered  useful  as  well  as  gratifying 
to  others  ?     If  one  had  a  friend  at  his  side  interested  in  the 
same  object,  and  painting  with  him  an  hour  or  two  daily, 
he  would  improve  more  rapidly  than  alone ;   and  if  their 
number  were  increased,   the  benefit  to   each   individual 
would  become  proportionally  greater.     Now  let  it  be  sup- 
posed that  drawing  from  nature  and  painting  should  occupy 
the  attention  of  a  few  persons  in  eveiy  village,  and  employ 
the  time  now  spent  in  frivolous  reading,  idling  at  corners, 
listlessness  and  vacuity,  or  even  a  tenth  part  of  that  time : 
would  not  a  taste  be  cultivated,  a  knowledge  gained,  which 
might  lead  to  a  more  just  estimate  of  the  art  and  a  higher  ap- 
preciation of  our  leading  artiste  T   Would  they  not  naturally 
be  better  rewarded  and  more  highly  encouraged,  and  the 
public  benefited  by  turning  a  little  attention  to  the  instruc- 
tions which  the  canvass  can  give  T 

Again  passing  over  many  miles  and  plsasant  villages,  and 
admiring  without  praising  the  fine  farms  and  hardy  people  of 
Vermont  and  New-Hampshire,  I  approach  the  White  HilUt 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

Approach  to  the  White  HilU— Bath— Reflectioni  on  Society— Ths 
Wild  Ammonooguc — Breton  Wood«— Crawford's— Scenery. 

Bath  appeared  very  pleasant  to  me,  for  the  same 
reasons  that  places  where  travellers  find  welcome  repose 
at  night  generally  are  so :  and  beside  the  comfortable  ac- 
commodations which  the  tavern  afforded  me,  I  had  the  ad- 
vantage of  seeing  the  place  under  the  sloping  beams  of  both 
the  setting  and  the  rising  sun,  which  are  so  favourable  to 
the  picturesque  features  even  of  the  tamest  landscape.    The 


144 


THE  WHITE  HILLS. 


vUlage  ia  small,  but  neat,  and  had  two  or  three  very  pretty 
houses  standing  back  from  the  street,  m  the  midst  of  grass 
and  trees,  beside  a  due  proportion  of  shade  and  open  field 
on  every  side.  Here  are  two  smooth  and  fertile  levels,  as 
regular  as  artificial  terraces,  rising  from  the  bank  of  Con- 
necticut River ;  and  every  thing  around  me  retamed  an  aspect 
appropriate  to  that  stream,  though  its  diminished  breadth 
and  the  wild  uplands  gave  me  the  painful  recollection  that 
here  I  was  to  change  my  route,  and  penetrate  into  a  more 
•avage  and  inhospitable  region. 

As  I  bade  a  temporary  adieu  to  my  native  stream  m  the 
morning,  and  while  my  horse  was  taking  due  heed  to  his 
feet  up  a  rough  and  stony  hill,  my  thoughts  pursued  its  cur- 
rent downwards,  through  tlie  region  I  had  just  been  travel- 
ling  over.  How  difierent  were  my  feelings  on  leaving  the 
Thames,  the  Seine,  the  Rhine,  the  Arno,  and  the  Tiber . 
I  had  found  nothing  there  which  satisfied  the  heart  like  a 
social  or  family  circle,  and  the  sUte  of  society  which  sur- 
rounds us  in  our  own  land. 

Although  no  gaudy  show  of  wealth  had  here  m  any  form 
been  presented  to  my  eyes,  I  had  nothing  to  regret  .n  the 
absence  of  such  palaces  or  equipages  as  are  so  much  ad- 
mired by  many  travelled  wits,  and  occupy  so  many  of  the 
books  of  tourists.    My  mind  had  been  agreeably  occupied 
with  reflections  on  the  nature  and  tendency  of  such  a  state 
of  society  as  there  exists,  the  simple  causes  which  had  pro- 
duced such  desirable  effects,  and  the  measures  by  which 
they  may  be  rendered  productive  of  many  more.    If  certain 
enlightened  philanthropists  of  Europe  whom  I  might  name 
but  possessed  the  facilities  we  enjoy  for  contributing  to  the 
benefit  of  mankind;  if  they  were  among  men  and  circum- 
stances like  these,  the  results  of  two  centuries  practical 
operation  of  free  and  universal  education,  under  a  govern- 
ment owing   its  existence   and   all   its   prospects  to  the 
propagation  of  knowledge  and  the  difl-usion  of  virtue,  with 
what  zeal,  with  what  hope,  with  what  success  would  they 
labour '.  If  I  could  see  those  enthusiastic  friends  of  knowledge 
in  France,  who  have  just  erected  that  new  and  splendid 
fabric,  the  national  system  of  public  education  for  the  Jong- 


dom,  ii 
of  soci 
produ.: 
should 
never 
were  j 
ready 
him,  a 
instruc 
toopui 
condhi 
of  the 
too  mi 
remair 
Th« 
Mount 
Wild) 
his  fei 
shadow 
rocky 
do  not 
Wild, 
the  ba 
and  m 
great  1 
had  b 
geolog 
hensio 
ments. 
scienti 
to  my 
their  p 
in  this 
to  attr 
but  th 
better 
pare  t 
finem( 
been: 


C  HILLS. 

had  two  or  three  very  prettjr 

street,  in  the  midat  of  grass 

tion  of  shade  and  open  field 

smooth  and  fertile  levels,  as 

ising  from  the  bank  of  Con- 

r  around  me  retained  an  aspect 

lOugh  its  diminished  breadth 

the  painful  recollection  that 

ite,  and  penetrate  into  a  more 

1. 

lu  to  my  native  stream  in  the 
was  taking  due  heed  to  his 
,  my  thoughts  pursued  its  cur- 
region  I  had  just  been  travel- 
re  my  feelings  on  leaving  the 
e,  the  Arno,  and  the  Tiber ! 
ich  satisfied  tho  heart  like  a 
he  sute  of  society  which  sur- 

f  wealth  had  here  in  any  form 
I  had  nothing  to  regret  in  the 
quipages  as  are  so  much  ad- 
I,  and  occupy  so  many  of  the 
I  had  been  agreeably  occupied 
!  and  tendency  of  such  a  state 
:  simple  causes  which  had  pro- 
,  and  the  measures  by  which 
jtive  of  many  more.    If  certain 
f  Europe  whom  I  might  name 
ire  enjoy  for  contributing  to  the 
were  among  men  and  circum- 
ilts  of  two  centuries  practical 
ial  education,  under  a  govern- 
and   all  its   prospects  to  the 
id  the  diffusion  of  virtue,  with 
with  what  success  would  they 
nthusiastic  friends  of  knowledge 
■reeled  that  new  and  splendid 
)f  public  education  for  the  king' 


WILD  SCENERY 


I4S 


dom,  introduced  to  an  intimate  acquaintance  with  this  state 
of  society,  and  enabled  to  apprehend  the  causes  which  have 
produced  it,  and  the  objects  at  which  it  tends,  I  am  sure  I 
should  witness  the  expression  of  feelings  which  they  had 
never  experienced  before.  If  the  philanthropic  Douglass 
were  pitched  among  such  people  as  these,  how  much  more 
ready  and  capable  would  he  find  them  to  be  influenced  by 
him,  and  to  render  him  support  and  assistance,  as  well  as 
instruction,  for  the  accomplisliment  of  his  designs,  which  are 
too  pure  and  lofty  for  the  greater  part  of  Europe  in  its  present 
condition.  How  much  is  it  to  be  regretted,  that  while  some 
of  the  best  men  in  the  Old  World  are  charged  with  being 
too  much  in  advance  of  things  around  them,  ours  should 
remain  to  such  an  extent  behind  the — tide ! 

The  traveller  does  not  realize  his  approach  to  the  White 
Mountains  until  he  turns  off  to  follow  the  course  of  the 
Wild  Ammonoosuc.  If  ^o  is  alone,  as  I  was,  he  will  find 
his  feelings  deeply  impressed  by  the  gloom  of  the  over- 
shadowing forest  trees,  tlie  occasional  sight  of  rugged  and 
rocky  eminenees,  and  the  noise  of  the  rushing  stream.  I 
do  not  know  another  which  so  well  deserves  the  epithet  of 
Wild.  The  bed  is  strewn  with  sharp  and  misshapen  rocks ; 
the  banks  show  marks  of  frequent  and  fearful  inundations ; 
and  many  of  the  trees  have  been  stripped  of  their  bark  to  a 
great  height  from  the  ground.  It  seems  as  if  arrangements 
had  been  purposely  made  to  give  you  a  set-lecture  on 
geology,  in  tha  laboratory  of  nature ;  and  you  feel  an  appre- 
hension that  it  is  to  be  attended  with  detonating  experi- 
ments. One  of  the  unpleasant  accomplishments  of  regular 
scientific  instruction  I  had  to  endure ;  and  would  recommend 
to  my  successors  to  put,  at  least,  a  dry  cracker  or  two  into 
their  pockets.  So  far  from  there  being  any  human  habitations 
in  this  part  of  the  journey,  there  are  not  even  berries  enough 
to  attract  the  bears ;  indeed,  there  is  nothing  to  be  found 
but  the  bare  sublime.  Wlioever  seeks  any  thing  else  had 
better  choose  some  other  route.  I  could  not  but  com- 
pare the  savage  traits  of  this  region  with  the  marks  of  re- 
finement I  had  noticed  at  an  inn  I  had  lately  left.  I  had 
been  accosted  on  my  entrance  by  a  genteel  young  womaOi 

13* 


149  THE  WHITE  HILtS. 

who,  with  a  singular  mixture  of  simple  language,  plain 
dress,  self-respect,  modesty,  fluent,  and  appropriate  expres- 
sion, asked  my  wishes ;  and  after  a  few  questions  and  re- 
marks, which  betrayed  sense  and  knowledge,  proceeded  to 
assist  in  preparing  my  dinner.     At  the  table,  which  she 
spread,  she  presided  with  unaffected  ease  and  dignity,  and 
made  me  almost  forget  an  excellent  meal  by  iicr  more  inter- 
esting conversation.     She  gave  me  a  sketch  of  the  wm- 
ter-scenery  in  this  inhospitable  region,  and  showed  that 
there  was  sufficient  reason  for  bestowing  the  epithet  wild 
upon  the  Ammonoosuc,  which  poured  by  within  hearing  of 
the  house.     After  dinner,  a  little  library  was  thrown  open 
to  me,  and  I  had  a  hundred  or  two  well-selected  and  well- 
read  volumes  at  my  disposal,  with  a  sofa,  and  solitude  for  a 
nap,  all  which  I  enjoyed. 

In  all  this  I  read  the  effects  of  a  good  private  and  public 
American  education.     The  young  mistress  of  the  house  had 
been  taught  at  the  academy  of  a  village  below;  and,  what 
was  of  greater  importance,  had  been  trained  up  by  a  mother 
of  no  common  character.     Some  persons  would  have  said 
that  she  had  been  accustomed  to  good  society;  but,  per- 
haps, that  was  not  true  in  the  usual  sense  of  thai  word, 
though  I  doubt  not  that  whatever  society  was  around  her 
was  good  in  a  better  sense :  that  is,  intelligent,  simple,  and 
virtuous.     But  what  ia  generally  intended  by  good  society, 
is  that  of  fashionable  life,  which  is  no  more  able  to  form 
such  a  character  as  we  approve  than  the  wild  Ammonoosuc 
is  to  make  a  purling  rivulet.     To  those  who  know  our  state 
of  society,  it  will  be  sufficient  to  add,  that  the  lady  of  whom 
I  speak  had  been  a  teacher  in  the  Sabbath-school  before 
her  marriage,  and  betrayed  in  her  conversation  an  acquaint- 
ance with  some  of  those  other  great  systems  of  benevolence 
which  so  much  interest,  excite,  and  bind  together  the  Prot- 
estant church,  while  they  enlarge  the  views  of  individuals, 
and  give  a  powerful  direction  to  the  public  mind. 

As  1  proceeded,  savage  life  seemed  more  and  more  to 
thicken  around  me ;  and  after  I  had  become  weary  of  look- 
ing for  another  habitation  among  the  lofty  hemlocks,  trailuig 
with  tufts  and  streamers  of  moss,  I  began  to  reflect  agaia 


on  the 

found 

any  ej 

thcUr 

origin 

tended 

questic 

this  iin 

it  all  1 

or  a  V 

though 

preach 

and  th< 

subject 

andthi 

I  sh 
party  ^ 
the  m 
supper 
friends 
cans,  ^ 
dischai 
thatih 
of  mile 
the  sta 
were  <] 
ished  I 
and  cv 
admire 
only  ir 
nature 
as  wel 
natural 
stance: 

Asfi 
ment,  i 
graft; 
CounU 
chiuer 


HILLS. 

of  simple  language,  plain 
nt,  and  appropriate  expres- 
er  a  few  questions  and  re- 
id  knowledge,  proceeded  to 
At  the  table,  which  she 
icted  ease  and  dignity,  and 
lent  meal  by  her  more  inter- 
3  me  a  sketch  of  the  win- 
:  region,  and  showed  that 
bestowing  the  epithet  wild 
poured  by  within  hearing  of 
e  library  was  thrown  open 
two  well-selected  and  well- 
ith  a  sofa,  and  solitude  for  a 

)f  a  good  private  and  public 
ng  mistress  of  the  house  had 
a  village  below ;  and,  what 
been  trained  up  by  a  mother 
le  persons  would  have  said 
1  to  good  society;  but,  per- 
U8u.al  sense  of  thai  word, 
ver  society  was  around  her 
at  is,  intelligent,  simple,  and 
lly  intended  by  good  society, 
ich  is  no  more  able  to  form 
B  than  the  wild  Ammonoosuc 
ro  those  who  know  our  state 
o  add,  that  the  lady  of  whom 
n  the  Sabbath-school  before 
her  conversation  an  aequaini- 
great  systems  of  benevolence 
!,  and  bind  together  the  Prot- 
rge  the  views  of  individuals, 

0  the  public  mind. 

seemed  more  and  more  to 

1  had  become  weary  of  look- 
iig  the  lofty  hemlocks,  trailing 
)S3,  I  began  to  reflect  agaia 


THE  REriNEMENT  OE  SOaEXr. 


147 


on  the  civilization  I  had  left.  If  intelligence,  thought  I,  ig 
found  in  the  Scotch  and  Swiss  mountains,  where  is  there 
any  excuse  for  its  not  penetrating  the  remotest  regions  of 
the  United  States,  where  population  exists  1  What  is  the 
origin  and  nature  of  our  refinement,  and  how  can  it  be  ex- 
tended and  perpetuated  ?  Who  shall  answer  for  us  these 
questions  ?  Who  shall  tell  us  how  we  may  beat  act  on 
this  important  subject  ?  Where  is  the  man  who  has  given 
it  all  the  consideration  it  deserves !  Is  there  a  habitation 
or  a  university  which  contains  the  individual  T  If  so,  his 
thoughts  should  be  known  over  the  whole  country ;  he  should 
preach  to  us  all ;  he  should  instruct  the  nation  in  their  duties 
and  their  destiny.  Certain  it  is,  that  if  we  would  study  the 
subject  aright,  we  must  divest  our  minds  of  foreign  views, 
and  think  independently  and  for  ourselves. 

I  shall  not  easily  forget  the  admiration  excited  among  a 
party  of  distinguished  travellers,  a  few  summers  since,  by 
the  manners  of  a  young  woman  who  attended  them  at 
supper,  in  a  little  country  inn  in  Massachusetts.  The 
friends,  who  were  partly  Spaniards  and  partly  South  Ameri- 
cans, were  so  much  struck  with  her  dignity  and  grace  in 
discharging  the  humble  duties  assigned  her  by  her  parents, 
that  they  often  made  it  the  subject  of  conversation  hundreds 
of  miles  distant.  Yet  they  never  seemed  able  to  appreciate 
the  state  of  things  among  which  she  had  been  educated,  and 
were  quite  at  a  loss  to  account  for  the  growth  of  such  pol- 
ished manntiS  in  a  state  of  entire  non-intercourse  with  courts 
and  even  cities.  To  me  it  never  was  surprising  that  they 
admired  the  reality  of  what  they  had  previously  admired 
only  in  counterfeits ;  and  as  I  had  some  knowledge  of  the 
nature  of  the  society  to  wliich  they  had  been  accustomed, 
as  well  as  of  that  in  which  she  had  been  bred,  I  saw  how 
natural  was  their  error,  how  unavoidable,  in  their  circum- 
stances, their  ignorance  and  doubt. 

As  for  good  manners,  that  external  sign  of  internal  refine- 
ment, those  of  a  genuine  nature  can  never  spring  from  a 
grafl ;  they  are  the  fruit  of  a  good  heart  and  a  sound  head. 
Counterfeits  may  be  fabricated,  but  it  is  an  expense  of  ma- 
chinery often  incalculable,  and  after  all  their  baseness  is 


r 


148 


THE  WHITE  HILtS. 


usually  discoverable,  at  least  by  those  who  have  any  ac- 
quaintance  with  the  pure  metal.    Master  Rattlebrain,  junior, 
is  sent  to  a  dancing-school  by  his  half-fashionable  half-seri- 
ous mother,  not  to  learn  to  dance,  not  to  waste  time  or 
money  particularly,  but  to  form  his  manners.     This  is  con- 
sidered necessary  in  Paris ;  and  the  Parisians  are  the  politest 
people  on  the  globe.    This  is  a  better  reason  than  a  certain 
sort  of  people  generally  admit  in  questions  of  moment ;  and 
the  youth  is  perhaps  found  a  few  years  after  improving  his 
manners  in  the  capital  of  fashion.     A  whirl  of  dressing, 
spurting,  tandem,  and,  perhaps,  four-in-hand  succeeds,  and 
in  a  few  years  you  may  write  his  epitaph,  if  you  would 
tell  the  truth,  "  Here  lies  a  victim  of  good-breeding — falsely 
so  called."    Ah,  these  juvenile  frivolities  lead  to  dissipations 
of  the  mind  and  heart,  which  the  fond  parent  sees  about  as 
clearly  as  he  does  those  of  the  morals  and  manners  which 
too  often  succeed  them  when  more  removed  from  parental 
oversight.     Yet  this  springs  not  from  any  inherent  vice  in 
the  pleasing  exercises,  but  more  from  the  want  of  that  sound 
domestic  education  and  virtuous  and  sensible  example,  by 
which  good  manners  should  be  implanted  and  cultivated. 

Parents  who  are  easy  and  refined  in  their  manners,  need 
not  have  boorish  chUdren ;  and  if  they  give  a  son  or  daughter 
intelligence,  and  accustom  him  to  talk  sense,  and  to  exercise 
kindness  and  to  show  respect  to  those  around  him,  they  need 
not  fear  that  he  will  anywhere  speak  like  a  fool,  or  act  with 
impropriety. 

My  reflections  on  such  subjects,  however,  were  interrupted 
by  the  imposing  wildness  of  the  scenery  around  me ;  and 
though  I  may,  perhaps,  have  penetrated  further  into  this 
matter,  I  will  not  longer  trouble  my  readers  with  such  re- 
nifirks 

After  a  solitary  ride  of  several  hours  through  Breton 
Woods,  along  an  avenue  cut  through  the  forest,  with  innu- 
merable tall  trees  rising  on  both  sides,  and  almost  covering 
me  from  the  sky,  I  reached  Rosebrook's  house.  In  a  world 
of  silence  and  solitude,  the  human  voice,  form,  and  face  are 
valued  as  much  above  their  worth  as  they  are  often  depre- 
ciated in  the  crowd  of  a  city.  I  had  got  tired  of  loneliness, 
whether  of  myself  or  trees,  I  cannot  tell— I  believe  of  both ; 


forlh 
real  pi 
tliank 
men  ai 
several 
"  whei 
"A 
men  st 
ing  for 
in  feat 
robust, 
ture  w 
deers' 
them; 
giest  f 
region! 
nature, 
among 
familia 
deep  ii 
and  as 


Afle 
is  thre 
had  ap 
restrici 
openec 
I  there 
ground 
rain  w 
now  re 
throug 
genera 
north  ( 
going  i 
my  ho 
have  c 


HILLS. 


XTHAM  CRAWrORD'8. 


149 


y  those  who  have  any  ac- 
Master  Rattlebrain,  junior, 
is  half-fashionable  half-seri- 
ance,  not  to  waste  time  or 
his  manners.     This  is  con- 
the  Parisians  are  the  politest 
better  reason  than  a  certain 
n  questions  of  moment ;  and 
•w  years  after  improving  his 
[lion.     A  whirl  of  dressing, 
,  four-in-hand  succeeds,  and 
3  his  epitaph,  if  you  would 
m  of  good-breeding — falsely 
rivolities  lead  to  dissipations 
he  fond  parent  sees  about  as 
e  morals  and  manners  which 
more  removed  from  parental 
lot  from  any  inherent  vice  in 
B  from  the  want  of  that  sound 
IS  and  sensible  example,  by 
implanted  and  cultivated, 
efined  in  their  manners,  need 
if  they  give  a  son  or  daughter 
to  talk  sense,  and  to  exercise 
)  those  around  him,  they  need 
speak  like  a  fool,  or  act  with 

Its,  however,  were  interrupted 

he  scenery  around  me ;  and 

penetrated  further  into  this 

le  my  readers  with  such  re- 

iveral  hours  through  Breton 
through  the  forest,  with  innu- 
th  sides,  and  almost  covering 
jsebrook's  house.  In  a  world 
man  voice,  form,  and  face  are 
orth  as  they  are  often  depre- 
I  had  got  tired  of  loneliness, 
sannot  tell — I  believe  of  both ; 


for  I  hailed  a  plain  wooden-house,  barn-yard,  and  cattle  with 
real  pleasure.  I  had  an  oiler  of  dining  alone ;  but,  "  No,  I 
thank  you,"  said  I,  "  I  have  just  been  alone." — "  Well,  the 
men  are  just  sitting  down  to  dinner,"  said  the  hostess,  "  and 
several  of  the  neighbours  are  here." — "  Neighbours,"  said  I, 
*'  where  do  you  find  articles  of  that  description  1" 

"  A  door  was  soon  opened,  and  I  found  nearly  a  dozen 
men  standing  by  the  wails  round  a  table,  courteously  wait- 
ing for  the  stranger  to  take  his  seat.  They  looked  so  rough 
in  features,  dress,  and  complexion,  and  were  so  tall  and 
robust,  that  I  felt  as  if  they  would  hard'y  own  common  na- 
ture with  a  puny  mortal  like  me.  Over  their  heads  were 
deers'  horns  with  old  hats,  and  heads  of  flax  hung  upon 
them ;  and  there  was  an  array  of  the  coarsest  and  shag- 
giest garments,  which  intimated  that  we  were  hard  by  the 
regions  of  perpetual  winter.  But  greater  hilarity,  more  good- 
nature, good  sense,  and  ready  humour,  I  rarely  witnessed 
among  any  dinner-circle  of  the  size.  They  talked  as 
familiarly  of  a  friendly  call  on  a  neighbour  six  or  eight  miles 
deep  in  the  forest,  as  if  it  were  but  a  step  across  the  street ; 
and  as  for  wild  turkeys,  bears, 

"  And  such  amall  deer, 
They'd  been  Tom's  food  for  many  a  year." 

Afler  having  got  half-way  to  Ethan  A.  Crawford's,  that 
is  three  miles,  I  was  suddenly  apprized  of  a  shower,  which 
had  approached  without  my  being  aware,  on  account  of  the 
restriction  put  upon  my  eyesight  by  the  forest  trees,  which 
opened  to  my  view  only  their  countless  and  endless  vistas. 
I  therefore  pressed  on,  and  at  length  emerged  into  more  open 
ground,  where  the  wind  blew  strongly  in  my  face,  drove  the 
rain  with  violence,  and  speedily  wet  me  to  the  skin.  I  had 
now  reached,  as  I  afterward  learned,  the  mouth  of  the  pass 
through  the  mountains  called  the  Notch,  where  the  wind 
generally  blows  with  considerable  force,  and  always  either 
north  or  south,  as  through  a  tunnel  or  a  trumpet.  As  I  was 
going  at  a  gallop,  with  the  storm  driving  hard  against  me, 
my  horse  suddenly  sprung  aside,  in  a  manner  wliich  might 
have  cost  me  a  bone  or  two  a  week  before,  when  I  was  less 


tM 


THE  WHITI  HILLS. 


aceuatomed  to  the  saddle ;  and  I  did  not  at  first  discover  the 
cause.  We  were  near  the  Ammonoosuc,  here  a  small  but 
headlong  stream ;  and  the  current  was  dashing  down  a  ledge 
of  rocks  a  little  on  the  right.  My  ride  was  such  as  doubly 
to  prepare  me  for  the  enjoyment  of  a  shelter  and  society ; 
but  the  beauty  of  Crawford's  meadow,  as  the  storm  ceased, 
and  the  sun  shone  upon  it  through  the  breaking  clouds,  made 
me  linger  to  enjoy  the  first  scene  of  beaHty  in  the  White 
Mountains  which  is  presented  to  the  traveller  on  this  route. 
A  broad  and  level  lawn  now  spread  before  me,  covered  with 
that  rich  green  which  the  herbage  here  receives  in  the  short 
but  rapid  summer ;  and  the  solitary  dwelling  of  the  hardy 
mountaineer  appeared,  with  a  few  cattle  straying  here  and 
there.  The  whole  was  apparently  shut  out  from  the  world 
by  a  wall  of  immense  mountains  in  front  and  on  either  side, 
whose  mantle  of  foliage  extended  nearly  to  their  summits, 
but  led  several  bald  peaks  spotted  with  snow,  where  the 
elevation  forbade  a  leaf  to  put  forth,  or  a  root  of  the 
■mallest  herb  to  penetrate.  This  scene  seemed  so  attract- 
ive, that  I  was  constrained  to  inquire  why  there  were  not 
more  inhabitants.  The  reply  presented  a  sad  reverse.  For 
two  months  only  out  of  the  twelve  are  the  mountains  ac- 
cessible, so  that  few  travellers  visit  the  place  for  pleasure. 
The  meadow,  with  all  its  beauty,  will  scarcely  yield  any 
thing  in  the  short  summer,  so  that  grain  must  be  outained 
elsewhere ;  and,  in  short,  the  place  would  probably  have 
been  abandoned  long  ago  but  for  the  winter  travelling,  which 
makes  the  house  the  resort  of  many  country  people,  with  their 
loaded  sleighs  in  going  and  returning  from  Portland  and 
other  places  on  the  coast.  The  valley,  an  object  of  attrac- 
tion only  during  a  few  weeks,  and  a  great  thoroughfare  but  in 
the  winter,  has  its  alternations  of  liveliness  and  almost  en- 
tire solitude,  which  are  looked  upon  by  the  few  inhabitants 
of  the  spot  with  great  interest,  and  supply  themes  for  many 
an  entertaining  tale  of  woodsmen  and  travellers,  sleigh- 
drivers*  adventures,  and  the  habits  and  pranks  of  wild  beasts. 
It  was  arranged  that  a  party  of  travellers,  assembled  at 
the  house,  should  set  out  at  an  early  hour  for  the  ascent 
of  Mount  Washington. 


I 


ilLLS. 

did  not  at  first  discover  the 
onoosuc,  here  a  small  but 
was  dashing  down  a  ledge 
y  ride  was  such  as  doubly 
of  a  shelter  and  society; 
idow,  as  the  storm  ceased, 
I  the  breaking  clouds,  made 
ne  of  beanty  in  the  White 
the  traveller  on  this  route, 
ad  before  mc,  covered  with 
I  here  receives  in  the  short 
ary  dwelling  of  the  hardy 
V  cattle  straying  here  and 
ly  shut  out  from  the  world 
in  front  and  on  either  side, 
:d  nearly  to  their  summits, 
ted  with  snow,  where  the 
t  forth,  or  a  root  of  the 
I  scene  seemed  so  attract- 
quire  why  there  were  not 
sented  a  sad  reverse.  For 
Ive  are  the  mountains  ac- 
sit  the  place  for  pleasure. 
ty,  will  scarcely  yield  any 
hat  grain  must  be  outained 
ilace  would  probably  have 
ihe  winter  travelling,  which 
ly  country  people,  with  their 
urning  from  Portland  and 
valley,  an  object  of  attrac* 
a  great  thoroughfare  but  in 
liveliness  and  almost  en- 
pon  by  the  few  inhabitants 
id  supply  themes  for  many 
len  and  travellers,  sleigh* 
)  and  pranks  of  wild  beasts, 
of  travellers,  assembled  at 
early  hour  for  the  ascent 


161 


CHAPTER  XX. 

Excur.ion  to  Mount  Washington- W.lk  through  the  ForMt-Th« 

Waking  after  a  short  but  invigorating  slumber,  and  recoN 
leetmg  where  I  was,  I  found  by  the  splendour  of  the  moon 
that  the  time  had  arrived  for  our  departure.    As  we  saw  the 
tranquillity  of  the  meadow  and  the  majesty  of  the  mountains, 
which  seemed  to  have  marched  nearer  to  us  in  the  silence  and 
darkness  of  night,  the  impressions  produced  upon  the  feelings 
were  of  the  most  elevating  nature.     We  were  soon  after 
buried  m  the  forest,  following  our  guide,  who  ascertained  his 
course  among  the  vines,  brush,  and  fallen  logs,  by  what 
seemed  to  us  more  like  instinct  than  reason,  in  the  absence 
as  It  appeared  of  every  evidence  furnished  to  the  eye  by  ob- 
jects around.     The  cold  dew  soon  drenched  our  garments 
wherever  they  were  brushed  by  the  folit  ve ;  but  the  active 
exercise  it  cost  us  to  keep  pace  with  him,  repelled  the  chill- 
ing influence  with  a  warm  and  agreeable  glow.     We  were 
following  up  the  wild  valley  through  which  the  Ammonoosuc 
pursues  its  early  course,  like  a  favourite  child  among  the 
lovely  and  secluded  scenes  of  home,  far  from  which  its 
future  life  will  bear  it,  to  return  no  more.     During  the  tre- 
mendous flood  of  1826,  this  brook  was  suddenly  swollen 
to  a  resistless  torrent,  and  spreading  over  the  valley,  ploughed 
up  Its  channel,  overthrew  tall  trees,  some  of  which  are  still 
left  in  heaps  upon  the  ground,  whUe  others  were  borne  by 
It  into  the  Connecticut. 

We  passed  the  little  spot  where  our  guide  once  stopped 
to  await  the  rising  of  the  moon  to  light  him  onward,  and 
where  he  was  waked  by  the  steps  of  a  bear,  which  had 
come  to  eat  the  whortleberries  growing  around  him.   As  we 


1S2 


THE  WlirrC  HILLS' 


vtere  more  rapidly  ascemlinf?  tlian  we  supposed  all  this  time, 
our  rai»id  gait  gave  us  con8ideral)lc  fatigue ;  and  when  we 
approached  tiic  Utile  slu'lters,  thatciied  willi  birch-bark, 
■luffed  Willi  green  moss,  and  sircwn  with  spruce  branches, 
where  wc  were  to  breakfast,  we  were  mucii  cheered  at  the 
prospect  of  repose. 

A  roaring  lire  was  soon  kindled  between  the  two  wig- 
wams ;  and,  stretching  ourselves  upon  tiic  green  and  sloping 
couch  which  had  been  prepared  for  the  weary,  in  the  warmth 
of  the  blaze,  and  amid  the  delightful  perfume  of  tlie  ever- 
green  leaves  beneath  us,  we  fell  asleep.  When  we  awoke, 
it  was  broad  daylight,  even  in  that  valley,  of  such  apparently 
immeasurable  depth ;  and  after  a  hasty  meal  of  dry  bread 
and  flitches  of  salt-meat,  roasted  in  the  flame,  on  forked 
sticks,  with  the  best  of  all  sauces  and  the  highest  spiriu, 
we  prepared  for  the  most  arduous  part  of  our  expedition, 
which  now  lay  before  us.  Nature  seemed  rousing  from  her 
slumbers ;  and  in  such  a  region  motion  and  repose  are 
alike  sublime.  Millions  of  tree-tops  gently  undulated  in  the 
rising  breeze,  and  the  ceaseless  sound  of  the  rushing  brook 
was  heard  in  the  pauses  of  our  conversation.  Compared 
with  the  large  trunks  of  the  trees  around,  and  especially 
with  the  enormous  mountains,  whose  lofty  society  we  were 
seeking,  our  huts,  ourselves,  and  our  worldly  intereste 
shrunk  into  insects'  concerns. 

The  ascent  of  Mount  Washington  is  a  very  laborious 
task,  although  a  great  part  of  its  elevation  above  the  sea 
and  of  Connecticut  River,  is  of  course  surmounted  before 
arriving  at  its  base.  I  was  not  prepared  to  find  this  noble 
eminence  rising  so  abruptly  as  it  does  from  the  side  on 
which  we  approached  it.  After  leaving  our  resting-place  a 
few  yards,  and  entering  a  thicker  shade  of  forest  trees,  we 
began  a  steep  ascent,  over  a  surface  broken  by  roots,  and 
occasionally  by  loose  stones,  which  soon  checked  the  ardour 
with  which  we  commenced  it.  It  was  nearly  as  steep,  I 
believe,  as  the  side  of  the  cone  of  Vesuvius,  though  not  so 
smooth.  How  little  do  we  think,  in  oiur  towns  and  cities, 
in  the  midst  of  our  indolent  habits,  of  what  the  muscles  are 
•ble  to  perform,  or  of  the  pleasure  we  may  derive  from  their 


exercise. 

ascent. 

say^  cogi 

which  til 

nauseou! 

spirit  of 

beach,  a 

went,  ov 

as  insen 

No  Of 

cent,  by 

and  it  w 

close  ai 

change  i 

This  WE 

step,  th( 

nearly  e 

these   f< 

ished    i 

peared  < 

clouded 

steps;  1 

ing,  unti 

deep  cr( 

treading 

now  th( 

these  gi 

had  disi 

surface 

of  the 

edges,  1 

than  w( 

Befo 

whose  I 

we  had 

before  i 

that  th( 

mighty 


I  HILLS. 

an  we  supposed  all  this  time, 
riil)lc  fatigue ;  and  when  we 
,  thatciied  witli  birch-bark, 
iruwn  with  spruce  branches, 
fe  were  mucli  cheered  at  the 

[idled  between  the  two  wig- 
:<s  upon  tiic  green  and  sloping 

I  for  the  weary,  in  the  warmth 
ijrlitful  perfume  of  tlie  evcr- 

II  asleep.  When  we  awoke, 
lat  valley,  of  such  apparently 
r  a  hasty  meal  of  dry  bread 
itcd  in  the  flame,  on  forked 
Luces  and  the  highest  spirits, 
uous  part  of  our  expedition, 
ture  seemed  rousing  from  her 
;ion  motion  and  repose  are 
B-top«  gently  undulated  in  the 
;s  sound  of  the  rushing  brook 
ur  conversation.  Compared 
trees  around,  and  especially 

whose  lofty  society  we  were 
,  and  our   worldly  interests 

shington  is  a  very  laborious 
f  its  elevation  above  the  sea 
of  course  surmounted  befora 
lot  prepared  to  find  this  noble 
as  it  does  from  the  side  on 
;er  leaving  our  resting-place  a 
ker  shade  of  forest  trees,  we 
surface  broken  by  roots,  and 
vhich  soon  checked  the  ardour 
it.  It  was  nearly  as  steep,  I 
le  of  Vesuvius,  though  not  so 
link,  in  our  towns  and  cities, 
abits,  of  what  the  muscles  are 
isure  we  may  derive  from  theii 


iSCKNT  0»  MOUNT  WASIIINOTOM. 


183 


exercise.  Three  or  four  men  were  now  toiling  up  this 
ascent.  Ovei  <lifm  the  physicians  had  often  bent,  I  dare 
say^  cogitating  what  names  to  give  the  forms  of  debility  by 
which  they  had  been  stretched  upon  their  beds,  and  what 
nauseous  drug  they  should  apply  to  expel  once  more  the  evil 
spirit  of  luxury.  Now,  like  a  vessel  just  from  the  graving 
beach,  after  setting  up  her  shrouds  and  backstays,  on  they 
went,  over  sXomn  and  roots  and  every  obstacle,  apparently 
as  insensible  to  fatigue  as  so  many  machines. 

No  opening  through  the  forest  is  afforded  during  the  as- 
cent, by  which  a  glimpse  may  be  caught  of  the  world  beneath ; 
and  it  was  long  before  we  had  any  relief  from  the  sight  of 
close  and  leafy  trees  around  and  above  us.  The  first 
change  which  we  noticed  was  that  in  the  species  of  the  treas. 
This  was  instantaneous.  We  left,  as  it  were  with  a  single 
step,  the  deciduous  forest,  and  entered  a  belt  of  tall  firs, 
nearly  equal  in  size  and  thickness.  After  walking  among 
these  for  a  few  minutes,  they  became  suddenly  dimin- 
ished in  size  one-half  or  more,  and  speedily  disap- 
peared entirely,  leaving  us  exposed  to  the  heat  of  an  un- 
clouded sun.  Our  guide  now  cautioned  us  to  look  to  pur 
steps ;  but  we  did  not  fully  appreciate  the  value  of  his  warn- 
ing, until  we  had  two  or  three  times  sunk.with  one  foot  into 
deep  crevices  between  the  loose  rocks  on  which  we  were 
treading,  concealed  by  thick  evergreen  bushes,  which  were 
now  the  only  vegetable  production  remaining.  Although 
these  gradually  became  reduced  in  size,  it  was  not  untU  they 
had  disappeared  that  we  could  walk  with  security.  The 
surface  had  ere  this  become  less  steep,  but  the  large  size 
of  the  rocks,  in  many  places,  with  their  ragged  points  and 
edges,  rendered  the  passage  still  arduous,  and  more  slow 
than  we  could  have  desired. 

Before  us  rose  a  vast  nodule,  of  an  uniform  gray  colour, 
whose  summit  appeared  at  but  a  short  distance ;  but  when 
we  had  reached  the  point,  we  found  another  swelling  convex 
before  us,  and  another  beyond  that ;  so  that,  having  exclaimed 
that  the  highest  peak  in  the  Union  was,  after  all,  not  so  very 
mighty  a  thing,  we  at  last  had  to  qualify  the  expression,  and 

14 


154 


THE  WRITE  HILLS. 


to  say  with  respect,  that  Mount  Washington  had  some  claim 
to  its  name.  Indeed,  when  we  began  to  perceive  that  we 
were  already  above  the  inferior  summits,  named  after  several 
of  the  other  Presidents,  which  had  appeared  so  great  from 
below  and  at  a  distance,  we  felt  that  we  were  in  the  region 
of  real  exaltation ;  and  although  Washington  was  still  above 
us,  could  look  down  upon  Adams,  Jefferson,  Madison, 
Monroe,  and  what  not. 

When  we  find  a  spot  where  man  cannot  exist,  we  want 
to  see  what  can ;  and  I  began  to  look  round  for  any  thing 
with.legs.  Black  flies,  of  course,  like  volunteer  jurymen, 
will  not  stay  where  the  absence  of  mankind'does  not  allow 
them  to  find  employment.  Nothing  with  life  could  I  catch 
or  see  but  one  miserable  black  bug. 

One  of  the  earliest  accounts  of  the  ascent  of  this  noble 
eminence  which  I  ever  read  represented,  I  recollect,  that 
the  summit  was  scattered  with  fragments  of  the  limbs  of 
pine  or  hemlock  trees,  bleached  by  long  exposure,  and  re- 
sembling stags'  horns.  The  comparison  was  a  very  apt 
one.  These  bits  of  wood  have,  no  doubt,  been  carried  up 
by  some  of  the  violent  gusts  of  wind  which  are  common  in 
mountainous  regions.  A  gentleman  once  described  one 
which  he  saw  some  years  ago.  A  roaring  was  first 
heard,  soon  after  the  tops  of  the  forest  trees  on  the 
summit  of  the  opposite  mount'iin  were  bent  violently  down, 
and  then  many  of  their  knarled  br inches  were  seen  flying 
in  the  aif.  The  wood  found  on  Mount  Washington  has 
proved  convenient  to  visiters  sufiering  with  cold,  as  it  will 
make  an  excellent  fire. 

For  ourselves,  we  suflered  most  from  thirst ;  and  could 
hardly  allow  our  eyes  their  es:pected  feast  upon  the  bound- 
less landscape,  until  we  had  demanded  of  our  obliging  guide 
to  be  conducted  to  the  icy  springs  of  which  he  had  spoken. 
He  soon  brought  us  to  a  hole  in  the  rocks,  where,  only  three 
or  four  feet  down,  we  saw  a  small  bed  of  ice,  which  was 
slowly  trickling  away  in  tears,  under  the  indirect  heat  of 
the  sun.  We  caught  these  pure  drops,  and  found  them  a 
most  refreshing  draught.    This  was  the  highest  head  of  the 


Ammono 

saved,  al 

and  heat 

We  hi 

to  reveal 

prepared 

highest  1 

tains,  the 

from  oui 

drive  bj 

dry,  and 

and  then 

to  be  r( 

thousani 

moment 

than  M< 

selves,  1 

from  ea( 

It  no' 

for  the  i 

howevei 

»  There 

lake '." 

— and  ( 

pearing 

tain  sid 

had  3h( 

vapour, 

but  din 

the  ron 

lost,  or 

of  tenfi 

perhapi 

fore  us 

caldror 

though 

sudden 

objects 


HILL8. 

Washington  had  some  claim 
began  to  perceive  that  we 
summits,  named  after  several 
had  appeared  so  great  from 
t  that  we  were  in  the  region 
1  Washington  was  still  above 
Ldams,  Jefferson,  Madison, 

!  man  cannot  exist,  we  want 
1  to  looii  round  for  any  thing 
nse,  like  volunteer  jurymen, 
3  of  mankind'does  not  allow 
(thing  with  life  could  I  catch 
bug. 

;8  of  the  ascent  of  this  noble 
represented,  I  recollect,  that 
I  fragments  of  the  limbs  of 
ed  by  long  exposure,  and  re- 
comparison  was  a  very  apt 
;,  no  doubt,  been  carried  up 
f  wind  which  are  common  in 
itleman  once  described  one 
igo.  A  roaring  was  first 
of  the  forest  trees  on  the 
lin  were  bent  violently  down, 
3d  br  inches  were  seen  flying 
on  Mount  Washington  has 
suffering  with  cold,  as  it  will 

nost  from  thirst;  and  could 
pected  feast  upon  the  bound- 
manded  of  our  obliging  guide 
ings  of  which  he  had  spoken. 
1  the  rocks,  where,  only  three 
small  bed  of  ice,  which  was 
^,  under  the  indirect  heat  of 
ire  drops,  and  found  them  a 
s  was  the  highest  head  of  the 


VIEW  FROM  MOUNT  WAIHINGTON. 


15S 


Ammonoosuc  River  which  we  could  discover,  and  we  had 
saved,  at  least,  a  portion  of  its  intended  current  a  rough 
and  headlong  descent  down  a  dreary  mountain. 

We  had  seen  the  landscape  below  several  times  beginning 
to  reveal  itself  through  the  mist ;  but  now,  when  we  had 
prepared  ourselves  to  enjoy  it,  and  taken  our  seats  on  the 
highest  blocks  of  ragged  granite  between  the  Rocky  Moun- 
tains, the  Ocean,  and  the  North  Pole,  we  found  it  all  concealed 
from  our  eyes.     Clouds  of  gray  mist  and  vapour  began  to 
drive  by  us,  which  moistened  our  garments,  scarcely  yet 
dry,  and  soon  chilled  us  to  an  uncomfortable  degree.    Now 
and  then  acres,  nay,  cubic  miles  of  clouds  seemed  suddenly 
to  be  rolled  away  from  beneath  us,  leaving  frightful  gulfs 
thousands  of  feet  down,  yet  bottomless ;  and  these  in  another 
moment  would    be  filled  with    mist,  heaped    up  higher 
than  Mount  Jeflferson,  Adams,  Washington,  and  even  our- 
selves, who  were  last  enveloped  again,  and  oflen  concealed 
from  each  other's  view. 

It  now  proved  that  we  had  chosen  an  unfavourable  day 
for  the  ascent ;  but  we  had  occasional  views,  which  did  not, 
however,  embrace  the  whole  of  tlie  extensive  panorama. 
"There's  the  lake!  There's  the  lake!  There's  the 
lake !"  exclaimed  Crawford — "  Quick,  quick,  look  here !" 

and  there  we  saw  a  bright  gleam  towards  the  south,  ap» 

pearing  beyond  a  whole  chaos  of  mountain  peaks  and  moun- 
tain sides,  gulfs,  dens,  and  chasms.  Winnipiseogee  Lake 
had  3hone  feebly  out  for  a  moment,  between  two  clouds  of 
vapour,  each  large  enough  to  cover  a  whole  State,  and  wai 
but  dimly  and  indefinitely  revealed,  with  a  large  extent  of 
the  romantic  country  on  this  side  of  it.  But  distances  were 
lost,  or  rather  the  eye  and  the  mind  seemed  to  be  possessed 
of  tenfold  their  usual  compass  and  penetration ;  and  this, 
perhaps,  was  owing  to  a  vast  and  bottomless  abyss  just  be- 
fore  us,  overflowing  with  vapours  like  an  inameasurable 
caldron  sitting  on  a  volcano,  over  which  the  sight  and  the 
thoughts  had  first  to  spring  to  survey  the  sudden  scene,  so 
suddenly  withdrawn.  While  the  eye  rested  upon  the  distant 
objects,  it  could  not  forget  the  fearful  leap  it  had  made,  and 


156 


THE  WHITS  HILL8. 


the  poor  insect  body  it  had  left  oa  the  top  of  Mount  Wash 
ington. 

"  Well,  ihere,  there,  there  it  opens  at  last !"  cried  our 
guide  once  more;  and  turning  towards  the  north-eatstwe 
saw  a  vast  extent  of  country,  comparatively  level,  yet  with 
its  lines  of  fields  and  roads  thrown  into  every  variety  of 
curve  and  angle,  showing  that  the  surface  was  very  far  from 
being  most  favourable  either  to  the  cultivation  of  the  soil  or 
the  transportation  of  its  fruits.    "  There's  the  Androscoggin ; 
don't  you  see  it  shine  like  an  eel  along  through  that  valley  1" 
The  bright  course  of  a  stream  was  seen  dividing  the  dark 
surface  of  the  earth,  like  the  white  trunk  of  a  silver  birch 
teen  on  the  verge  of  a  green  wood,  while  its  tributaries,  less 
broad  and  less  distinctly  visible,  gleamed  like  the  branches. 
The  mountain  on  that  side  descends  a  thousand  ftiet  or  more 
perpendicularly,  as  abruptly  as  the  Rock  of  Gibraltar  where 
it  looks  on  Spain ;  and  npthing  can  be  more  dangerous  than 
to  wander  without  great,  caution,  amid  such  mists  as  fre- 
quently surrounded  us.     Travellers  have  been  occasionally 
exposed  to  great  labours,  and  have  sometimes  suffered  much 
from  hunger  and  thirst  as  well  as  apprehension,  by  unad- 
visedly trusting  to  their  own  sagacity  in  visiting  this  place, 
often  so  difficult  to  find  and  to  leave.     A  man,  or  even  a 
party,  might  wander  for  hours  round  the  sides  of  the  moun- 
tain without  discovering  any  clue  to  the  proper  paths,  when 
the  Tapours  intercept  the  view  of  every  distant  object ;  and 
even  if  they  should  reach  the  bottom,  they  might  wander  in 
various  directions  in  the  forest  below. 

Towards  the  west  and  north  we  had  opportunities  to  con- 
template the  scene  at  leisure,  and  began  to  feel  familiar  with 
the  optical  habits  of  hawks  and  eagles,  by  looking  upon 
the  world  beneath  from  a  sublime  height  in  the  air.  On 
the  horizon  lay  the  Green  Mountains.  Distance  and  the 
contrast  with  nearer  and  more  elevated  peaks  seemed  to 
have  diminished  the  whole  range  to  a  mere  cornfield,  or  a 
garden-walk  broken  by  mole-hiils.  The  valley  of  the  Am- 
monrosuc  opened  beautifully  to  view  just  below  us ;  and 
Crawford  pointed  out  with  interest  his  secluded  dwelling  in 


the  midi 
cares,  ai 
shine  ar 
pencils  ( 
and  exc 
one  but : 

And  a 
that  of 
speak,  a 
of  the  ( 
mighty'a 
chains, 
tremble 
forests,  : 
eye!     I 
how  min 
and  wha 
habitant 
delight 
whose   1 
bound  t( 
construe 
far  trans 

A  nig 
fatigues 

Havir 
in  the  o 
hardy  E 
sorrel  h 
is  true, 
that  I  I 
again  at 
howevei 
end  Iro 
fatigue 
•trongl} 
ing  infli 
tion  whi 
able — I 


rnixS' 


SF9ECTS  OF  EXERCISE. 


167 


the  midat  of  the  verdant  meadow,  invaded  by  few  foreign 
cares,  and  solitary  but  for  nature's  society.  Gleams  of  sun- 
shine and  shadows  of  clouds  by  turns  drew  their  different 
pencils  over  the  beautiful  picture,  revealing  more  beauties 
and  exciting  more  emotions  than  I  could  describe,  or  any 
one  but  a  spectator  could  fully  enjoy. 

And  all  this  of  which  I  have  been  speaking,  or  rather  all 
that  of  which  I  have  been  thinking  while  attempting  to 
speak,  all  this  came  through  the  eye — the  narrow  window 
of  the  eye's  pupil !  Creation !  A  vast  extent  of  the  Al- 
mighty's handiwork;  tremendous  mountains  in  extended 
chains,  with  the  numberless  minor  hills  that  seemed  to 
tremble  in  their  presence ;  valleys,  plains,  and  rivers,  fields, 
forests,  and  villages,  all  comprehended  by  a  glance  of  the 
eye !  How  diminutive  a  watch-tower  is  the  human  frame ; 
how  minute  is  that  telescope,  yet  how  wonderful  its  power ; 
and  what  a  sentinel  must  he  be  who  stands  within,  the  in- 
habitant of  the  fabric,  the  gazer  through  this  glass,  for  whose 
delight  and  admiration  this  scene  was  spread  abroad,  for 
whose  temporary  use  these  bones  and  muscles  were 
bound  together,  this  curious  instrument  was  so  inimitably 
constructed,  and  ftir  whom  are  reserved  scenes  unknown, 
far  transcending  all  that  he  himself  can  yet  imagine. 

A  night  of  sweet  sleep,  like  that  of  a  child,  erased  the 
fatigues  of  that  day. 

Having  parted  from  my  new  friends,  who  were  travelling 
in  the  opposite  direction,  and  taken  leave  of  the  frank  and 
hardy  Ethan  Crawford  and  his  family,  I  mounted  again  my 
sorrel  horse,  after  a  separation  from  him  of  only  one  day,  it 
is  true,  but  which  had  been  filled  with  so  many  feelings 
that  I  had  a  great  deal  to  retrace  in  my  mind  to  get 
again  at  the  chain  of  though*  where  I  had  left  hici.  He, 
ountauis.  Distance  and  the  however,  seemed  glad  to  claim  acquaintance  with  me  again; 
re  elevated  peaks  seemed  to  and  I  rode  along  the  path  1  had  yesterday  passed  with 'some 
ige  to  a  mere  cornfield,  or  a  fatigue  on  foot,  reflecting  on  the  nature  of  man  which  so 
lills.  The  valley  of  the  Am-  strongly  tends  to  consult  luxury  and  ease,  and  the  depress- 
to  view  just  below  us ;  and  ing  influence  they  exercise  upon  body  and  mind.  The  mo. 
erest  his  secluded  dwelling  in  tion  which  the  animal  communicated  to  my  frame  was  agre«^ 

able — leaving  the  walking  muscles  in  s  state  of  repose,  and 


on  the  top  of  Mount  Wash- 

,  opens  at  last!"  cried  our 
towards  the  north-eatstwe 
comparatively  level,  yet  with 
thrown  into  every  variety  of 
ihe  surface  was  very  far  from 
the  cultivation  of  the  soil  or 
"  There's  the  Androscoggin ; 
si  along  through  that  valley!" 

I  was  seen  dividing  the  dark 
ivhite  trunk  of  a  silver  birch 
ood,  while  its  tributaries,  less 
!,  gleamed  like  the  branches, 
iends  a  thousand  iVjet  or  more 
the  Rock  of  Gibraltar  where 
f  can  be  more  dangerous  than 
m,  amid  such  mists  as  fre- 
sUers  have  been  occasionally 
ave  sometimes  suffered  much 

II  as  apprehension,  by  unad- 
lagacity  in  visiting  this  place, 
to  leave.  A  man,  or  even  a 
round  the  sides  of  the  moun- 
iue  to  the  proper  paths,  when 

of  every  distant  object ;  and ; 
bottom,  they  might  wander  in  i 

below. 

1  we  had  opportunities  to  con- 
ind  began  to  feel  familiar  with 
and  eagles,  by  looking  upon' 
ilime  height  in  the  air.     On 


158 


THE  WHITB  BILLS. 


jarring  the  whole  system.  The  chest,  braced  by  recent 
Bleep  following  real  fatigue,  and  by  the  breathing  of  pure 
mountain-air,  felt  prepared  for  harmony,  like  a  harp 
fresh  strung  with  wires  of  steel.  The  beauty  of  the  morn- 
ing light  on  the  sides  of  the  mountains  also  exalted  my  feel- 
ings, and  I  could  not  refrain  from  a  song  of  praise  in  accord- 
ance with  the  scene. 

<  I  travelled  four  miles  along  a  level  road,  winding  through 
a  dark  forest,  without  meeting  a  living  thing;  when  I 
reached  the  Notch  House,  which  stands  solitary  in  the 
little  Notch  meadow.  One  would  think  the  level  a  very 
low  one,  as  the  land  is  too  flat  to  be  well  drained.  The 
Ammonoosuc  had  been  left  a  little  behind,  when  I  reached 
the  Saco,  a  mere  book,  which  disappeared  in  front  of 
me  behind  a  rock.  Thither  the  road  led  me;  and  a 
sudden  turn  to  the  left  brought  me  into  the  gate  of  these 
raountains,  the  famous  Notch.  The  scene  changed  its 
aspect  to  v;ildness  and  sublimity,  and  the  Saco,  breaking  its 
glassy  surface  into  foam,  set  up  a  roar  which  it  continued 
to  make  for  thirty  miles,  when  it  reached  the  meadows  of 
Conway. 

It  would  be  pleasant  to  me  to  while  away  a  week  or  two  in 
these  mountains,  in  the  fancied  society  of  a  tasteful  and  indul- 
gent reader — one  of  those  patient  and  forbearing  beings 
whom  I  imagine  myself  talking  to  when  I  meet  with  any 
thing  truly  sublime  and  noble  in  my  travek :  but  I  knoAV 
very  well,  when  I  coolly  reflect,  that  it  is  presumption  to 
suppose  that  others  are  of  course  pleased  with  what  greatly 
delights  myself;  and,  however  unwillingly,  must  hasten 
through  this  gorge,  and  leave  numberless  objects  untouched : 
many  a  thought  and  sentiment  unexpressed.  In  going  twelve 
miles,  between  the  two  Crawford  houses,  I  lost  four  full 
hours  of  which  I  can  give  no  account,  unless  by  showing 
the  drawings  I  made  in  my  sketch-book,  or  deserving  points 
of  view  whose  details  are  impressed  on  my  memory.  Too 
thoughtless  of  time  even  to  look  at  my  watch,  forgetful  of 
food  and  rest, I  rode  and  walked, and  stopped  and  stood:  the 
Saco  roaring  and  rushing  on  one  side,  and  Sorrel  plodding 
along  on  the  other,  or  gazing  at  me  with  the  bridle  on  his 


i  BILLS. 

he  chest,  braced  by  recent 
1  by  the  breathing  of  pure 
for  harmony,  hke  a  harp 
The  beauty  of  the  morn- 
untains  also  exalted  my  feel- 
n  a  aong  of  praise  in  accord- 

,  level  road,  winding  through 
ng  a  living  thing;  when  I 
hich  stands  solitary  in  the 
)uld  think  the  level  a  very 
t  to  be  well  drained.  The 
little  behind,  when  I  reached 
ich   disappeared  in  front  of 

the  road  led  me;  and  a 
t  me  into  the  gate  of  these 
.  The  scene  changed  its 
y,  and  the  Saco,  breaking  its 
p  a  roar  which  it  continued 

it  reached  the  meadows  of 

I  while  away  a  week  or  two  in 
society  of  a  tasteful  and  indul- 
itient  and  forbearing  beings 
g  to  when  I  meet  with  any 
in  my  travels  :  but  I  knoAV 
ct,  that  it  is  presumption  to 
se  pleased  with  what  greatly 
3r  unwillingly,  must  hasten 
imberless  objects  untouched : 
jnexpressed.  In  going  twelve 
rford  houses,  I  lost  four  full 
account,  unless  by  showing 
;tch-book,  or  deserving  points 
essed  on  my  memory.  Too 
)ok  at  my  watch,  forgetful  of 
d,and  stopped  and  stood:  the 
)ne  side,  and  Sorrel  plodding 
\i  me  with  the  bridle  on  his 


JOVRNEY  TO  BSSTON. 


169 


neck  Poor  faithful  beast!  He  and  I  did  not  arrive  at 
ihe  intended  place  of  rest  till  late  in  the  afternoon,  and  had, 
I  presume!  the  latest  dinners  eaten  in  New-Hampshire  that 

'^^'artlet  is  a  pleasant  little  village,  in  a  circular  meadow, 
cieht  miles  below  the  elder  Crawford's;  and  not  until  I 
entered  it  did  I  feel  as  if  there  was  any  certamty  of  my  ever 
recovering  the  exercise  of  the  social  feelings.   How  little  do 
we  realii  i"  ^^^  family-circle,  the  vUlage,  or  the  city,  that 
we  are  dependent  on  the  vicinity  of  others  for  a  large  part  of 
our  daily  enjoyments;  how  many  gentle  vibrations  of  our 
hearts  are  caused  or  increased  by  the  movements  of  sympa- 
Thetic  chords  around  us;  and  how,  like  the  spheres,  we  are 
bound  to  our  places  by  a  thousand  mutual,  though  mvisible, 
influences.    If  the  savage  feels  at  home  m  the  forest,  as 
ih  as^e  do  at  the  sight  of  dwellings  and  cultivated  fields ; 
if  his  warmest  feelings  are  as  strongly  associated  with  the 
somids  and  objects  familiar  in  the  wilds,  as  ours  are  with  the 
lowing  of  cattle,  the  features  and  the  voices  of  men,  which  is 
undoubtedly  the  case,  who  canwonder  that  only  Christiamty 
has  been  able  to  induce  him  to  change  his  habite  ? 

The  days  I  spent  on  the  borders  of  that  most  varied  and 
beautiful  lake,  Winnipiseogee,  as  well  as  in  approaching  and 
leaving  it,  with  the  fish  iu  its  waters,  the  fowl  on  its  shores, 
he  deer  in  its   groves,  and  the  islands  on  its  bosoms; 
these  and  the  scenes  of  contentmem,  activity,  and  thrift  pre- 
sented along  the  Merrimack  I  must  pass  over  m  silence, 
is  time  wf  were  at  the  great  centre  of  aU  this  eastern 
country:  so,  without  waiting  to  learn  how  the  luxuries  of 
the  soil  find  their  way  to  the  capital,  or  how  its  many  fashions 
and  other  influences  are  sent  back  in  return,-let  us  hasten 
to  Boston. 


160 


CHAPTER  XXI. 

Boiton—Environi— Literary  Institutions— Mount  Auburn— Remarki 
on  our  Intellectual  Machinery. 

Boston  is  situated  on  ground  favourable  to  the  display  of 
the  city  from  almost  every  point  in  the  vicini»y.     The  sur- 
face rises  towards  the  centre,  at  Beacon  Hill,  where  the 
dome  of  the  State  House  presents  a  conspicuous  object. 
The  acclivity  at  the   same    time    exposes    to    view  not 
a  few  of  the  larger  edifices  in  different  streets.     The  irre- 
gularity of  surface,  however,  has  its  disadvantages;  and 
some  of  the  streets  are  inconvenient  and  even  dangerous  in 
slippery  seasons.   The  heart  of  the  city  defies  the  straighten- 
ing hand  of  improvement ;  but  the  quays  and  the  adjacent 
streets  are  of  a  size  and  regularity  which  our  larger  capitals 
might  envy.     The  wharves,  while  they  attest  the  natural 
defect  of  the  harbour,  bear  honourable  evidence  to  the  taste 
and  enterprise  of  the  merchants;  and  the  market  is  the 
most  splendid  in  the   country.     The  fine  white  granite, 
which  is  used  so  much  for  columns  in  New- York,  here 
forms  the  material  of  entire  and  elegant  blocks ;  and,  what 
is  of  personal  interest  to  travellers,  Tremont  House  is  un- 
equalled as  a  spacious  and  genteel  hotel  in  the  whole  Union. 
The  harbour  makes  a  fine  appearance  from  every  emi- 
nence ;  and  the  surrounding  country,  diversified  with  bold 
and  swelling  hills,  populous  villages,  and  elegant  country- 
seats,  offers  attractions  superior  to  the  environs  of  any  of 
our  other  cities.   Indeed,  no  pleasanter  or  more  varied  tour 
of  ten  or  fifteen  miles  could  be  easily  desired  than  that 
which  may  be  made,  by  hard  and  level  roads,  round  the 
circuit  of  Charies  River.     On  the  eminences,  Washington 
formed  the  line  of  troops  with  which  he  besieged  Boston  in 
1776.    That  end  of  the  horseshoe  which  overlooks  the  city 


MOUNT  AUBURN. 


161 


a  XXI. 

[ions— Mount  Auburn — Remarki 
kl  Machinery. 

I  favourable  to  the  display  of 
tit  in  the  vicini»y.     The  sur- 

at  Beacon  Hill,  where  the 
esents  a  conspicuous  object, 
me  exposes  to  view  not 
different  streets.  The  irre- 
has  its  disadvantages;  and 
snient  and  even  dangerous  in 
the  city  defies  the  straighten- 
t  the  quays  and  the  adjacent 
irity  which  our  larger  capitals 
irhile  they  attest  the  natural 
lourable  evidence  to  the  taste 
nts;  and  the  market  is  the 
jr.  The  fine  white  granite, 
columns  in  New- York,  here 
id  elegant  blocks ;  and,  what 
ellers,  Tremont  House  is  un- 
teel  hotel  in  the  whole  Union. 

appearance  from  every  emi- 
jountry,  diversified  with  bold 
lUages,  and  elegant  country- 
or  to  the  environs  of  any  of 
leasanter  or  more  varied  tour 

be  easily  desired  than  that 

and  level  roads,  round  the 
I  the  eminences,  Washington 
which  he  besieged  Boston  in 
jhoe  which  overlooks  the  citj 


from  the  north  is  surmounted  by  the  monument  of  Bunker 
Hill;  while  on  that  which  commands  the  harbour  from 
the  south-east,  viz.  Dorchester  Heights,  is  seen  the  wall  of 
a  circular  fort.  Hereabouts  were  some  of  the  earliest  settle- 
ments in  New-England. 

In  literary  institutions  Boston  holds  an  elevated  rank. 
Without  speaking  of  the  Massachusetts  Historical  Society, 
the  Athenaeum,  &c.  &c..  Harvard  College,  which  may  be 
regarded  almost  as  in  the  city  itself,  is  the  best  endowed, 
though  not  now  the  most  flourishing,  institution  in  the  Union. 
Why  will  not  our  wealthy  countrymen  in  other  States  take 
fire  at  the  noble  example  which  has  been  set  them  by  the 
Bostonians,  in  fostering  learning  ?     The  public-schools  are 
probably  superior  on  the  whole  to  those  of  New- York ;  and 
if  so,  of  course  to  all  others  in  the  country.     Writing,  how- 
ever, is  not  taught  as  easily  or  as  well  as  in  New- York ; 
slates  not  being  used  for  that  purpose.    The  girls'  and  boys' 
schools,  also,  are  separated,  which  must  be  attended  with 
some  inconveniences.    The  primary  schools  are  vastly  in- 
ferior, being  under  a  distinct  supervision,  and  controlled  by 
a  numerous  and  unmanageable  body  of  men,  most  of  whom 
can  hardly  be  expected  to  keep  pace  with  the  improvements 
in  that  important  department  of  public  instruction.     Here, 
therefore,  you  find  the  old-fashioned  Ma'am  schools — with 
the  poor  little  children  seated  all  over  the  room,  without 
apparatus,  exercises,  singing,  or  any  other  humane  and  in- 
telligent device  to  render  instruction  or  school-going  tolera- 
ble.    In  Boston,  however,  is  enjoyed  the  great  advantage 
of  a  comparatively  homogeneous  population,  and  a  strong 
prejudice  in  favour  of  education.    What  would  the  trustees  of 
the  New- York  PuWic-schools  think  would  befall  their  books, 
if  they  should  permit  the  children  to  take  them  home,  as 
they  do  in  Boston  ?     Of  the  grammar-schools  I  have  not 
leisure  to  speak  in  befitting  terms  of  praise ;  nor  have  I 
room  to  give  vent  to  tlie  regret  I  felt  at  some  of  the  evi- 
dences I  met  of  the  perverted  influence  of  fashion  in  some  of 
the  female  schools. 

Mount  Auburn  has  had  the  misfortune  to  be  over-praised 
in  print ;  and  the  consequence  is,  I  believe,  that  every  visiter 


162 


B08T0K. 


to  it  is  disappointed.    The  spot  is  very  pleasant ;  nature  has 
Riven  it  seclusion,  with  pretty  sights  of  green  hills  and 
woods,  which  acquired  for  it  the  name  of  Goldsmith  a  village 
years  ago.     And  nearly  in  the  state  of  nature  it  still  re- 
mains:  the  plan  for  its  improvement  having  been  as  yet 
completed  only  on  paper.    There  is  nothing  to  impress  the 
mind  as  you  approach  it  with  feelings  appropriate  to  an  ex- 
tensive cemetery.     Walks  and  avenues  have  been  planned, 
and  little  signs' inform  you  that  here  among  the  bushes 
is  Cypress  avenue  or  Cedar-walk ;  but  in  many  places  you 
have  nothing  else  to  lead  you  to  suspect  where  you  are. 
The  visiters  who   go  there  for  a  ride,  and   leave   their 
carriages  or  horses  on  the  borders  of  the  grounds,  often  in- 
terrupt the  reflections  which  a  sober  mind  would  wish  to 
indulge  in  on  such  a  spot.    The  plan  is  far  superior  to  that 
of  the  New-Haven  burying-ground,  where,  as  *  "ave  re- 
marked, there  is  a  want  of  variety  in  surface  and  shrubbery, 
and  little  seclusion  from  observation. 

The  example  set  by  Boston,  in  forming  such  a  cemetery, 
it  is  to  be  hoped  may  be  imitated  by  many  villages  as  well 
as  cities.     It  is  in  several  respects  an  improvement  on  the 
ancient  New-England  plan,  though  much  more  accommo- 
dated  to  it  than  to  that  of  some  other  parts  of  the  country 
and  large  towns  in  general.     In  cUies,  public  and  private 
tombs  are  used,  and  small  and  crowded  burymg-grounds, 
often  at  an  expense  which  would  procure   interment   at 
a  distance    in    some    retired    scene;    but   m  the   latter 
there  is  often  less  security,  except  strict  precautions  be 
taken.    Cemeteries  should  be  planned  with  reference  to  the 
living  as  well  as  the  dead;  and  should  at  once  be  conve- 
nient  and  pleasant  to  visiters,  guarded  from  injury  and  every 
thing  like  disrespect.   They  ought  not,  I  think,  to  be  placed 
in  the  centre  of  a  village,  as  they  generally  are,  nor  yet  too 
far  remote  from  the  habitations  of  men.    If  they  are  con- 
stantly before  the  eye,  they  are  regarded  with  too  much  m- 
diflerence,  and  the  ground  is  often  made  a  thoroughfare  and 
even  a  place  of  sport  by  children.    In  some  mstances  new 
and  more  retired  situations  have  been  chosen ;  for  there  is 
no  objection  to  separating  the  burying-ground  from  the 


church, 
how  fe\ 
■pot,  in 
Newi 
fashion( 
places  c 
and  ask 
men  di 
listen  t( 
I  wouK 
So  far  a 
to  their 
the  evil 
not  pro 
secure 


papers 

crimins 

import! 

been  t; 

much  1 

But 

and  th 

tion. 

has  an 

any  ci 

posses 

count) 

week 

two  ai 

a  vast 

religio 

tions, 

tract, 

Bui 

nation 

vidua) 

The  I 

over  1 

them 


OK. 

I  is  very  pleasant ;  nature  has 
ly  sights  of  green  hills  and 
6  name  of  Goldsmith's  village 
e  state  of  nature  it  still  re- 
ovement  having  been  as  yet 
lere  is  nothing  to  impress  the 
feelings  appropriate  to  an  ex- 
d  avenues  have  been  planned, 
;hat  here  among  the  bushes 
valk ;  but  in  many  places  you 
ou  to  suspect  where  you  are, 
for  a  ride,  and   leave   their 
rders  of  the  grounds,  often  in- 

a  sober  mind  would  wish  to 
'he  plan  is  far  superior  to  that 
rround,  where,  as  I  have  re- 
riety  in  surface  and  shrubbery, 
>rvation. 

n,  in  forming  such  a  cemetery, 
;ated  by  many  villages  as  well 
jspects  an  improvement  on  the 
though  much  more  accommo- 
me  other  parts  of  the  country 
In  chies,  public  and  private 
and  crowded  burying-grounds, 
would  procure   interment   at 
5(1    scene;    but   in  the   latter 
r,  except  strict  precautions  be 
le  planned  with  reference  to  the 
and  should  at  once  be  conve- 
1,  guarded  from  injury  and  every 
ought  not,  I  think,  to  be  placed 
they  generally  are,  nor  yet  too 
tions  of  men.    If  they  are  con- 
are  regarded  with  too  much  in- 
i  often  made  a  thoroughfare  and 
ildren.    In  some  instances  new 
have  been  chosen ;  for  there  is 

the  burying'ground  from  the 


NEWBPAPERl. 


163 


church,  with  those  who  do  not  consecrate  ground:  but  in 
how  few  instances  is  taste  consulted  in  the  selection  of  a 
■pot,  in  laying  it  out,  or  planting  it  with  evergreens  ! — 

Newspapers  are  in  some  senses  great  pests.  The  old- 
fashioned  literati  complain  bitterly  that  they  occupy  the 
places  of  books  such  as  they  used  to  read  and  grow  wise  with, 
and  ask,  What  is  it  but  newspapers  which  makes  our  young 
men  different  from  what  they  used  to  be !  If  they  would 
listen  to  one  of  this  class,  so  far  from  perfection  as  I  allow, 
I  would  say,  it  is  owing  to  many  other  causes  besides  this. 
So  far  as  newspapers  have  an  evil  influence,  it  is  attributable 
to  their  quality,  not  to  the  fact  that  they  are  newspapers ;  and 
the  evil  of  the  bad  is  partly  owing  to  our  fathers'  neglect  in 
not  providing  good  editors,  nor  taking  timely  precautions  to 
secure  a  good  public  taste.  The  neglect  under  which  news- 
papers 80  long  sufllered  now  appears  to  have  been  almost 
criminal :  it  was  at  least  short-sighted :  for  if  tlieir  present 
importance  had  been  foreseen,  and  if  proper  mearfures  had 
been  taken,  they  would  have  been  better,  and  sources  of 
much  more  good  and  far  less  evil  than  now. 

But  as  for  getting  along  without  them,  under  the  present 
and  the  probable  future  state  of  things,  it  is  out  of  the  ques- 
tion. Every  man,  at  least  in  this  part  of  the  country,  who 
has  any  regard  for  his  character  for  common  intelligence,  or 
any  curiosity  or  taste,  or  who  has  a  wife,  son,  or  daughter 
possessing  these  qualities,  must  have  the  affairs  of  the 
county,  State,  Union,  and  oniverse  laid  before  him  every 
week  at  least.  And  this  is  done  for  from  one  and  a  half  to 
two  and  a  half  dollars  a  year.  Multitudes  obtain  with  this 
a  vast  amount  of  matter  relating  to  doctrinal  and  practical 
religion,  the  movements  of  the  clergy  of  their  denomina- 
tions, the  growth  of  churches,  the  operations  of  their  Bible, 
tract,  missionary,  and  temperance  societies,  &c.  &c. 

But  to  go  further  into  particulars— the  public  affairs  of  all 
nations,  the  effecte  of  the  enterprises  of  distinguished  indi- 
viduals, the  opinions  of  new  books  in  both  hemispheres. 
The  people  of  this  country  exercise  an  habitual  censorship 
over  their  fellow-men — many  of  them  daily,  multitudes  of 
them  weekly,  as  they  seat  themselves  to  peruse  their  news- 


164 


BOSTON. 


papers ;  and  feel  at  the  same  time  a  degree  of  self-respect, 
as  well  as  regard  for  good  or  wise  men,  however  distant, 
who  seem  in  some  sense  to  be  labouring  in  their  various 
spheres  partly  for  their  gratification  or  improvement.  W  hen 
Humboldt  was  scouring  plains  and  ascending  mountains, 
in  many  an  humble  habitation  was  his  progress  watched; 
and  tow-wicked  candles,  lighted  as  the  farmers  families 
assemble  at  evening,  will  show  the  columiis  which  shall 
speak  of  Don  Miguel's  fall,  and  Captain  Hall's  adventures 
in  his  pursuit  of  Parry. 

It  is  a  great  consolation  when  we  see  the  paltry  and  often 
the  vicious  stuff  with  which  many  of  our  public  papers 
abound,  that  after  all  so  small  a  portion  of  the  community 
read  it.  What  is  professedly  political  has  charms  for  but 
few,  if  we  except  such  things  as  are  personal  in  their 
bearing  on  individuals  known  to  the  readers.  Marriages 
and  deaths  induce  hundreds  to  take  them  up,  where  tens  are 
attracted  by  what  is  called  the  original  arUcles,  most  of 
which  have  as  much  originality  as  an  echo.  The  most 
▼irulent,  tasteless,  and  sottish  papers  are  generally  those 
which  are  supported  by  some  party,  and  these  are  often 
taken  for  appearances,  and  not  to  read. 

The  learned  must  consent  to  share  in  the  burthen  of  the 
charge  of  the  public  ignorance  and  want  of  taste.     They 
who  are  familiar  with  the  state  of  things  in  Greece  and 
Rome,  and  all  other  countries  on  the  face  of  the  earth,  ought 
to  have  had  skill  to  foresee  that  our  circumstances,  so  differ- 
ent from  those  of  any  nation  before  us,  must  require  a  dif- 
ferent  treatment  to  produce  any  desirable  effect.    They  are 
a  venerable  set  of  men,  I  allow— highly  respectable;  some  of 
them  know  law,  some  physic,  some  history,  Hebrew,  Latin, 
Greek,  and  what  not.     There  are  those  who  have  waded 
deep  into  the  most  important  branches  of  knowledge  (I  use 
branches  in  the  southern  sense),  and  are  actuaUy  f,wimming 
in  a  surfeit  of  science,  who,  I  fear,  have  not  siifficiently 
thought  how  they  may  convey  a  few  drops  to  their  thirsty 
fellow-citizens.    Is  not  the  idea  still  too  prevalent,  that  there 
is  no  way  to  learning  except  the  royal  road  ?    Is  there  not  a 
tiresome  long  toll-bridge  across  that  stream  which  separates 


N4IIANT. 


106 


ne  a  degree  of  self-respect, 
wise  men,  however  distant, 
I  labouring  in  their  various 
ion  or  improvement.  When 
and  ascending  mountains, 
was  his  progress  watched ; 
id  as  the  farmers'  families 
V  the  columns  which  shall 
1  Captain  Hall's  adventures 

1  we  see  the  paltry  ind  often 
iiany  of  our  public  papers 
1  portion  of  the  community 
political  has  charms  for  but 
;s  as  are  personal  in  their 
to  the  readers.  Marriages 
take  them  up,  where  tens  are 
le  original  articles,  most  of 
ity  as  an  echo.  The  most 
papers  are  generally  those 
party,  and  theie  are  often 
I  to  read. 

[>  share  in  the  burthen  of  the 
e  and  want  of  taste.     They 
ite  of  things  in  Greece  and 
in  the  face  of  the  earth,  ought 
t  our  circumstances,  so  differ- 
before  us,  must  require  a  dif- 
y  desirable  effect.    They  are 
—highly respectable;  some  of 
some  history,  Hebrew,  Latin, 
I  are  those  who  have  waded 
branches  of  knowledge  (I  use 
i),  and  are  actually  twimming 
I  fear,  have  not  sjifficiently 
r  a  few  drops  to  their  thirsty 
!a  still  too  prevalent,  that  there 
\ie  royal  road  ?    Is  there  not  a 
IS  that  stream  which  separates 


tke  land  of  ignorance  from  the  domain  of  knowledge,  oter 
which  all  are  required  to  pass,  while  none  are  permitted  to 
use  the  humble  stepping-stones  or  to  attempt  the  ford  be- 
low t  Cannot  some  means  be  devised  by  which  some  of 
the  important  principles,  now  wrapped  in  volumes  and  con- 
cealed in  foreign  words,  may  be  put  into  the  possession  of 
those  who  most  need  them  for  frequent  and  practical  use ! 
Have  the  Medes  and  Persians  any  law  requiring  every  indi- 
vidual who  would  know  how  many  bones  there  are  in  his 
foot,  or  what  fiddle-string  it  is  that  vibrates  when  he  knocks 
his  elbow,  to  go  through  a  regular  course  of  study  at  a  medi- 
cal college?  If  they  have,  by  the  way,  it  is  violated,  and 
will  be  set  at  nought,  I  trust,  still  more,  by  the  Penny  Maga- 
zine, Penny  Gazette,  et  omm  id  genus  of  publications  which 
have  begun  to  appear,  I  had  almost  said,  since  I  began  to  pen 
this  page.  In  these  things  the  English  have  set  us  a  good 
example;  which,  as  we  are  such  "legitimates"  m  literary 
matters  as  to  admit  no  improvements  except  through  the 
royal  road,  there  is  now  hope  we  shall  benefit  by  it. 


CHAPTER  XXTI. 

Nshant— Plymouth— Principles  of  the  PilgrimB— Their  Inititutions— 
Exnuse  for  not  knowing  more — Lyceums. 

Nah&nt  is  the  first  great  fashionable  retreat  our  coast 
presents,  beginning  to  follow  its  devious  line  from  the  eastern 
part  of  the  country.  There  many  a  citizen,  many  a  young 
person  educated  in  our  fashionable  schools,  is  for  the  first 
time  introduced  to  the  ocean,  and  taught,  by  a  glance,  how 
great  are  objects  he  knows  not,  how  small  many  of  the  ac- 
quisitions the  giddy  world  admires.  I  do  firmly  believe  that 
a  misguided  parent,  who  has  had  the  folly  to  bring  up  his 
child  in  the  way  he  should  not  go ;  who  has  taught  his  son 
or  his  daughter  to  admire  the  false  glitter  of  wealth,  and  to 

IS 


ICO 


NAB  ART. 


neslect  the  search  after  intellectual  and  moral  cnjoymenta, 
—many  such  a  parent,  by  bringing  hia  child  hen,  has  ex- 
posed him  to  a  scene  that  can  counteract  at  once  the  very 
nrinciples  of  his  education,  implant  new  ideas,  lead  him  to 
think  his  parent  superficial,  and  drive  him  to  other  sources 
of  instruction.  There  is  an  appeal,  a  warning,  a  monitory 
voice  in  the  sea,  when  its  waves  are  dashed  agamst  the 
rocks,  which  affects  the  old  and  even  the  accustomed  mmd 
with  awe ;  but  to  the  young,  the  inexperienced,  it  addresses 
itself  with  a  tone  which  enforces  attention,  and  makes  an 
impression  no  human  power,  perhaps,  can  ever  entirely 

AflRCfi 

••Unfall'n,  religious, holy  sea!"  I 

A  scene  like  this  is  best  calculated  for  the  retreat  of  one 
who  has  forsaken  the  paths  of  righteousness,  and  wishes  to 
retrace  his  steps.     Vice  never  chooses  a  place  where  such 
reproaches  are  sounded  in  her  ears.     It  is  also  one  of  the 
most  favourable  situations  for  implanting  salutary  and  last- 
ing impressions  in  the  young.     Scenes  like  this  are,  per- 
haps, liable  to  as  few  objections,  even  when  strictly  regarded, 
as  any  can  be,  for  the  establishment  of  houses  of  general 
resort:  for  as  the  objects  of  nature  offer  a  good  deal  of  at- 
traction,  even  to  the  less  estimable  class  of  visiters,  they 
substitute  reflections  harmless,  if  not  useful,  for  many  of  the 
unbecoming  games  and  occupations  in  which  hours  are 
usually  occupied  in  public  places.     The  man  of  business  is 
not  attracted  to  the  billiard-table  to  fill  up  a  blank  left  by 
his  abstraction  from  his  desk ;  but  he  seats  himself  on  some 
of  the  resting-places  arranged  on  the  most  advantageous 
points  of  view,  and  gazes  in  admiration  on  a  horizon  more 
extended,  on  objects  more  elevating  than  he  finds  elsewhere. 
He  indulges  in  reflections  ennobling  to  a  mind  borne  down 
with  daily  cares,  while  he  is  refreshed  by  a  pure  and  kindly 
breeze,  that  comes  with  health  and  rational  hilarity  ou  its 
wings,  to  repair  the  wastes  that  necessary  labour  has  made 
upon  his  frame. 

Of  the  sea  serpent  I  have  nothing  to  say. 
Plymouth  I  visited  with  becoming  reverence,  on  account 
U  the  memory  of  our  forefathers.    What  »  dreary  scene 


must  t 

this  Bf 

poor, 

shore, 

<!Ould 

Unitei 

of  sar 

tion  e 

nature 

sand, 

the  bF 

first  e 

dition 

They 

case 

round 

in  hia 

Plain 

for  tl 

accu! 

II 

grav( 

first 

seem 

medi 

treat 

they 

the\ 

hour 

from 

tabli 

sho> 

wise 

theii 

tot! 

Il 

lish 

or  t 

Teli 


T. 

jtual  and  moral  cnjoymenta, 
^ing  his  child  hert,  has  ex- 
counteract  at  once  the  very 
ilant  new  ideas,  lead  him  to 
1  drive  him  to  other  sources 
ipeal,  a  warning,  a  monitory 
ves  are  dashed  against  the 
d  even  the  accustomed  mind 
B  inexperienced,  it  addresses 
3es  attention,  and  makes  an 
perhaps,  can  ever  entirely 

culated  for  the  retreat  of  one 
righteousness,  and  wishes  to 
chooses  a  place  where  such 
ears.     It  is  also  one  of  the 
implanting  salutary  and  last- 
.     Scenes  like  this  are,  per- 
1,  even  when  strictly  regarded, 
shment  of  houses  of  general 
ature  offer  a  good  deal  of  at- 
imable  class  of  visiters,  they 
,  if  not  useful,  for  many  of  the 
ipations  in  which  hours  are 
lea.     The  man  of  business  is 
ble  to  fill  up  a  blank  left  by 
but  he  seats  himself  on  some 
d  on  the  most  advantageous 
admiration  on  a  horizon  more 
ating  than  he  finds  elsewhere, 
lobling  to  a  mind  borne  down 
•efreshed  by  a  pure  and  kindly 
ih  and  rational  hilarity  on  its 
lat  necessary  labour  has  made 

nothing  to  say. 

ecoming  reverence,  on  account 

kthers.    What  a  dreary  scene 


TBI  'i'lLORIMfl. 


187 


must  the  coast  have  presented  to  them  when  they  landed  on 
this  spot  in  December,  IB'iO !     The  soil  is  sandy,  thin,  and 
poor,  and  a  range  of  low  hills  gives  an  uniformity  to  the 
shore,  to  which  nothing  but  some  important  historical  event 
<rould  have  give  n  interest.     Along  the  Atlantic  coast  of  the 
United  States,  from  hereabouts  down  to  Florida,  vast  tracts 
of  sands  are  found,  the  marks  of  some  tremendous  opera- 
tion explicable  only  by  reference  to  Noah's  flood.     Of  this 
nature  is  the  coumry  here.    The  undulating  surface  of  light 
sand,  intermingled  with  loose  primitive  rocks,  stretches  along 
the  bay,  while  it  also  forms  Cape  Cod,  on  which  the  Pilgrims 
first  effected  a  landing  ;    and  Carver's  Kock,  on  which  tra- 
dition  says  they  first  stepped  from  tlieir  boat,  is  of  granite. 
They  saw  none  of  the  natives  at  first,  because  a  fatal  dis- 
ease had  destroyed  all  the  inhabitants  for  some  distance 
round  several  years  before.     Old  William  Wood  mentions, 
in  his  New-England's  Prospect,  printed  in  1634,  that  Ragged 
Plain,  a  little  in  the  interior,  had  become  covered  with  bushes 
for  the  want  of  Indians  to  burn  it  over,  as  they  had  been 
accustomed  to  do,  for  game. 

I  took  my  stand  on  the  top  of  Burying  Hill,  near  the 
crave  of  Carver,  those  of  several  of  his  associates  m  the 
first  settlement  of  New-England,  and  of  many  of  their  de- 
scendants. On  this  spot  they  entrenched  themselves  im- 
mediately; at  its  base,  on  the  south  side,  they  formed  their 
treaty  with  Massasoit ;  between  it  and  the  shore  on  the  east 
they  erected  their  first  dwellings  along  the  present  street  of 
the  village ;  between  the  lofty  bluffs  on  tlie  sides  of  the  har- 
bour they  used  to  watch  for  the  expected  arrival  of  ships 
from  England ;  northwardly  they  soon  saw  new  colonies  es- 
tablished; and  westward— what  talents  would  be  required  to 
show  the  whole  influence  of  their  early  labours  and  pure  and 
wise  institutions !  Where  we  can  trace  the  operations  of 
their  principles  among  our  countrymen,  we  find  that  we  owe 
to  them  almost  every  thing  we  are  and  have  and  hope  for. 

It  was  a  simple  question  with  them,  after  they  had  estab- 
lished themselves  here,  whether  they  should  take  this  course 
or  that— shall  we  observe  the  strict  rules  of  morality  and 
Tcligion,  and  instruct  our  children  in  useful  knovfledge,  or 


168 


FLTMOrTH. 


not!  They  did  not  dispose  of  the  question  as  the  repre- 
sentatives of  Pennsylvania  did  a  few  months  since,  when 
the  bill  for  common  schools  in  the  state  was  before  them. 
They  did  not  decide  that  they  were  too  poor  to  do  it  con- 
veniently, and  therefore  must  postpone  it.  The  Pilgrims 
were  simple  enough  to  believe  that  "  learnuig  is  better  than 
house  and  land,"  and  therefore  provided  for  the  establish- 
ment  of  a  school  m  every  town  of  fifty  famUies,  and  a  gram- 
mar-school in  every  one  of  100  families.  Let  those  who 
thmk  them  the  poorer,  cast  up  the  figures  by  which  it  may 
be  shown,  and  then  follow  the  emigrants  from  New-England 
wherever  they  have  gone,  and  see  how  they  compare  with 
those  who  represent  different  doctrines  on  the  intellect. 

It  is  true  that  the  Pilgrims  enjoyed  great  advantages  for 
laying  the  foundations  of  their  society  along  with  general 
education.    They  came  well  provided  with  knowledge,  and 
had  little  expense  to  incur  at  the  outset.     Family  instruc- 
tion was  a  powerful  aid  to  schools ;  and  it  is  the  want  of 
this  which  renders  necessary  the  array  of  means  now  re- 
quired to  make  up  for  deficiencies  where  it  has  been  neg- 
lected.   Knowledge  may  be  transmitted  from  generation  to 
generation,  in  the  same  manner  and  almost  as  cheaply  as 
ignorance ;  but  what  a  difference  is  the  consequence !   Sup- 
pose that  the  pilgrims  had  chosen  to  neglect  the  means  ne- 
cessary to  secure  general  instruction.     Imagine  the  conse- 
quences.    This  country,  instead  of  sending  out  so  much  of 
its  population  to  all  seas  and  regions,  because  they  had 
superior  intelligence,  and  can  pursue  the  beasts  of  the 
forests,  the  birds  of  the  air,  and  the  fish  of  the  sea,  as  well 
as  commerce  and  various  other  kinds  of  busmess,  with 
greater  success  than  other  men,  would  probably  have  been 
visited  by  those  of  other  nations  for  the  same  purpose,  and 
ere  this  have  been  a  much  more  mixed  people.     The  great 
streams  of  teachers,  of  all  classes,  which  are  now  poured 
out  annually  to  other  states  of  the  Union,  would  never  have 
begun  to  flow— sad  evidence  of  the  literary  drought  which 
would  have  parched  the  soil,  now  so  fertile  in  men  of  edu- 
cation.    If  the  arts  and  sciences,  public  virtue  and  intelli- 
gence had  ever  risen  high  enough  to  send  out  emigrants  to 


the  "Wei 
mass  w 
which, 
they  iii( 
Had  th( 
in  resp 
have  hi 
Thei 
which  ] 
the  tai 
pleasui 
preten( 
ties  po 
the  Un 
things 
had  m 
gentry 
or  slee 
at  leas 
can  n( 
everyl 
fact;" 
plain, 
true- 
No 
What 
thing! 
that  t 
have, 
ah!  ' 
terris 
not  s 
there 
was 
gave 
out  1 
three 
takir 
out  < 


rOREWN  TOITRISTS. 


169 


m. 

the  question  as  the  repre- 
a  few  months  since,  when 
the  state  was  before  them, 
were  too  poor  to  do  it  con- 
postpone  it.     The  Pilgrims 
hat  "  learning  is  better  than 
provided  for  the  establish- 
of  fifty  families,  and  a  gram- 
tO  families.     Let  those  who 
the  figures  by  which  it  may 
migrants  from  New-England 
see  how  they  compare  with 
octrines  on  the  intellect, 
snjoyed  great  advantages  for 
r  society  along  with  general 
rovided  with  knowledge,  and 
the  outset.     Family  instruc- 
lools ;  and  it  is  the  want  of 
the  array  of  means  now  re- 
lies where  it  has  been  neg- 
ansmitted  from  generation  to 
ler  and  almost  as  cheaply  as 
ice  is  the  consequence !   Sup- 
isen  to  neglect  the  means  ne- 
ruction.     Imagine  the  conse- 
ad  of  sending  out  so  much  of 
1  regions,  because  they  had 
n  pursue  the  beasts  of  the 
id  the  fish  of  the  sea,  as  well 
ther  kinds  of  business,  with 
5n,  would  probably  have  been 
»ns  for  the  same  purpose,  and 
ire  mixed  people.    The  great 
asses,  which  are  now  poured 
1  the  Union,  would  never  have 
of  the  literary  drought  which 
now  so  fertile  in  men  of  edu- 
nces,  public  virtue  and  intelli- 
>ugh  to  send  out  smigrants  to 


the  West,  they  would  have  flowed  in  one  undistmguished 
mass  with  those  tides  of  emigration  from  other  quarters, 
which,  however  strongly  contrasted  with  them  now  when 
thev  meet,  are  soon  and  materially  purified  by  the  mixture. 
Had  the  Pilgrims  acted  like  most  other  planters  of  colonies, 
in  respect  to  public  education  merely.  Bunker  HiU  would 
have  had  no  name,  and  the  United  States  no  being. 

There  are  many  things  to  be  seen  in  Boston,  some  ol 
which  I  know  but  little  about,  and  too  many  more  1  had  not 
the  taste,  or  knowledge,  or  sagacity  to  observe  or  take 
pleasure  in.     I  am  no  English  tourist,  and  therefore  cannot 
pretend  to  know  every  thing.    If  I  had  the  wonderful  facdi- 
Ties  possessed  by  some  of  those  men  and  women  who  survey 
the  United  States  through  their  blue  glasses,  and  then  write 
things  of  which  none  of  us  natives  ever  heard,  I  might  have 
had  more  to  say.    How  pleasant  must  travelling  be  to  such 
ffentrv !     A  person  with  their  talents  might  sit  m  his  hotel, 
or  sleep  in  the  steamboat,  and  make  books,  whose  ongmality 
at  least  would  never  be  doubted :  whereas  such  people  as  I 
can  never  say  a  thing  of  any  place  or  object,  w"hout  havmg 
everybody  who  is  acquainted  with  «/^«!^>™' ''^fats  a 
fact;"  and  can  never  indulge  in  a  reflection,  but  he  first 
plain,  merely  sensible  person  who  reads  it  wiU  say,    That » 
true— very  good— he  thinks  as  I  do." 

Now  this  is  no  way  to  make  a  book,  that's  very  certain 
What  gratification  can  it  be  to  anybody  to  be  told  that 
things  around  him  are  what  they  know  them  to  be;  and 
that  they  and  their  neighbours  have  done  exactly  what  they 
have,  and  can  do  so  and  so,  and  no  more  nor  less?    But, 
ah!  when  shall  we  equal  the  English!    "Kara  avis  m 
terris"— now  and  then  we  find  one  of  these  rare  fowl- 
not  so  rare,  however,  now  as  they  once  were-some  thmk 
there  are  quite  enough  of  them.     One  of  them,  I  'ecollect, 
was  at  a  hotel  in  New-York  some  months  ago,  where  ho 
save  out  that  he  was  collecting  remarks,  and  every  day  tooK 
out  his  memorandum-book  and  pencil  at  table.    Two  or 
three  persons,  who  appre.uated  the  importance  of  hw  under- 
taking,  were  so  obliging  as  to  render  him  a^f^'a^^* !  *°J 
out  of  respect  to  his  future  readers,  never  aUowed  him  to 

16* 


170 


1IAS8ACHVSSTT8. 


take  any  thing  but  the  choicest  bits  from  that  great  newa- 
market;  and,  indeed,  generally  took  the  trouble  to  stall- 
feed  the  cattle  and  pigeons  before  they  brought  them  up. 
Under  their  hands  our  steamboats,  race-horses,  whale-boats, 
and  spinning-wheels  improved  more  in  speed  than  they  had 
done  in  years  before ;  and  the  march  of  mind  in  the  United 
States  was  equalled  only  by  the  progress  of  the  pumpkin- 
Tines  in  the  meadows.     Had  the  wonders  he  heard  been 
communicated  to  him  in  a  different  manner,  he  miglit  have 
questioned  the  statements ;  but  they  were  introduced  casu- 
ally in  common  conversation ;  not  narrated  to  him  as  prodi- 
gies, but  mingled  with  the  concerns  of  the  day,  and  heard 
by  others  without  surprise,  and  often  without  remark.   This 
intelligent  foreigner  faithfully  noted  every  thing,  and  must 
have  taken  a  vast  fund  of  available  merchandise  home  to 
England.    His  friends  grieved  the  less  at  his  departure, 
because  they  cherished  the  hope  of  seeing  him  ere  long  ia 
a  book.    As  yet,  however,  they  have  been  disappointed. 
Among  the  various  travels  in  the  United  States  since  pub- 
lished in  Great  Britain,  they  have  not  found  his  name ;  and 
although  several  of  them  have  borne  strong  marks  of  his 
character,  and  were  to  a  great  degree  composed  of  materials 
like  those  which  he  collected,  they  are  at  once  so  like  and 
unlike  the  valuable  mass  with  which  he  was  supplied,  that 
they  were  inclined  to  suspect  he  had  sold  his  notes  "  in  lots 
to  suit  purchasers." 

It  is  impossible  to  travel  far  in  this  state,  and,  indeed,  in 
some  of  the  other  states  also,  without  perceiving  signs  of 
the  recent  impulses  given  to  public  instruction.  In  some 
places  the  old  school-houses  have  been  replaced  with  conve- 
nient and  handsome  edifices ;  evidently  planned  with  some 
regard  to  their  importance,  the  public  convenience,  and  the 
principles  of  taste.  In  others  large  buildings  have  been 
erected  for  public  lectures,  libraries,  and  cabinets  of  natural 
history.  And  if  we  had  time  enough  to  inquire  into  the 
state  of  public  intelligence,  we  should  find  considerable  im- 
provements made  within  the  last  three  or  four  years.  The 
associations  for  literary  improvement,  which  have  multiphed 
ao  rapidly,  though  varying  in  size,  unportance,  and  plaOi 


are  knc 

of  good 

plied  tc 

acter,  n 

meanin 

lence,  1 

scale  0 

pected 

such  as 

or  the  ' 

So  n 

ties  for 

ence  to 

ciate  iti 

effort  1 

meetin( 

lage  ly 

probabl 

ble,  wii 

stances 

hear,  y 

where\ 

ties,  gi 

ments  < 

tion  of 

"That 

commi 

is  peril 

subseq 

takes 

disclos 

concer 

to  a  St 

travell 

other  i 

discusi 

would 

about 

opport 


!TTS< 

bits  from  that  great  newa- 
took  the  trouble  to  stall- 
fore  they  brought  them  up. 
s,  race-horsea,  whale-boats, 
[jore  in  speed  than  they  had 
narch  of  mind  in  the  United 
!  progress  of  the  pumpkin- 
ihe  wonders  he  heard  been 
■ent  manner,  he  might  have 
they  were  introduced  casu- 
ot  narrated  to  him  as  prodi- 
erns  of  the  day,  and  heard 
often  without  remark.   This 
loted  every  thing,  and  must 
lable  merchandise  home  to 
i  the  less  at  his  departure, 
pe  of  seeing  him  ere  long  in 
ey  ha^'e  been  disappointed, 
the  United  States  since  pub- 
ve  not  found  his  name ;  and 
borne  strong- marks  of  his 
legree  composed  of  materials 
ihey  are  at  once  so  like  and 
which  he  was  supplied,  that 
e  had  sold  his  notes  "  in  lots 

in  this  state,  and,  indeed,  in 
I,  without  perceiving  signs  of 
public  instruction.  In  some 
ive  been  replaced  with  conve- 
evidently  planned  with  some 

public  convenience,  and  the 
i  large  buildings  have  been 
aries,  and  cabinets  of  natural 
3  enough  to  inquire  into  the 
:  should  find  considerable  im- 
ist  three  or  four  years.  The 
ement,  which  have  multipUed 

size,  importance,  and  plan^ 


LYCEUMS. 


ITl 


are  known  by  the  general  name  of  lyceums,  which  is  a  word 
of  good,  sound,  and  classical  origin ;  and  although  often  ap- 
plied to  societies  of  a  different  and  generally  a  loftier  chay- 
acter,  may,  perhaps,  as  well  as  any  other,  be  used  in  this 
meaning.  The  career  of  knowledge,  like  that  of  benevo- 
lence, however  humble  the  agents  embarked  in  it  or  the 
scale  of  their  operation,  offers  innumerable  and  often  unex- 
pected gratifications.  I  have  attended  several  meetings  of 
such  associations,  and  cannot  easily  describe  all  the  ways 
or  the  whole  extent  in  which  I  received  gratification. 

So  many  meetings  have  been  held,  so  many  little  socie- 
ties formed,  and  so  many  measures  taken  with  direct  refer- 
ence to  the  diffusion  of  knowledge,  that  those  who  appre- 
ciate its  value  are  sure  of  receiving  support  in  any  judicious 
effort  they  may  make  in  its  favour.     Suppose  a  public 
meeting  is  called  in  the  village  of  Newtown,  to  form  a  vil- 
lage lyceum.     The  bell  is  rung  in  the  meeting-house,  and 
probably  the  minister,  the  teachers,  male  and  female,  assem- 
ble, with  many  or  few  of  the  people,  according  to  circum- 
stances.   The  ladies  sit  at  some  distance,  near  enough  to 
hear,  yet  far  enough  to  show  that  modesty  actuates  them 
wherever  they  go.     Some  person,  familiar  with  such  socie- 
ties, gives  a  statement  of  their  plan  and  effects,  and  com- 
ments on  the  advantages  offered  by  the  village  for  the  forma- 
tion of  a  similar  association.    It  is  unanimously  resolved, 
"  That  it  is  expedient  to  form  a  Newtown  Lyceum."    A 
committee  is  then  appointed  to  form  a  constitution,  which 
is  perhaps  presented  to  the  same  meeting,  or  if  not,  to  a 
subsequent  one.    On  the  articles,  probably,  some  discussion 
takes  place ;  and  I  can  answer  for  it  that  they  sometimes 
disclose  both  talent  and  eloquence,  and  always  some  facts 
concerning  the  state  of  society  which  may  prove  instructive 
to  a  stranger.    I  have  wished  that  some  of  the  well-meaning 
travellers  who  have  told  such  ridiculous  tales  of  us  on  the 
other  side  of  the  Atlantic  could  have  listened  to  a  few  such 
discussions,  even  in  our  most  obscure  villages ;  for  they 
would  have  heard  our  plain  country-people  talking  togethei 
about  themselves,  and  that  affords  one  of  the  best  possible 
opportunities  for  learning  their  condition  and  character. 


17« 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


"  I  had  no  notice,  gentlemen,"  remarked  a  middle-aged 
man  from  another  town,  "  that  I  was  to  address  this  meet- 
ing.    I  was  passing  through  Newtown,  and  attracted  here 
only  by  learning  at  the  tavern  that  a  lyceum  was  to  be 
formed.    I  will  mention  briefly  that  the  lyceum  of  Oldtown, 
of  which  I  had  the  honour  to  be  secretary,  has  been  very  use- 
ful, a»  it  is  generally  believed,  in  affording  harmless  amuse- 
ment as  well  as  useful  inslrnction  to  different  classes,  par- 
ticularly the  young.     The  funds  are  derived  from  the  sub- 
scriptions  of  members,  at  half  a  dollar  each,  and  a  quarter 
of  a  dollar  for  minors,  who  however  are  not  entitled  to  a 
vote.     The  officers  are  a  president,  vice-president,  record- 
ing and  corresponding  secretary,  treasurer,  and  librarian, 
who,  with  five  others  called  curators,  form  the  board  of 
directors,  three  of  whom  make  a  quorum  for  orduiary  busi- 
ness.    We  have  collected  a  library,  by  loan  and  gift,  of 
books  which  could  be  spared  by  the  members  of  the  society ; 
and  thus  each  volume  being  made  accessible  to  all,  is  as  it 
were  multiplied  by  two  hundred,  which  is  about  the  number 
of  our  members.     One  or  two  lectures  on  different  subjects 
are  delivered  every  week  in  the  winter  when  the  weather 
permits,  by  volunteers — professional  gentlemen  and  farmers; 
and  occasionally  we  are  favoured  with  some  friend  from  a 
neighbouring  lyceum,  with  an  essay  which  has  been  well 
received  there.     We  send  a  delegate  every  quarter  to  the 
county  lyceum  (where  your  delegates,  I  hope,  will  hereafter 
attend),  and  hear  interesting  reports  from  him  of  their  pro- 
ceedings on  his  return.     Our  schools  have  been  much  im- 
proved°  as  the  teachers  are  interested  in  introducing  every  im- 
provement in  discipline  and  instruction  which  they  can  ob- 
tain ;  and  I  must  do  most  teachers  the  justice  to  say  that  they 
are  true  friends  of  knowledge  and  republican  institutions. 
And  while  I  am  on  this  point,  allow  me  to  remark,  gentle- 
men, that  we  have  it  in  our  powe  •,  though  but  humble  indi- 
viduals, by  pursuing  a  proper  course  of  operations  in  the 
society  which  exists  around  us,  to  effect  what  the  govern- 
ments of  some  countries  of  Europe  are  endeavouring  to  do, 
but  cannot  fully  accomplish,  with  all  the  means  in  their  pos- 
session. We  can  raise  the  standard  of  our  common  schooU 


to  the  ] 

vidual. 

general 

can  be 

any  oth 

past  ye 

tion;  a 

zme,  p 

that  it 

educati 

of  the  I 

the  pri 

render! 

the  im 

now  b< 

done  b 

emulat 

"M 

awake 

systen 

raise 

spcct, 

of  thei 

exhibi 

of  a  1 

the  mi 

the  c( 

librar 

Weii 

alone 

been 

ought 

spect( 

also  t 

aid  ¥ 

foreig 

jects 

fusioi 

inhai 


lETTS. 


1YCEVM8. 


173 


1,"  remarked  a  middle-aged 
I  was  to  address  this  mect- 
^ewtown,  and  attracted  here 
that  a  lyceum  was  to  be 
that  the  lyceum  of  Oldtown, 
secretary,  has  been  very  use- 
n  affording  harmless  amuse- 
on  to  different  classes,  par- 
is  are  derived  from  the  sub- 
"  a  dollar  each,  and  a  quarter 
iwever  are  not  entitled  to  a 
ident,  vice-president,  record- 
iry,  treasurer,  and  librarian, 
curators,  form  the  board  of 
I  a  quorum  for  ordhiary  busi- 
library,  by  loan  and  gift,  of 
Y  the  members  of  the  society ; 
ade  accessible  to  all,  is  as  it 
d,  which  is  about  the  number 
lectures  on  different  subjects 
the  winter  when  the  weather 
sional  gentlemen  and  farmers; 
ared  with  some  friend  from  a 
I  essay  which  has  been  well 
delegate  every  quarter  to  the 
!legates,  I  hope,  will  hereafter 
eports  from  him  of  their  pro- 
schools  have  been  much  im- 
rested  in  introducing  every  im- 
nstruction  which  they  can  ob- 
lers  the  justice  to  say  that  they 
'e  and  republican  institutions. 
i,  allow  me  to  remark,  gentle- 
owe.-,  though  but  humble  indi- 
r  course  of  operations  in  the 
IS,  to  effect  what  the  govem- 
lurope  are  endeavouring  to  do, 
rith  all  the  means  in  their  pos- 
andard  of  our  common  schooU 


to  the  highest  grade,  and  carry  their  benefits  to  every  indi- 
vidual, A  monarch  can  do  little  for  this  object  without  the 
general  and  hearty  co-operation  of  his  people ;  and  if  that 
can  be  secured  by  us,  we  need  not  despair  for  our  want  of 
any  other  influence.  The  Fr.;ach  government,  during  the 
past  year,  established  a  splendid  system  of  public  instruc- 
tion ;  and  the  semi-weekly  paper  and  the  monthly  maga- 
zine, published  by  the  minister  of  instruction,  inform  us 
that  it  expressly  avows,  as  essential  principles,  that  religion* 
education  is  inseparable  from  intellectual ;  that  the  interests 
of  the  state  require  that  every  child  be  instructed ;  and  that 
the  profession  of  a  teacher,  in  every  department,  must  be 
rendered  respectable  in  the  eyes  of  the  public.  Through 
the  investigations  made,  the  best  systems  in  Europe  may 
now  be  obtained  from  France ;  and  nothing  remains  to  be 
done  but  to  educate  teachers  enough,  and  to  excite  proper 
emulation  among  the  people. 

"  Make  the  results  of  education  known,  and  you  will 
awaken  interest  in  schools :  show  parents  and  teacliers  better 
systems  than  they  have,  and  they  will  wish  to  obtain  them : 
raise  the  salaries  of  teachers,  treat  them  with  due  re- 
spect, and  you  may  have  good  ones.    In  many  points  men 
of  their  practical  knowledge  will  easily  improve  by  the  mere 
exhibition  of  apparatus,  or  by  witnessing  the  management 
of  a  model-class  for  a  half  hour.     Encourage,  therefore, 
the  meetings  of  common  school-teachers  in  the  town  and 
the  county,  for  thus,  still  more  than  in  the  case  of  the 
library,  the  information  of  each  becomes  the  property  of  ^^.1. 
We  must  remember  that  our  schools  should  never  be  left 
alone  by  the  good  and  the  intelligent,  until  they  shall  have 
been  placed  on  the  best  possible  footing.     Our  teachers 
ought  to  be  retained  permanently  in  their  profession,  and  re- 
spected as  highly  as  any  members  of  society.     They  ought 
also  to  be  put  in  pos.  ession  of  every  improvement  for  their 
aid  which  is  known  in  the  worid.    Our  commerce  with 
foreign  nations  is  never  made  subservient  to  its  highest  ob- 
jects so  long  as  we  do  not  by  means  of  it  promote  the  dif^ 
fusion  of  useful  knowledge;  and  intellectual  must  go  hand 
in  hand  with  reUgious.    And  mark  the  tendency  of  frequent 


-JS 


IH 


ROUTE  TO  PROVIDENCE. 


r 


association !  It  is  only  the  extension  of  that  principle  on 
which  true  friends  receive  mutual  benefit  from  conversuig 
on  a  topic  with  which  they  are  partially  acquainted.  They 
share  the  whole  stock  with  each  other,  and  at  the  same  time 
are  stimulated  to  obtain  and  communicate  more  m  future. 

By  such  remarks  as  these  the  individuals  present  feel 
encouraged  to  further  the  good  objects  by  such  means  as 
are  in  their  power.  The  stranger  departs,  but  some  one  or 
more  he  leaves  behind  are  prepared  to  act  on  a  committee  to 
procure  lectures  for  the  winter,  or  to  solicit  the  loan  of 
books,  to  visit  the  schools,  to  collect  minerals,  to  make  a 
map  of  the  town,  to  correspond  with  some  other  society,  to 
collect  historical  facts  of  the  region  in  which  he  dwells,  or 
to  raise  funds  to  procure  a  philosophical  apparatus,  or  possi- 
bly to  erect  a  building  for  the  society.  The  meetmg  has 
convinced  some  individual  at  least  that  he  could  do  more 
than  he  before  believed ;  and  more  than  one  are  now  started 
on  a  career  in  which  the  example  and  support  of  others, 
with  success  in  new  exertions,  will  probably  display  to 
themselves  powers  of  mind  and  means  of  usefulness,  as  well 
as  of  enjoyment,  of  which  they  have  before  been  quite  un- 

suspicious.  /.        •  1 

In  a  country  like  this,  where  such  a  state  of  society 
has  been  established,  great  advantages   are   enjoyed  by 
parents  in  rearing  their  children.    And  of  this  many  of  our 
emigrants  appear  sensible ;   for  some  of  them  send  theu 
little  ones  from  the  South  to  be  educated  among  the  scenes 
and  moral  influences  of  their  infancy.     No  higher  expres- 
sio'i  of  attachment  and  veneration  can  be  paid  to  their  na- 
tive land  than  thi»,  by  such  men  as  have  done  what  they 
could,  to  improve  the  intelligence  and  morality  of  the  regions 
where  they  dwell.     Education  is  a  staple  commodity  of 
Massachusetts  and  Conrecticut,  and  more  or  less  so  of  some 
of  the  other  northern  states.    A  child  here  is  as  sure  of 
good  examples,  and  good  intellectual  and  moral  instruction, 
as  he  would  be  of  having  rice  enough  in  South  Carolina, 
Bugar-cane  in  Louisiana,  or  Indian  corn  in  Ohio. 

The  route  from  Boston  to  New-York,  through  Providence, 
is  interesting  on  several  accounts,  but  is  well  known;  and 


besides, 
time  to 
dreadful 
can  use 
ent  day : 
general 


ever,  It  1 


New.1 


NoTii 
tion  and 
irears. 
cept  the 
extensiv 
Bunker' 
on  a  1 
not  op( 
markers 
have  n( 
)b's, 
in  difTei 
What  S' 
travellir 
riving  a 
mission 
porters 
up  or  ( 
arms,  o: 
How  y( 
as  they 
aboTB  t 


OYIDENCE. 


TRATBLllRS. 


17S 


:ten8ion  of  that  principle  on 
tual  benefit  from  conversing 
1  partially  acquainted.   They 
li  other,  and  at  the  same  time 
>mraunicate  more  in  future." 
the  individuals  present  feel 
od  objects  by  such  means  as 
iger  departs,  but  some  one  or 
)ared  to  act  on  a  committee  to 
,er,  or  to  solicit  the  loan  of 
collect  minerals,  to  make  a 
d  with  some  other  society,  to 
region  in  which  he  dwells,  or 
losophical  apparatus,  or  possi- 
J  society.     The  meeting  has 
least  that  he  could  do  more 
more  than  one  are  now  started 
imple  and  support  of  others, 
)n8,  will  probably  display  to 
id  means  of  usefulness,  as  well 
ley  have  before  been  quite  un^ 


besides,  if  I  should  stop  to  speak  of  it,  I  should  not  find 
time  to  complete  the  remaining  part  of  my  tour.  It  is  a 
dreadful  thing  for  a  writer  to  have  more  materials  than  he 
can  use ;  an  evil,  fortunately,  not  very  common  at  the  pres- 
ent day ;  for  if  we  may  judge  authors  by  their  books,  they 
generally  want  nothing  more  than  something  to  say.  How- 
ever, it  is  my  chance  this  time  to  suffer  under  a  surfeit. 


here  such  a  state  of  society 
advantages   are   enjoyed  by 
ren.    And  of  this  many  of  oin 
for  some  of  them  send  their 
be  educated  among  the  scenes 
r  infancy.    No  higher  expres- 
ration  can  be  paid  to  their  na- 
men  as  have  done  what  they 
nee  and  morality  of  the  regions 
ion  is  a  staple  commodity  of 
ut,  and  more  or  less  so  of  some 
A  child  here  is  as  sure  of 
ellectual  and  moral  instruction, 
rice  enough  in  South  Carolina, 
Indian  corn  in  Ohio. 
New-York,  through  Providence, 
;ovmts,  but  is  weU  known ;  and 


CHAPTER  XXni. 

New- York— Hotels — Sculpture— South  America— Dr.  Sweet — 
Foreign  Inventions. 

NoTHiNQ  is  more  remarkable  than  the  rapid  multiplica- 
tion and  extension  of  hotels  in  New- York  within  a  few 
years.  About  six  or  eight  years  ago  there  was  none  ex- 
cept the  City  Hotel,  which  was  considered  as  affording  very 
extensive,  and  at  the  same  time  genteel  accommodations ; 
BunkerV,  Washington  Hall,  and  Park  Place  House  being 
on  a  less  extensive  scale.  The  American  Hotel  was 
not  opened  without  some  anticipations  among  idle  re- 
markers  that  the  city  would  not  support  it ;  and  yet  we 
have  now  the  National,  the  Adelphi,  the  United  States, 
Webb^s,  the  Franklin,  and,  without  mentioning  many  others 
in  different  streets,  lastly,  the  moose,  the  mammoth.  Holt's. 
What  scenes  of  bustle  arc  presented  at  the  doors  in  the 
travelling-season,  especially  at  the  hours  of  steamboats  ar- 
riving and  departing,  which  now  occur  with  but  short  inter- 
missions! How  roll  the  coaches  to  and  from;  how  the 
porters  jostle  you  and  one  another ;  how  the  strangers  pour 
up  or  down  the  side-walks,  with  their  great  coats  on  their 
arms,  or  pack  their  wives  and  children  hastily  into  coaches. 
How  you  can  instantly  distinguish  these  birds  of  passage 
as  they  stop  at  the  comer  before  you,  and  survey  the  houses 
aboTB  them  from  top  to  bottom^  and  then  gaie  at  the  crowd 


176 


MIW-TOmK. 


Tushing  by  them,  m  if  hunting  for  a  needle  m  a  hay-mow; 
What  a  difference  it  must  make  with  them  m  respect  to  the 
pleasure  of  their  journey,  and  the  information  they  may 
carry  home,  whether  they  find  a  bed  to  lodge  m  or  not ;  and 
whether  comfortable  things  befall  them  or  otherwise.  As 
we  pass  them  in  the  street,  it  seems  but  a  matter  of  litUe 
concern  whether  they  are  lodged  here,  or  there,  or  nowhere ; 
whether  they  are  treated  honestly  or  have  their  pockets 
picked.  But  it  is  much  to  them.  O  this  familiarity  with 
crowds  and  bustle,  this  packing  down  of  human  flesh  m 
cities  like  jerked  beef,  makes  us  in  some  respects  wonder- 
fully selfish  and  indifferent  to  our  species. 

Speaking  of  hotels— Holt's  is  the  mammoth  of  them  all. 
Seeking  a  friend  one  day,  a  gentleman  traced  him  to  Holt's, 
inquired  for  him  at  the  bar,  and  was  told  that  although 
not  in  his  room,  he  was  somewhere  in  the  house.  "  That 
was  what  I  was  afraid  of,"  said  he—"  I  shall  never  find  him. 
If  he  had  gone  out  I  would  have  given  him  a  fair  chase 
through  the  city,  with  some  small  hope  of  finding  him :  but 
in  such  a  boundless  labyrinth  as  this  I  wUl  not  waste  time 

in  searching  for  him."  ,      u      •    • 

This  hotel  is  sometimes  called  Holt's  castle;  but  it  is 
rather  the  castle  of  indolence,  or  more  properly  that  of  glut- 
tony. "  The  refectory,"  "  hot  coffee,"  "  the  ordinary,"  "  pri- 
vate dining-room,"  &c.  &c.,  these  are  conspicuous  words 
blazoned  on  the  doors  and  along  the  passages.  Labourers, 
horses  and  carts  are  often  seen  lining  the  curb-stones,  toil- 
ing and  groaning  even  m  removing  the  refuse  and  fragments 
of  those  enormous  feasts  which  are  daily  consumed  in  this 
surfeit  factory.  A  steam-engine  puffs  and  perspires  all  day 
to  raise  aloft  tons  of  food,  merely  for  hundreds  of  trencher- 
men to  bring  it  down  again ;  and,  to  judge  from  the  smoke 
and  hissing,  one  would  think  the  inroads  of  hunger  were 
more  difficult  to  resist  than  the  current  of  the  Hudson  or  the 

Mississippu  r    m    ^    „ 

This  pile  of  granite  is  in  one  sense  a  temple  of  "  1  aste; 

and  what  species  of  taste  that  is,  the  spectator  may  judge 

from  any  commanding  view  within  some  miles,  by  the  broad 
banner  that  floats  on  ite  top,  bearing  an  enormous  green 


roomE 

painti 

views 

ticula 

is  cal 

our  c 

abroa 

Flore 

palac 

most 

and  i 

and 

tioni: 

coun 


IK. 

for  a  needle  in  a  hay-mow: 
with  them  in  respect  to  the 
the  information  they  may 
bed  to  lodge  in  or  not ;  and 
ill  them  or  otherwise.  As 
earns  but  a  matter  of  little 
I  here,  or  there,  or  nowhere ; 
istly  or  have  their  pockets 
3m.  O  this  familiarity  with 
ig  down  of  human  flesh  in 
IS  in  some  respects  wonder- 
lur  species. 

is  the  mammoth  of  them  all. 
itleman  traced  him  to  Holt's, 
and  was  told  that  although 
vhere  in  the  house.  "  That 
he — "  I  shall  never  find  him. 
lave  given  him  a  fair  chase 
lall  hope  of  finding  him :  but 
as  this  I  will  not  waste  time 

illed  Holt's  castle;  but  it  is 
jr  more  properly  that  of  glut- 
coffee,"  "  the  ordinary,"  "pri- 
these  are  conspicuous  words 
ig  the  passages.  Labourers, 
3n  lining  the  curb-stones,  toil- 
ving  the  refuse  and  fragments 
ch  are  daily  consumed  in  this 
ne  puffs  and  perspires  all  day 
rely  for  hundreds  of  trencher- 
and,  to  judge  from  the  smoke 
i  the  inroads  of  hunger  were 
s  current  of  the  Hudson  or  the 

le  sense  a  temple  of  "  Taste;" 
lat  is,  the  spectator  may  judge 
ithin  some  miles,  by  the  broad 
),  bearing  an  eaormous  green 


SCITtPTURl  AS  AM  AMUSEMINT. 


177 


turtle  \  The  si^ht  of  such  an  ensign  .«  not  a  ^•^f^'Jy- 
inir  one  to  a  man  oi  letters,  unless  mdeed  he  be  suffering 
under  a  paroxysm  of  hunger,  to  which  his  tribe  are  said  to 
be  rather  predisposed.  Under  other  circumstances,  he  ex- 
claims,  O  that  my  countrymen  would  content  themselves  wiA 
moderation  in  their  animal  enjoyments,  and  sacrifice  more 
to  the  mind !  .i  this  bar  were  converted  into  a  library ;  U 
tomes  of  knowledge  were  put  in  the  place  of  bottles  aiid  de- 
canters,  and  the  halls  were  furnished  with  food  for  the  in- 
tellect, what  a  splendid  university  would  this  be ! 

I  have  been  visiting  some  of  the  artists  and  exhibition- 
rooms ;  and  having  already  indulged  in  a  few  remarks  on 
paintings  and  painters,  I  might  apply  some  of  the  same 
iriews  to  sculpture ;  but  shall  not  stop  here  to  be  very  par- 
ticular.     I  would  briefly  remark,  that  taste  or  genius,  as  it 
is  called  in  sculpture,  need  not  be  of  so  gradual  g^wth  in 
our  country  as  many  persons  think.    Many  of  our  travellen. 
abroad  will  tell  you,  that  an  hour  spent  in  the  "^"-e"™  «[ 
Florence,  or  in  the  select  society  of  Apollo  and  Co.,  in  he 
palace  of  the  Vatican,  would  be  sufiicient  to  convert  the 
most  rude  taste  to  something  very  refined  and  intelligent, 
and  as  for  genius,  did  not  Canova  grow  up  m  a  few  years ; 
and  was  not  his  life  more  than  long  enough  to  revolu- 
tionize  the  w«rld  of  artists?     Even  in  the  most  refined 
countries,  every  new  generation  must  be  educated  to  refine- 
ment.    We  have,  therefore,  only  to  use  the  proper  means, 
and  in  a  very  short  time  might  have  taste  and  gemus,  and 
the  results  of  both  combined. 

It  is  a  slavish  doctrine  too,  that  no  artist  can  be  worthy 

of  respect  who  has  not  worked  in  Rome.    Let  not  our  youth 

be  discouraged.     Take  a  chisel,  look  at  a  man,  and  make 

the  rock  look  as  much  like  him  as  yon  can.     But  the  rock 

is  hard.     Then  take  plaster,  or  common  red  clay  from  a 

brick-yard.     It  will  wash  off  from  the  hands  of  genius— 

Canova  used  it  often.     Set  about  gravely  to  do  what  you 

have  attempted  when  a  boy  with  the  snow.    Try  to  make 

a  man— it  is  not  so  puerile  a  businesQ,  neither  is  it  eojerj 

difficult.    You  are  not  to  be  perplexed  with  colours,  lights 

and  shades,  or  in  any  way  required  to  make  a  flat  surfao* 

16 


m 


MEW-TOnS* 


look  like  what  it  is  not.  You  may  measure  etery  part, 
turn  it  this  way  and  that  by  moving  the  block  on  which  it 
stands,  and  alter,  remould,  and  begin  again.  Nothing  is 
spent  but  a  little  leisure  time,  a  little  attention  and  ingenuuy, 
for  which  you  will  be  more  attentive  and  ingenious  here- 
after, and  a  better  judge  of  other  people's  work.  The  clay 
is  as  good  as  it  was  before,  and  you  art  not  obliged  to  show 
your  work  or  to  try  again.  You  are  already  like  an  artist 
in  one  respect;  you  have  failed  in  your  first  attempt  to  do 
as  well  as  you  wished.  Even  if  you  had  tried  to  chisel  a 
Btone  and  broken  it,  your  tool,  or  your  skin,  I  dare  say 
Canova  and  Thorwaldson  themselves  have  done  worse. 

There  have  been  fewer  good  sculptors  than  good  painters ; 
but  sculpture  is  a  much  more  natural  and  simple  art  than 
painting.     It  has  its  peculiar  principles,  and  in  certain  de- 
tails there  are  more  niceties ;  but  in  general  this  is  not  the 
case.     For  example— there  must  be  caution  used  to  guard 
against  any  unmeaning,  incorrect,  or  ridiculous  effect  in 
every  point  of  view  from  which  a  statue  or  group  is  to  be 
seen :  while  a  picture  has  but  one  side.     But  how  natural 
is  the  attempt  to  mould  a  material  mass  into  the  form  of 
humanity ;  and  how  much  better  do  even  children  succeed  in 
making  images  of  snow  than  in  drawing  men  with  coal  or 
chalk !     And  how  much  more  readily  do  the  uninstructed 
express  their  opinions  of  statues  than  of  paintings,  because 
they  feel  better  competent  to  judge !     I  need  but  remark  in 
addition,  how  Mr.  Augur  has  astonished  us  ell  with  hia 
♦' Jephtha  and  his  daugliter,"  because  he  had  independence 
enough  to  act  on  these  principles,  and  with  extraordinary 
taste  and  perseverance.     (How  strangely  I  forgot  to  speak 
of  Augur  with  praise  while  at  New-Haven !)    And  how  has 
the  Scotch  stone-cutter,  Thom,  with  the  coarsest  stone,  and 
in  spite  of  his  degraded  subject,  viz.  a  low  ale-house  group, 
imitated  nature  almost  to  perfection,  without  the  benefit  of 
instruction  or  a  single  model. 

I  have  said  a  good  deal  about  taste,  perhaps,  to  very  little 
purpose,  yet  I  must  express  my  displeasure  for  that  shown 
by  many  of  my  countrymen  in  several  recent  instances. 
While  works  of  real  merit,  recommended  by  patriotic,  or  at 


least 

exhibi 

talent, 

up  in 

crowd 

are  m 

dccidt 

moral 

has  ir 

cept  t 

comp( 

of  the 

flowe 

could 

the  s( 

trary, 

wouh 

lectu! 

detes 

this  ] 

purit; 

sente 

fectic 

Fron 

and 

acqu 

tion,' 

used 

F( 

will 

so  c 

in  m 

cern 

B 

layr 

fiUS[ 

won 
and 
sent 


K. 


1  may  measure  etery  part) 
ring  the  block  on  which  it 
begin  again.     Nothing  is 
ttle  attention  and  ingenuity, 
tentive  and  ingenious  here- 
r  people's  work.    The  clay 
ou  art  not  obliged  to  show 
)u  are  already  like  an  artist 
in  your  first  attempt  to  do 
f  you  had  tried  to  chisel  a 
I,  or  your  skin,  I  dare  aay 
selves  have  done  worse, 
culptors  than  good  painters ; 
latural  and  simple  art  than 
inciples,  and  in  certain  de- 
ut  in  general  this  is  not  the 
ist  be  caution  used  to  guard 
ect,  or  ridiculous  effect  in 
a  statue  or  group  is  to  be 
one  side.     But  how  natural 
rial  mass  into  the  form  of 
•  do  even  children  succeed  in 
n  drawing  men  with  coal  or 
:  readily  do  the  uninstructed 
>s  than  of  paintings,  because 
idge !     I  need  but  remark  in 
astonished  us  ell  with  hia 
ecause  he  had  independence 
pies,  and  with  extraordinary 
IT  strangely  I  forgot  to  speak 
Vew-Haven !)    And  how  has 
,  with  the  coarsest  stone,  and 
t,  viz.  a  low  ale-house  group, 
ection,  without  the  benefit  of 

It  taste,  perhaps,  to  very  little 
ly  displeasure  for  that  shown 
in  several  recent  instances. 
'ommeDded  by  pathotici  or  at 


FALSI  TASTE  AND  IMMORALITY. 


179 


least   respectiible   historical   associations   are  offered  for 
exhibition  almost  in  vain ;  while  artists  of  extraordmary 
talent,  pure  chara<-ler,  and  commendable  intentions  are  shut 
up  in  humble  corners  by  public  neglect,  wo  can  rush  m 
crowds  to  see  a  poor  and  meager  composition,  whose  merit* 
are  merely  of  an  inferior  order,  and  whose  tendency  is  of  a 
decidedly  corrupting  character.     1  speak  of  the  »  great  im- 
moral painting"  of  Adam  and  Eve  in  Paradise.    This  picture 
has  imleed  a  scripture  subject,  but  that  is  Us  only  merit,  ex- 
cept  the  mere  mechanical  execution  of  the  figures.      1  he 
composition  has  not  the  essential  quality  of  a  just  conception 
of  the  scone  portrayed.     There  is  no  Eden,  unless  a  few 
flowers   on   a   green   bank  may  express  it;  and  no  one 
could  ever  judge  of  the  artist's  intention  or  his  subject,  if 
the  serpent  and  the  apple  were  withdrawn.     On  the  con- 
trary, every  thing  else,  except  the  nudity  of  the  personages, 
would  lead  to  a  very  opposite  idea.     And  as  to  the  intel- 
lectual  character  of  the  piece,  how  mean,  as  well  as  how 
detestable,  appears  the  character  of  the  mind  expressed  in 
this  palming !     Such  an  artist  would  make  the  Ldcn  ol 
purity  a  mere  Mohammedan  paradise.     Nature  is  repre- 
senled  as  destitute  of  beauty;  and  man,  in  his  state  of  per- 
fection,  as  devoid  of  every  exalted  and  ennobling  sentiment. 
From  woman,  every  intellectual  trait  seems  to  be  removed ; 
and  how  insufferable  is  this,  ia  such  a  scene,  where  the 
acquisition  of  knowledge  was  the  great  instrument  of  tempta- 
tion,— the  object  to  which  she  had  yielded,  and  which  she 
used  as  the  ground  of  her  argument  with  Adam  ! 

For  my  own  part,  this  miserable  failure  of  a  foreign  artist 
will  ever  be  doubly  displeasing  to  me,  because  it  has  been 
so  extensively  rendered  popular  by  the  notice  of  men  who, 
in  my  opinion,  ought  to  have  possessed  more  taste  and  dis- 
cernment. J       .u 

Because  it  was  a  scripture  painting,  fathers  and  mothers, 
laymen  and  clergymen,  crowded  to  see  it,  indifferent  or  un- 
Buspicious  with  regard  to  the  impression  which  their  example 
would  have  on  virtuous  and  blushing  youth,  and  on  immoral 
and  debased  members  of  society,  who  rejoice  when  evU 
sentiments  are  allowed  to  walk  in  the  sunshine. 


'«K 


180 


NCW*YORK. 


•  Encouraged,  I  supponf ,  by  the  Roldcn  success  of  the  pro- 
prietor  of  this  painting,  Hughes,  a  man  of  extraoriluiary 
talent  as  a  sculptor,  has  produced  a  far  more  decent,  yei  a 
mean  subject,  which  addresses  itself  to  a  somewliat  simdar 
taste.  His  skill  ought  to  be  bestowed  in  a  more  worthy 
manner  before  it  receives  general  applause.  The  arts  arr 
infernal  demons  when  allied  with  immorality  or  even  will. 
debased  sentiments. 

While  we  are  crowding  to  Europe,  or  sendmg  our  children 
thither,  to  run  through  the  great  travelled  routes,  to  sec 
■ights  and  learn  to  talk  of  things  because  they  have  been 
visited  and  talked  of  before,  but  generally  with  very  little 
conception  of  why  or  wherefore,  our  country  is  an  object 
of  well-defined  interest  to  many  intelligent  foreigners.     1 
have  fallen  in  with  several  gentlemen  of  education  from 
South  America,  who  are  looking  upon  our  society  with  par- 
ticular  curiosity.     Our  southern  brethren,  in  their  zeal  to 
learn  the  art  of  conducting  a  country  upon  our  principles, 
chide  our  indifference ;  and  in  the  preference  many  of  them 
•how  for  subjecuj  substantially  important,  might  make  us 
ashamed  of  our  blind  admiration  for  the  splendid  imsel  of 
Europe.    While  we  are  reading  of  feudal  castles,  or  recall- 
ing with  misplaced  enthusiasm  our  visits  to  foreign  capi- 
tals or  courts,  they  are  asking  admission  into  our  printing- 
offices,  or  observing  the  apparatus  and  exercises  of  our  «ol- 
leges  and  schools.     They  are  attracted  by  these  things,  be- 
cause they  are  in  search  of  means  to  effect  a  definite  object, 
and  one  on  which  the  prosperity  and  indeed  the  existence 
of  their  country  depends.     The  apparatus  with  which  the 
flovemments  of  European  countries  are  carried  on  is  too 
expensive  for  them— it  is  entirely  out  of  the  question,  both 
because  it  is  too  dear  and  because  it  is  not  at  all  appro- 
priate to  their  condition  or  designs.     In  looking  over  the 
Old  World,  therefore,  they  see,  as  we  ought,  that  there  is 
nothing  appropriate  to  their  use  except  certain  scattered  in- 
stitutions, or  methods  here  and  there,  and  these  generally  not 
the  eaudy  machinery,  sustained  with  treasures,  exhibited  with 
pomp,  and  disguised  with  forms.     What  is  worth  knowmg 
in  Europe  is  generally  that  which  it  is  not  difficult  to  learn: 


IK. 


c  golden  success  of  the  pro- 
's, a  man  of  extraordinary 
ed  a  far  more  decent,  yet  a 
itself  to  a  somewhat  similar 
bestowed  in  a  more  worthy 
ral  applause.  The  arts  arr 
■ilh  immorality  or  even  with 

irope,or  sending  our  children 
eat  travelled  routes,  to  sec 
ngs  because  they  have  been 
mt  generally  with  very  little 
»re,  our  country  is  an  object 
,ny  intelligent  foreigners.     1 
rentlemcn  of  education  from 
ig  upon  our  society  with  par- 
rn  brethren,  in  their  zeal  to 
country  upon  our  principles, 
the  preference  many  of  them 
y  important,  might  make  us 
ition  for  the  splendid  tinsel  of 
Ig  of  feudal  castles,  or  recall- 
n  our  visits  to  foreign  capi- 
;  admission  into  our  printing- 
itus  and  exercises  of  our  «ol- 
attracted  by  these  things,  be- 
ans to  effect  a  definite  object, 
rity  and  indeed  the  existence 
le  apparatus  with  which  the 
mntries  are  carried  on  is  too 
irely  out  of  the  question,  both 
because  it  is  not  at  all  appro- 
lesigns.     In  looking  over  the 
36,  as  we  ought,  that  there  is 
ise  except  certain  scattered  in- 
1  there,  and  these  generally  iiot 
d  with  treasures,  exhibited  with 
ms.     What  is  worth  knowing 
rhich  it  is  not  difficult  to  learn: 


■OCTM  AMKRICANI. 


Ill 


what  we  should  look  upon,  few  eyes  :ire  likely  to  discover. 
The  youth  Amerii^ms  liave  .•oniesled  the  point  for  liberty 
and  indfpciulriicc  for  twenty  years  or  more  with  prejudice, 
ignorance,  and  iminoralily;  and  niiiny  of  their  statesmen, 
as  well  as  other  virtuous  citizens,  have  been  forced  to  the 
conviction  that  they  nuist  by  some  means  instruct  their 
countrymen  and  render  them  virtuous,  or  their  past  labours 
and  trials  will  be  unavailing.     Let  Europe  be  at  peace,  and 
permit  only  the  coiwurrence  of  such  circumstances  as  may 
be  imagined,  and  fleets  and  armies  will  cross  the  Atlantic 
to  recover  those  immeasurable  and  splendid  regions  to  the 
dominion  of  despotism.     Men  who  have  sacrificed  fortune, 
endured  wounds,  imprisonment,  and  exile,  the  loss  of  friend* 
and  families  for  the  benefit  of  their  country,  are  ready  to 
part  with  all  that  remains  rather  than  be  ultimately  defeated 
of  their  objects.     When  therefore  they  see  by  that  means  so 
simple  and  economical  as  the  propagation  of  knowledge,  the 
encouragement  of  virtue  and  industry,  their  point  may  be 
gained,  they  look  upon  the  steps  by  which  this  may  be 
effected  with  an  interest  which  might  excite  some  of  our 
talking  but  inactive  friends  of  education  and  public  industry, 
and  arouse  them  from  that  lethargy  which  so  extensively 
prevails  in  the  United  Slates. 

Some  of  these  South  Americans  having  visited  several 
of  our  institutions,  celebrations,  public,  and  Sunday-schools : 
"To  think,"  remarked  one  of  them,  "that  one-third  of  the 
capital  of  my  country  is  invested  in  the  convents !  How 
much  more  truly  great  are  such  monuments  as  your  public 
school-houses  than  any  of  the  edifices  of  Europe !  Whi  e 
seated  in  the  teacher's  desk,  after  a  silence,  he  exclaimed; 
"  If  I  could  learn  the  art  of  instruction  here,  I  should  desire 
no  higher  honour  than  to  devote  the  remainder  of  my  days 
to  teaching  the  poor."  This  gentleman  has  since  beeii  called 
to  the  presidency  of  Mexico  by  acclamation,  restored  peace 
in  the  midst  of  civil  war,  held  that  office  for  a  few  months, 
and  retired  to  private  life. 

"  What  have  we  here  ]"  said  another,  as  he  entered  an 
infant-school,  while  the  pupils  were  marching  to  drafts—"  a 
military  parade  commanded  by  women?    This  is  the  way 

16* 


182 


SEW-TfOBK. 


<o  lay  the  foundation  of  a  good  state.     I  have  no  higher 
pleasure,"  he  added,  "  than  to  visit  your  schools  and  col- 
leges."   He  is  now  displaying  at  home  his  devotion  to  learn- 
ing  in  all  its  branches,  under  the  most  favourable  circum- 
stances, viz.  as  president  of  the  republic  of  New  Grenada. 
One  of  his  most  enlightened  countrymen  and  personal 
friends,  in  his  first  visit  to  a  Sabbath-school,  found  the  in- 
fant class  singing  a  well-known  juvenile  hymn;  and  as  he 
understood  the   English  language,  said,  with  much  feel- 
ing, "Truly  the  children  of  the  United  States  are  taught  to 
repeat  sentiments  before  they  can  understand  them,  while 
other  nations  might  well  make  any  sacrifice  if  they  might 
with  truth  apply  them  to  themselves : — 

•My  God,  I  thank  thee,  thou  hart  plann'd 

A  better  lot  for  me  ; 
And  plac'd  me  in  this  Christian  land, 
Where  I  may  hear  of  Thee.' 

•«Iam  fully  convinced,"  said  he,  "that  sincere,  active 
benevolence  alone  is  true  greatness.     Serving  God,  loving 
all  mankind  as  brothers,  and  teaching  them  to  exercise  the 
same  feelings  towards  each  other— these  are  the  only  ob- 
jects worth  living  for.     The  principles  of  the  Gospel  ol 
Jesus  Christ  are  the  only  principles  on  which  we  can  de- 
pend for  private  or  public  happiness.     Honour,  pride,  and 
power— they  are  trifles,  mere  trifles."    The  sweet  harmony 
of  about  an  hundred  and  fifty  children  at  an  infant-school 
one  day  made  his  eyes  glisten ;  and  he  remarked,  "  How 
aflFecting  it  is  to  reflect,  that '  Except  ye  repent,  and  become 
as  little  chUdren,  ye  shall  in  no  case  enter  the  kingdom  of 
heaven.'"     This  gentleman,  the  father  of  an  interesting 
little  family,  six  or  seven  hundred  miles  in  the  interior  of 
Colombia,  of  which  republic  he  was  the  last  president,  re- 
turned thither  about  a  twelvemonth  since,  prepared  to  de- 
vote himself  to  the  active  promotion  of  education  in  all  its 
branches,  among  all  classes,  the  Indians  and  negroes  in- 
cluded ;  but  has  been  elected  to  the  vice-presidency  of  New 
Grenada,  and  compeUed  to  accept  of  that  station,  in  spite 
of  two  refusals. 


Th( 
counti 
of  out 
kinds 
of  ins 
teresti 
New' 
duty  t 
attacli 
narrow 
devott 
admir 
but  F 
ample 
intelli 
made 
regiot 

Iti 
to  kee 
provei 
Ther< 
possei 
go  to 
facilit 
feel  i 
made 

All 
Ameri 
same 
I  heal 
he  wj 

"D 
li  yoi 
made, 
you'vi 
terda} 
work( 
count 
a-pur] 


il  State.    I  have  no  higher 
visit  your  schools  and  col- 
t  home  his  devotion  to  leam- 
he  most  favourable  circum- 
5  republic  of  New  Grenada, 
id  countrymen  and  personal 
abbath-school,  found  the  in- 
a  juvenile  hymn ;  and  as  he 
lage,  said,  with  much  feel- 
5  United  States  are  taught  to 
can  understand  them,  while 
5  any  sacrifice  if  they  might 
elves : — 

,  thou  hast  plann'd 

Christian  land, 
fThee.' 

lid  he,  "that  sincere,  active 
atness.  Serving  God,  loving 
caching  them  to  exercise  the 
her — these  are  the  only  ob- 

principles  of  the  Gospel  of 
inciples  on  which  we  can  de- 
ippiness.  Honour,  pride,  and 
trifles."  The  sweet  harmony 
'  children  at  an  infant-school 
m ;  and  he  remarked,  "  How 
Except  ye  repent,  and  become 
no  case  enter  the  kingdom  of 

the  father  of  an  interesting 
mdred  miles  in  the  interior  of 
he  was  the  last  president,  re- 
emonth  since,  prepared  to  de- 
motion of  education  in  all  its 
,  the  Indians  and  negroes  in- 
to the  vice-presidency  of  New 
iccept  of  that  station,  in  spite 


Reeves's  PATENT  colours. 


188 


'  These  few  cases  have  been  mentioned  to  show  that  our 
countrymen  have'  been  too  long  inattentive  to  the  progress 
of  our  South  American  brethren  in  improvements  of  various 
kinds  ;  and  to  call  to  mind  the  important  fact,  that  similarity 
of  institutions  and  condition  are  rapidly  identifying  the  in- 
terests, the  hopes  and  fears  of  these  two  vast  portions  of  the 
New  World ;  and  it  is  daily  becoming  more  imperiously  our 
duty  to  seek  to  strengthen  rather  than  to  divide  our  mutual 
attachments,  which,  like  the  Isthmus  of  Darien,  though 
narrow,  should  be  as  indestructible  as  the  Andes.  Other 
devoted  friends  of  knowledge  and  virtue,  our  enthusiastic 
admirers  and  willing  pupils,  might  easily  be  mentioned; 
but  Pedraza,  Santander,  and  Mosquera  are  given  as  ex- 
amples in  which  noble  sentiments  expressed  among  us,  and 
intelligent  observations  made  in  our  country,  have  been 
made  to  produce  speedy  and  abundant  fruits  in  the  vast 
regions  to  which  they  have  returned. 

It  is  all  in  vain  for  foreign  artists  or  inventors  to  expect 
to  keep  from  our  countrymen  the  curious  and  useful  im- 
provements in  any  of  the  arts  they  practise  with  success. 
There  is  a  prying  spirit  among  us,  which  will  not  rest  till  it 
possesses  every  thing  that  promises  advantage.  Men  will 
go  to  the  ends  of  the  earth  for  facts  which  may  lighten, 
facilitate,  or  perfect  their  labours  in  whatever  craft  they 
feel  interested,  since  competition  in  manufacturing  has 
made  knowledge  and  skill  available  in  the  market. 

All  the  encomiums  that  can  be  bestowed,  however,  on 
American  curiosity  and  perseverance,  could  not  i^ive  me  the 
same  lively  impressions  of  its  nature  as  a  short  conversation 
I  heard  between  a  poor  man  and  a  shopkeeper,  with  whom 
he  was  bartering  some  neat  products  of  his  skill. 

"  Did  you  ever  see  any  of  Reeves's  Patent  Water  Colours  ? 
li  you  did,  I  suppose  you  don't  know  exactly  how  they  are 
made.  Now  these  are  as  much  Reeves's  Colours  as  them 
you've  got  in  your  case  yonder,  though  I  made  them  yes- 
terday myself.  You  don't  believe  that,  I  s'pose ;  but  I've 
worked  for  Reeves  in  London :  I  couldn't  find  out  in  this 
country  how  to  make  such  fine  paints ;  and  went  to  England 
a-purpose  to  larn,    I  didn't  see  why  I  shouldn't  help  him 


184 


NEW-YORK. 


'\ 


supply  this  country,  the  demand  has  got  to  be  so  great  now. 
Well  they  let  me  go  into  the  shop— they  thought  I  didnt 
know  nothing,  and  perhaps  I  didn't  such  a  terrible  deal. 
However,  I  know'd  so  much  as  this— I  got  so  pretty  soon 
that  I  could  make  the  patent  colours  as  well  as  anybody. 
But  I  wasn't  quite  ready  to  come  off  yet,  mind  you.  There 
was  the  camel's  hair-pencils ;  nobody  knew  how  to  make 
them  in  the  United  States— and  I  thought  I  might  as  weU 
lam  that  tue  while  my  nand  was  in.  Well,  I  left  Mr. 
Reeves's,  and  got  in  a  pencil-shop;  and  the  first  thmg  I 
found  out  was,  that  they  are  made  of  nothing  m  the  world 
but  squirrels'  tails." 

Here  was  an  exclamation  of  surprise  and  doubt. 

"If  they  an't,"  continued  the  narrator,  perfectly  una- 
bashed, » I  hope  I  may  never  stir  out  of  my  tracks.  I  tell 
you  they're  squirrels'  tails,  brought  from  America ;  and  if 
they  can  manufacture  them  cheap,  sartingly  we  ought  to 
undersell  'em.  But  then  there's  the  putting  the  hau:s  to- 
gether all  exactly  right,  and  getting  them  through  the  little 
end  of  a  chicken's  quill,  and  there  gluing  them  fast.    That's 

the  rub not  exactly  that  either— but  there's  the  sticking- 

place.  I  guess  I  worked  long  enough  at  that  to  find  out 
how  it  was  done,  and  then  had  to  be  told  and  look  too  be- 
fore  I  could  larn ;  and  law,  it's  easy  enough." 

"Well,  how  is  it?" 

"  Ah !"  replied  the  artisan,  with  a  shrewd,  penetratmg, 
and  ironical  look—"  that's  tellin'." 


wa 
con 
rell 
Pa. 

pul 
det 
tou^ 
he 
hor 
sini 
wai 
pas 
his 
our 
pos 
tain 
inh: 
I 
whi 
tow 
tell 
cov 
tun 
wh( 
per 
nos 

StO( 

and 

on 

and 


3RK. 

has  got  to  be  so  great  now. 
shop — they  thought  I  didn't 

didn't  such  a  terrible  deal. 
IS  this — I  got  so  pretty  soon 
:olours  as  well  as  anybody, 
ne  otr  yet,  mind  you.    There 

nobody  knew  how  to  make 
nd  I  thought  I  might  as  well 
1  was  in.  Well,  I  left  Mr. 
-shop ;  and  the  first  thing  I 
lade  of  nothing  in  the  world 

'  surprise  and  doubt, 
the  narrator,  perfectly  una- 
5tir  out  of  my  tracks.  I  tell 
ought  from  America ;  and  if 
heap,  sartingly  we  ought  to 
e's  the  putting  the  hairs  to- 
etiing  them  through  the  little 
ere  gluing  them  fast.  That's 
er — but  there's  the  sticking- 
T  enough  at  that  to  find  out 
id  to  be  told  and  look  too  he- 
's easy  enough." 

with  a  shrewd,  penetrating, 
in'." 


185 


CHAPTER  XXIV. 

A  new  Comer  of  the  World— Recollection*  of  the  Cholera. 

Among  the  interesting  individuals  I  saw  in  New- York, 
was  a  tall  man,  of  the  negro  race,  who  was  brought  to  this 
country  more  than  two  years  since,  by  Captain  James  Mor- 
rell,  from  a  group  of  islands  which  he  discovered  in  the 
Pacific  Ocean,  during  a  voyage  he  made  to  those  seas.  The 
public  have  had  before  them  for  a  year  his  large  volume, 
detailing  his  voyages,  travels,  and  adventures,  and  briefly 
touching  upon  those  islands  and  certain  others,  of  which 
he  claims  to  be  the  discoverer.  Two  men  were  brought 
home  by  Captain  Morrell ;  one  of  whom  died  some  months 
since  of  the  consumption,  in  the  New-York  Hospital.  He 
was  of  a  difl^erent  language  from  the  survivor,  and  very 
passionate  and  disobliging,  never  accommodating  himself  to 
his  exile.  Both  had  previously  been  exhibited  in  some  of 
our  principal  cities,  and  have  been  often  erroneously  sup- 
posed to  be  natives  of  the  Massacre  Islands,  at  which  Cap- 
tain Morrell  lost  many  of  his  crew  by  the  violence  of  the 
inhabitants. 

Having  formed  a  favourable  opinion  of  the  captain  from 
what  I  had  heard  from  one  c  '^  seamen,  of  his  humanity 
towards  these  poor  savages  ;  .  na  being  pleased  with  the  in- 
telligence, modesty,  and  philanthropic  sentiments  I  dis- 
covered in  him  after  a  slight  acquaintance,  I  took  an  oppor- 
tunity to  spend  some  time  with  the  man  above  mentioned, 
who  lives  in  his  family.  He  is  of  coarse  features,  almost 
perfectly  African,  with  large,  thick  lips,  curled  hair,  small 
nose  (a  little  flattened),  i)ut  is  well  formed,  excepting  a  slight 
stoop  at  the  shoulders.  His  colour  is  that  of  a  dark  mulaito, 
and  his  countenance  has  an  expression  of  honesty,  mingled 
on  acquaintance  with  mildness,  benevolence,  intelligence, 
and  friendliness,  which  render  it  interesting.     He  has  had 


J 


186 


nxw-york: 


but  little  instruction ;  but  from  this  circumstance  I  was  the 
better  able  to  form  an  opinion  of  the  mind  of  a  heathen  and 
a  barbarian.  I  have  leisure  at  present  to  say  but  very  little 
in  regard  to  a  man  of  whom,  during  repeated  interviews,  I 
obtained  materials  enough  to  entertain  a  lover  of  novelties 
for  some  hours. 

Daco  (pronounced  Dahco)  was  son  of  a  chief  of  his  na- 
tive island,  which  is  one  of  a  small,  but  populous  group, 
within  six  degrees  of  the  equator,  and  near  longitude  115 
west.     His  native  island,  Uniapa  (or  Ooneeahpah),  has 
thr?e  prominent  mountains,  with  some  rough  ground  near 
the  sea,  where  was  Daco's  residence,  among  a  number  of 
people  whom  he  commanded.     His  father's  people  dwelt 
on  the  side  of  one  of  the  mountains,  his  mother's  in  another 
place,  &c.  (fee,  there  being  a  number  of  petty  princes  on 
each  of  the  inhabited  islands.     War,  he  represents,  is  never 
carried  on  between  different  islands,  but  only  between  tribes 
of  the  same  island ;  and  then  wounds  are  much  more  fre- 
quent than  deaths.    The  land  is  chiefly  covered  with  forests; 
and  he  gave  me  names  for  fifty  or  sixty  of  our  trees,  shrubs, 
flowers,  &;c.,  some  of  which  we  have  no  purely  English 
names  for.     The  men  go  without  any  clothes  at  all :  the 
women  wear  a  single  garment :  the  climate  being  extremely 
hot.     They  build  houses  after  a  model  which  I  have  ;  bury 
their  dead  in  them ;  purchase  wives  with  several  articles 
which  pass  as  money ;  practise  polygamy ;  and  some  super- 
stitious ceremonies  to  cure  diseases,  obtain  favourable  winds, 
rain,  fcc,  but  have  no  idolatry.     They  acknowledge  one 
Supreme  Being,  the  creator,  rewarder  of  the  good  and  pim- 
isher  of  the  bad,  invisible,  &c.     They  have  traces  of  a 
revelation,  considering  a  particular  Jewish  rite  which  they 
practice  as  commanded  by  God  to  make  men  better ;  and 
their  art  of  curing  diseases  and  producing  rain  is  also  derived 
from  him.     Pango  is  the  only  inferior  deily  he  informed  me 
of.     He  presides  over  an  inferioi  world,  where  every  thing 
is  delightful,  and  whither  the  good  go  after  death.     They 
are,  however,  invisible  to  each  other,  and  can  communicate 
only  by  the  so'mds  of  their  voices.     There  is  plenty  of 
plants,  flowers,  ^  .imals,  and  objects  agreeable  to  the  sight : 


but  1 
throu 
habit 
may 

Tl 
pdroi 
visibl 
Bchoc 
suppi 
musi( 
sixm 
and  i 
name 
sjmil 
Hebr 
tongi 
peopl 

Tl 
other 
and  ( 
often 
man} 
fishei 
like  I 
the  n 
speai 
areo 
canoi 
large 
must 
hean 
busti 
habit 
most 
peop 
poeti 
plain 
than 


ork: 

this  circumstance  I  was  the 
of  the  mind  of  a  heathen  and 
;  present  to  say  but  very  little 
during  repeated  interviews,  I 

entertain  a  lover  of  novelties 

(vas  son  of  a  chief  of  his  na- 
a  small,  but  populous  group, 
uator,  and  near  longitude  115 
niapa  (or  Ooneeahpah),  has 
'ith  some  rough  ground  near 
sidence,  among  a  number  of 
I.  His  father's  people  dwelt 
itains,  his  mother's  in  another 
I  number  of  petty  princes  on 

War,  he  represents,  is  never 
ilands,  but  only  between  tribes 
a  wounds  are  much  more  fre- 
is  chiefly  covered  with  forests ; 
y  or  sixty  of  our  trees,  shrubs, 

we  have  no  purely  English 
thout  any  clothes  at  all :  the 
:  the  climate  being  extremely 
r  a  model  which  I  have  ;  bury 
B  wives  with  several  articles 
je  polygamy ;  and  some  super- 
eases,  obtain  favourable  winds, 
itry.  They  acknowledge  one 
rewarder  of  the  good  and  pim- 
&c.  They  have  traces  of  a 
ticular  Jewish  rite  which  they 
3od  to  make  men  better ;  and 
d  producing  rain  is  also  derived 
r  inferior  deily  he  informed  me 
erioi  world,  where  every  thing 

good  go  after  death.  They 
sh  other,  and  can  communicate 
r  voices.  There  is  plenty  of 
objects  agreeable  to  the  sight : 


DACO,  THE  SAVAGE  ISLANDER. 


187 


but  they  are  all  white.  The  entrance  to  this  world  is 
through  a  cavern  in  the  island  of  Garubi  (Garroobee),  in* 
habited  only  by  two  men,  who,  according  to  his  description, 
may  be  Albinos. 

The  inhabitants  of  that  world  are  often  spoken  of  as  tune 
pHroco,  white  men ;  because  white  is  nearest  to  what  is  in- 
visible. Hence,  when  Captain  Morrell  and  the  crew  of  his 
schooner,  the  Antarctic,  were  found  to  be  white,  they  were 
supposed  to  be  spirits.  That  invisible  world  is  the  land  of 
music :  Pango  having  given  the  people  of  the  islands  five  or 
six  musical  instruments,  one  of  which  is  the  three-holed  flute, 
and  another  the  shepherd's  reed.  The  resemblance  of  his 
name  with  that  of  the  Classical  Pan,  struck  me ;  as  did  the 
similarity  of  some  of  his  words  with  those  of  the  Greek  and 
Hebrew  languages,  as  well  as  certain  peculiarities  in  the 
tongue  not  to  be  expected  in  one  belonging  to  such  a 
people. 

They  cultivate  a  species  of  potato,  beans,  and  several 
other  roots  and  vegetables;  and  have  apples,  cocoanuts, 
and  other  valuable  fruits.  Their  birds  are  numerous,  and 
often  of  briUiant  plumage;  they  have  turtles,  and  catch 
many  fish  of  diflferent  sizes,  with  either  spears,  or  what  our 
fishermen  call  grains.  The  largest  animal  is  something 
like  the  wild  boar,  which  has  not  the  tail  on  the  back  like 
the  native  swine  of  other  Pacific  islands,  and  is  hunted  with 
spears.  In  one  of  the  islands  are  ostriches,  whose  quills 
are  one  of  their  articles  of  trade  :  dogs  are  common.  "Their 
canoes,  which  are  owned  only  by  certain  littoral  tribes,  are 
large,  and  move  with  rapidity.  One  (jf  the  islands  at  least 
must  be  volcanic ;  and  from  one  of  the  historical  tales  I 
heard,  I  presume  that  a  tremendous  explosion  and  com- 
bustion, which  once  destroyed  a  town  and  many  of  its  in- 
habitants (at  the  command  of  Pango,  who  sometimes  is  a 
most  destructive  demon),  were  volcanic.  The  songs  of  this 
people  are  remarkable,  as  well  as  their  propensity  to  rude 
poetry  or  rhythm.  They  have  various  airs,  generally  of  a 
plaintive  cast,  but  with  greater  compass  and  variety,  I  think, 
than  are  fouud  in  most  other  savage  nations.    The  language 


18ft 


NEW'YORK. 


is  smooth  and  melodious,  having  no  sound  which  we  cannot 
easily  make,  unless  it  be  an  occasional  guttural  g.  They 
interchange  some  of  the  consonant  sounds,  but  generally  not 
the  same  aa  the  Sandwich  and  other  islanders,  whose  lan- 
guages I  have  examined.  The  tongue  has  a  considerable 
resemblance  to  those  of  some  of  the  Polynesian  Islands  in 
structure,  and  a  distant  one  in  words ;  but  it  is  more  agree- 
able, harmonious,  and  manly.  A  "  nursery  song,"  begin- 
ning Eoa,  eao,  labi  lahi  vivi  na  potu,  &c.,  has  a  very  sweet 
air,  and  contains  several  kind  epithets  addressed  to  the 
child,  promising  that  its  head  shall  be  ornamented  with  a 
feather  of  the  labi  or  parrot  if  it  will  cease  crying.  A 
swimming  song  and  a  canoe  song,  which  also  I  wrote  down, 
are  mellifluous  and  appropriate  to  their  subjects. 

Daco  has  a  disposition  of  the  most  frank,  simple,  and 
amiable  description.  He  admires  much  what  he  sees,  and 
says  that  there  are  many  very  good  men  among  us ;  and 
though  he  is  impatient  to  revisit  his  own  land,  says  he  will 
"  come  back  to  'Merriky  Isle"  (America  island),  and  bring 
one  of  his  brothers  with  him.  He  was  pleased  with  a 
proposition  to  teach  his  people  what  would  be  useful  to 
them ;  and  if  instructed,  or  accompanied  by  some  judicious 
philanthropist  on  his  return,  would  no  doubt  render  them 
material  service.  I  visited  a  school  with  him,  and  he  took 
a  deep  interest  in  some  simple  religious  instruction  which 
the  children  received  in  his  presence,  as  he  has  a  little 
knowledge  of  our  language.  He  promised  on  his  arrival  at 
his  island  to  collect  the  children  every  Sabbath,  and  teach 
tliem  in  like  manner. 

It  strikes  a  person  strangely  to  feel  such  a  kind  of  friend- 
ship towards  an  ignorant  savage  as  I  acquired  for  Daco ; 
but  one's  attachment  for  such  an  individual  may  be  as 
sincere,  and  productive  of  more  real  gratification,  than  we 
sometimes  find  among  the  children  of  art,  the  sons  of  luxury 
and  vice  around  us ;  and  I  have  the  pleasure  of  thinking 
that  my  feelings  were  reciprocated,  which  is  more  gratifying 
than  a  whole  volume  of  false  professions  of  friendship. 
Some  parts  of  the  city  awakened  in  me  recollections  of 


the  8 
sevei 
cxpr( 
F< 
busy 
sobei 
disea 
its  Ti 
that 
vatia 
pear 
by  tl 
dreai 

JngF 
I  foil 
solo 
as  it 
with 
unpi 
T 
ble( 
ally 
abur 
thou 
of  < 
son: 
ing 
with 
ever 
we 
cam 
com 
thin 
of  f 
prol 
bed 
rem 
or  1 
like 


IK. 

;  no  sound  which  we  cannot 
casional  guttural  g.  They 
int  soundu,  but  generally  not 
other  islanders,  whose  lan- 
tonguc  has  a  considerable 
if  the  Polynesian  Islands  in 
irords ;  but  it  is  more  agree- 

A  "  nursery  song,"  begin- 
potu,  &c.,  has  a  very  sweet 

epithets  addressed  to  the 
shall  be  ornamented  with  a 
if  it  will  cease  crying.  A 
ig,  which  also  I  wrote  down, 
to  Uicir  subjects, 
he  most  frank,  simple,  and 
res  much  what  he  sees,  and 

good  men  among  us ;  and 
t  his  own  land,  says  he  will 
(America  island),  and  bring 
,  He  was  pleased  with  a 
e  what  would  be  useful  to 
lompanied  by  some  judicious 
rould  no  doubt  render  them 
chool  with  him,  and  he  took 
e  religious  instruction  which 
presence,  as  he  has  a  little 
36  promised  on  his  arrival  at 
en  every  Sabbath,  and  teach 

to  feel  such  a  kind  of  friend- 
age  as  I  acquired  for  Daco ; 
h  an  individual  may  be  as 
re  real  gratification,  than  we 
Iren  of  art,  the  sons  of  luxury 
ive  the  pleasure  of  thinking 
.ted,  which  is  more  gratifying 
rofessions  of  friendship, 
ikeaed  in  me  recollections  of 


R£C0LLBCTI0NS  OF  THE  CHOLERA. 


180 


the  season  of  1832,  and  the  cliolera  in  New- York.  I  spent 
several  weeks  there  at  that  time,  and  may  be  excused  for 
expressing  a  few  of  the  feelings  then  excited. 

For  myself,  I  had  found  it  difficult  to  realize,  that  the 
busy  and  apparently  gay  crowds  in  the  streets  might  be 
sobered  and  c^'.ldened  in  an  hour  by  the  appearance  of  the 
disease,  and  attired  towards  all  points  of  the  compass  by 
its  ravages,  i  iideed.  I  had  found  it  hard  to  persuade  myself 
that  I  was  soon  to  know  it  by  dreadful  experience  or  obser- 
vation. And  when  it  was  confidently  reported  to  have  ap- 
peared, I  flattered  myself  that  it  would  have  been  modified 
by  the  climate ;  and  anxiously  inquired  whether  it  had  that 
dreadful  blue  complexion,  those  irresistible  spasms  and  rack- 
ing pains,  accompanied  with  an  undisturbed  mind.  And  when 
I  found  that  the  same  monster  was  among  us,  which  I  had 
so  long  regarded  as  fabulous  in  India,  and  that  he  had  come 
as  it  were  with  a  stride  across  the  Atlantic,  I  began  to  look 
within :  for  he  had  seemed  to  cry,  "  To  the  ready  and  the 
unprepared  I  come." 

Tliere  was  a  peculiar  seriousness  immediately  percepti* 
ble  on  the  face  of  society.  The  gay  and  lively  had  gener- 
ally disappeared,  and  no  longer  interrupted  such  thoughts  as 
abundant  leisure  inclined  others  to  entertain.  And  what 
thoughts  were  these?  We  were  soon  deserted  by  most 
of  our  fiiends,  or  had  deserted  them  for  the  same  rea- 
son :  we  had  momentary  expectations  for  weeks  of  see- 
ing our  own  children,  parents,  brothers,  and  sisters  seized 
with  the  terrible  disease  before  our  eyes  ;  and  the  morning, 
evening,  noon,  and  night  air  being  almost  equally  dangerous, 
we  could  do  little  out  of  doors  for  days  in  succession.  I 
cannot  easily  imagine  a  case  in  wliich  tlie  body  could  be 
condemned  to  more  perfect  idleness,  while  there  was  every 
thing  to  excite  and  occupy  the  mind.  Almost  every  species 
of  food,  commonly  considered  harmless  or  nutritious,  was 
prohibited ;  and  the  very  medicines  which  we  kept  by  our 
bedsides,  in  our  offices,  stores,  and  pockets,  we  wore  pe- 
remptorily forbidden  to  take  or  administer  a  moment  before 
a  moment  after  the  appropriate  time.     In  circunisuinces 


1 


or 


like  these  it  would  be  impossible  for  any  mind,  observant 


17 


190 


NIW-YORK. 


of  its  own  reflections  and  the  movements  of  others,  not  to 
receive  instruction.  Not  only  my  own  feelings,  but  the  ex' 
pressions  dropped  from  the  lips  of  others,  were  of  a  much 
more  solemn  tone,  and  deeper  import  than  usual.  I  found 
an  involuntary  "  farewell"  on  my  tongue  whenever  I  parted 
from  a  friend,  even  for  a  few  hours,  and  a  kind  of  surprise 
at  meeting  any  one  whom  I  had  not  seen  for  a  day  or  two. 
Life  was  so  precarious  that  it  was  not  calculated  on  as  en* 
during ;  and  I  now  felt  something  of  that  astonishment  at 
death's  delay  which  I  had  oilen  experienced  on  his  arrival. 
The  .tone  of  conversation,  with  whomsoever  I  spoke,  was 
evidently  very  different  from  that  of  ordinary  times:  for 
there  were  strong  and  irrepressible  feelings  in  every  breast, 
which  laid  their  hands  upon  the  tongue,  the  limbs,  and  the 
features.  The  soul  seemed  to  press  to  the  eyes  with  such 
anxiety  to  watch  the  exterior  world,  that  you  could  see  it 
plainer  than  ever  before.  The  risible  muscles  seemed  pal« 
sied ;  and  those  which  are  usually  ready  to  furl  the  curtains 
of  the  countenance  in  smiles,  no  longer  obeyed,  or  rather 
were  no  longer  ordered  to  act. 

A  friend,  in  speaking  of  the  idle  questions  of  certain 
thoughtless  persons  from  a  distant  place,  on  this  awful 
subject,  said,  "  When  they  exclaimed  '  how  can  you  sub- 
mit  to  such  privations  of  food  V  I  felt  like  weeping  at  the 
memory  of  the  solemn  lessons  which  had  placed  us  above 
such  frivolous  considerations  as  those  of  taste.  Ah,  you 
know  not  what  you  can  do  till  the  cholera  comes  among 
you.  ♦  Did  you  not  prohibit  the  subject  from  conversation  ?' 
inquired  they.  '  How  would  that  have  been  possibLo !'  replied 
I :  '  besides,  how  heathenish,  how  impious  it  would  have 
been,  so  to  close  our  eyes  against  the  sight  of  the  Almighty's 
judgments — so  to  stifle  the  voice  of  Providence?'" 

"  I  have  made  one  discovery,"  remarked  another  friend, 
"  which  I  intend  to  practise  the  rest  of  my  life.  I  find  I  can 
not  only  live  on  very  simple  food,  entirely  undisguised  by 
spices  and  gravies,  but  that  two-thirds  or  one-half  the  quan- 
tity I  used  to  consider  necessary  for  my  sustenance  is  more 
favourable  to  my  health  and  enjoyment.  How  important  a 
practical  lesson  is  this  which  the  cholera  has  taught  me !   Had 


Ilea 

been 

couli 

braci 

ferin 

It 

our 

back 

over 

treat 

ofter 

the  ( 

We 

we  < 

shal 

absti 

bod] 

thou 

bed, 

Mor 

befo 

imp( 

the 

prep 

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1 

oftl 

thet 

I  a( 

hon 

suci 

sile 

pav 

limi 

ing 

des 

rep 


tK. 


nSCOLLECTIONI  07  TUB  CHOLKRA. 


101 


movements  of  others,  not  to 
ny  own  feelings,  but  the  ex' 

of  others,  were  of  a  much 
mport  than  usual.  I  found 
y  tongue  whenever  I  parted 
urs,  and  a  kind  of  surprise 

not  seen  for  a  day  or  two. 
'as  not  calculated  on  as  en* 
ing  of  that  astonishment  at 
I  experienced  on  his  arrival. 
I  whomsoever  I  spoke,  was 
hat  of  ordinary  times:  for 
ble  feelings  in  every  breast, 

tongue,  the  limbs,  and  the 
press  to  the  eyes  with  such 
orld,  that  you  could  see  it 
risible  muscles  seemed  pal- 
lly  ready  to  furl  the  curtains 
no  longer  obeyed,  or  rather 

i  idle  questions  of  certain 
stant  place,  on  this  awful 
ilaimed  'how  can  you  sub- 
V  I  felt  like  weeping  at  the 
which  had  placed  us  above 
iS  those  of  taste.  Ah,  you 
1  the  cholera  comes  among 
3  subject  from  conversation  ?' 
,  have  been  possibLo !'  replied 
low  impious  it  would  have 
St  the  sight  of  the  Almighty's 
!e  of  Providence?'" 
,"  remarked  another  friend, 
rest  of  my  life.  I  find  I  can 
bod,  entirely  undisguised  by 
)-thirds  or  one-half  the  quan- 
y  for  my  sustenance  is  more 
joyment.  How  important  a 
cholera  has  taught  me !  Had 


I  leimed  and  practised  upon  it  from  my  youth,  I  might  have 
been  a  more  happy,  wealthy,  and  useful  man.  I  wish  I 
could  proclaim,  on  the  house-tops,  the  doctrine  I  now  em- 
brace ;  it  would  save  thousands  from  disease,  poverty,  suf- 
fering, and  even  death." 

It  was  only  because  the  warnings  of  physicians  against 
our  eating  prohibited  articles  was  repeatedly  and  terribly 
backed  by  the  sudden  voice  of  death,  that  we  were  won 
over  to  entire  obedience  to  their  commands,  at  first  often 
treated  as  childish.  Some  slight  indulgence  of  appetite  was 
often  found,  like  the  feeble  wire  pointed  at  a  thunder  cloud, 
the  cause  of  an  instantaneous  and  deadly  bolt  from  heaven. 
We  then  found  that  we  dearly  loved  life :  and  "  What  shall 
we  eat,  and  what  shall  we  drink  ?"  was  changed  for  "  What 
shall  a  man  give  in  exchange  for  his  soul  1"  The  effect  of 
abstinence  was  soon  perceptible  in  the  mind  as  well  as  the 
body.  The  pulse  was  cooler,  the  feelings  more  manageable 
though  more  powerfully  acted  upon,  the  reason  more  undistur- 
bed, and  the  judgment  more  deliberate,  decided,  and  uniform. 
Morning,  noon,  and  midnight  this  world  and  the  next  stood 
before  the  eyes  in  the  same  pioximity  and  comparative 
importance.  Joy  and  grief  sat,  as  it  were,  for  weeks  within 
the  reach  of  our  hands,  on  the  right  and  the  left :  equally 
prepared  to  join  our  company  at  a  moment's  warning,  when- 
ever death  or  life  should  be  decided  on  for  ourselves  or  our 
friends. 

The  weather  was  delightful  during  the  most  fearful  ravages 
of  the  disease.  I  walked  out  early  on  the  Battery,  alone — 
there  was  no  walking  or  doing  any  thing  else  for  pleasure. 
I  admired  the  thick  and  verdant  foliage  ;  and  turned  for 
home  with  the  reflection  that  so  splendid  a  morning  and 
such  verdure  I  had  seldom  or  never  witnessed.  The  long, 
silent,  and  empty  streets,  with  the  grass  starting  through  the 
pavements,  and  the  curb-stones  white  with  a  washing  of 
lime,  presented  a  sad  picture  of  solitude ;  and  a  litter,  hurry- 
ing to  the  nearest  hospital,  showed  that  amid  these  signs  of 
desertion,  the  awful  cholera  was  at  work.  That  day's 
report  was  the  heaviest  of  the  season. 


103 


CHAPTER  XXV. 

Fuhionable  Education— Hudson  River— The  Power  of  Fancy— Cal- 
ikill  Mountaina — Thunder-atorma—Rainbowa— Morning  Scene. 

I  AH  a  traveller,  periodically,  like  all  my  rountrymen ; 
and  deserve  the  name,  in  common  with  almost  all  my  fellow- 
citizens,  of  belonging  to  the  greatest  travelling  nation  in  the 
world.  Of  course,  on  stepping  into  one  of  our  steamboats,  I 
ought  reasonably  to  feel  a  personal  interest  in  the  question, 
•o  important,  though  so  seldom  answered :  "  What  do  we 
travel  for  ?"  I  am  ready  to  confess  that  I  have  changed  my 
own  views  of  this  subject  several  limes  in  the  course  of  my 
life.  1  began  my  travels  with  an  idea  that  it  was  an  im- 
portant object  to  become  familiar  with  the  great  cities  and 
edifices  of  Europe;  the  scenes  of  great  events,  and  the 
peculiarities  as  well  as  characters  of  distinguished  men. 
Such,  I  dare  say,  is  the  impression  with  which  one  of  my 
fellow-travellers,  on  my  right,  lately  set  out  on  a  tour  to 
Europe;  but  I  find  that  while  he  familiarly  describes 
various  localities  and  personages  abroad,  he  despises 
every  object  around  him.  Hence  I  presume  he  regards 
all  on  this  side  of  the  Atlantic  as  I  once  did,  as  beneath  his 
attention.  To  attempt  his  correction  or  cure  I  shall  not : 
for  I  have  once  had  that  foreign  disease,  and  know  how 
alone  it  is  ever  removed.  Let  him  attempt  to  use  his 
knowledge ;  let  him  try  to  apply  his  facts  to  things ;  and 
he  will  find  by  degrees  that  they  will  not  meet.  The  mis- 
direction which  he  has  received  from  his  tutors  and  from  his 
books,  if  they  are  to  be  corrected  at  all,  can  be  corrected 
only  by  experience. 

Happily,  better  opinions  have  come  into  use  within  a  few 
years  on  subjects  of  this  nature.  Our  scenery,  history,  and 
biography  attract  much  more  attention  than  they  once  did. 


Af< 

maf 

coui 

huiT 

will 

oftei 

and 

hum 

8om 

witl 

whc 

and 

the 

ciet; 

extr 

den 

the 

cam 

not 

witl 

itwi 

emf 

wha 

shal 

mai 

less 

inC 

egg 
into 

whi 

inili 

thei 

gre 

ing 

I. 

the 

Nia 

indi 

Qun 


POWER  or  THI  IMAGINATION. 


103 


XXV. 

er — The  Power  of  Fancy— Cal- 
—RHinbowi— Morning  Scene. 

,  like  all  my  pountrymen; 
in  with  almost  all  my  fellow- 
iteet  travelling  nation  in  the 
into  one  of  our  steamboats,  I 
inal  interest  in  the  question, 
n  answered :  "  What  do  we 
ess  that  I  have  changed  my 
il  times  in  the  course  of  my 
an  idea  that  it  was  an  im- 
liar  with  the  great  cities  and 
s  of  great  events,  and  the 
cters  of  distinguished  men. 
sion  with  which  one  of  my 
lately  set  out  on  a  tour  to 
le  he  familiarly  describes 
lagcs  abroad,  he  despises 
ence  I  presume  he  regards 
as  I  once  did,  as  beneath  his 
rection  or  cure  I  shall  not : 
ign  disease,  and  know  how 
.fit  him  attempt  to  use  his 
ply  his  facts  to  things ;  and 
>y  will  not  meet.  The  mis- 
from  his  tutors  and  from  his 
eted  at  ail,  can  be  corrected 

D  come  into  use  within  a  few 
.  Our  scenery,  history,  and 
attention  than  they  once  did. 


A  fashionable  mother  near  me  has  supplied  herself  with  a 
map  of  the  North  lliver,  to  trace  out  some  of  the  finest 
country-seats  upon  the  banks;  and  yonilcr  is  a  youth  in 
huml)le  life,  who  is  de<'ply  absdrhed  in  ri'iulinLf  of  the  events 
which  occurred  here  (hiring  the  Hcvolulinn.  indeed,  I  have 
often  been  forced  to  conleHs  that  ihire  is  more  sound  taste 
and  judgment  displayed,  even  on  literary  mailers,  by  the 
humble,  than  by  the  lofty  in  society.  But  tlierc  are  certainly 
some  points  in  which  we  might  pursue  a  diU'crent  course 
with  reason  and  advantage.  Here  is  a  wealthy  merchant, 
who,  though  he  owes  his  fortune  to  the  habits  of  industry 
and  economy  he  learned  in  a  little  country  town,  and 
the  intelligence  which  he  caught  by  contagion  in  a  so- 
ciety where  it  prevailed,  has  trained  up  his  sons  to  habits  of 
extravagance  and  idleness,  whioii  have  already  begun  to  un- 
dermine it.  A  disrelish  for  every  rational  employment,  and 
the  restraints  they  have  found  in  decent  society,  have  now 
caused  their  separation  from  the  family — family  circle  I  can- 
not call  it ;  for  fashion  draws  up  her  votaries  in  a  half-moon» 
with  all  faces  gazing  on  the  wonder  of  the  day,  be  it  what 
it  will.  The  daughters — with  heads  garnished  without,  and 
empty  as  the  gourd-shells  their  father  used  to  drink  out  of— 
what  will  be  left  of  you  after  the  thunder-storm  of  death 
shall  have  cleared  away,  which  must  in  his  turn  strike  the 
main  pillar  of  your  house !  Heartless,  headless,  and  help- 
less by  education !  Fashion  has  not  only  trained  your  feet 
in  Chinese  shoes,  and  blown  through  your  brains  like  a  bird's 
egg,  but  has  taught  you  crooked  paths,  and  poured  poison 
into  your  hearts.  O  for  a  cup-full  of  that  good  counsel 
which  your  grandmother  used  to  pour  out  like  water ;  O  the 
influence  of  her  example  upon  you  for  an  hour !  Would 
there  not  be  some  Ihtle  hope  of  your  breaking  through  the 
great  system  of  imposture  which  all  things  seem  combin-> 
ing  to  play  before  your  eyes! 

A  youth  from  Scotland,  on  board,  is  hastening  northward, 
the  sooner  to  turn  westward,  and  to  feast  his  taste  at 
Niagara.  F'ancies  concerning  the  giant  of  cataracts  he  haa 
indulged  in  among  his  native  hills ;  and  the  secret  of  his 
curiosity,  as  I  believe  is  oflen  the  case,  appears,  ta  be  ta 


*•% 


194 


nrOBON  RITRR. 


compare  the  reality  with  the  creation  of  his  imai»inalion.     I 
am  prepared  to  find  him  nt  first  diaappointed,  and  afterward 
more  than  gratified  :  for  1  doubt  not  lie  has  heaved  Ossa  on 
Peiion  to  make  the  cataract  rush  from  between  two  moun- 
tains, as  that  is  liie  way  cascades  do  in  Scoihind ;  and  it 
would  be  natural  for  a  stranger  to  look  for  striking  features 
in  the  scenery  of  the  tremendous  verge.     'Ihus  he  will  be 
disappointed,  if  not  disatlccted,  by  the  first  view.     The 
imagination  is  a  most  wonderful  architet^t.     I  remember 
that  the  cathedrals  of  Trance,  when  1  visited  them  in  my 
outh,  appeared  much  too  small :  and  when  I  stepped  out 
of  St;  Peter's,  and  looked  at  the  blue   sky,  1  thought— 
"  Paltry  liide  insect !     Poor  man,  is  this  then  all  you  can 
do  r     A  heathen  writer  says,  that  the  nature  of  the  gods 
was  lamentably  degraded  by  the  sculptors  of  Greece,  be- 
cause the  representations  they  gave  of  ihcm  in  marble  were 
much  less  ethereal  and  pure  than  the  conceptions  of  the  com- 
mon people,  and  declares  that  the  mind  of  an  uneducated  man, 
if  left  to  form  its  own  views,  would  have  created  far  supe- 
rior characters.     This  is  a  fine,  and  I  doubt  not  to  a  degree  a 
just  compliment  to  the  powers  of  the  imagination.    We  might 
find  evidence  of  its  skill  within  us  daily,  if  we  took  the  same 
pleasure  in  studying  its  capacities  and  condition  as  we  do 
those  of  our  pockets. 

Scotland  and  the  Scotch  have  much  to  interest  Americans. 
To  say  nothing  of  our  obligations  to  them  for  poetry  and 
prose,  we  owe  them  for  the  testimony  they  have  borne  to 
the  worth  of  knowledge  and  virtue.  Wherever  we  find  a 
Scotchman,  we  find  a  man  trained  to  principles  of  probity, 
industry,  and  economy,  which  would  enrich  any  land  on 
earth,  and  with  a  respect  for  knowledge  which  would  exalt 
it.  I  speak  here  in  general  terms,  without  regard  to  indi- 
vidual exceptions. 

The  banks  of  tiie  Hudson  are  much  more  delightful  than 
is  commonly  supposed,  even  by  those  who  feel  familiar  with 
the  scenery  of  that  beautiful  stream.  I  had  been  a  frequent 
passenger  in  the  steamboats  between  the  city  and  Albany, 
from  the  early  days  of  steamboat  travelling,  before  I  was 
induced  to   explore  the  banks,  as  I  have  since  done  at 


r.R. 


lion  of  his  imagination.  I 
lisappoiiiled,  and  afterward 
not  iie  lias  heaved  Oaea  on 
h  from  between  two  moun- 
C8  do  in  Scoihind;  and  it 

0  look  for  siriliing  features 
s  verge.     'I'hiis  he  will  be 

by  the  first  view.  The 
ul  iiri'hitert.  I  remember 
tvlirn  1  visited  them  in  my 
I :  and  when  1  stepped  out 
he  blue  sky,  1  thought— 
in,  is  this  then  all  you  can 
lat  the  nature  of  the  gods 
e  sculptors  of  Greece,  be- 
nve  of  ihem  in  marble  were 

1  the  conceptions  of  the  com- 
mind  of  an  uneducated  man, 
uld  have  created  far  supe- 
ind  I  doubt  not  to  a  degree  a 
the  imagination.  We  might 
IS  daily,  if  we  took  the  same 
es  and  condition  as  we  do 

much  to  interest  Americans, 
ons  to  them  for  poetry  and 
istimony  they  have  borne  to 
irtue.  Wherever  we  find  a 
led  to  principles  of  probity, 
would  enrich  any  land  on 
lowledge  which  would  exalt 
•rms,  without  regard  to  indi- 

B  much  more  delightful  than 
those  who  feel  familiar  with 
eam.  I  had  been  a  frequent 
etween  the  city  and  Albany, 
loat  travelling,  before  I  was 
,  as  I  have  since  done  at 


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THE  MOUNTAIN  H0U8B. 


195 


many  intermediate  points.  While  on  my  annual  tour,  I 
therefore  feel  desirous  of  informing  others  who  may  this 
peason  purpose  to  pass  along  this  route,  that  by  allowing 
themselves  a  little  more  time,  they  may  greatly  enhance  the 
enjoyment  and  advantages  of  travelling. 

Much  of  the  course  of  the  Hudson  certainly  offers  beau- 
tiful or  striking  scenes  to  the  eye  of  every  passenger.  But 
it  is  to  be  remarked,  that  the  breadth  of  the  stream  ne- 
cessarily tames  many  features,  and  shades  or  excludes  many 
glimpses  of  grandeur  and  beauty  which  are  fully  disclosed 
only  on  a  nearer  view.  The  picturesque  and  varied  ieatures 
of  the  eastern  shore  of  Haverstraw  Bay,  seen  from  the  large 
steamboats,  which  slide  along  under  the  western  banks, 
aflford  a  striking  case  of  this  kind.  There  the  traveller  may 
find  a  delightful  retreat  for  a  few  days  or  even  weeks,  if  he 
have  so  much  time  at  his  disposal,  and  enjoy  extensive  and 
varying  views  upon  the  broad  expanse  of  water,  from  eleva- 
tions of  two  or  three  hundred  feet. 

I  always  count  more  on  a  person  who  has  visited  such  a 
place  as  Catskili  Mountains  by  design,  than  on  a  common 
every-day  traveller.  Unless  his  ascent  to  that  noble  emi- 
nence has  been  the  effect  of  an  accidental  attachment  to  a 
;>arty  bound  thither,  or  to  the  mere  dictation  of  some  ac- 
quaintance, who  has  been  obliging  enough  to  save  the  lazy 
fellow  the  trouble  of  determining  beforehand  where  he  will 
go,  we  have  reason  to  presume  that  he  has  been  attracted 
by  the  love  of  what  is  truly  fine.  It  is  humiliating  to  the 
conceited  and  the  proud,  to  the  worldly  wise  and  to  the 
eminent — in  money,  to  contemplate  scenes  which  pronounce 
a  kind  of  anathema  upon  the  common  objects  of  devotion. 
If  I  were  rich  and  purse-proud,  or  the  occupant  of  any  office 
or  station  obtained  by  chicanery  or  flattery,  certain  I  am  I 
would  as  willingly  have  my  character  sifted  by  a  jury  of 
twelve  freeholders,  as  stand  and  think  of  my  motives  and 
myself  in  the  presence  of  such  a  scene. 

The  rigorous  climate  of  the  Mountain  House  has  been 
oflen  blamed  for  forbidding  the  approach  of  the  gay  and 
affluent,  who  form  such  a  figure  in  the  annual  crowds  of 
travellers.     But  if  the   scene  were  as  flattering  to  per- 


106 


CATTSKILL  MOUNTAIN*. 


sons  of  that  description  as  their  mirrors  and  their  dependants, 
the  Pine  Orchard  would  be  as  much  resorted  to  as  Saratoga 

Soon  after  my  arrival,  while  I  stood  on  the  projecting 
shelf  of  rock,  which  actually  overhangs  for  some  distance 
the  precipice  just  in  front  of  the  hotel,  and  commands  the 
valley  of  the  Hudson  for  sixty  or  seventy  miles,  with  the 
uplands  beyond,  and  several  summits  in  Connecticut  and 
Massachusetts,  admiring  the  serenity  of  the  fiky,  I  observed 
a  cloud,  shaped  like  a  mushroom,  and  like  it  white  as  snow 
above  and  dark  below,  moving  slowly  down  from  the  upper 
part  of  the  river's  course.     None  other  was  in  sight,  and 
this  was  at  least  a  thousand  feet  below  me.     I  soon  per- 
ceived that  it  was   charged  with  lightning,  and  pourmg 
down   a  plentiful  shower.     Like  a  vast  watering-pot   it 
drenched  the  acres,  the  miles  over  which  it  passed ;  and 
with  a  glass  I  could  imagine  some  of  the  feelings  of  the  in- 
habitants of  the  farm-houses  and  villages  over  which  it  sue- 
cessively  moved,  as  they  were  involved  in  its  shadow,  awed 
by  its  thunder,  and  in  turn  restored  to  the  light  of  the  sun. 
The  habitations  of  men  appear  from  that  eminence  like  the 
shells  and  coats  of  insects ;  and  it  costs  an  exertion  to  real- 
ize that  human  interests  can  be  of  importance  enough  to 
claim  serious  attention  to  those  things  on  which  wealth  or 
subsistence  depends.     Man  has  become  a  microscopic  ob- 
iecf   and  how  paltry  seems  the  least  diminutive  of  his 
race '     And  the  importance  of  a  claim  to  this  or  that  speck 
of  earth  or  water  called  a  home-lot  or  a  fishing  privilege, 
appears  consummately  ridiculous.    Poor  creatures,  why  not 
learn  to  be  content  with  what  is  necessary,  assist  those  wha 
are  in  want,  and  turn  to  subjects  worthy  of  attention  and 
love»    But  it  is  the  vice  of  the  insect  that  he  prefers  the 
ground,  and  refuses  to  spread  the  wings  with  which  he 
might  fly  to  a  loftier  and  purer  region.     "  De  gustibus  non 
disputandum,"  said  the  aeronaut,  whose  pig  squealed  as  he 
rose  in  the  a'.r,  and  tried  to  nose  his  way  through  the  bottom 
of  his  parachute. 

The  singular  cloud  pursued  its  way  slowly  down  over  a 
space,  I  presume,  of  twenty  mUes,  deluging  the  country,  aa 


laf 

not 

cloi 

Dui 

tere 

aim 

beg 

smR 

fielc 

and 

in  h 

the} 

viev 

steri 

cam 

glini 

wrai 

raini 

theii 

belo 

quar 

nabl 

whic 

ofth 

and 

and 

Al 

been 

flash 

hour 

of  b 

light 

by  th 

aeria 

A 

nighr 

queni 

first  I 

the  h 


L 


tVNTAIN*. 

nirrors  and  their  dependants, 
luch  resorted  to  as  Saratoga 

5  I  stood  on  the  projecting 
)verhangs  for  some  distance 
he  hotel,  and  commands  the 
r  or  seventy  miles,  with  the 
summits  in  Connecticut  and 
renity  of  the  sky,  I  observed 
m,  and  like  it  white  as  snow 
slowly  down  from  the  upper 
ne  other  was  in  sight,  and 
feet  below  me.  I  soon  per- 
with  lightning,  and  pouring 
iike  a  vast  watering-pot   it 

over  which  it  passed;  and 
)me  of  the  feelings  of  the  in- 
id  villages  over  which  it  suc- 
involved  in  its  shadow,  awed 
stored  to  the  light  of  the  sun. 
r  from  that  eminence  like  the 
id  it  costs  an  exertion  to  real- 
be  of  importance  enough  to 
se  things  on  which  wealth  or 
is  become  a  microscopic  ob- 

ihe  least  diminutive  of  his 
'  a  claim  to  this  or  that  speck 
)me-Iot  or  a  fishing  privilege, 
ous.  Poor  creatures,  why  not 
is  necessary,  assist  those  who 
)ject8  worthy  of  attention  and 
he  insect  that  he  prefers  the 
id  the  wings  with  which  h© 
T  region.  "  De  gustibus  non 
aut,  whose  pig  squealed  as  he 
»se  his  way  through  the  bottom 

id  its  way  slowly  down  over  a 
niles,  deluging  the  country,  as, 


SVNRMI  SCENE. 


197 


I  afterward  learned.    Where  all  the  water  came  from  I  could 
not  imagine;   neither   could  I  see  whence  came  all  the 
clouds  which  afterward  overspread  the  valley  of  the  Hudson. 
During  a  thunder-storm,  which  threw  its  lightning  and  ut- 
tered its  thunders  over  a  great  space  beneath  us,  we  enjoyed 
almost  uninterrupted   sunshine.     At   length  a  commotion 
began  among  the  clouds  in  the  south,  where  a  cluster  of 
small  and  rounded  eminences,  like  the  hills  of  an  old  corn- 
field, showed  the  Highlands  (now  robbed  of  their  sublimity); 
and  a  wind  blowing  through  that  pass,  rolled  up  the  vapours 
in  heaps,  like  snowballs,  increasing  as  they  proceeded,  till 
they  were  all  flying  northward,  as  if  in  haste  to  escape  from 
view.     Their  forms  and  agitation  reminded  me  of  the  con- 
sternation of  a  panic-struck  army :  and  a  few  small  clouds 
came  pouring  over  the  heights  above  our  heads,  and  min- 
gling with  them,  like  timid  confederates  afraid  to  await  the 
wrath  of  some  unseen  conqueror.    Almost  all  this  time,  two 
rainbows  of  the  brightest  colours  stood  just  before  us,  with 
their  feet  planted  upon  the  green  foliage,  fifty  yards  or  more 
below  the  precipice,  forming  arches  which  approached  three- 
quarters  of  a  circle,  with  the  most  splendid  colours  imagi- 
nable, especially  about  the  key-stone.    The  glittering  aspect 
which  the  landscape  afterward  assumed,  with  the  motions 
of  the  sails  on  the  river,  the  singing  of  the  birds  around  us, 
and  the  colours  of  the  sky  in  a  beautiful  sunset,  left  the  heart 
and  mind  in  a  lofly  tone  to  await  the  solemnities  of  night. 

After  a  period  of  calmness  all  around,  when  the  air  had 
been  undisturbed  for  about  two  hours,  lightning  began  to 
flash,  and  thunder  to  roll  beneath  us ;  and  during  several 
hours,  the  whole  valley  seemed  overflowing  with  the  sounds 
of  battle.  The  evening  passed  amid  the  comforts  and 
light  of  the  great  parlour,  in  a  social  circle,  now  enlarged 
by  the  addition  of  several  friends  unexpectedly  found  in  that 
aerial  retreat. 

A  few  glimpses  at  the  moon  and  the  landscape,  after  mid- 
night, from  the  window  of  my  bedroom,  occupied  my  fre- 
quent waking  moments ;  and  as  soon  as  I  could  perceive  the 
first  blush  of  dawn,  I  dressed,  and  hastened  to  the  roof  of 
the  hotel,  to  watch  the  approach  of  day,  to  a  scene  whose 


198 


CATTSKILL  MOUNTAINS. 


whiteness  made  me  suppose  it  had  been  covered  with  snow. 
There  was  more  subhmity  to  be  feasted  upon  every  moment 
that  passed,  than  some  people  witness  in  their  whole  hves. 
What  a  grovelling  soul  that  must  be  which  prefers  a  morn- 
ing slumber  to  such  a  sight !  When  the  spirit  of  a  man  is 
once  roused,  his  senses  oppose  no  resistance  to  his  wd». 
Let  a  spark  of  glory,  from  such  a  scene,  once  kmdle  his 
heart ;  and  sight,  hearing— his  whole  animal  nature— are 
roused  and  ready  to  do  their  parts.  Let  the  master  but 
appear,  and  the  slaves  will  obey. 

Thp  fresh  and  unbreathed  morning  air,  the  glowing  east, 
the  boundless  scene,  made  me  feel  as  if  released  for  ever 
from  weariness  and  care.    As  the  light  increased  m  the  sky 
to  a  broad  glow,  it  gave  something  of  its  hue  and  bnlhancy 
to  a  sheet  of  whiteness  which  overspread  the  whole  yaUey 
of  the  Hudson,  for  not  less  than  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  in 
width  and  thirty  or  more  in  length.    How  so  heavy  a  snow- 
storm could  have  prevailed  there  in  summer,  I  could  not 
divine ;  but  every  hill  and  wood  was  covered,  and  nothing 
could  be  discovered  below  the  higher  uplands  except  the 
course  of  the  river,  like  a  dark  line  traversing  the  scene 
from  north  to  south.    A  bright  red  glare  at  length  lay  across 
the  whole  vale  between  me  and  the  sun ;  which,  when  he 
rose,  was  increased  almost  to  the  glitter  of  polished  metal. 
The  beams  struck  upon  the  neighbouring  heights,  and  the 
few  remaining  trees  of  the  ancient  pine  orchard  near  me, 
which  once  stood  in  rows,  as  if  planted  by  the  hand  of 
man.     The  birds  chirped,  and  the  cocks  began  to  crow  at 
the  base  of  the  mountain ;  and  peak  after  peak  grew  bright, 
till  it  became  broad  day  to  the  whole  world  around. 

I  was  now  surprised  to  see  something  like  a  white  sheet 
lifted  gradually  up  from  the  opposite  bank  of  the  Hudson, 
showing  a  few  fields,  houses,  roads,  and  wood-lots  beneath 
it;  and  gradually  mile  after  mile  was  thus  slowly  laid  bare 
by  the  removal  of  a  thin  covering  of  dense  white  mist,  which 
was  slowly  rolled  off  clean  by  the  south  wind,  and  revealed 
to  my  eye  many  of  the  hills  and  valleys,  the  farms  and  vd- 
lages,  the  meadows  and  slopes  of  three  counties,  the  abode 
of  some  thousands  of  inhabitants. 


Ml 


lOONTAINS. 

I  had  been  covered  with  snow, 
je  feasted  upon  every  moment 
I  witness  in  their  whole  lives, 
lust  be  which  prefers  a  morn- 
When  the  spirit  of  a  man  is 
se  no  resistance  to  his  will, 
uch  a  scene,  once  kindle  his 
lis  whole  animal  nature — are 
ir  parts.  Let  the  master  but 
bey. 

morning  air,  the  glowing  east, 
e  feel  as  if  released  for  ever 
the  light  increased  in  the  sky 
ithing  of  its  hue  and  brilliancy 
ih  overspread  the  whole  valley 
lian  twelve  or  fifteen  miles  in 
Bngth.  How  so  heavy  a  snow- 
there  in  summer,  I  could  not 
rood  was  covered,  and  nothing 
he  higher  uplands  except  the 
lark  line  traversing  the  scene 
tit  red  glare  at  length  lay  across 
and  the  sun ;  which,  when  he 

0  the  glitter  of  polished  metal, 
neighbouring  heights,  and  the 

ancient  pine  orchard  near  me, 
as  if  planted  by  the  hand  of 
ind  the  cocks  began  to  crow  at 
nd  peak  after  peak  grew  bright, 
he  whole  world  around, 
se  something  like  a  white  sheet 
;  opposite  bank  of  the  Hudson, 
},  roads,  and  wood-lots  beneath 
mile  was  thus  slowly  laid  bare 
ering  of  dense  white  mist,  which 
by  the  south  wind,  and  revealed 

1  and  valleys,  the  farms  and  vil- 
pes  of  three  counties,  the  abode 
itants. 


A  GRAMMAR  SCHOOL. 


199 


All  these  sights,  and  more,  were  offered  to  my  view,  and 
all  their  indescribable  impressions  to  my  mind,  in  the  short 
space  of  twenty  hours,  which  limited  my  visit.  A  ride  of 
two  miles  took  us  to  the  lakes  and  the  cascades,  and  gave 
us  a  sight  down  the  Clove, — a  deep  and  declining  mountain- 
pass  through  which  the  stream  that  flowed  beside  us  pur- 
sues its  headlong  way,  after  its  two  leaps  of  175  and  85  feet. 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 

Method  and  Eflecta  of  labour-saving  in  teaching  Latin — A  Frontiers* 
man — Early  History — Conversations  on  Health  and  Dress. 

What  were  the  real,  bona  fide  effects  of  my  grammar-school 
education  T  What  were  the  results  of  my  study  of  Virgil  T 
to  confine  the  question  to  one  point  Truly,  truly,  it  is 
difficult  to  answer.  To  what  extent  my  mind  was  increased 
in  vigour  or  capacity  by  it,  I  cannot  tell :  perhaps  as  much 
as  might  be  wished — for  a  giant  is  not  sensible  of  his  own 
growth.  I  am  sure,  however,  that  I  was  often  filled  with 
disgust  at  a  language  which  I  ought  to  have  been  made  to 
love ;  viewed  with  jealousy  and  resentment  my  teacher  and 
fellow-studente ;  had  paroxysms  of  misanthropy  and  of  dis- 
gust towards  learning ;  and  formed  many  erroneous  opinions 
about  the  objects  and  enjoyments  of  life ;  and  often  vacil- 
lated widely  in  my  views  of  virtue  and  vice. 

Some  very  painful  retrospects  have  often  occupied  my 
mind  since  I  spent  an  hour  in  a  Latin  school,  some  time  ago, 
and  witnessed  a  number  of  boys  engaged  in  my  former  em- 
ployments ;  and  to-day  something  happened,  or  was  men- 
tioned in  conversation,  which  has  recalled  them.  My  ap- 
parition, in  the  seat  of  an  examiner,  at  the  school  of  which  I 
speak,  seemed  to  strike  a  chill  through  the  warm  and  in- 
genuous hearts  of  the  pupils ;  ah !  how  lamentably  abused 
by  undeserved  harshness ;  how  intoxicated  and  debased  by 


1 


SCO 


HUDSON  RIVER. 


turns  with  that  fatal  spur,  emulation;  that  alcohol  of  the 
3el^^  that  labour-saving  instrument  to  which  the  .gnorant 
and  he  indolent  teacher  ever  resorts,  because  it  easily  ex- 
dtes  tharatlention  which  he  ought  .o  produce  by  displaying 
the  attractions  and  the  practical  use  of  learnmg. 

One  interesting  vouih,  at  the  head  of  his  class,  mtox.cated 
^ith  prle,  and  desperately  fearing  a  fall  "from  h.s  h.gh 
Is  17'  shewed  extreme  agi.atio.,  in  his  eye,  h.s  cheek,  and 
S  voice ;  and  experienced  emotions  more  exhaustmg  to 
is  mind,    have  no  doubt,  than  the  labour  of  mastering  three 
Ses  ons.     Another,  smiling  with  the  consc.ousness  o 
a  task  well  performed,  and  the  anticipation  of  a  successful 
JecUatir,  faUed  through  an  amiable  diffidence  to  retain  his 
presence  o  mind;  and  from  one  accidental  error  fell  into  a 
?abTrS  f  om  which  he  could  not  recover  his  way,  and 
SnEg  into  his  -eat,  with  swelling  veins,  sobbed  and  wep 
Si  th?close  of  the  exercise.     A  third,  after  passing  unliurt 
Ac  o^ell  of  construing  and  parsing   was  treated  with  a 
contemptuous  expiession  by  the  t^-her  for  a  pal  ly /auU 
in  not  discriminating  between  "the  use  of  the  poets    ar^d 
"Dosition"  in  giving  the  rules  for  scannmg;  and  I  saw  his 
evrgenL,  an  irrifable  temper,  which  ought  to  have  been 
sv  tema  "cally  pacified  by  a  judicious  treatment,  rise  and 
dreht  feelings  almost  lo  desperation.    This  was  as  much 
asTcould  bear,  and  I  was  glad  to  retreat  from  such  an  in- 
tellectual  and  moral  inquisition.  ...  l^ 

Ashort  interview  with  one  of  those  active  beings  who 
have  shared  in  the  excitement  and  labours  of  our  new  and 
distant  setllemenls,  or  beat  the  bush  m  advance  of  civili- 
an, conveys  more  lively  ideas  of  what  is  actually  going 
on  there,  than  reading  all  the  essays  and  stat.sucs  m  the 
world      Now  and  then  we  meet  a  stray  one  in  this  part  ol 
Te  country.     He  looks  l.ke  a  wild  bird  in  an  av.ary,  or 
amiS  a  yard  of  domestic  lawls:  so  regular  and  orderly  and 
stZid  do  we  all  feel  in  his  pro.ence.     Two  or  three  such 
characters  I  have  fallen  in  with;  but  it  is  impossible  to  get 
a  regular  narration  out  of  them  .>f  greater  length  than  a  few 
minutes.     They  have  brou^^ht  their  restless  aclivuy  along 
with  them,  and  seem  physically  unable  to  be  quiet.     One 


on 

boa 

kne 
t 

mo: 
low 
setl 
eve 
a  s 
bar 
viti 
up, 
wo 
cir( 
ifl 
his 
ev< 
pel 

lOM 

th( 
an; 

th< 
inf 
pri 
sh< 
II 
Oj 
ye 

g" 
wl 

cu 

to 

fel 

yf 

dc 
at 

CO 


RIVER. 

lulation;  that  alcohol  of  the 
;riiment  to  which  the  ignorant 
resorts,  because  it  easily  ex- 
dght  to  produce  by  displaying 
il  use  of  learning. 
•  head  of  his  class,  intoxicated 
earing  a  fall  "  from  his  high 
tioii  in  his  eye,  his  cheek,  and 
motions  more  exhausting  to 
I  the  labour  of  mastering  three 
ng  with  the  consciousness  of 
e  anticipation  of  a  successful 
imiable  diffidence  to  retain  his 
one  accidental  error  fell  into  a 
lid  not  recover  his  way,  and 
elling  veins,  sobbed  and  wept 
A  third,  after  passing  unhurt 
I  parsing,  was  treated  with  a 
the  teacher  for  a  paltry  fault 
;n  "  the  use  of  the  poets"  and 
s  for  scanning ;  and  I  saw  his 
per,  which  ought  to  have  been 
.  judicious  treatment,  rise  and 
iesperation.    This  was  as  much 
lad  to  retreat  from  such  an  in- 

on. 

ne  of  those  active  beings  who 
nt  and  labours  of  our  new  and 
the  bush  in  advance  of  civili- 
ideas  of  what  is  actually  going 
he  essays  and  statistics  in  the 
neat  a  stray  one  in  this  part  of 
,e  a  wild  bird  in  an  aviary,  or 
vis :  so  regular  and  ordnily  and 
presence.     Two  or  three  such 
with ;  but  it  is  impossible  to  get 
lem  »)f  greater  length  than  a  few 
jrht  their  restless  activity  along 
ically  unable  to  be  quiet.     One 


A  BACKWOODSMAN. 


201 


of  them  attracted  my  attention  a«  soon  as  I  saw  him  in  the 
boat.  He  had  been  everywhere — why,  or  how,  I  never 
knew. 

"  Was  you  ever  in  St.  Louis  ?  New-Orleans  ?" — "  Ah, 
mon  ami !"—"  At  Detroit?"—"  There's  a  rough  set  of  fel- 
lows. I  was  one  of  the  first  on  the  Upper  Huron.  It's  getting 
settled  now  fast  with  people  from  New- York."— "  Have  you 
ever  been  along  to  the  north  of  Lake  Superior  1"  He  was 
a  short  man,  in  a  bluejacket,  with  both  hands  on  a  double- 
barrelled  rifle,  and  a  powder-horn  and  shot-bag  next  his 
vitals.  The  outer  rim  of  his  eyelid  was  perpetually  drawn 
up,  lest  it  should  intercept  any  of  the  view ;  for  a  good 
woodman's  sight,  I  believe,  sweeps  three-quarters  of  a 
circle  without  moving  the  head.  His  feet  were  restless,  as 
if  he  had  been  used  to  long  grass  and  snakes ;  and  although 
his  age  was  probably  fifty,  every  nerve  was  full  of  activity, 
every  limb  of  vigour,  and  every  mo'ion  and  word  of  inde- 
pendence and  fearlessness. 

"  Out  on  the  Mississippi  they  are  an  active  set  of  fel- 
lows," said  he ;  "  they  can  build  steamboats  and  launch 
them,  and  run  them,  and  blow  them  up  about  as  quick  as 
any  other  people.     '  Shoal  a-head !'  you'll  hear  'em  sing  out 

•  How  do  you  know?' — '  Why,  she  ripples.'—'  Well,  sit  on 

the  safety-valve,  and  jump  her  over !'  That's  pleasant  sail- 
ing enough,  to  be  sure,  where  you  find  the  watermen  enter- 
prising so ;  but  it's  cruel  to  see  the  deer  come  down  to  the 
shore  to  drink,  and  not  stop  to  go  after  them  with  your  rifle. 
I  like  the  ground,  I  tell  you.  First  I  began  along  Lake 
Ontario.  There's  some  woods  there,  but  not  much  game ; 
yet  I  thought  it  was  fine  fun  to  be  all  alone  with  my  old 
gun.  It  was  not  very  long,  though,  before  I  was  off":  and 
where  do  you  think  I  was  next?  Why,  after  being  at  Cin- 
cinnati and  St.  Louis  about  one  thing  and  another,  I  got  out 
to  Green  Bay,  among  the  Indians.  There's  a  set  of  honest 
fellows  for  you.  You  needn't  have  anybody  to  go  with 
you  and  say  this  is  Mr.  such  a  man.  All  you've  got  to 
do  is,  if  you  come  across  a  bear  or  a  deer,  just  shoot  them, 
and  leave  them  on  the  ground ;  and  the  first  wigwam  you 
come  to,  say,  '  Friend,  I've  come  among  you  for  a  little 

18 


i 


202 


HUDSON  RIVKR. 


1 


while  to  stay;  I  Jon't  want  any  thing  but  just  to  shoot  my 
rifle  once  in  a  while— There's  a  bear  or  a  deer  just  back 
in  the  woods,  which  any  of  you  can  have  if  you  want  it.  i 
tell  you  what,  if  they  won't  treat  you  like  the  biggest  rnan . 
And  you  needn't  do  any  more  than  this:  the  story  will  go 
before  you ;  and  wherever  you  come  they  know  you ;  and 
how  you  can  shoot  a  bear,  or  a  deer,  as  the  case  may  be. 
Well,  then  I  thought  I  would  go  where  there  wasnt  so 
much  civilization ;  for  I  wanted  to  see  more  of  the  Indians  ; 
and  I've  been  through  that  country  all  along  a  good  piece 
north  Qf  Lake  Superior."  .     ,     ,.  .  ..a^u 

•»Do  you  know  that  district  1"  inquired  a  listener.      Ask 
inv  Bun,"  repUed  the  speaker.     "  I  was  there  six  weeks,  all 
alone,  among  as  good  game  as  ever  fell  under  a  muzzle. 
That's  the  life :  get  two  or  three  days'  provisions  of  venison 
or  bear's  meat  on  your  back,  shot-bag  full,  powder-horn  full ; 
and  then,  if  you  meet  an  Indian,  or  a  white  man,  or  any 
thing,  you  can  befriend  them.    But  you  want  to  know  some- 
thing  of  folks  before  you  can  trust  them.    The  Green  Bay 
Indians,— I  should  feel  safe  among  them  to  lie  right  down 
on  the  ground,  in  the  woods,  between  two,  and  sleep  all 
night.     Why,  a  man  would  be  a  great  deal  safer  so  than  he 
would  be  in  Broadway,  in  New-York,  with  fifty  dollars  m 
his  pocket,  at  eleven  o'clock  at  night. 

»  They  are  good  fellows  ;  but  I'm  ready  to  shoot  with  any 
of  them  -.—walking,  running,  swimming,  diving,  flying,  any 
way.  I've  shot  with  Egg  Harbour  fellows  on  the  wing,  and 
I'll  try  with  an  Indian  any  way  he  likes,  till  they  come  to  a 
Bitting  mark  and  a  dead  rest ;  and  then  I've  done  with  him. 

After  the  capture  of  the  forts  on  the  highlands  by  the 
British,  in  1777,  and  breaking  the  chain  stretched  across 
the  Hudson,  at  West  Point,  they  sailed  up ;  and,  as  I  have 
been  informed,  burnt  a  brig  in  Saugerlies  Creek.  They 
had  a  man  on  board,  of  Dutch  extraction,  who  pointed  out 
the  dwellings  of  persons  particularly  obnoxious  to  the 
enemy.  On  passing  the  house  where  Washington  had  been 
quartered,  they  fired  a  shot  tlirough  the  roof.  They  burnt 
a  brig,  loaded  >vilh  tea,  in  Saugerlies  Creek,  and  Mr,  Liv- 
ingston's  house  opposite  and  several  others. 


sc 
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in 
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Sti 

bl 
w 

re 

tt 

P< 
ol 

til 

w 

T 

Pi 
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IVKR. 

y  thing  but  just  to  shoot  my 
a  bear  or  a  deer  just  back 
can  have  if  you  want  it.'  I 
It  you  like  the  biggest  man ! 
than  this :  the  story  will  go 
,  come  they  know  you ;  and 
a  deer,  as  the  case  may  be. 
[  go  where  there  wasn't  so 
1  to  see  more  of  the  Indians  ; 
intry  all  along  a  good  piece 

r  inquired  a  listener.    "Ask 

» I  was  there  six  weeks,  all 
8  ever  fell  under  a  muzzle, 
ee  days'  provisions  of  venison 
lot-bag  full,  powder-horn  full ; 
dian,  or  a  while  man,  or  any 
But  you  want  to  know  some- 
trust  them.  The  Green  Bay 
mong  them  to  lie  right  down 
I,  between  two,  and  sleep  all 

a  great  deal  safer  so  than  he 
ew-York,  with  fifty  dollars  in 
It  night, 
ut  I'm  ready  to  shoot  with  any 

swimming,  diving,  flying,  any 
irbour  fellows  on  the  wing,  and 
ly  he  likes,  till  they  come  to  a 

and  then  I've  done  with  him." 
forts  on  the  highlands  by  the 
ng  the  chain  stretched  across 
they  sailed  up ;  and,  as  I  have 

in  Saugerlies  Creek.  They 
ch  extraction,  who  pointed  out 
particularly  obnoxious  to  the 
se  where  Washington  had  been 
tlirough  the  roof.  They  burnt 
Saugerties  Creek,  and  Mr.  Liv- 
,  several  others. 


FASHIONABLE  ILt  HEALTH. 


203 


Saugerties,  and  the  banks  of  the  creek  behind  it,  were 
settled  by  French  Huguenots,  who  emigrated,  after  a  long 
residence  in  Holland,  bringing  many  Dutch  connexions 
and  the  Dutch  language  witli  them,  but  a  good  deal  of 
intolligence.  Another  settlement  of  the  same  kind  was 
made  below,  at  the  Strand,  one  of  the  landings  of  King- 
ston ;  after  which  at  the  village  of  Kingston  itself,  and  Mar- 
bletown.  They  chose  the  best  soil.  A  German  settlement 
was  made  west  of  the  Catskill  Mountains,.  At  Tappan  was  a 
real  Dutch  settlement;  and  Newburgh  was  a  colony  of  Irish. 
"Intelligence,"  regretted  a  fellow-passenger,  who  spoke  from 
personal  knowledge,  "is  at  a  low  ebb.  The  intelligence 
of  the  original  French  faded  away  amid  their  scattered  set- 
tlements and  the  dangers  and  trials  of  their  situation,  along 
with  the  language.  The  schools  have  been  few  and  poor. 
The  academy,  founded  at  Newburgh  many  years  ago,  has 
produced  considerable  eflects.  Governor  Clinton  there  re- 
ceived an  important  part  of  his  education,  as  well  as  a  num- 
ber of  other  gentlemen  distinguished  in  the  learned  profes- 
sions. He  probably  learned  here,  from  observation,  the  im- 
portance of  public  education,  of  which  he  became  a  most 
efficient  advocate." 

"  See  how  much  better  I  feel  already,"  said  a  young  lady 
to  her  father,  as  they  sat  down  at  breakfast ;  "  I  feel  quite 
hungiy,  and  have  no  doubt  that  by  the  time  I  have  been  at 
the  Springs  a  week  or  two,  if  I  have  exercise  enough,  I 
shall  have  strength  sufficient  to  set  off  for  Niagara." — 
"  Well,"  replied  tlie  father,  who  seemed  to  be  absorbed  ill 
thoughts  of  his  business,  which  he  had  reluctantly  left  at  the 
city,  as  it  would  appear,  to  attend  his  daughter  on  a  tour 
for  pleasure,  under  the  pretext  of  health, — "  Well,  if  you 
get  cured  of  your  dispepsia,  or  whatever  h  is,  it's  all  I  want. 
I  am  hungry,  too :  I  believe  this  air  is  good  for  us  both." 
Neither  of  the  two  had  sagacity  enough  to  perceive,  that 
rising  two  hours  earlier  than  usual,  with  the  excitement  and 
exercise  they  had  experienced,  were  the  chief  causes  of  the 
improvement  of  their  appetites  and  the  cheerfulness  of  their 
feelings ;  and  that  a  more  reasonable  system  of  life  at  home 
would  have  had  nearly  the  same  effect  on  them  every  day. 


! 


204 


HtDSON  RIVER. 


1 


And  thii  is  the  simple  truth  in  respect  to  a  large  majority  of 
those  who  travel  lor  their  health  every  season.  They  might 
avoid  the  symptoms  from  which  they  suffer,  by  following  a 
few  of  those  simple  rules  of  nature  from  which  we  never 
can  deviate  with  impunity ;  or  if  they  have  become  enfee- 
bled or  diseased  by  conformity  to  the  examples  of  fashion- 
able life,  might  thus  soon  and  effectually  recover  a  sound 
state  of  health.  No  apology  can  be  necessary  for  my 
quoting  here  the  adage  so  worn  out  by  frequent  repetitions 
in  my  youthful  ears,  because  now  it  is  entirely  obsolete 
among  many  circles,  and  will  sound  like  a  perfect  novelty. 

"  EBrly  to  bed  nnd  early  to  rise. 
Will  make  you  healthy,  wealthy,  and  wue. 

Retire  and  rise  early;  aim  low  in  matters  of  show;  and 
in  things  of  solid  worth  let  none  shoot  at  a  higher  mark  than 
you.  Plan  something  useful  every  day ;  do  something  good 
every  hour,  and  love  something  good  every  moment.  Re- 
ject the  foolish  conceit,  that  any  thing  like  useful  labour  can 
be  dishonourable.  Introduce  your  hands  and  feet  to  such 
services  as  they  were  designed  for;  while  you  occupy  your 
mind  with  the  contemplation  of  subjects  worthy  of  its  na- 
ture, and  your  heart  with  those  pure  affections  on  which 

alone  it  can  thrive.  .,,.,,.     n. 

How  I  pitied  this  poor,  puny,  spoded  chdd !  Every  one, 
even  the  plainest  of  these  doctrines,  had  been  effectually 
shut  out  from  her  education.  Thousands  had  been  expended 
on  teachers,  books,  and  instruments ;  but  it  seemed  as  if  not 
a  pennyworth  of  good  discipline  or  instruction  had  reached 
her  head  or  her  heart. 

Amid  a  lively  conversation  on  various  topics,  of  no  par- 
ticular interest,  I  heard  one  remark  which  startled  me  :— 
"  New-York,"  said  a  female  voice,  "  is  a  city  of  the  greatest 
taste  in  America."  The  speaker  was  a  milliner,  who  was 
on  her  return  to  a  country-town,  with  all  the  latest  fashions, 
and  I  know  not  how  many  hundreds  of  dollars  worth  of 
silks,  velvets,  plumes,  laces,  plush,  ribands,  and  straw.  She 
had  been  requested,  as  she  declared,  by  several  of  the  ladies 


IIVER. 

respect  to  a  large  majority  of 
W  every  season.  They  might 
li  they  suffer,  by  following  a 
nature  from  which  we  never 
r  if  they  have  become  enfee- 
to  the  examples  of  fashion- 
effectually  recover  a  sound 
r  can  be  necessary  for  my 
ni  out  by  frequent  repetitions 
I  now  it  is  entirely  obsolete 
sound  like  a  perfect  novelty. 

r  to  riie, 

y,  wealthy,  and  wise." 

low  in  matters  of  show ;  and 
le  shoot  at  a  higher  mark  than 
irery  day ;  do  something  good 
ng  good  every  moment.  Re- 
ly  thing  like  useful  labour  can 
your  hands  and  feet  to  such 
d  for ;  while  you  occupy  your 
of  subjects  worthy  of  its  na- 
)se  pure  affections  on  which 

y,  spoiled  child !  Every  one, 
octrines,  had  been  effectually 
Thousands  had  been  expended 
ments ;  but  it  seemed  as  if  not 
ine  or  instruction  had  reached 

on  various  topics,  of  no  par- 
remark  which  startled  me: — 
■oice,  "  is  a  city  of  the  greatest 
aker  was  a  milliner,  who  was 
irn,  with  all  the  latest  fashions, 
hundreds  of  dollars  worth  of 
dush,  ribands,  and  straw.  She 
sclared,  by  several  of  the  ladies 


A  TALKINO  MILMNER. 


205 


of  Iter  neighbourhood,  to  make  inquiries  about  the  materials, 
form,  and  texture  of  l>onnets,  hats,  handkerchirfs,  aiuJ  even 
dresses  and  shoes.  As  an  aiicidentai  want  of  sfiine  of  the 
refinements  of  speech  migiit  have  rendered  her  iniimrtancc 
among  her  own  society  sdmewhat  doubtful,  sho  took  tho 
pains  to  mention  names,  charai-icrs,  and  connexions,  with 
the  exact  nature  of  the  commissions  nhv  bore,  and  a  viiricty 
of  interesting  matter  relating  to  ways  and  means  by  whirli 
she  had  been  enabled  to  accompliMii  them.  I  might  have 
wondered,  1  suppose,  why  so  many  Sfdale,  judicious,  (lis. 
interested,  and  even  literary  ladies  could  feel  so  mucli  anx- 
iety to  possess  such  objects  ;  or  to  obtain  this  or  that  isolated 
fact  or  opinion  from  New- York  milliners;  but  I  was  aston- 
ished to  learn,  that  the  rapid  narrator  had  met  so  many  per- 
sons like  herself  in  the  city,  bound  on  similar  errands,  and 
loaded  with  just  such  commissions,  from  towns  and  villages 
cast,  west,  north,  and  south.  •'  The  improvements  in  naviga- 
tion," as  a  lady  remarked,  *•  were  of  great  consequence  ;  for, 
instead  of  being,  as  formerly,  two  or  three  months  behind- 
hand in  the  fashions,  we  may  now  wear  such  hats  in  June 
as  the  Parisians  have  in  May;  and  so  be  only  about  four 
or  five  weeks  behind  them  all  the  year."  A  very  interesting 
publication,  also,  had  been  commenced  some  time  since  in 
New- York,  in  French  and  English,  expressly  for  the  diffu- 
sion of  intelligence  in  relation  to  dress ;  each  number  of 
which  contains  several  fine-coloured  engravings  of  costumes. 
So  meritorious  a  work  as  this,  and  one,  if  possible,  in  ad- 
vance of  the  spirit  of  the  age,  would,  no  doubt,  meet  abun- 
dant support ;  and  was  worthy  of  the  broken-down  French 
fancier  who  was  to  be  the  editor. 

Here,  thoiiprht  I,  us  1  turned  uway  iVoni  tlio  hrurinff  of 
such  intellectual  conversation,  here  is  bdiayed  one  of  tho 
co^-wht't'ls  orsociety.  Here  is  one  ot'lliose  gruat  counteract- 
in!;  iiilhiciices  which  cause  so  mucii  waste  of  power  in  our 
machine.  Whoever  has  turned  a  crank,  or  juilled  or  pushed, 
to  aitl  the  advance  of  iiul.>lic  intelli;j;enee,  ir.orala,  or  liapi)i« 
ness,  and  w<jn(!cr(Hl  why  iiis  exertions  proved  of  so  little 
use,  let  him  jnsl  look  here.  Here  is  euouirh  to  explain 
some  part  of  his  dillieulty.     Minds  and  hearts  on  which  he 

19* 


206 


HVDSOM  RIVER. 


\ 


has  wished  to  make  impressions,  he  may  now  see,  were 
otherwise  employed;  money,  a  little  of  which  was  neces- 
sary  to  the  accomplishment,  was  runnmg  out  m  floods 
another  way;  while  principles  of  social  harmony,  dismter- 
estedness,  and  benevolence,  could  not  easily  be  cultivated, 
or  even  planted  on  ground  occupied  by  those  of  an  opposite 
nature.  Here  you  will  find  one  reason  why  incomes  are 
not  always  equal  to  expenditures;  why  libraries  are  so 
small;  the  fireside  so  much  deserted;  schools  so  few  and 
so  poor;  frivolity  so  much  tolerated;  health,  m  a  thousand 
cases,  unnecessarily  exposed  and  life  sacrificed. 

But  do  not  let  me  drone  on  so,  while  this  is  a  note  of  the 
bagpipe  which  the  ladies  will  not  endure.     The  wives  and 
daughters  of  fellow-citizens,  of  all  classes,  will  unite,  if  in 
nothing  else,  in  putting  down  him  who  assails  their  ears 
with  such  unwelcome  sounds.     I  therefore  must  cease; 
otherwise  they  would  have  no  longer  peace  of  conscience  m 
refusing  dollar  and  half  dollar  contributions  for  the  comfort 
of  the  poor,  the  instruction  of  the  ignorant,  tne  care  of  the 
aged,  insane,  or  infirm;  while  they  continue  yearly  to  be- 
stow ten  or  an  hundred  times  the  amount  on  such  wares  of 
their  milliners  and  mantua-makers  as  they  know  to  be  quite 
unnecessary  for  comfort,  convenience,  and  every  thing,  ex< 
^ept — fashion. 


IIVER. 


207 


ms,  he  may  now  see,  were 
a  little  of  which  was  neces- 

was  running  out  in  floods 

of  social  harmony,  disinter- 
uld  not  easily  be  cultivated, 
upied  by  those  of  an  opposite 
one  reason  why  incomes  are 
tures;  why  libraries  are  so 
deserted ;  schools  so  few  and 
erated ;  health,  in  a  thousand 
and  life  sacrificed. 

so,  while  this  is  a  note  of  the 
,  not  endure.  The  wives  and 
»f  all  classes,  will  unite,  if  in 
n  him  who  assails  their  ears 
Is.     I  therefore  must  cease; 

longer  peace  of  conscience  in 
ir  contributions  for  the  comfort 
'  the  ignorant,  tne  care  of  the 
lie  they  continue  yearly  to  be- 
1  the  amount  on  such  wares  of 
akers  as  they  know  to  be  quite 
ivenience,  and  every  thing,  ex- 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 

The  Privileges  of  American  Citizens  in  Trial  by  Jury — Battle-ground 
of  Saratoga — Former  State  of  Ballston  Springs — Leisure  Time— - 
The  Beauties  of  the  German  Language — A  Foreign  Spirit  in 
America — Value  of  our  own  Tongue. 

Seeing  a  court-house,  certain  old  trains  of  thought 
were  revived  by  the  sight  of  judges  on  the  bench,  law- 
yers, witnesses,  &c.  There  is  much  that  is  farcical  in 
the  details  of  our  democratic  system,  when  we  oome  to  trace 
out  its  familiar  application  to  the  every-day  business  of  life. 
Why  should  we  not  sometimes  enjoy  the  pleasure  of  laugh- 
ing at  them,  at  least  until  it  can  be  proved  that  the  risibles 
of  man  were  constructed  for  no  good  use  ?  We  must  laugh, 
— that  is  a  settled  thing ;  at  any  rate  most  of  us  :  and  of 
course  the  only  questions  now  to  be  settled  must  be,  when, 
where,  and  at  what  shall  we  and  shall  we  not  laugh.  Not- 
withstanding the  sanctity  of  a  court,  I  have  felt  more  than 
once  that  the  jury-box  was  one  of  the  fittest  places ;  and  as 
for  the  jury-room,  that  is  a  place  for  alternate  smiles  and 
tears.  "  All  this,"  as  the  language  of  counsel  is, "  I  solemnly 
believe,  and  pledge  myself  to  prove  to  the  satisfaction  of 
this  intelligent  jury." 

I  was  once,  while  a  citizen  of  New- York,  called  from 
active  business  to  sit  on  a  petit-jury  of  the  Court  of  Sessions, 
some  time  in  the  month  of  December,  and  made  one  of  twelve 
men  selected  alphabetically  from  the  Directory.  We  were 
of  twelve  different  sizes,  dresses,  and  colours,  and  in  every 
possible  particular,  except  the  accidental  one  of  having  simi- 
lar initial  letters  to  our  surnames,  utterly  impossible  to  be 
matched.  Hudibras's  various  couplets  of  doggrel,  relating 
to  such  scenes,  began  to  course  through  my  head,  and  over- 
came some  of  the  disgust  which  would  oti^  >rwise  have  over- 
whelmed me  at  the  thoughts  of  what  a  day  was  before  me. 


208 


PRiriLEOES  OF  JURORS. 


•Gentlemen  of  the  jury!'     The  other  eleven  rose,  and  I 
for  an  instant  kept  my  seat.    If  they  were  gentlemen,  I  cer- 
tainly was  not.     An  old  beagle  of  an  usurer  was  brought 
up,  from  one  of  the  dark  retreats  of  misery,  to  prosecute  a 
pale  and  ragged  man  for  the  recovery  of  a  debt.    The  coun- 
sel for  the  defence  pleaded  that  the  note  was  tamted  with 
usury,  and  brought  up  a  witness  to  prove  it.   He  swore  that 
the  plaintiff's  wife  received  an  unlawful  mterest  for  the 
money  in  her  husband's  presence,  and  that  this  was  Uie 
common  manner  in  which  they  conducted  business.     We 
were  filled  willi  indignation  ;  and  to  express  our  reprobation 
of  sucii  an  enormity,  found  a  verdict  for  defendant  without 
leavin?  our  seats.     We  had  not  learned  a  lesson  which  I 
was  afterward  taugiit  in  an  inferior  tribunal;  but  after  re- 
ceiving  a  shilling  a  man,  sighed  and  prepared  to  try  a  long 
case  which  had  been  long  in  court,  and  had  a  long  tail  to  it. 
A  question  of  the  genuineness  of  certain  signatures  occu- 
pied us  a  time  ;  during  which  I  was  struck  with  two  kinds 
of  sagacity;  that  of  the  bank  clerks  and  others  m  judging 
of  handwriting,  and  that  of  counsel  in  leadmg  them  to  nul- 
lify their  own  testimony  in  the  eye  of  a  juryman.     Several 
of  the  moBt  acute  of  the  former  had  previously  exammed 
about  a  dozen  specimens,  and  fixed  on  a  portion  of  them  as 
genuine.     Several  of  these  had  now  been  withdrawn,  and 
decent  imitations  put  in  their  place.     The  witnesses,  m- 
cautiously  perhaps,  by  turns,  selected  what  each  supposed 
to  be  genuine,  while  the  counsel  kept  careful  notes  of  their 
different  opinions,  distinguishing  the  specimens  by  private 
marks.     The  confused  result,  when  read  to  us,  overthrew 
the  whole  force  of  their  testimony,  and  in  my  mmd  human 
iufalUbility  received  a  blow  from  which  it  has  never  recov- 
cred     This  part  of  the  trial  was  serious,  and  that  on  several 
accounts ;  but  when  we  withdrew  to  the  jury-room,  and 
were  locked  up  together  to  determine  on  damages,  I  was 
compelled  to  laugh  in  tUt:  midst  of  my  vexalion.     Among 
twelve  men  there  were  immediately  p"^'^'"-  •"  ^^  '"^  "7"® 
opinion.     Of  the  rest,   one  had  slept  througii  the  whole 
trial,  and  the  other  knew  no  difierence  between  the  coun- 
sel's peroration  and  the  judge's  charge.   It  was  even  doubt- 


F  JURORS. 

le  other  eleven  rose,  and  I 
they  were  gentlemen,  I  cer- 
3  of  an  usurer  was  brought 
Its  of  misery,  to  prosecute  a 
jovery  of  a  debt.    The  coun- 
it  the  note  was  tainted  with 
s  to  prove  it.   He  swore  that 
n  unlawful  interest  for  the 
;nce,  and  that  this  was  the 
y  conducted  business.     We 
tid  to  express  our  reprobation 
verdict  for  defendant  without 
not  learned  a  lesson  which  I 
ferior  tribunal;  but  after  re- 
id  and  prepared  to  try  a  long 
ourt,  and  had  a  long  tail  to  it. 
3S  of  certain  signatures  occu- 
I  was  struck  with  two  kinds 

clerks  and  others  in  judging 
)unsel  in  leading  them  to  nul- 
j  eye  of  a  juryman.  Several 
ner  had  previously  examined 

fixed  on  a  portion  of  them  as 
ad  now  been  withdrawn,  and 
r  place.  The  witnesses,  in- 
selected  what  each  supposed 
sel  kept  careful  notes  of  their 
ing  the  specimens  by  private 
,  when  read  to  us,  overthrew 
mony,  and  in  my  mind  human 
om  which  it  has  never  recov- 
as  serious,  and  that  on  several 
hdrew  to  the  jury-room,  and 
determine  on  damages,  I  was 
nidbt  of  my  voxalion.  Among 
.liateiy  provfi  to  be  ton  of  one 
had  slept  througii  the  whole 

difierence  between  the  c.oun- 
e's  charge.   It  was  even  doubt- 


SARATOOA  BATTLE-OROUND. 


209 


fill  whether  he  had  yet  found  out  that  we  were  on  '  an  action 
of  trover:'  though  it  had  been  most  solemnly  repeated  so  often 
expressly  for  our  edification.  Both  of  them  found  a  fine  fire 
of  hard  coal  burning,  and  said,  in  conscience,  give  a  ver- 
dict for  plaintiflf.  A  new-light  republican,  not  many  years 
since  from  England,  took  advantage  of  the  occasion  to  open 
a  debating-club,  professing  to  have  just  become  a  little  bee- 
headed  on  the  subject ;  and  in  spile  of  every  thing,  began 
with  a  regular  peroration,  and  proceeded  through  an  ha- 
rangue, which  consumed  time  and  patience,  as  the  steam- 
boats consume  fuel.  For  my  part,  I  made  reflectiona  during 
the  five  hours  we  spent  there,  which  I  have  never  since  re- 
peated with  equal  solemnity.  After  all,  thought  I,  what  is 
liberty,  if  a  man  is  liable  to  be  torn  from  business  in  the 
day-time,  and  from  family  and  home  at  night,  because  a 
stranger  in  his  country,  five  or  six  years  ago,  did  commit 
forgery ;  because  two  or  three  lawyers  have  chosen  to  give 
the  question  all  possible  doubtfulness ;  because  two  out  of 
twelve  men  have  no  understanding,  or  no  honesty,  or  no 
warm  clothing :  for  by  this  time  I  began  to  perceive  a  dis- 
position in  the  dissentients  to  yield  their  point,  and  observed 
that  the  fire  had  sunk,  and  the  snow-storm  had  begun  to 
chill  the  room.     They  soon  agreed  on  a  verdict. 

I  visited  the  battle-ground  on  Bemis's  Heights  in  com- 
pany with  several  friends  more  familiar  than  myself  with 
the  circusmtances  of  the  campaign  of  seventy-seven,  and  a 
guide  who  professed  to  have  been  in  the  action.  The  ele- 
vation of  the  ground  is  much  more  considerable  than  I  had 
supposed.  When  we  began  to  ascend  from  the  bank  of 
Cummingskill,  the  road  was  so  narrow  and  steep,  and  often 
so  much  overhung  by  trees,  as  to  be  at  once  laborious  and 
gloomy.  The  impressions  were  increased  by  the  recollec- 
tion that  Burgoyne's  army  had  marched  up  the  same  path 
in  the  anticipation  of  further  success,  and  a  final  victory 
over  the  country.  The  whole  field  of  battle,  then  covered 
with  forests,  except  two  cleared  fields,  is  now  unincumbered 
except  by  a  few  fences  and  scattering  trees ;  and  we  were 
shown  the  line  of  the  British,  with  the  routes  by  which 
Morgan,  Arnold,  and  our  other  officers  assailed  it  at  difierent 


1 


210 


SARATOGA  BATTtE-OROUND. 


periods  of  the  action,  and  with  various  success.  I  hate  the 
details  of  slaughter,  ever  since  I  have  overcome  the  savage 
and  heathen  impressions  1  received  with  my  "  bberal  educa- 
tion." I  learnt  to  admire  them  from  the  notes  of  admiration 
with  which  the  classics  abound  for  those  notorious  butchers, 
who  in  former  times  did  so  much  busmess  under  different 
firms  :_Alexander,  Hannibal  and  Co.,  Caesar  and  brothers 
I  therefore  did  not  regret  that  the  battle  on  this  ground 
amounted  only  to  a  matter  of  a  thousand  or  so  killed  on 
both  sides-a  mere  skirmish,  in  the  opinion  of  an  European. 
General  Wilkinson  tells  facts  which  show,  that  there  was 
excitement  enough  here  to  raise  in  some  mdividuals  the 
most  barbarous  and  blood-thirsty  spirit. 

Our  guide  appeared  sometimes  at  fault,  but  never  being 
disposed  to  acknowledge  it,  generally  found  a  reply  to  every 
question.  Two  of  the  party  differed  about  the  spot  on  which 
General  Frazer  fell,  and  inquired  of  him-"  Where  >.^s 
General  Frazer  wounded  ?"—«  Let  me  see,  said  he,  1 
believe  in  the  bowels,  pretty  much." 

I  heard  the  late  General  Van  Cortlandt,  a  colonel  in  the 
New-York  hne,  and  participator  in  this  battle,  say,  that  he 
WHS  not  brought  into  action  until  late  in  t;»e^ftern°«»  "^  J^^ 
29lh  of  September,  when  he  was  ordered  by  Arnold  to  take 
post  beyond  the  left  of  our  line,  and  engage  in  action  or  not, 
as  he  might  judge  proper.     He  engaged  a  regiment  of  Hes- 
sians,  of  whise  shirt  guns  our  soldiers  did  not  think  much, 
and  drove  them  back.     One  of  his  officers  was  wounded  by 
his  side,  and  he  placed  him  upon  his  horse.     While  pur- 
suing, he  met  a  regiment  of  British  light  infantry  on  Ins 
flank,  and  partly  in  his  rear,  advancing  and  tirmg,  but  w  l- 
out  seeing  them  in  the  darkness.     He  halted  m  a  foot-path 
nearly  parallel  to  them,  about  a  foot  lower  than  the  surface 
of  thJ  ground,  ordering  his  men  not  to  fire  ti  I  they  should 
see  the  enemy's  flash,  and  then  aim  a  little  below  it.     Di- 
rectly the  flash  was  seen  all  along  their  line,  the  fire  was  im- 
mediately  returned,  and  this  checked  them.     He  then  went 
round  to  his  ofiicers,  and  ordered  them  to  withdraw  quietly, 
and  leturned  to  camp.    After  an  engagement  of  an  hour  and 
a  half,  he  had  lost  one  man  to  every  five  and  a  halt  in  ms 


rLE-OROVND. 

various  success.     I  hate  the 

I  have  overcome  the  savage 

ived  with  my  "  liberal  educa- 

from  the  notes  of  admiration 

for  those  notorious  butchers, 

much  business  under  different 

and  Co.,  Caesar  and  brothers. 

lat  the  battle  on  this  ground 

f  a  thousand  or  so  killed  on 

n  the  opinion  of  an  European. 

vv'hich  show,  that  there  was 

aise  in  some  individuals  the 

sty  spirit. 

imes  at  fault,  but  never  being 
(nerally  found  a  reply  to  every 
ifl'ered  about  the  spot  on  which 
quired  of  him—"  Where  was 
-"Let  me  see,"  said  he,  "I 
much." 

an  Cortlandt,  a  colonel  in  the 
itor  in  this  battle,  say,  that  he 
ntil  late  in  the  afternoon  of  the 
was  ordered  by  Arnold  to  take 
le,  and  engage  in  action  or  not, 
ie  engaged  a  regiment  of  Hes- 
ir  soldiers  did  not  think  much, 
of  his  officers  was  wounded  by 
1  upon  his  horse.     While  pur- 
f  British  light  infantry  on  his 
advancing  and  tiring,  but  with- 
icss.     He  halted  in  a  foot-path 
ut  a  foot  lower  than  the  surface 
nen  not  to  fire  till  they  should 
hen  aim  a  little  below  it.     Di- 
along  their  line,  the  tire  was  im- 
checked  them.     He  then  went 
dered  them  to  withdraw  quietly, 
r  an  engagement  of  an  hour  and 
to  every  five  and  a  half  in  his 


HEVOLUTIONARV  ANECDOTES. 


211 


regiment.    Colonel  Cilley  lost  but  one  out  of  seven  in  five 
or  six  hours. 

While  in  the  vicinity  of  Bemis's  Heights,  I  was  reminded 
of  several  anecdotes  I  had  lieard  at  different  periods,  and 
from  different  persons,  relating  to  the  battles  here  and  at  the 
Wallomsac,  the  last  of  which  is  usually  called  tlie  battle  of 
Bennington.  What  must  have  been  the  state  of  the  country, 
when  the  panic  caused  by  the  desertion  of  Fort  Ticonderoga 
was  such,  that  although  a  long  delay  took  place  before 
General  Burgoyne  began  to  march  from  Whitehall,  he  met 
no  opposition  until  he  reached  this  spot.  Exertions  were 
made  by  the  patriotic  who  were  yet  undiscouraged,  to  raise 
the  people  in  arms ;  but  how  was  it  to  be  expected  that  the 
militia  could  stop  the  course  of  an  army,  before  which  regu- 
lar troops  had  fled  out  of  the  principal  fortress  of  the  coun- 
try? The  history  of  the  time  has  been  written  several 
times,  and  narrated  a  thousand.  I  will  therefore  leave  my 
readers  to  books,  and  only  repeat  two  or  three  tales  I  have 
heard  from  private  sources.  Word  of  mouth  has  oilen  a 
charm,  because  it  conveys  feeling,  and  that  everybody  can 
understand. 

"  My  father,"  said  a  gentleman  I  once  conversed  with, 
♦♦  lived  in  Berkshire  County,  Massachusetts,  when  the  news 
came  that  the  Hessians  were  going  to  seize  the  stores  on 
the  Wallamsac  Creek,  and  all  the  force  of  the  country  was 
wanted.  He  was  a  hardy  farmer,  and  well-known  there- 
abouts, so  that  he  had  been  chosen  captain  of  a  company  of 
old  men,  exempt  from  service  by  age,  which  had  been  raised 
for  any  case  of  extremity.  This  company,  which  was  called 
the  '  Silver  Grays,'  in  allusion  to  their  hoary  hair,  set  off  for 
the  scene  of  action  immediately,  and  was  on  the  ground  on 
the  morning  of  the  battle,  in  time  to  have  a  part  assigned 
in  the  attack  made  upon  the  intrenched  line  of  the  enemy. 
On  account  of  the  respectability  of  the  company,  they  were 
left  to  choose  their  place ;  and  agreed  to  attack  the  tory 
fort,  as  a  redoubt  on  an  eminence  was  called,  which  had 
been  entrusted  to  the  Americans  accompanying  the  Hessian 
troops.  The  captain  informed  his  men  that  it  was  his  in- 
tention to  approach  their  object  through  a  ravine  which  he 


212  KEVOLUTIONARY  ANKCDOTE*. 

Observed  led  in  that  direction,  to  enjoy  all  the  shelter  it 
micrht  afford.  '  Captain,'  said  a  large  and  powerful  man,  in 
Se  prime  of  life,  stepping  forward,  pale  and  trembhng, '  I 
am  not  going  to  fight:  I  came  to  lead  back  the  horses.  •Go. 
Ten,'  sfi d  the  captain,  with  indignation ;'  we  shall  do  betuj 

without  a  coward  in  our  number.'— '  Deacon -,   saia 

he  U,  a  little  old  man,  shrivelled  with  age,  'you  are  too  fee- 
ble  to  bear  the  fatigues  of  the  day.^  It  is  my  pleasure  that 
vou  stand  sentry  over  the  baggage.'  „,„„„:„„ 

"•With  your  leave,  captain,'  said  the  old  man,  stepping 
forward,  and  making  the  soldier's  sign  «[ /espect  to  a  s^ 
perior,  with  as  much  the  air  of  a  youth  as  he  could,- 
Twith  your  loave  I  will  have  a  pull  at  'era  first. 

"The  company  expressed  their  admiration  at  his  spirit, 
and  under  the  feelings  it  produced,  succeedmg  as  it  did  the 
SLlay  of  arrant  cowardice  in  a  younger  man,  they  marched 
Z\i  quick  step  towards  the  enemy.     When  they  reached 
the  end  of  the  ravine,  the  captain  intended  to  form  and  at- 
tack, supposing  they  must  yet  be  at  some  distance  from  the 
redoubt.^  InstLd  of  this,  on  looking  up  he  found  himself 
31st  at  the  base  of  it,  and  the  tories  taking  aim  at  h  m 
?rom  above.    In  an  instant  he  lay  upon  the  ground,  a  bu  let 
having  passed  through  his  foot;  and  a  friend  near  him  ran 
U>  raise  him,  supposing  him  killed.    He  sprang  upon  his 
feet,  howeve'r,  Z  jusf  then   seeing  a  red-coat  hurrying 
across  a  field  at  a  distance,  a  thought  came  into  his  head  to 
Tcourage  his  men,  and  he  cried  out-'  Come  on,  they  run 
thev  run:'     The  old  men  climbed  up,  jumped  mto  the  for^ 
Sn  a  moment  the  Silver  Grays  had  complete  possession 
of  it  without  the  loss  of  one  of  their  number. 

aJu  five  years  ago  I  obtained  a  few  facts  from  the  late 
Colonel  Ball,  of  Ballston,  relating  to  the  early  h^tory  of  the 
Springs  and  the  neighbouring  watenng-place.  fhe  vi  lage 
of  Ballston  Spa  lies  within  the  limits  of  the  township  of 
Milton  adjoining  that  of  Ballston.  This  region  was 
named  after  the  father  of  my  informant,  who  removed  hither 
?rom  W  stchester  County,  in  1769.  and  built  the  first  house 
on  the  banks  of  Kayderos,  or  Kayderoseras  Brook,  the 
frame  of  which  was  standing  near  the  academy. 


w 

tl 

S' 

s] 

1( 

C 

Ii 
fs 
fr 
tl 

P 

P 

tl 


r  ANXCDOT£l> 

,  to  enjoy  all  the  shelter  it 
a  large  and  powerful  man,  in 
•ward,  pale  and  trembling, '  I 
» lead  back  the  horses.  '  Go, 
lignation ;  '  we  shall  do  better 

nber.' — '  Deacon ,'  said 

ed  with  age,  '  you  are  too  fee- 
day.  It  is  my  pleasure  that 
gage.' 

11,'  said  the  old  man,  stepping 
er's  sign  of  respect  to  a  »u- 
•  of  a  youth  as  he  could, — 
a  pull  at  'era  first.' 
their  admiration  at  his  spirit ; 
luced,  succeeding  as  it  did  the 
a  younger  man,  they  marched 
enemy.     When  they  reached 
ptain  intended  to  form  and  at- 
t  be  at  some  distance  from  the 
looking  up  he  found  himself 
the  tories  taking  aim  at  him 
e  lay  upon  the  ground,  a  bullet 
ot ;  and  a  friend  near  him  ran 
1  killed.    He  sprang  upon  his 
n   seeing  a  red-coat  hurrying 
I  thought  came  into  his  head  to 
ried  out — '  Come  on,  they  run, 
mbed  up,  jumped  into  the  fort, 
Grays  had  complete  possession 
of  their  number." 
tained  a  few  facts  from  the  late 
lating  to  the  early  history  of  the 
ig  watering-place.     The  village 
I  the  limits  of  the  township  of 
Ballston.      This    region   was 
r  informant,  who  removed  hither 
n  1769,  and  built  the  first  house 
s,  or  Kaydcroseras  Brook,  the 
g  near  the  academy. 


LXnVBI  TIME. 


313 


At  that  time,  the  low  grounds  near  the  Springs  of  Ballston 
were  covered  with  a  forest,  and  the  old  spring  (the  only  one 
then  known)  was  overflown  by  the  brook  when  it  was  much 
swollen  by  the  rain.  The  deer  used  to  come  to  lick  at  the 
spring ;  and  he  has  been  there  in  his  youth  to  ambush  and 
shoot  them.  It  was  not  uncommon  then  to  meet  deer  in 
looking  for  stray  cattle ;  and  the  Indians  often  came  from 
Oneida  to  hunt,  in  bodies  of  two  or  three  hundred.  No 
Indians,  however,  had  their  residence  in  this  vicinity.  His 
father,  at  an  interview  with  Sir  William  Johnson,  once  heard 
from  him  the  particulars  of  the  wound  which  he  received  in 
the  battle  of  Lake  George,  in  1755,  which  was  in  the  front 
part  of  his  thigli,  and  remained  open  till  he  died.  Two 
physicians  afterward  recommended  to  Sir  William  to  visit 
the  Spring,  the  water  being  celebrated  at  Albany  and  Sche- 
nectady as  good  in  some  diseases.  Sir  William,  tlierefore, 
sent  about  ten  men  to  clear  a  road  for  his  carriage,  or  liiter, 
from  Schenectady  to  the  Spring,  under  the  direction  of  Mr. 
Ball ;  and  my  informant  dined  with  him  in  a  large  marquee, 
pitched  on  the  level  border  of  Ballston  Lake.  Near  the 
same  place  were  the  log-houses  of  two  men  named 
McDonald,  who  had  settled  there  about  seven  years  be- 
fore his  father's  arrival.  The  company  afterward  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Spring,  where  Sir  William  used  the  water, 
but  without  any  material  benefit. 

While  speaking  of  old  times,  I  may  mention,  that  a  few 
years  ago,  a  small  image  of  a  man,  made,  I  think,  of  bone, 
with  garnets  for  eyes,  was  found  near  that  little  lake,  bear- 
ing a  strong  resemblance  in  form  and  appearance  to  such  as 
have  been  taken  from  some  of  the  western  mounds,  accord- 
ing to  Mr.  Atwater,  and  tending  to  confuse  us  still  more  in 
our  conjectures  about  the  origin  of  the  former  inhabhants  of 
this  part  of  the  country. 

Leisure  time — here  is  a  portion  of  existence  which  is  to 
be  carefully  regarded  and  watched  over,  whether  it  belongs 
to  individuals  or  to  communities.  What  progress  in  know- 
ledge might  the  most  humble,  even  the  most  busy  person 
make  in  llie  course  of  his  life,  if  he  were  to  pursue  some 
judicious  plan  for  the  occupation  of  his  leisure  moments ! 

19 


S14 


THB  SPBIN«I. 


What  misery  and  ignorance,  what  sufferings  and  crimes 
might  be  prevented  if  provision  were  made  •ne^'X  !»'  «8« 
or  town  for  the  useful  occupation  of  the  unemployed  t.me 
of  those  who  most  need  some  arrangemenu  for  the  pnr- 

^  We  have  often  evidence  presented  of  the  great  amount  of 
leisure  time  at  the  command  of  different  individuals.     Look 
at  the  libraries  of  monkish  manuscripts  m  Europe,  and  those 
innumerable  collections  of  paintings,  as  well  as  the  millions 
of  pictures  scattered  through  the  old  world,  from  the  pencils 
of  artists  who  laboured  for  the  mere  gratification  of  taste,  or 
by  a  desperate  hope  borne  up  against  every  discouragement. 
Listen  to,  or  rather  think  of  the  thousands  of  tales  which 
are  told  over  and  over  again  by  the  populace  of  every  coun- 
try in  their  imervals  of  labour;  and  think  of  the  wear  and 
tear  of  tongues,  and  ears,  and  feelings  required  to  carry  on 
the  titUe  tattle  of  four  or  five  contmenta.     And' why  the 
"busy  member"  is  not  worn  out,  or  at  least  tired,  is  a  great 
wonder.     It  is  like  the  ocean,  fretting  rocks  into  pebbles, 
and  grinding  them  to  sand,  with  an  exertion  of  force  which 
mieht  be  employed  to  construct  temples  or  pyramids.    Lei- 
sure time  should  be  first  guarded  against  injurious  employ- 
ments, and  then,  if  possible,  against  those  which  are  merely 
harmless.    Let  the  parent  and  the  teacher  act  on  this  simp  e 
principle,  and  he  will  lay  a  basis  which  must  bear  a  noble 
Structure.      Even   in   a  single   day,   a   single    mdividual 
may  thus  accomplish  much;  how  much  more  a  parent  with 
a  <impany  of  children,  or  the  benevolent  man  who  can  give 
a  direction  to  society!  . 

At  these  watering-places  we  meet  a  great  variety  of  com- 

^T'sometimes  seems  to  me  as  if  we  begin  to  stray  into 
some  folly  as  soon  as  we  begin  to  leave  home.  I  have  been 
listening  to  the  remarks  of  a  gentleman  on  the  beauties  and 
perfections  of  the  German  language;  and  all  I  find  m  my 
own  honest  mind,  as  the  result  of  his  conversation,  is  such 
an  impression  as  would  have  been  left  if  he  had  openly  be- 
lied our  country,  and  concluded  by  preferring  Iceland  or 
Gulliver's  Brobdignag.      This  is  not  because  I  am  dis- 


IIN«I. 

what  sufierings  and  erimea 
\n  were  made  in  every  village 
lion  of  the  unemployed  time 
le  arrangeraenta  for  the  pur- 

■sented  of  the  great  amount  of 
if  different  individuals.     Look 
nuscripts  in  Europe,  and  those 
ntings,  as  well  as  the  millions 
ihe  old  world,  from  the  pencils 
I  mere  gratification  of  taste,  or 
against  every  discouragement, 
the  thousands  of  tales  which 
by  the  populace  of  every  coun- 
ir ;  and  think  of  the  wear  and 
1  feelings  required  to  carry  on 
ve  continents.     And*  why  the 
out,  or  at  least  tired,  is  a  great 
in,  fretting  rocks  into  pebbles, 
ith  an  exertion  of  force  which 
i;ct  temples  or  pyramids.    Lei- 
irdod  against  injurious  employ- 
against  those  which  are  merely 
id  the  teacher  act  on  this  simple 
basis  which  must  bear  a  noble 
igle   day,   a   single    individual 
how  much  more  a  parent  with 
le  benevolent  man  who  can  give 

ive  meet  a  great  variety  of  com- 

le  as  if  we  begin  to  stray  into 
gin  to  leave  home.  I  have  been 
i  gentleman  on  the  beauties  and 
language ;  and  all  I  find  in  my 
suit  of  his  conversation,  is  such 
ire  been  left  if  he  had  openly  be- 
luded  by  preferring  Iceland  or 
rhis   is  not   because  I  am  dis- 


BBAVTIES  or  THE  OERMAN. 


SIS 


posed  to  underrate  German  or  any  other  language ;  but  be- 
cause I  have  a  just  esteem  for  English.  1  dare  say  that  in 
my  heart  my  regard  for  German  is  equal  to  his,  nay,  that  I 
should  value  it,  on  ihe  whole,  more  than  he.  I  do  not  love 
Caesar  less,  but  I  love  Rome  more.  There  is  a  propensity 
in  us,  under  the  influence  of  the  schools  we  have  passed 
through,  to  know  little  of  ourselves  and  of  what  belongs  to 
us ;  and  to  seek  every  pretext  for  admiring  what  is  foreign. 
I  take  a  part  of  the  same  condemnation  to  myself — I  found 
it  first,  and  have  observed  it  most  frequently,  in  myself.  I 
am  only  anxious  to  see  it  cured,  and  do  not  wish  to  fix  dis- 
credit anywhere,  except  so  far  as  is  necessary,  when  I 
would  show  the  source  of  the  evil. 

We  begin  with  being  required  to  admire  beauties  in  Greek 
and  Latin,  which  are  of  three  classes :  1.  Real,  substantial 
ones,  not  found  in  our  own  language :  2.  Such  as  exist  in 
our  own,  and  which  we  might  far  more  perfectly,  as  well  as 
easily,  have  comprehended  in  English,  if  they  had  been 
pointed  out  to  us  :  3.  Defects  and  deformities,  or  false  beau- 
ties ;  as  for  instance,  the  frequent  use  of  the  third  person 
singular  for  the  third  person  plural  in  Greek  verbs,  in  viola- 
tion of  grammatical  decency.  This  is  peculiar  to  Greek, 
we  are  told,  and  there  is  a  rule  for  it.  There  is  an  "  ex- 
ception" for  it,  but  no  possible  apology.  But,  whether  good, 
bad,  or  indifferent,  this  is  the  way  in  which  many  of  us  have 
been  educated  with  a  contempt  for  the  beauties  of  English ; 
and  if  we  ever  obtain  a  relish  for  them,  it  is  only  by  the  in- 
dependent use  of  our  own  minds  breaking  the  halter  of 
education. 

I  was  speaking  of  German.  Like  every  language,  it  has 
its  peculiarities  when  compared  with  another;  but  it  is 
not  necessarily  superior  in  every  particular,  because  it  may 
be  in  some.  It  is  unjust  and  injurious  to  admire  its  excel- 
lences and  overlook  those  of  English ;  but  it  is  ridiculous 
to  overpraise  in  it  exacdy  the  qualities  which  we  familiarly 
resort  to  in  our  own  tongue,  for  use  or  embellishment  in 
our  discourse.  But  examples  are  most  to  our  purpose. 
The  German  is  susceptible  of  endless  combinations ;  so  is 
the  English.    They  may  take  a  verb,  liken  geken,  to  go,  I 


210 


THE  SPRIN08. 


was   told,  and  by  prefixing  their  liighly-expreasive   pre- 
positions, vary  its  meaning  to  a  great  degree.     And   so 
refined,  delicate,  and  cultivated  is  this  tongue,  that  "shades 
of  meaning"  may  be  conveyed  from  mind  to  mind,  as  it  were, 
•'  which  no  one  can  conceive  who  is  unacquainted  with  this 
most  perfect  vehicle  of  thought !"     Now,  the  very  expres- 
sion of  such  a  preposterous  sentiment  (so  insulting,  if  it  were 
not  too  ridiculous  to  be  so),  called  to  my  mind  good  Eng- 
lish  verbs  and  epithets,  simple,  compound,  and  mixed,  enough 
to  break  its  back  and  sink  it.     Indeed,  the  language  seemed 
to  be  aroused  to  repel  such  a  Gothic  invasion ;  and  many 
files  of  our  good  old  Saxon  words  mustered  out,  as  the 
farmers  did  at  Bennington,  to  fight  the  Hessians.     There 
was  especially  Colonel  Go  and  his  family  regiment,  and  I 
recognised  Undergo,  Overgo,  Forego,  with  all  the  files  of 
the  Bygones,  the  Ingoings,  and  the  Outgoings,  and  I  know 
not  how  many  more.     »  Ah,  Captain  Invade !"  said  I,  "  you 
are  a  good  man,  I  may  want  you  by-and-by  to  go  into  the 
enemy's  country;  but  you  are  out  of  place,  you  do  not  be- 
long here."     "  Pardon,  sir,"  said  he ;  "  but  I  belong  to  the 
family.     Didn't  one  of  ray  grandfathers  come  to  Englaiid 

from  Rome,  and  marry  her  that  was "    "  True,"  said 

I,  "  you  are  right— Captain,  or  Centurion  Vado ;  and  wheri 
I  said  go  into,  I  but  translated  your  name,  sir."  "  Just  so," 
said  he ;  "  and  here  is  my  regiment— let  me  introduce  you 
to  Major  Evade,  and  Lieutenant-colonel  Pervade.  I  have 
not  an  officer  or  a  rank  and  file  man  who  is  not  of  the 
family."  "  Let  me  see,"  said  I,  "  did  not  your  Roman  an- 
cestor sometimes  spell  his  name  with  a  W?"  "That," 
said  he,  "  I  have  never  been  told,  but  I  have  suspected  it. 
I  have  never  heard  much  said  about  him,  and  have  felt 
almost  ashamed  of  him :  for  though  he  and  many  of  his 
family  had  served  under  the  Cajsars,  he  emigrated  to  a  bar- 
barous country.  So  far  as  I  have  found,  one  of  his  sons 
married  an  Out,  and  I  believe  this  is  the  only  one  who  ever 
kept  both  the  mother's  name  and  the  W.  The  others,  who 
spelled  with  a  V,  married  into  Roman  families.  However, 
I  must  look  at  the  books  of  heraldry:  Johnson's,  and 
Walker's,  and  Webster's.     Sergeant  Wade  will  be  good, 


RINGS. 

llieir  highly-expreasive   pre- 

10  a  great  degree.  And  so 
J  is  this  tongue,  that  "  shades 
from  mind  to  mind,  as  it  were, 
who  is  unacquainted  with  this 
fht !"  Now,  the  very  expres- 
miment  (so  insulting,  if  it  were 
called  to  my  mind  good  Eng- 
compound,  and  mixed,  enough 

Indeed,  the  language  seemed 

I  (jothic  invasion ;  and  many 

words  mustered  out,  as  the 

0  fight  the  Hessians.     There 
nd  his  family  regiment,  and  I 

Forego,  with  all  the  files  of 
id  the  Outgoings,  and  I  know 
Captain  Invade !"  said  I,  "  you 
t  you  by-and-by  to  go  into  the 
e  out  of  place,  you  do  not  be- 
said  he ;  "  but  I  belong  to  the 
rrandfathers  come  to  England 

lat  was "    "  True,"  said 

or  Centurion  Vado ;  and  when 
d  your  name,  sir."  "  Just  so," 
!giment — let  me  introduce  you 
nant-colonel  Pervade.  I  have 
il  file  man  who  is  not  of  the 
id  I,  "  did  not  your  Roman  an- 

name  with  a  W?"     "That," 

11  told,  but  I  have  suspected  it. 
laid  about  him,  and  have  felt 
r  though  he  and  many  of  his 
Cajsars,  he  emigrated  to  a  bar- 

1  have  found,  one  of  his  sons 
e  this  is  the  only  one  who  ever 
and  the  W.     The  others,  who 

to  Roman  families.     However, 

of  heraldry:    Johnson's,  and 

Sergeant  Wade  will  be  good, 


THE  BNOLISHt  A  TOLKRABLI  LANOVAOI. 


217 


if  we  have  shoal  water  to  cross ;  and  Corporal  Outwade  it 
better  than  he." 

But  the  German  language  is  said  to  admit  of  other  combi- 
nations, with  peculiar  ease  and  force,  (for  I  cannot  give  a 
longer  report  of  this  grand  review  of  our  numerous  and 
effective  troops — our  great  army  of  Vernaculars).  And 
cannot  we  do  so  too  ?  Indeed,  can  we  get  along  without 
the  use  of  the  same  grammatical  join-hand  ? — Ecce  signum ! 
How  is  this  word  join-Aand  made!  Why,  just  as  the  re- 
fined and  elegant  German  makes  its  own  word  (or  glove — 
hand-schuh  (hand-shoe!)  0, the  inimitable  splendours  of 
the  sublimated  foreign  tongues.  Hand-schuh  !  It  is  true 
we  cannot  say  that  in  English  for  glove,  but  we  may  use 
hand-saw,  hand-pump,  hand-blow,  hand-cloth,  and  many 
other  combinations  we  find  convenient,  beside  making  it  a 
verb,  and  changing  it  into  handle  (as  a  noun,  an  active  and 
passive  verb),  into  right  and  left-hand,  each  of  which  also 
may  become  an  active  or  passive  verb,  if  we  please,  or  may 
be  used  after  a  preposition,  or  as  an  adjective :  as  on  the 
right-hand— near  the  left-hand  corner,  dec.  &.c. 

I  have,  perhaps,  said  too  much  on  this  subject ;  but  I 
have  undergone  so  much  in  hearing  our  language  ilUlreattdx 
that  I  could  nol  forego  this  opportunity  to  repel,  resist,  and 
throw  hack  a  little  upon  the  aggressors.  And  who  can  utter 
a  sentence  in  English  without  admiring  the  rich  compound 
structure  of  the  language,  or,  perhaps,  not  less  extensive 
and  various  than  any  other  civilized  tongue  in  this  sort  of 
combinations,  when  we  include  the  Latin  branches  ?  How 
wonderful  is  the  range  afforded  us  in  conversation  aitd 
writing;  and  how  adapted  to  every  purpose  the  familiar, 
brief,  forcible,  and  honest  Saxon  words,  ever  giving  readies! 
passage  to  a  gush  of  feeling,  whether  raised  by  a  witty  con- 
ceit, swelled  by  joy,  or  melted  by  sorrow.  This  is  a  lan-i 
guage  by  itself,  and  yet  but  half  what  we  possess.  There  i» 
the  Latin,  more  smooth  and  soft,  with  words  of  greater 
length  and  sweeter  harmony,  possessing  also  a  plan  of  comn 
binations  in  some  respects  different,  and  affording  opportuni- 
ties for  clear,  though  distant  allusions,  and  derivations 
which  point  back  to  a  refined  source  in  a  classio  and  pok 

19* 


218 


THB  IPRINOS. 


isheil  age.     Then  turning  to  Greek :  how  many  useful  and 
flcKiint  words  do  we  count,  which  stand  forward  in  the  pano- 
ply of  Homer's  heroes,  and  witli  voices  that  remind  us  by 
turtiH  of  the  winged  and  the  honeyed  ac^cents  of  ancient  times, 
as  well  as  of  the  brazen-throated  trumpets  which  sounded 
before  Ilium.     How  do  these  noble  languages,  like  two  fer- 
tilizing  streams  from  the  same    pure   and  lofty  fountain, 
enrich  our  native  tongue!     Think  of  the  fine,  sonorous 
terminations  which  fix  their  golden  and  diamond  tips  on  the 
noblest  stanzas  of  our  great  heroic  poets,  and  engrave  them 
deeply  on  our  hearts.     Kcmembcr  the  abundant  supply  of 
prefixes  with  which  we  can  grasp  every  verb  in  the  lan- 
guage ;  and,  as  if  with  the  liand  on  the  plough,  or  a  gentle 
touch  of  the  courser's  rein,  or  the  richer  than  silken  tie 
which  draws  the  carrier  pigeon  home,  we  can  guide  them 
where  wo  will : — 

"  On  earth,  in  air,  and  under  ground." 


CHAPTER  XXVHI. 

Thought*  on  Foreign  Travel— Dr.  Sweet,  the  natural  Bone-setter- 
Retiring  Travellers. 

How  rapid  is  the  mind,  and  how  rapid  indeed  is  the 
tongue,  although  it  has  passed  into  a  common  remark,  that 
the  latter  can  never  pretend  to  race  with  the  former.  Part 
of  a  pleasant  morning  spent  in  conversation  with  a  friend 
who  has  just  landed  from  an  European  tour,  has  taken  me 
in  fancy  over  so  much  ground,  revived  the  memory  of  so 
many  past  scenes,  and  enriched  me  with  so  many  new  ideas, 
that  it  seems  as  if  time  had  been  quadrupled  in  duration. 
Surely  travel  is  an  enriching,  an  ennobling,  an  exalting,  as 
well  as  a  delightful  employment,  when  properly  used ;  and 
my  friend,  I  am  convinced,  has  been  successful  above  most 


ti 
d 
li 

V 

tl 
b 
'J 

P 

h 

g 
a 
a 
h 
w 
e< 
ti 

la 

V( 

in 
a( 
th 
ai 
oi 
ol 


I1N08. 

>reck :  how  mnny  useful  and 
icli  Bland  forward  in  the  pano- 
ith  voices  that  remind  us  by 
leyed  a(!cent»  of  ancient  times, 
lated  trumpets  which  sounded 
noble  languages,  like  two  fer- 
mc    pure   and  lofty  fountain. 
Think  of  the  fine,  sonorous 
)l(len  and  diamond  tips  on  the 
proi(!  poets,  and  engrave  them 
L'mbcr  the  abundant  supply  of 
grasp  every  verb  in  the  lan- 
»nd  on  tlie  plough,  or  a  gentle 
or  the  richer  ilian  silken  tie 
)n  home,  we  can  guide  them 


and  under  ground." 


R  XXVIII. 

r.  Sweet,  the  natural  Bone-setter^ 
Travellers. 

and  how  rapid  indeed  is  the 
led  into  a  common  remark,  that 
to  race  with  the  former.  Part 
t  in  conversation  with  a  friend 
1  European  tour,  has  taken  me 
ind,  revived  the  memory  of  so 
led  me  with  so  many  new  ideas, 
d  been  quadrupled  in  duration, 
g,  an  ennobling,  an  exalting,  as 
nent,  when  properly  used ;  and 
lias  been  successful  above  most 


PIETY  AND  rORIION  TRAVgL. 


919 


others  in  making  the  best  use  of  his  opportunities.  I  saw 
him  before  lie  sailed,  nay,  I  knew  him.  He  had  long  made 
up  his  mind  that  this  world  is  a  place  of  pasnage,  a  thorough- 
fare  to  a  belter,  abounding  with  enjoynients  which  nuiy  be- 
come sources  of  aculo  and  lasting  pain,  and  wiih  trials 
which  may  l)e  converted  into  joys  of  the  most  exijuisite  and 
laming  nature,  lie  was  a  Ciiristian,  and  1  had  seen  the  fact 
established  by  severe  alliiclions.  Having  viewed  and  re- 
viewed  Willi  him,  in  aniicMpation,  the  temptalions  of  Kiirope, 
and  in(lul(,'ed,  at  partinjf,  in  reliance  on  him  wiio  can  aid  and 
preserve,  il  was  nut  strange  that  1  should  fetl  deeply  inter- 
ested in  every  thing  he  saw  and  fell  during  his  absence,  on 
ground  which  I  iiad  passed  over. 

Christianity  has  a  thousand  charming  smiles,  tones,  alti- 
tudes, and  actions  at  home  :  but  how  it  strikes  us  to  see  it 
deveIoi)ed  abroad  and  among  foreign  scenes !  Her  spirit, 
fit  for  every  climate  and  society,  blesses  all  which  she 
visits.  It  is  particularly  delightful  to  trace  her  course 
through  a  region  of  ihe  earth  like  Italy,  which  has  so  long 
been  regarded  by  us  as  devoted  to  the  enjoyments  of  taste. 
Taste  there  appears  ranged  side  by  side  with  her,  in  scenes 
peculiarly  appropriate  to  display  her  nature  and  to  exhibit 
her  superiority  with  advantage.  What  a  pity  il  is  that  reli- 
gion,  in  her  unostentatious  but  not  unfrequent  visits  fo  that 
attractive  land,  should  not  have  become  more  an  object  of 
attention  to  our  countrymen !  If  we  could  be  furnished  with 
her  views  and  reflections  among  the  monuments  of  antiquity, 
we  should  find  that  mere  antiquarian  knowledge  has  not 
equal  power  to  render  interesting  the  dust  of  past  genera- 
tions, or  to  enlighten  the  gloom  of  decay. 

Among  the  numerous  visiters  to  Italy  who  speak  our 
language,  there  are  annually  to  be  found  some  of  a  most  de- 
voted religious  character.  Some  are  driven  by  shortened 
incomes  to  consult  economy  abroad ;  others  go  under  the 
advice  of  physicians ;  some  travel  to  improve  their  minds, 
that  they  may  become  more  useful  to  the  world ;  and  some 
are  borne  in  the  trains  of  more  gay  or  ostentatious  friends, 
on  whom  they  are  dependant.  But  amid  so  many  memorials 
of  the  past  leading  to  contemplation,  and  such  a  flood  of 


i- 


\ 


220 


THE  SPRINGS. 


ignorant  and  trifling  minda  devoted  to  the  present,  how  in- 
teresting do  such  individuals  appear.    Whatever  their  age» 
their  costumes,  or  the  motives  of  their  journey,  they  are 
alike  in  most   important  respects.     They  regard  things 
around  them  as  they  really  are,  not  as  they  pretend  to  be ; 
they  discriminate  between  the  right  and  the  wrong  use  o| 
the  enjoyments  which  are  offered  to  them,  and  derive  real 
happiness  from  things  neglected  by  the  crowd,  while  they 
are  not  disappointed  by  unreasonable  expectations  founded 
on  an  erroneous  estimate  of  others.    They  do  not  of  course 
underrate  the  importance  of  times  that  are  past,  because 
they  regard  the  present  as  of  most  consequence  to  thena- 
selves,  but  draw  lessons  from  former  generations  to  exalt 
or  to  purify  their  own  thoughts  and  actions  to-day.   A  young 
Christian  in  Italy,  who  thus  pursues  the  great  objects  of  his 
life,  has  to  encounter  obstacles  and  discouragements,  and  to 
overcome  difficulties  which  require  great  decision,  resolu- 
tion,  and  perseverance,  and  rapidly  ripen  his  heart  and  his 
mind.     Indeed,  the  older  and  more  experienced,  while  sur- 
veying the  scenes  which  Italy  presents,  feel  that  there 
they  need  peculiar  watchfulness  and  care  over  their  feelings, 
because  external  attractions  are  greatly  increased ;  whd© 
the  external  aids  of  Christian  society  are  at  the  same  time 
removed.    Whatever  alarms  the  Christian's  fear,  or  awakens 
his  self-suspicion,  tends  to  exhibit  more  clearly  his  Christian 
character;  and  whatever  removes  the  tarnish  from  such 
metal  as  that  of  which  it  is  formed,  polishes  pure  gold. 
Superior  worth  and  solidity  therefore  begin  to  display  them- 
selves by  a  surface  of  superior  brightness,  and  under  such 
circumstances  real  religion  assumes  a  peculiar  nobleness 
both  in  aspect,  language,  and  demeanour. 

"  I  found,  in  a  small  circle  of  religious  travellers  at  Na- 
ples" said  my  friend,  "  a  new  tone  of  manners  and  conver- 
sation. I  was  received  among  persons  accustomed  to  eti- 
quette with  the  greatest  frankness  and  familiarity;  and  had 
never  realized  so  strongly  the  force  of  a  favourite  expres- 
sion of  the  New  Testament:  'Where  the  spirit  of  God  is, 
there  is  liberty.'  I  found  access  not  merely  to  their  lodg- 
ings and  their  acquaintance,  but  to  their  hearts.     And  the 


PRIN08. 


PIETY  AND  FOREIGN  TRAVEL. 


221 


levoted  to  the  present,  how  in- 
appear.  Whatever  their  age» 
cs  of  their  journey,  they  are 
ispecw.  They  regard  things 
ire,  not  as  they  pretend  to  be ; 
6  right  and  the  wrong  use  of 
fered  to  Ihem,  and  derive  real 
jted  by  the  crowd,  while  they 
asonable  expectations  founded 
ithers.  They  do  not  of  course 
r  times  that  are  past,  because 
»f  most  consequence  to  them- 
n  former  generations  to  exalt 
ts  and  actions  to-day.  A  young 
pursues  the  great  objects  of  his 
es  and  discouragements,  and  to 

require  great  decision,  resolu- 
rapidly  ripen  his  heart  and  his 
d  more  experienced,  while  sur- 
[taly  presents,  feel  that  there 
ess  and  care  over  their  feelings, 
1  are  greatly  increased;  while 
m  society  are  at  the  same  time 
the  Christian's  fear,  or  awakens 
thibit  more  clearly  his  Christian 
emoves  the  tarnish  from  such 
is  formed,  polishes  pure  gold, 
therefore  begin  to  display  them- 
rior  brightness,  and  under  such 

assumes  a  peculiar  nobleness 
td  demeanour. 

le  of  religious  travellers  at  Na- 
Bw  tone  of  manners  and  conver- 
ong  persons  accustomed  to  eti- 
[ikness  and  familiarity;  and  had 
the  force  of  a  favourite  expres- 
t :  '  Where  the  spirit  of  God  is, 
access  not  merely  to  their  lodg- 
>,  but  to  their  hearte.     And  the 


formalities  of  fashionable  intercourse,  with  all  the  falsehood 
of  selfishness,  being  discarded,  it  was  delightful  to  observe 
how  the  mind  made  progress  in  knowledge,  while  the  heart 
found  full  exercise  for  its  affections.  Less  swayed  than 
other  travellers  in  matters  of  taste,  by  current  ideas,  their 
opinions  of  scenes  and  objects  in  nature  and  art  were  gen- 
erally more  just,  because  more  independent;  while  their 
impressions  were  more  distinct,  and  their  descriptions  more 
vivid.  la  relation  to  men,  also,  they  had  generally  some- 
thing new  and  valuable  to  communicate :  for  having  their 
attention  directed  after  what  has  merit,  or  to  discover  per- 
sons on  whom  they  might  confer  benefits,  they  were  often 
found  to  have  observed  characters  which  others  pass  by 
witliout  heeding.  False  opinions  are  abundant  all  around 
them,  and  are  so  much  in  vogue,  that  some  will  receive  and 
pass  them  off  as  sound,  for  mere  fashion's  sake ;  but  they 
feel  like  Bunyan's  pilgrims  in  Vanity  Fair ;  and  when  such 
wares  are  offered  them,  are  ready  to  reject  them  and  to  ex- 
claim,—' We  buy  the  truth.'" 

What  a  contrast,  what  a  delightful  contrast  it  seems,  after 
witnessing  the  gaudy  and  pompous,  but  unmeaning  cere- 
monies of  a  Neapolitan  carnival,  or  having  the  hermit  of  the 
grotto  of  Posilipo  shake  his  box  of  coppers  at  you,  to  close 
the  day  with  a  circle  of  Christian  friends,  where  the  fire  of 
the  purest  love  consumes  all  memory  of  difference  in  sect 
and  country,  among  those  who  possess  one  faith  and  one 
hope. 

The  different  ways  in  which  persons  of  exalted  character 
are  affected  by  foreign  travel  are  often  various,  but  almost 
always  important.  One  receives  an  impression,  from  the 
majesty  of  some  ruin,  of  the  transitory  nature  of  life ;  while 
his  companion  is  reproved  by  it  for  the  little  he  has  accom- 
plished. Some  have  made  the  people,  whom  they  have  seen 
degraded  to  the  dust,  the  subjects  of  their  daily  prayers ; 
while  others  have  been  filled  with  the  idea  that  America 
possesses  incalculable  advantages  for  establishing  a  name 
and  a  praise  in  the  earth.  One  will  ever  after  regard  in  a 
more  important  light  all  the  means  by  which  intelligence  is 
diff'-sed,  and  fix  much  of  his  attention  for  the  remainder  of 


01 


/' 


222 


TBI  SPUHOt. 


his  life  on  the  minds  and  hearts  of  the  young,  and  the  books, 
the  examples,  and  schools  by  which  they  are  to  be  edu- 
cated;  while  to  another  will  afterward  seem  eye' P«"f"» 
those  powerful  motives  to  action,  which  are  excited  by  the 
contemplation  of  heathen  magnificence  among  the  unmean- 
ing splendour  with  which  a  degenerate  taste  endeavours  to 

eclipse  it.  .  ■,  e  <«.<> 

Nothing  is  pleasamer  than  to  meet  with  a  person  ol  true 
piety,  who  has  returned  from  a  foreign  tour,  with  such  im- 
pressions as  we  must  expect  them  to  bring  horn*,  whea  their 
circumstances  have  been  favourable  for  receiving  them.    Ig- 
norance of  foreign  languages  and  habits,  too  rapid  travel- 
line,  or  infirm  health,  may  prevent  them ;  but  if  circumstances 
have  been  favourable,  you  may  see  a  gratifying  change  m 
them,  and  every  thing  they  can  control  around.     One  such 
person  will  spice  the  conversation  of  a  whole  neighbour- 
hood, and  sometimes  turn  the  minds  of  hundreds  into  better 
channels.    His  library  is  placed  on  a  new  footing,  he  re- 
views and  improves  some  of  his  old  opinions,  he  looks  upon 
things  about  him  with  new  eyes,  for  even  trivial  affairs  re- 
mind him  of  great  duties  heretofore  underrated.     The  trav- 
eller, perhaps,  who  passes  the  residence  of  such  a  man, 
even  years  after  his  death,  admires  some  mstituiion  for 
public  benefit  which  owes  its  origin  to  his  piety  and  his 

foreign  tour.  ,  , 

Many  persons  have  probably  seen  in  the  newspapers  ad- 
vertisemente  of  "  Dr.  Sweet.-Natural  Bone-setter.      It  is 
not  everybody  who  has  met  him,  or  any  of  his  remarkable 
family.     How  many  there  are  of  the  name,  or  how  inany 
there  have  been  famed  for  peculiar  skill  in  anatomy,  I  have 
not  been  able  to  ascertain,  because  there  is  uncertainty  anU 
some  discrepancy  among  the  family  traditions.    One  account 
I  have  heard,  says,  that  the  ancestor  of  the  American  Sweets 
was  a  celebrated  surgeon  to  the  king,  regularly  bred  to  the 
profession  in  England,  but  disaffected  on  some  account,  and 
a  volumary  exile  to  the  colonies,  who  chose  one  of  the  islands 
in  Providence  River,  in  Rhode-Island,  for  his  abode.    There, 
.devoting  himself  to  the  education  of  his  children,  he  taught 
them  the  principles  of  his  own  science,  which  they  after- 


b 

si 

CI 

tl 
ai 
in 
w 
m 
ol 
di 

Ol 

d( 

so 
ac 
al 
It' 
be 
w; 
tei 
dii 
thi 
an 
su 
II 
ac 
pe 
pa 

do 
lat 

an 
am 

Ye 

ne^ 


'Vf 


PMNOf. 

18  of  the  young,  and  the  books, 
jy  which  they  are  to  be  edu- 
l  afterward  seem  ever  present 
!tion,  which  are  excited  by  the 
ignificence  among  the  unmean- 
legenerate  taste  endeavours  to 

I  to  meet  with  a  person  of  true 
n  a  foreign  tour,  with  such  ini- 
them  to  bring  homts,  when  their 
jurable  for  receiving  them.    Ig- 
es  and  habits,  too  rapid  travel- 
svent  them ;  but  if  circumstances 
nay  see  a  gratifying  change  in 
can  control  around.     One  such 
srsation  of  a  whole  neighbour- 
le  minds  of  hundreds  into  better 
)laced  on  a  new  footing,  he  re- 
f  his  old  opinions,  he  looks  upon 
eyes,  for  even  trivial  affairs  re- 
retofore  underrated.     Tlie  trav- 
the  residence  of  such  a  man, 
[j,  admires  some  institution  for 
its  origin  to  his  piety  and  his 

ably  seen  in  the  newspapers  ad- 
3t,— Natural  Bone-setter."     It  is 
t  him,  or  any  of  his  remarkable 
are  of  the  name,  or  how  many 
peculiar  skill  in  anatomy,  I  have 
because  there  is  uncertainty  and 
le  family  traditions.    One  account 
ancestor  of  the  American  Sweets 
lo  the  king,  regularly  bred  to  the 
disaffected  on  some  account,  and 
mies,  who  chose  one  of  the  islands 
)de-Island,  for  his  abode.    There, 
ucation  of  his  children,  he  taught 
B  own  science,  which  they  after- 


A  If ATCRAL  BONI'SETTBR. 


MS 


wards  made  a  study  by  means  of  his  library.  From  this 
beginning,  the  family  are  said  to  have  had  a  strong  propen- 
sity to  anatomy;  and  for  several  generations,  if  we  might 
credit  report,  individuals  of  both  sexes  have  often  amused 
themselves  in  childhood  with  dislocating  the  joints  of  kittens 
and  chickens,  and  setting  them  again ;  and  more  humanely, 
in  mature  life,  while  engaged  in  the  labours  of  the  field  or 
workshop,  by  reducing  displaced  bones  to  their  sockets  for 
miles  around,  and  for  prices  so  low  that  the  mere  mention 
of  them  has  often  excited  the  patient's  laughter.  The  pro- 
duction of  this  latter  symptom  is  perhaps  the  most  extra- 
ordinary fact  relating  to  their  practice,  and  gives  them  a 
double  claim  to  their  surname. 

The  individual  of  this  family  whom  I  met  with  this  sea- 
son, was  of  a  different  branch,  and  had  only  the  following 
account  to  give  of  his  history.  "  The  Sweets,  I  believe,  have 
always  been  bone-setters  from  before  the  memory  of  man. 
It's  a  natural  gift,  for  wise  purposes  bestowed,  and  should 
be  employed  with  a  proper  sense  of  dependance.  My  father 
was  a  physician,  and  the  first  surgical  operation  I  ever  at- 
tempted was  at  fourteen  years  of  age,  when  I  reduced  a 
dislocated  thumb  for  a  patient  who  applied  for  aid  during 
the  absence  of  my  father.  After  this  I  felt  somewhat  bold, 
and  made  a  number  of  successful  experiments,  studying 
such  scientific  books  as  I  could  obtain.  I  believe  the  skill 
I  have  is  in  a  great  measure  a  natural  gift,  and  that  I  am 
accountable  for  the  use  of  it.  I  have  set  a  good  many  poor 
people's  bones  for  nothing ;  but  I  calculate  to  make  the  rich 
pay  for  it,  though  not  very  exorbitantly." 

"  Well,  doctor,"  said  a  man  who  recognised  him,  "  how 
do  you  find  them  at  the  South  f  You've  been  to  the  South 
lately,  haven't  you  ?" 

"  Why,  yes,  I  was  down  into  the  State  of  New-Jersey, 
and  in  Pennsylvania  some  :— why,  a  good  many  lame  hips, 
and  so  on." 

"  Well,  did  you  go  among  the  broken  bones  in  New- 
York  ?" 

"  Yes,  I  find,  wherever  I  go  the  second  time,  that  they  get 
new  bones  out  about  as  fast  as  I  put  'em  in,  so  as  to  keep 


nil 


'  '-J^^V 


324 


THI  8PR1M0S. 


me  to  work.   But  I  like  it  well  enough  as  long  as  the  floors 
don't  break  down.     When  I  was  at  Danbury,  in  Connecti- 
cut,  they'd  got  wind  of  my  coming,  and  collected  all  the 
sufferers  they  could  find  in  the  neighbourhood  mto  one 
room.    It  was  up  stairs,  over  a  hatter's  shop;  about  fifty 
men  were  assembled  there  together,  full  half  of  them,  as 
was  said,  being  patients,  and  the  rest  spectators.     The 
doctors  had  come  to  see  me  work ;  for  they  didn't  believe  I 
could  do  any  thing  or  knew  any  thing.     Well,  as  there  was 
a  good  deal  of  work  to  be  done,  and  no  time  to  spare,  I  ad- 
vanced to  a  man  in  the  corner  that  had  his  shoulder  out, 
and  had  been  pronounced  incurable.     I  took  hold  on  it  and 
set  it,  and  told  him  to  put  on  his  hat,  which  he  did ;  and  this 
elated  him  so  much  that  he  began  to  whirl  his  arm  round 
for  joy,  and  to  show  how  well  he  felt,  rigiit  before  the  doctors 
and  all,  when  I  began  to  feel  the  floor  sway  away  under 
me,  and  down  we  all  went  into  a  heap,  maimed  ones  and 
all.    I  slid  and  fell,  as  we  reckoned  afterward,  about  twenty- 
seven  foot,  and  got  up  among  the  rest  in  the  hatter's  shop. 
What  was  wonderful  about  it  was,  that  though  the  floor  set- 
Ued  down  principally  at  one  corner,  while  the  opposite  one 
didn't  give  way,  it  held  together,  and  so  kept  us  out  of  the 
hatter's  kettles,  which  were  full  of  hot  water ;  and  though  a 
large  square  cast-iron  stove  fell  down  among  us,  it  didn  t 
hurt  anybody.    There  were  only  three  or  four  bones  put 
out  by  the  accident ;  and  when  I  had  set  these  and  the  old 
ones,  hips,  shoulders,  elbows,  and  all,  I  had  to  set  off"  for 
another  town,  where  I  had  an  engagement  to  do  more  work 
of  the  like  nature.    They  had  a  proper  laugh  at  the  doctors 
at  Danbury,  telling  them  they  had  set  the  trap  to  kill  me  ; 
but  I  told  them  that  if  they  had  known  the  danger,  they 
would  not  have  put  their  own  heads  into  it." 

There  is  a  class  of  single  gentlemen  found  among  the 
great  swarms  of  travellers  which  every  year  pass  over  our 
country,  who  seem  to  be  ever  in  search  of  solitude  and 
tranquillity,  as  much  as  others  are  for  crowds  and  tumults ; 
and  who,  although  they  are  often  borne  along  by  the  cur- 
rent, actually  enjoy  many  hours  of  loneliness.  They  are 
generally  individuals  who  have  had  more  than  common  ex- 


■'''■^-  ■• —  ■■II 


PRIMOS. 

11  enough  as  long  as  the  floors 
was  at  Danbury,  in  Connecti- 
joming,  and  collected  all  the 
the  neighbourhood  into  one 
;r  a  hatter's  shop;  about  fifty 
together,  full  half  of  them,  as 
nd  the  rest  spectators.     The 
work ;  for  they  didn't  believe  I 
iny  thing.     Well,  as  there  was 
me,  and  no  time  to  spare,  I  ad- 
•rner  that  had  his  shoulder  out, 
curable.     I  took  hold  on  it  and 
his  hat,  which  he  did ;  and  this 
B  began  to  whirl  his  arm  round 
1  he  felt,  rigiit  before  the  doctors 
;el  the  floor  sway  away  under 
into  a  heap,  maimed  ones  and 
ckoned  afterward,  about  twenty- 
ig  the  rest  in  the  hatter's  shop, 
it  was,  that  though  the  floor  set- 
;  corner,  while  the  opposite  one 
;ther,  and  so  kept  us  out  of  the 
full  of  hot  water ;  and  though  a 
fell  down  among  us,  it  didn't 
e  only  three  or  four  bones  put 
irhen  I  had  set  these  and  the  old 
ITS,  and  all,  I  had  to  set  off"  for 
an  engagement  to  do  more  work 
ad  a  proper  laugh  at  the  doctors 
hey  had  set  the  trap  to  kill  me ; 
ley  had  known  the  danger,  they 
ivn  heads  into  it." 
^le  gentlemen  found  among  the 
which  every  year  pass  over  our 
ever  in  search  of  solitude  and 
hers  are  for  crowds  and  tumults  ; 
e  often  borne  along  by  the  cur- 
hours  of  loneliness.     They  are 
have  had  more  than  common  ex- 


MODGBT  TRATBLLERS* 


22ft 


perience  in  ihe  world,  and  yet  through  the  influence  of  good 
education  or  good  early  examples,  have  a  taste  that  seeks 
something  superior  to  its  follies.  Their  previous  life  has  ren- 
dered them  thoughtful  without  souring  their  tempers,  and  dis* 
posed  them  to  shun  rather  than  condemn  the  society  they 
cannot  approve.  I  speak  not  here  of  the  solitude  which  re* 
tires  to  its  chamber,  and  when  it  has  shut  the  door,  re- 
proaches  Providence  for  embittering  what  discontent  re* 
fuses  to  enjoy.  Those  of  whom  I  speak  are  found  on  the 
hdl-tops  at  sunrise,  in  a  sultry  hour  among  the  shady  rocks 
and  wilds,  or  meditating  in  the  fields  at  eventide. 

Isaac  Walton  describes  your  true  angler  as  very  humane 
and  friendly.    He  and  his  anglers  were  drawn  from  persons 
of  this  class.     It  is  not  angling  they  seek,— it  is  the  enjoys 
went  of  solitude,  or  rather  the  society  of  nature  {  and  the 
fishing-rod  is  only  an  apology  for  staying  from  home  by  the 
day  or  the  week.     We  are  to  blame  for  rendering  field* 
sports  in  some  measure  necessary  to  many  persons  of  in» 
telligence,  taste,  and  leisure.     We  OMght  not  to  reproach 
them  for  being  found  in  solitary  scenes,  even  though  they 
are  unarmed  with  guns  or  fishing-tackle.     As  it  is  not  law- 
ful to  kill  the  inferior  animals  for  sport,  but  as  it  is  perfectly 
proper  and  indeed  useful  to  frequent  our  wild  scenes,  and 
to  enjoy  the  beauties  of  nature,  we  ought  to  furnish  the 
fairest  and  finest  with  things  necessary  to  comfort  and  con- 
venience, and  rather  approve  than  despise  those  who  select 
them  for  reading  or  meditation.    To  no  unknown  individual 
in  Italy  do  I  feel  more  obliged,  than  to  him  who  constructed 
a  rustic  seat  on  the  tall  rocks  opposite  the  falls  of  Terni, 
thatched  it  with  boughs  and  cushioned  it  with  leaves ;  and 
no  example  should  I  sooner  recommend  to  the  friend  of  that 
class  of  travellers  of  which  I  am  speaking.     Their  choice 
of  the  retreats  of  the  forest  and  shore,  as  I  remarked,  is 
owing  to  their  love  for  the  spots  where  the  fish  and  the 
birds  resort,  and  not  to  the  love  of  slaughter,  although  there 
are  persons  of  a  different  character  who  delight  only  in  the 
shedding  of  blood. 

These  tasteful  travellers  may  be  distinguished  from  the 
common  herd  by  an  experienced  eye.     They  keep,  as  it 

20 


■1^; 


I 


SS6 


THE  SPRINGS. 


were,  alonir  the  green  maririn  of  the  road,  while  ihey  pur- 
Tts  general  'course ,  they  .a.uler  a  .ttle  up  the  cj^l 
Talleys  and  streams  that  open  to  the  right  and  left,  and  the 
IWe  of  the  trees  and  the  dashing  of  water  are  for  them. 
While  others,  perhaps,  of  their  own  party,  are  complammg 
of  coarse  food  and  hard  couches,  the.r  appetites  are  sharp- 
enedTy  exercise,  or  they  are  enjoying  refreshing  slumbers 

•"  I ZZ  It;  in  a  house  when  the  family  returned  from 
their  annual  tour;  and  from  their  conversation  found,  that 
wh  e  soTe  of  the  individuals  brought  back  only  records  of 
wasted  tTme!  and  the  observations  of  the  most  common 
mS  a   barren  as  the  beaten  roads  they  had  passed  over 

others  had  come  home  with  a  store  o^ --J^^' sket  t 
might  serve,  like  a  hortus  siccus,  or  a  well-filled  sketch- 
book for  the  gratification  of  themselves  and  heir  friends 
for  a  year  to  come,  and  the  value  of  which  might  last  for  a 

"t  maTofus  t  brought  up  unfit  for  the  wodd  we  live 
in  thaTa  great  part  of  society,  in  their  pursuit  of  happiness, 
se'emt  s?lnd  Ufe  either  in  seekin,  for  the  knowledge  they 
ought  to  have  imbibed  in  youth,  or  amid  the  frivolities  or 
the  V  ces  which  are  its  only  substitutes.  This  appears  to 
be  a  general  picture  of  society  among  us.  We  do  not 
strongfy  real  Jthe  fact  unless  we  travel ,  and  then  we  find 
our  own  mindsand  those  of  our  companions  belraymg  at  eve^ 

step  some  strong  evidence  of  deficiency.    I  sat  in  an  elegant 
Soad-car,  wi^h  a  large  company  of  travellers  several  of 
whom  were  unknown  to  me.     Why  were  we  silent  after  a 
few  remarks  on  indifferent  topics?    Because  we  were  igno- 
rant.     When  we  had  seated  ourselves  at  the  dinner-table, 
however,  there  was  no  lack  of  conversation  or  of  cheerful- 
ness? and  I  presume  the  chief  part  of  .he  pleasure  enjoyed 
ly  ihe  party  that  day  was  during  the  time  devoted  to  eating. 
There  we  were  at  home.    Ah !  how  much  of  the  enjoyment 
of  home  then,  with  the  mass  of  P«°P'«' "«  *^.  ^"J^^^, 
connected  with  a  source  not  more  exalted?     Some  of  us 
had  been  curious  to  know  some  simple  facts  concerning  dif- 
ferent objects  aroun-:,  but  .ither  presumed  on  the  ignorance 


■^ 


IN08. 

»f  the  road,  while  they  pur- 
wander  a  little  up  the  cool 
to  the  right  and  left,  and  the 
liing  of  water  are  for  them, 
own  party,  are  complaining 
les,  their  appetites  are  sharp- 
enjoying  refreshing  slumbers 

then  the  family  returned  from 
heir  conversation  found,  that 
brought  back  only  records  of 
at  ions  of  the  most  common 
1  roads  they  had  passed  over, 
I  store  of  recollections,  which 
ecus,  or  a  well-filled  sketch- 
ihemselves  and  their  friends 
alue  of  which  might  last  for  a 

up  unfit  for  the  world  we  live 
■,  in  their  pursuit  of  happiness, 
eekinfr  for  the  knowledge  they 
)uih,  or  amid  the  frivolities  or 
substitutes.     This  appears  to 
ciety  among  us.     We  do  not 
;s  we  travel ;  and  then  we  find 
r  companions  betraying  at  every 
deficiency.    I  sat  in  an  elegant 
mpany  of  travellers,  several  of 
Why  were  we  silent  after  a 
jpics  1    Because  we  were  igno- 
il  ourselves  at  the  dinner-table, 
of  conversation  or  of  cheerful- 
lief  part  of  the  pleasure  enjoyed 
uring  the  time  devoted  to  eating. 
i\\\  how  much  of  the  enjoyment 
IS  of  people,  are  we  to  fear,  is 
31  more  exalted  ?     Some  of  us 
ome  simple  facts  concerning  dif- 
ither  presumed  on  the  ignorance 


PAGAN  SOVOATION. 

of  our  companions,  or  feared  to  expose  our  own  by  making 
them  subjects  of  conversation;  and  so  we  jogged  on  in  silence, 
M  truly  travellers  as  the  horses  which  drew  us  along,  and 
domg  what  only  fashion  saves  from  ridicule:  that  is, 
coursing  over  the  country  without  definite  object,  and  with- 
out the  least  chance  of  intellectual  improvement.  On  reach- 
mg  the  place  where  we  were  to  separate,  I  felt  so  much 
ashamed  of  my  companions,  that  I  was  determined  to  avoid 
bidding  any  of  them  farewell:  but  I  found  they  had  appa- 
rently  formed  the  same  resolution  about  me,  and  thought 
me,  as  I  appeared,  and  as  I  greatly  fear  I  am,  as  great  a 
dunce  at  travelling  as  any  of  them. 

Oh,  had  I  been  taught,. in  my  childhood,  what  I  so  much 
desired  to  know,  the  names,  nature,  and  uses  of  the  tree* 
and  plants  by  which  we  passed  that  day,  or  the  composition 
of  the  soils  which  produced  them,  or  a  little  of  the  princi- 
pies  of  engineering  to  understand  the  constructions  and  exca- 
vations of  the  railroad,  or  been  informed  of  the  history,  pro- 
ducts, or  inhabitants  of  that  part  of  the  country  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  feel  an  interest  in  them ;  or  had  any  of  my 
companions  come  so  furnished  with  materials  for  conversan 
tion,  that  day  had  not  been  the  source  of  pain  rather  than 
of  pleasure,  nor  have  become  the  cause  of  so  much  sell* 
condemnation. 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 

^hl  TVmn?'^"^S  E'^"'""""  !"  a  Christian  Land-Improvemrot. 
Pron!?^F.?"""t~^""/S*'  °^  '"'empewte  H«bit.  in  our  Country- 
fal  rLo.^  *"  V  "' f^-^'g"  Travel-Our  own  Moral  and  Phy.i, 
hom^Pi  •'"'~^^''^t''«*"'=*  "f  8°"^  Men  in  making  TraveU  al 
home  Pleasing  and  C«eful-A  CSrd-party  in  a  Steamboat. 

I  CAN  hardly  read  a  prospectus  of  a  new  academy,  or  see 
the  advertisement  of  a  college,  without  being  reminded  in  a 
pamtul  manner  of  the  perversions  practised  in  my  own  edtt. 


THE  SPRINeS. 

cation.    Truly  1  was  led  by  a  thorny,  a  crooked,  tnd  a  dan- 
ferous  way!     Why  I  did  not  turn  back,  and  run  out  of  that 
mud  road,  I  can  hardly  tell.    I  remember  I  was  strongly 
tempted,  when  I  found  some  of  my  favourite  companions  de- 
■erting  it  one   after  another,  and  saw  the  grassy  walks 
of  agriculture,  and  the  sparkling  paths  of.  ^usmess  some 
times  offering  strong  attractions.     It  is  high  time  that  we 
should  realize  that  certain  sorts  of  knowledge  may  pervert 
the  heart  while  they  fill  the  head.     Look  at  history,  fo r  ex- 
.mple,  and  vemember,  that  not  we,  but  some  of  the  worst 
men  of  heathen  times  are  in  fact,  at  this  moment,  teachmg 
our  children  their  own  views  of  past  events,  m  our  own 
■chools  and  under  our  own  eyes.    Do  we  not  put  the  classi- 
cal  writers  in  the  place  of  schoolmasters  and  parents,  and 
make  the  young  admire  what  they  commend      And  whose 
views  do  the  ancient  writers  maintain?     All  of  them  the 
views  of  heathenism;  and  not  a  few  of  them  are  mere 
echoes  of  the  selfish  or  profligate  rulers  ;*h»  Patronised 
them  to  secure  their  praise,  and  dictated  what  they  shouW 
withhold,  what  record,  and  what  pervert.     0««ht  not  such 
pernicious  influences  at  least  to  be  counteracted  t     Ought 
S^Uhe  teacher  who  enlarges  on  the  beauties  of  Virgil  and 
Caesar,  Ovid  and  Horace,  to  condemn  the  pnnciples  and 
^:re's  they  so  often    applaud,  and  --«»  f  y^"-- 
ideas  which  the  pupil  must  otherwise  imbibe  T    S"™«;'J^ 
or  other  is  to  be  taken  of  history  by  every  one  who  reads. 
There  is  a  right  and  there  is  a  wrong  vew,  and  they  are 
Sy  inconsistent  with  each  other     The  splendours  of 
Greek  and  Roman  heroes  long  absorbed  my  mind ;  and  for 
years  I  had  no  taste  for  the  view  of  history  given  by  the 
Spti  res.     The  superintending  power  o  the  Creator  was 
not  present  to  my  mind  when  1  read  of  Juno  and  'TupU*', 
Sie  Fates  and  Fortune.     It  has  cost  me  long  and  violent 
struggles  to  divest  myself  of  the  ta.te,  as  well  as  of  some 
of  the  views,  which  I  imbibed  from  my  education  at  a  gram- 
mar-school and  college.  ,      ,    •    .u     ..»»„i. 
But  now,  how  sublime  as  well  as  how  lovely  is  the  aspsct 
which  history  presents !     Miserable,  undefined  Fortune  has 
bteeu  baniphed^and  pains  my  heait  no  longer  with  the  gloomy 


SPRINeS. 

a  thorny,  a  crooked,  and  a  dan- 
»t  turn  back,  and  run  out  of  that 
.  I  remember  I  was  strongly 
of  my  favourite  companions  de- 
er, and  saw  the  grassy  walks 
rkling  paths  of  business  some- 
nions.  It  is  high  time  that  we 
Boris  of  knowledge  may  pervert 

head.  Look  at  history,  for  ex- 
i  not  we,  but  some  of  the  worst 
in  fact,  at  this  moment,  teaching 
ews  of  past  events,  in  our  own 
1  eyes.    Do  we  not  put  the  classi- 

schoolmasters  and  parents,  and 
hat  they  commend?    And  whose 
»rs  maintain?     All  of  them  the 
d  not  a  few  of  them  are  mere 
profligate  rulers  who  patronised 
ie,  and  dictated  wliat  they  shouW 
d  what  pervert.     Ought  not  such 
east  to  be  counteracted?     Ought 
ges  on  the  beauties  of  Virgil  and 
,  to  condemn  the  principles  and 
pplaud,  and  correct  the  erroneous 
St  otherwise  imbibe  T     Some  view 
[  history  by  every  one  who  reads, 
ere  is  a  wrong  view,  and  they  are 
each  other.     The  splendours  of 
I  long  absorbed  my  mind ;  and  for 

the  view  of  history  given  by  the 
itending  power  of  the  Creator  was 
firhen  1  read  of  Juno  and  Jupiter, 

It  has  cost  me  long  and  violent 
If  of  the  taste,  as  well  as  of  some 
)tbed  from  my  education  at  a  graw- 

as  well  as  how  lovely  is  the  aspsct 

Miserable,  undefined  Fortune  ha» 

my  heait  no  longer  with  the  gloomy 


TEMPERANCE. 


329 


reflection  that  the  disposer  of  my  lot  is  bhndfolded;  while 
the  God  of  Abraham  presides  over  the  destinies  of  n:aii, 
whose  interests  are  as  important  as  they  were  in  past  ages, 
and  none  more  so  than  my  own.     I  am  now  able  to  enjoy 
greater  pleasure  in  contemplating  nations  at  peace,  ami  ob- 
serving  the  progress  of  .efii.ement,  than  I  ever  derived  from 
the  confused  noise  of  the  warrior  and  garments  rolled  m 
blood.     Just  and  delightful  pictures  of  peace  and  its  bless- 
ings we  find  in  the  Scriptures,  at!  war  we  see  tn  its  own 
deformity.     Then  let  us  not  pi  >   < .  i  scenes  of  carnage  and 
barbarity,  of  pollution  and  crime,  to  our  children,  at  least 
without  removing  a  part  of  ih-v.  false  veil  whicii  heathen 
poets  and  historians  have  spread  over  them.    If  our  parents 
and  teachers  had  taught  us  less  of  strife  and  the  dehghts  of 
victory,  certain  it  is  they  would  have  had  less  difficulty  in 
governing  us,  and  we  less  in  controlling  ourselves. 

There  is  one  continual  source  of  pleasure  to  the  traveller 
in  our  country,  let  his  course  be  turned  in  almost  any  direc 
tion :  that  is,  the  evident  decline  of  intemperance,     bven 
when  I  have  been  passing  through  places  with  which  I  was 
least  acquainted,  the  evidences  I  have  found  of  the  diminu- 
tion of  this  evil  have  seemed  like  springs  in  the  wilderness  v 
but  in  regions  which  I  had  known  in  less  favourable  times,, 
the  changes  are  so  evident  and  so  numerous  as  to  excite 
great  pleasure,  I  hope  not  unmingled  with  gratitude  to  Hinv 
who  has  said  to  the  flood  of  devastation,  "  Here  shall  thy 
proud  waves  be  stayed."     How  many  a  pang  of  keen  sym- 
pathetic misery  hare  I  been  spared  on  my  tour,  by  the  par- 
tial scotching  of  that  serpent,  that  infernal  demon,  whiclv 
was  so  lately  ranging  unchecked  through  our  country  r 
How  blessed  is  the  deliverance  from  such  a  monster!     It 
is  with  anguish  now  that  I  recall  the  days  when  l  so  often 
dreaded  to  inquire,  in  a  family  circle,  or  in  a  public  festival, 
for  some  one  I  missed  from  his  place,  lest  the  mention  of 
his  name  should  wrest  from  tortured  lips  a  confession  thaf 
would  scorch  the  cheeks  and  scarify  the  heart. 

The  late  prevalenceof  intemperance- 1  trace  m  part  to  the- 
broad  foundations  laid  in  the  times  precedmg  oup  own^ 
The  close  of  the  war  left  the  country  in  an  immoral  cott- 

2Q* 


m 


■■  -rTO^iJvmjriPW^^r 


sso 


THE  spr.ixo*. 


dition.     The  (lisbaniling  of  iJu;  imny  converted  our  villn(?es 
almost  iiilt.  camps,  so  far  as  llie  habilH  of  men  were  con- 
cerned ,  and  the  vicious  jtiaciiceH  of  at.itiiers  co-operatmg 
with  the  desultory  employment  of  leisure  time,  which  is  natu- 
rally produced  l.y  a  long  period  of  war  and  public  calannties, 
stamped  a  low  character  upon  »oci(!ty  thiough  a  great  part 
of  the  country.    I'ublic  calamities  had  proved  fatal,  in  a  thou- 
sand instances,  to  private  fortunes  ;  and  many  of  tho^^e  per- 
son*-, who  miglit  otherwise  have  possessed  the  means  ol  ob- 
taining an  education,  were  cut  oH' from  it  by  poverty,  or  by  the 
prolonged  depreciation  of  learning  in  the  public  estimation. 
Gunpowder,  bayonets,  soldiers,  and  military  skill  wt^re  ob- 
jects of  praise  and  admiration ;  and  as  taste  and  literature 
could  mit  purchase  these,  they  were  but  lightly  estenned. 
Of  course,  peace  found  the  country  abounding  in  many  young 
and  empty  heads,  and,  what  was  worse,  with  morals  corrupt 
beyond  their  years.     It  was  the  tendency  of  such  a  state  of 
things  to  honour  the  tavern  and  to  break  up  the  family  cir- 
cle ;  and  in  many  a  town  and  village  the  former  was  the 
great  resort  of  fathers  and  sons,  while  the  mothers  were  too 
often  left  to  solitary  regret  and  tears  among  the  broken 
fragments  of  the  latter.     Who  does  not  remember  some- 
tiiing  of  such  a  stale  of  society?     Who,  at  least,  has  not 
perceived  traces  of  it   in  the  Bacchanalian   stories,  and 
tne  tales  of  village  wit,  whose  narration  to  a  later  generation 
has  often  served  to  depict  the  tavern  in  colours  and  asso- 
ciations too  attractive  to  the  children  of  a  reformed  or  so- 
bered father?     To  the  discredU  of  a  state  of  society  now 
fast  wearing  out  of  fashion,  a  large  part  of  our  traditionary 
narratives  and  humour,  and  sketches  of  local  biography,  are 
mingled  with  the  oaths  and  intoxication  of  the  inn,  or  the 
more   dangerous    language  and   example*  of  fashionable 
dinner-parties  and  driaking  bouts  in  city  life. 

I  know  a  large  town,  now  distinguished  for  its  orderly  as 
well  as  intelligent  and  refined  society,  in  which,  forty  years 
ago,  or  even  less,  social  evening  parties  among  parents  of 
both  sexes,  were  unknown ;  and  where  a  father  of  a  family, 
who  set  the  example  of  assisting  to  entertain  the  female 
visitew  of  his  wife,  had  to  bear  the  brunt  of  all  the  tavern- 


-r- 


T 


le  army  converted  our  villnijes 
ll\e  hiil)il»  of  men  were  eon- 
•tices  of  aultliers  co-operating 
il  of  leisure  time,  which  in  natu- 
iil  of  wiir  ami  public  calamities, 
»ii  society  tliiough  a  great  part 
iiies  had  proved  fatal,  in  a  thou- 
tunes  ;  and  many  of  iho^ie  per- 
ave  possesHcd  llie  nieanH  of  ob- 
l  oH'Irom  it  by  poverty,  or  by  llie 
irniiig  in  the  public  ettiiniation. 
■rs,  and  military  skill  were  ob- 
un  ;  and  as  taste  and  literature 
iiey  were  but  lightly  e»te»  ined. 
juntry  abounding  in  many  young 
was  worse,  with  morals  corrupt 
the  tendency  of  such  a  state  of 
and  to  break  up  the  family  cir- 
and  village  the  former  was  the 
ons,  while  the  mothers  were  too 
,  and  tears  among  the  brokea 
Vho  does  not  remember  some- 
aciety?     Who,  at  least,  has  not 
the  Bacchanalian   stories,  and 
se  narration  to  a  later  generation 
the  tavern  in  colours  and  asso- 
e  children  of  a  reformed  or  so- 
redit  of  a  state  of  society  now 
,  a  large  part  of  our  traditionary 
sketches  of  local  biography,  are 
id  intoxication  of  the  inn,  or  the 
!  and   examples  of  fashionable 
bouts  in  city  life. 
w  distinguished  for  its  orderly  as 
led  society,  in  which,  forty  years 
veiling  parties  ansong  parents  of 
;  and  where  a  father  of  a  family, 
assisting  to  entertain  the  female 
bear  the  brunt  of  all  the  tavem- 


PLKASIRKS  OF  CANAI.  TIIA\  KI.MMI. 


231 


haunters  of  the  place,  that  is,  of  all  the  fathers  of  his  ac- 
quaintance, as  a  bold  and  preposterous  innovator.  Such  a 
fact  will  hardly  be  credited ;  but  those  who  can  recollect 
some  years  i)ii(k,  will  be  forced  to  admit  its  proliability. 

in  liints  like  those  was  plained  the  habit  of  intemper- 
ance, 1  might  rather  say  the  fiishion  of  intoxication:  that 
bitter  root  which  has  yielded  such  deadly  fiuit,  and  has 
been  now,  at  last,  partly  plucked  up  with  sue  h  diflicully. 

Let  us  not  overrate  the  iinportmice  of  a  tour  in  Europe, 
so  niii(!li  as  to  lose  our  relish  for  the  enjoyments  ollered  us 
by  a  journey  at  home.     "  And  what  are  these  enjoymfiils !" 
asked  I  of  myself,  as  I  seated  mvself  a  little  before  sunrise 
on  the  deck  of  a  common  freiifht-boat,  on  the  Cliamplain 
Canal,  and  prepared  to  set  oil"  for  a  visit  to  the  next  village. 
Certainly,  thought  I,  as  I  inhaled  the  fresh  air,  and  heard  the 
birds  begin  to  chirp  at  waking,  liner  dewy  mornings  or  a 
purer  ether  can  nowhere  be  found  than  what  our  own  hills 
and  valleys  allbrd.     Yet  nothing  is  less  known,  scarcely 
any  thing  is  more  seldom  enjoyed,  by  those  of  our  country- 
men who  talk  most  of  the  beauties  of  nature  in  Scotland  or 
Italy.     "  Of  all  scenes  in  the  world,"  exclaims  Americus 
Frenchificatus,  "  nothing  can  compare  with  sunrise  on  the 
Alps !"     Of  course,  this  personage,  who  had  returned  from 
a  voyage,  enriched  with  half  a  dozen  mispronounced  French 
words  and  a  pair  of  moustaches,  claimed  to  indulge  in  a 
foreign    rapture    as   he   pronounced   this   exclamation. — 
"  But,  my  good  sir,  have  yon  ever  seen  a  sunrise  in  the 
White  Mountains  of  New-Hampshire  ?"—"  No."— "  Have 
you  ever  seen  one  in  any  part  of  America?" — "  No :— they 
are  not  fit  to  be  seen." — "  And  you,  I  suppose,  are  fit  to 
judge  of  them  ?"    And  who  is  not  like  this  gentleman,  if  not 
in  foreign  polish,  in  his  contempt  for  home,  and  in  foolish, 
degenerate,  luxurious  habits?     The  hotel  I  had  left  was 
full  of  travellers,  yet  I  alone  had  opened  my  eyes  to  the 
finest  part  of  the  day,  and  my  lungs  to  the  purest  air. 

The  boat,  though  rough  and  offering  no  accommodations, 
in  the  mean  time  had  been  sliding  smoothly  over  the  shining 
surface  of  the  canal,  and  had  brought  me  into  a  beautiful 
grove  of  forest  trees,  whose  numberless  stems,  like  the  in- 


r 


•ft 


CANAL  rxcumioK. 


„umer»hle  column,  of  some  extensive  »«•"?>'•  ^"«/'"'^- 
fully  reflected  below,  while  their  th.ek  canopy  of  fol  ajte  aUo 
app'^-ared  repeated  apparently  from  nn  'i;"-'"-  ^^^^'^JJ 
,n  e  was  the  mirror  over  whu-h  they  hu.)?.  Why,  I  M 
nleir,  is  travelling  <.n  onr  eanaU  eonnulered  so  wean««mc 
S'^  Is  itute  of  interest?  Here  are  noble  P"'J"«;.»;>"- «{ 
nl  ure  multiplied  around,  silence  and  so  .tude  undisturbed 
ITL    attling  of  wheels,  and  perfumed  a.r  unmn.gled  w.th 

oHhe  forests;  the  retreats  of  wild  animals  are  a  ,■  os   ex 
pose.l  to  our  view,  and  the  nests  even  of  rare  '''^' ^  »;»"J 
over  onr  heads.    How  can  the  puhl.c.  how  can  some  of  my 
friends   most  distinguished   for   taste,  prefer  the  crowded 
Itar-nrch,  the  dusty  and  thickly  inhabited  road  w.th  the 
heal  o?  the  sun  during  a  midday  ridet    Alas  !  a  httle  reflec- 
tion  reminded  me  that  our  education  does  not  prepare  us  for 
Th "  enjoyment  of  scenes  like  those  through  which  I  was 
passZ^  Who  knows  .he  nature  and  uses  of  tins  fine  tree  ; 
?.ho  can  teU  the  varieties  of  this ;  how  few,  indeed,  are  there 
Trnor^  men  of  education  who  can  discr  mma.e  betweerj 
Tan^plants  of  marked  and  even  opposite  peculiarities! 
mh  the  exception  of  those  practical  men  whose  bus.- 
Te  s  intioduce    them  to  such  things,  few  have  taken  the 
nans  to  inquire  at  all  into  the  important  study  of  botany; 
S  as    o?  zoology,  ornithology,  &c,  still  less  are  they 
Tnown,  though  the  forests  and  fields  are  stocked  with  various 
Sr  and  qfiadrupeds.     The  frivolities  of  life  devour  ten 
Umt  theamount  of  hours  which  would  be  «"fficient  to  give 
th^  yonng  such  knowledge  of  these  and  other  subjects  as 
would  render  them  capable  ofderivingenjoyment  and  benefit 
from  travelling.    What  more  natural  and  easy,  than  to  lead 
chTd rent^  L  gai^en  or  the  field  every  d;^  t-h  ^^7 
to  observe  leaves  and  flowers,  fruits  and  seeds,  animals  and 
bids  and  relHte  or  read  to  them  sketches  of  ther  nature  and 
h  sto'ry T  But,  no !     The  father  is  too  fond  of  his  money- 
mS  his  wine,  or  his  politics;  and  the  mother  of  her 
dres  ef  Parties,  or  novel-reading.     And  unfortunately  such 
haWu  a?e  by  no  means  confined  to  the  more  frivolous  of 
society. 


KXCVRBIOK. 

)  extensive  temple,  were  failh- 
jeir  thick  canopy  of  foliujre  also 
ly  from  nn  immrnHe  depth,  so 
lich  tlicy  hun)r.     Wliy,  I  sisked 
can.iU  consideri'd  so  woiirisomc 
Here  are  noble  produciions  of 
ilence  and  solitude  uiuiisiurbed 
id  perfumed  air  unmingh-d  with 
ten  introduce  us  to  the  hca:ta 
of  wild  animals  arc  air  ost  ex- 
iiests  even  of  rare  bin  s  hang 
:he  public,  how  can  some  of  my 
for   taste,  prefer  the  crowded 
lliickly  inhabited  road,  with  the 
dday  ride  T    Alas  !  a  little  reflec- 
cducation  does  not  prepare  lis  for 
like  those  through  which  I  was 
nature  and  uses  of  tliis  fine  tree  ; 
r  this ;  how  few,  indeed,  are  there 
who  can  discriminate  between 
md  even  opposite  peculiarities ! 
lose  practical  men  whose  busi- 
such  things,  few  have  taken  the 
»  the  important  study  of  botany; 
hology,  &.C.,  still  less  are  they 
and  fields  are  stocked  with  various 
rhe  frivolities  of  life  devour  ten 
which  would  be  sufficient  to  give 
e  of  these  and  other  subjects  as 
e  of  deriving  enjoyment  and  benefit 
ore  natural  and  easy,  than  to  lead 
»r  the  field  every  day,  teach  them 
irers,  fruits  and  seeds,  animals  and 
J  ihem  sketches  of  their  naturo  and 
i  father  is  too  fond  of  his  money- 
politics  ;  and  the  mother  of  her 
■reading.     And  unfortunately  such 
confined  to  the  more  frivolous  of 


DIITIK9  or  TUAVELLEBS. 


238 


How  easy  would  it  be  for  parents  to  teach  their  chadreii, 
a>one  of  my  fellow-travellers  taught  me.     Seating  hiinsell 
Jy  my  side,^he  remarked  on  the  peculiarities  of  the  variou 
species  of  trees  we  pas-ed  on  our  way,  touching  tjpon    heir 
s  ze,  .oils,  uses,  ages,  nodes  of  propagation,  and  capacity 
r improvement,  the  value  which  some  of  then,  would  bea 
in  other  countries,  the  superiority  of  some  of  »!•«  ,  P«^e. 
known  in  different  climates,  &c.  Aic;  until  my  mind  was 
filled  with  admiration  at  the  vast  an.l  interesting  variety  pre- 
sented  by  the  subject,  and  with  respect  for  one  whose  mem. 
cry  was  stored  with  such  valuable  facts,  and  who  was  dis- 
posed to  communicate  them. 

It  may  be  set  down  as  one  of  the  crymg  sins  of  this  coun- 
try, that  good  and  intelligent  men  refuse  to  acknowledge 
their  duties  to  the  public.     Whether  at  home  or  abroad, 
most  of  them  seem  to  think  there  is  no  virtue  in  the  world 
but  modestv ;  and  under  her  broad  mantle,  I  fear  they  some- 
times hide  Iheir  indolence,  private  taste,  personal  vanity,  and 
what  not.     Now,  to  say  nothing  of  the  modes  in  «h.ch 
Lawyer  Loveall,  Dr.  Dogood,  Judge  Generous,  Mr.  Good- 
neighbour,  Farmer  Friendly,  and  other  characters  of  the 
Tke  nature,  some,  if  not  all  of  whom  we  find  m  every  vil- 
lage and  town,  might  contribute  to  the  gratification,  mstruc- 
S  and  improvement  of  their  own  circles  at  home  why 
should  they  be  so  insensible  of  the  claims  which  society 
has  npon  ^them  when  they  go   abroad?      Put  them    a, 
strangers,  into  a  steamboat's  cabin,  or  a  «'age.coach,  a 
canal  packet,  or  a  railroad-car,  and  they  are  as  silent  and 
timid  as  mice.     They  do  not  feel  the  ««?">«'  P^"  -^^ 
respectability  of  virtue  or  knowledge,  nor  realize  that    t  is 
their  business  to  appear  as  their  ad^^cates,  by  exhibiting 
them  in  their  own  proper  nature.     They  do  "Ot  "^^e  a" 
early  opportunity  to  use  language  and  express  sentiments 
which  Jliall  betray  their  own  characters,  but  generally  eave 
it  to  others  to  give  a  tone  to  conversaiior,  which  sometimes 
becomes  annoying  to  them,  while  it  is  useless  or  worse  than 
useless  to  the  company.    I  have  often  seen  the  young  or  the 
ignorant,  or  such  as  were  comparatively  so,  court  the  con- 
versation of  those  whose  respectable  appearance  promised 


'\ 


t84 


CANAL  BOAT. 


Bomething  superior  to  themselves  in  m.nd  or  in  heart ,  and 
have  observed  with  pain  that  the  privilege  has  been  too 
often  denied.     I  hax  J  seen  men  of  distinction,  accidentally 
discovered  by  fellow-travellers,  and  treated  ^f  respect  and 
deference,  yet  disposed  either  to  be  personally  flattered,  or 
to  affect  cold  indifference-too  seldom,  at  least,  showing  a 
philanthropic  desire  to  make  every  advan.age  subservient  to 
the  benefit  of  others.     In  short,  I  am  persuaded  that  one 
great  reason  why  there  is  so  much  that  is  frivolous  among 
fravelling  parties,  and  why  there  is  any  thing  offensive, 
is,  that  those  whose  duty  it  is  to  prevent  it  are  too  mdif- 
fereiit  about  their  obligations,  or  neglect  to  seek  proper  op- 
portunities and  means.  ,■  i    i  •   .,„ 
Many  persons  meet  on  their  travels  who  have  little  leisure 
or  opportunity  elsewhere  to  devote  to  the  society  of  ^Irangers ; 
and  to  some  of  these  such  interviews  have  proved  highly 
gratifying  and  permanently  beneficial.     But  many  a  ride  or 
excursion  has  been  rendered  irksome  by  a  general  silence 
among  fellow-travellers,  or  the  want  of  that  rehnement  of 
manners  and  conversation  which  ought  to  have  existed.     1 
know  that  there  are  subjects,  very  excellent  m  themselves, 
which  would  be  inappropriate  for  topics  in  a  mixed  com- 
pany; and  that  those  most  forward  are  often  the  most  con- 
ceited  and  shallow-minded  of  their  party.    But  I  am  favour- 
ing  a  just  medium.     I  can,  perhaps,  show  something  of  my 
meaning  by  a  real  case. 

Cards  were  once  called  for  on  board  of  a  boat,  where 
none  objecting,  a  party  or  two  sat  down  at  whist,  who  filled 
the  cabin  with  their  voices  for  a  couple  of  hours,  i  or  want 
of  a  timely  word  of  disapprobation  from  a  few  of  us  present, 
which  would  have  sufficed,  we  were  condemned  to  listen  a 
long  time  to  such  things  as  the  following;  and  were  after- 
ward  annoyed  by  the  effects  of  the  liquor,  to  which  the 
game  conducted  some  of  the  players. 
"  I've  won  two  hands  of  Mr.  Jones." 
"  Ah !  so  you  have." 

"That'll  answer.     That's  one  over— I've  a  mind  to  Let 
that  fellow  be.    We  want  four  to  begin  with— six  round." 
"  Now,  look,  hold  on  your  hair  1" 


kL  BOAT. 

selves  in  mind  or  in  heart ;  and 
ihal  the  privilege  has  been  too 
men  of  disiinclion,  accidentally 
jrs,  and  treated  with  respect  and 
ler  to  be  personally  flattered,  or 
-too  seldom,  at  least,  showing  a 
;e  every  advantage  subservient  to 
ihort,  I  am  persuaded  that  one 
10  much  that  is  frivolous  among 
y  there  is  any  thing  oflTensive, 
t  is  to  prevent  it  are  too  indif- 
ns,  or  neglect  to  seek  proper  op- 

lieir  travels  who  have  little  leisure 
devote  to  the  society  of  strangers ; 
ih  interviews  have  proved  highly 
r  beneficial.  But  many  a  ride  or 
red  irksome  by  a  general  silence 
r  the  want  of  that  refinement  of 
which  ought  to  have  existed.  I 
cts,  very  excellent  in  themselves, 
iate  for  topics  in  a  mixed  com- 
it  forward  are  often  the  most  con- 
1  of  their  party.  But  I  am  favour- 
i,  perhaps,  show  something  of  my 

i  for  on  board  of  a  boat,  where 
two  sat  down  at  whist,  who  filled 
for  a  couple  of  hours.  For  want 
)robation  from  a  few  of  us  present, 
J,  we  were  condemned  to  listen  a 
its  the  following ;  and  were  afier- 
flfecls  of  the  liquor,  to  which  the 
the  players. 
)f  Mr.  Jones." 

lat's  one  over — I've  a  mind  to  let 
It  four  to  begin  with — six  round." 
(TOur  hair  l" 


CARD  PARTY. 


838 


'    "  Ah !  I  think  I'll  stand  that,  sir." 

"It's  astonishing!  eleven,  eight,  thirteen;  I  never  saw 
such  dealing !" 

"  After  this  hand—" 

"  Bless  my  stars  !" 

"  Cut  'em." 

"  What  do  you  say!** 

"  Cut  'em !" 

"That's  over." 

"  Now  I  want  a  ten." 

"  Mr.  Jones,  advise  'em." 

"  Ten,  there's  twenty,  dub,  dub,  dub ;  hold  on  to  that !" 

"I,  O,  U — come,  lay  your  hands  there — plaguy  luck 
as  ever  anybody  had  !" 

"  You  a  notion  of  turning  in,  captain  ?" 

"What  sayr 

"Notion  of  turnin' in?" 

"  No,  not  yet." 

"  Well,  I  think  I  shall  have  to  pretty  soon." 

"Ha,  ha,  ha!  We  begin  to  feel  dreadfully  here! 
Twenty :— four,  ten  and  four  is  fourteen,  and  six  is  twenty, 
air." 

"  Play  up  all  round !" 

"  How's  that  ?" 

"  O,  if  I  could  have  got  ten  then !" 

"  We're  entitled  to  the  deal !" 

"Ten!  ha,  ha!" 

"  Cut  'em  again — go  ahead — split  'em — that's  right.'* 

"  Now,  if  I  can  get  an  ace — fourteen." 

"  Give  us  one  apiece." 

"  Give  me  a  couple  apiece." 

"Hold  on— there  we  are— play  up — that  helps  the 
bank." 

"  I  hope  luck  won't  go  against  me  all  the  time." 

"  Who's  got  a  good  hand  ?     Them  that  ha'n't,  say  so." 

"  Eighteen,  nineteen,  play  twenty." 

"  Hold  on — hold  on — what  have  you  got  now  ?" 

"  Give  me  a  fish." 


I 


SS6 


WHITBHALI" 


"Stop,  Btop,  Stop!"  ^ 

"  Give  us  a  tish." 

•»  My  next  deal." 

"  There's  your  two  fish." 

♦•  I  commence  to  deal  thoie." 

"  Stop !" 

"  Turn  'em  right  over." 

♦»  We  are  three,  sir." 

»  Take  'em-thal's  right." 

••  Yes." 

"  What  do  you  want  V* 

"  Lrther  lay— O  take  one  of  them  from  the  pack." 
"  That'll  be  too  much." 
"I'll  bet  he  don't  get  iu" 
••  I'll  bet  he  don't  too." 
"Well,  I'll  bet  he  du»." 


CHAPTER  XXX. 

Whitehall-Story  of  Sergeant  Tom,  a  Creature  of  t^.  R*'"'"'*?""" 
lS  Georgel^Charming  Scenery.and  intererttag  H..tor.ca^^..o- 
ciations-Ticonderotta-A  Revolutionary  Tr«htion-An  Oracle  oi 
Philology— Crown  Point. 

Whitehall,  formerly  Skeenesborough,  which  is  in  thtf 
vicinity,  is  associated  in  my  mind  with  the  career  of  a  wild, 
hair-brained  fellow,  who  joined  the  American  army  at  the 
breaking  out  of  the  Revolution,  by  the  persuasion  of  an  act- 
ive  officer,  from  whom  I  once  received  a  sketch  of  his  mili- 
tary course.  A  sergeancy  was  obtained  for  Tom,  but  he  had 
not  been  long  in  the  exercise  of  it,  when  his  friend  the 
colonel,  arriving  at  the  camp  at  Skeenesborough,  where  he 


TBHALL. 


Hone."  „ 

n  I  want  to  find ;  hold  still— 


Di'e. 


•BROIANT  TOM* 


237 


one  of  them  from  the  pack.*' 


PTER  XXX. 

It  Tom,  a  Creature  of  the  Revolution- 
Scenery,  and  interesting  HUtorical  Asw- 
Revolutionary  Tradition— An  Oracle  of 

Skeenesborough,  which  is  in  this 
my  mind  with  the  career  of  a  wild, 
1  joined  the  American  army  at  the 
•lution,  by  the  persuasion  of  an  act- 
once  received  a  sketch  of  his  niili- 
y  was  obtained  for  Tom,  but  he  had 
!xercise  of  it,  when  his  friend  the 
;amp  at  Skeenesborough,  where  he 


was,  found  him  degraded  to  a  private  sentry.  By  h  »  exer- 
tions  he  got  him  reinstated ;  and  knowing  his  wild  temper, 
cautioned  him  against  getting  "to  any  quarrel  with  the 
soldiers,  or  the  m  Jjor,  even  if  they  shou  d  call  him  a  broken 
sergeant,  as  he  apprehended.  But  this  was  all  in  vain. 
The  next  aaemoon  news  came  that  Torn  was  m  *«  J^ard- 
house.  On  inquiry,  he  learned  that  he  had  flogged  the  sol- 
diers  and  cleared'them  out  of  the  tent,  and  threatened  to 
kill  the  major.  Tom  had  sent  for  the  colonel  to  see  him , 
but  this  he  refused,  though  he  felt  bound,  out  of  regard  to 
his  family,  to  exert  himself  in  his  behalf. 

The  squadron  was  then  fitting  out  on  the  lake,  under 
Arnolu.  t3  oppose  the  British;  and  with  great  exertions  the 
colonel  prevailed-  upon  Tom's  captain,  major,  and  general, 
to  let  him  off  without  a  court-martial,  on  condition  that  he 
should  enlist  on  board  a  ship.     Tom  had  been  ^^^^^l^^;^^^ 
cheerfully  accepted  the  proposition,  expressing  the  warmest 
gSde^o  his' friend,  to  whom  he  attributed  his  escap   ; 
and  solemnly  swore  to  serve  him  whenever  he  <;«uld,  even 
at  the  risk  of  his  life.     Although  the  colonel  believed  hira 
t  be  entirely  devoid  of  principle,  he  placed  •'"P^-;  ;;j^^^^^^^^ 
in  this  solemn  and  voluntary  promise,  as  he  was  susceptible 

°  The'ealley  in  which  Tom  served  as  sergeant  of  marines, 
in  the  battle  off  Crown  Point,  fought  the  English  flag-vesse. 
side  by  side,  with  great  vigour.     Tom,  at  lengU.  find  ng  aU 
the  officers  above  him  wounded,  fought  her  h'™««>^  """^ 
his  galley  was  found  to  be  in  a  sinking  condition.     One  of 
our  commanders  came  up,  received  him  on  board,  gave  h  nj 
a  conspicuous  part  the  rest  of  the  day.  and  honoured  h.na 
with  peculiar  marks  of  approbation      Tom,  however,  was 
not  long  on  shore  before  he  deserted,  and  joined  the  B"t  s^ 
army  in  Canada.     An  expedition  was  proposed  to  surprise 
Ballston,  then  a  frontier  town,  and  Tom  was  offered  a  la  ge 
Teward  to  join  it.     This  he  refused,  allegmg  that  it  was  the 
residence  of  his  father,  but  partly,  no  doubt,  because  hi. 
benefactor  also  lived  there.      Finding,  however,  tha    the 
expedition  would  proceed,  he  joined  it,  that  he  might  be- 
friend him;  and  performed  important  service  m  secret,  to 

21 


I 


IK 


t88 


tMOl  eSOROKt 


which  my  informant  considered  himself  indebted  for  liberty, 
if  not  for  life.  The  details  are  interesting :  but  I  cannot 
stay  to  write  them  now. 

The  first  glimpse  I  caught  of  Lake  George  satisfied  me 
that  my  expectations  would  be  almost  equalled ;  for  I  had 
heard  it  described  in  such  glowing  terms  in  my  boyhood, 
that  the  conception  I  entertained  of  its  beauties  were  un- 
doubtedly romantic  and  extravagant,  as  I  had  before  had 
occasion  to  reflect.     If  the  breadth  of  a  lake  be  too  great, 
or  its  shores  too  low,  there  must  be  a  want  of  bold  features 
on  the  margin.    A  large  level  surface  is  sublime ;  but  we 
soon  feel  a  want  of  variety.     A  more  limited  plain  is  often 
beautiful ;  but  it  is  necessarily  insipid  if  alone ;  and  a  sheet 
of  water  particularly  requires  contrasts  to  relieve  the  satiety 
which  the  mind  feels  in  contemplating  it.     The  Lake  of 
Geneva  would  be  greatly  improved  in  beauty,  if  a  few  of 
the  eminences  which  stand  at  the  distance  of  several  miles 
could  be  planted  upon  ite  very  banks. 

•Lake  George  lies  in  contact  with  the  mountains,  whose 
bases  are  washed  by  its  pure  waters,  while  its  summits 
hasten  to  their  terminations  just  above.     I  had  inspected 
some  manuscript  military  maps  of  the  French  war  in  this 
Ticinity,  so  that  I  soon  caught  some  of  the  zigzags  of  Mont- 
calm's lines  of  approach  to  Fort  William  Henry  (which, 
alas !  is  now  an  insignificant  heap  on  the  shore),  and  fixed 
on  the  thick  grove  on  my  left,  which  shades  the  grave  of 
about  one  thousand  of  his  men.    On  the  right,  swelling  from 
the  head  of  the  lake,  was  the  elevation  crowned  by  Fort 
George,  long  in  ruins,  and  in  1745  the  scene  of  General 
Dieskau's  defeat,  before  a  breastwork  of  logs.     Along  the 
waste  ground  in  the  little  valley  this  side,  was  perpetrated 
the  massacre  of  the  soldiers,  women,  and  children  from 
Fort  William  Henry,  by  Indians.     The  sky  suddenly  grew 
dark  as  I  approached  the  pretty  village  of  Caldwell,  and  a 
thunder-shower  passed  just  before  us,  obscuring  for  a  few 
minutes  the  fields  and  dwellings ;  and  then  passing  slowly 
down  the  lake,  whither  it  bore  off  a  brilliant  rainbow  on  its 
bosom.     Tlie  beauty  of  the  scene,  from  my  window,  in  the 
rear  of  the  hotel,  I  would  fain  describe,  especially  as  it  ap- 


BOROCf 

d  himself  indebted  for  liberty, 
are  interesting :  but  I  canaot 

of  Lake  George  satisfied  me 
le  almost  equalled ;  for  I  had 
owing  terms  in  my  boyhood, 
ined  of  its  beauties  were  un- 
.vagant,  as  I  had  before  had 
ireadth  of  a  lake  be  too  great, 
lust  be  a  want  of  bold  features 
el  surface  is  sublime ;  but  we 

A  more  limited  plain  is  often 
y  insipid  if  alone ;  and  a  sheet 
I  contrasts  to  relieve  the  satiety 
ntemplating  it.  The  Lake  of 
nproved  in  beauty,  if  a  few  of 
t  the  distance  of  several  miles 
ry  banks. 

act  with  the  mountains,  whose 
are  waters,  while  its  summits 
)  just  above.  I  had  inspected 
aps  of  the  French  war  in  this 
It  some  of  the  zigzags  of  Mont- 
j  Fort  William  Henry  (which, 
:  heap  on  the  shore),  and  fixed 
5ft,  which  shades  the  grave  of 
en.  On  the  right,  swelling  from 
the  elevation  crowned  by  Fort 

in  1745  the  scene  of  General 
breastwork  of  logs.  Along  the 
alley  this  side,  was  perpetrated 
•rs,  women,  and  children  from 
dians.  The  sky  suddenly  grew 
retty  village  of  Caldwell,  and  a 
,  before  us,  obscuring  for  a  few 
llings ;  and  then  passing  slowly 
ore  off  a  brilliant  rainbow  on  its 
3  scene,  from  my  window,  in  the 
fain  describe,  especially  as  it  ap- 


A  phuolooist. 


239 


n 


peared  near  sunset,  when  the  broad  and  green  slope  to 
the  margin  of  the  clear  water  was  striped  with  the  long 
shadows  of  trees  and  mountains,  and  the  surface  of  the  lake 
was  calm,  and  the  opposite  ridge  of  French  Mountain  raised 
its  immense  curtain  of  foliage,  as  it  were,  perpendicularly 
to  the  clouds. 

In  this  place  a  very  different  excitement  seems  to  affect 
the  visiters  from  that  which  is  felt  at  the  Springs,  where 
there  is  no  scenery  to  draw  off  the  thoughts  from  ourselves 
and  each  other.  The  conversation  at  table  seemed  im- 
proved, and  the  various  parties  had  a  variety  of  objects  be- 
fore them  for  the  day :  walks,  rides,  and  boat  parties,  to  visit 
the  forts  or  to  make  an  excursion  to  Tea  Island.  One 
would  hardly  think  that  the  house  could  be  much  visited  in 
the  winter  season ;  but  I  found  some  of  the  family  speaking 
familiarly  of  Monlreid  and  its  inhabitants,  who,  I  learned, 
often  come  down  in  parties  in  sleighs. 

I  had  several  strolls  along  the  shore  on  both  sides  of  the 
lake  near  Ticonderoga,  traced  out  the  old  French  lines  on 
which  General  Abercrombie's  army  made  so  ridiculous  an 
attack  in  1758,  and  climbed  to  the  redoubts  on  Mount  Inde- 
pendence. It  is  melancholy  to  renew  the  impressions  which 
must  have  been  made  by  the  aspect  of  these  hills  and  head- 
lands, these  woods  and  waters,  at  night,  when,  after  General 
St.  Clair  had  ordered  the  evacuation  of  the  fortress  and  the 
retreat  of  the  troops,  the  sudden  bursting  out  of  a  fire  in  a 
building  at  the  foot  of  Mount  Independence  illuminated  the 
scene,  betrayed  the  motions  of  the  Americans,  and  awakened 
the  fire  of  their  enemies. 

There  is  an  extensive,  wild,  and  mountainous  region  north 
and  west  from  this  spot,  where  there  are  hardly  any  inhabit, 
ants,  except  the  beasts  of  the  forests.  I  heard,  in  a  log- 
house,  some  exciting  tales  told  about  deer-hunting ;  and  on 
a  warm  afternoon,  I  heard  an  old  man  talk  in  the  following 
strain,  as  he  was  sitting  in  the  sun,  surrounded  by  several 
bantering  farmers'  sons : — 

"  You  are  a  stranger,  sir,  I  presume,  and  perhaps  don't 
know  me  nor  my  family.  That's  the  way  with  the  world : 
these  boya  that  have  grown  up  don't  know  but  what  their 


i.l 


340 


LAKE   CHAMPLAIN. 


fathert  were  as  respectable  as  mine.    I've  not  done  nght  { 
that  I'm  willing  to  allow.     But  I  an't  so  bad  as  Bill.     He 
got  to  drinking  too  much  a  good  many  years  ago,  and 
learned  to  fiddle,  and  used  to  leave  home  sometimes,  and 
go  off  round  to  dances,  and  so  on.     But  he  had  as  good 
a  wife  as  ever  was.  and  he's  reformed,  and  so  am  I.     I  ve 
come  across  the  lake  to  help  at  harvesting,  and  get  some 
wool  and  carry  back  for  the  children  to  card  up,  and  then 
we'll  have  it  spun  and  made  into  something  warm  for  'em 
next  winter.     These  women-folks  they  are  the  master-crit- 
turs  for  such  things.     They'll  sit  and  card  and  talk,  and 
get  a  wonderful  deal  done.     But  education  is  a  great  ihmg, 
and  we  can't  get  it  over  there  among  the  mountains  where 
there  an't  nobody  five  miles  back  from  the  lake.     It  s  a 
curious  country  there,  there's  so  many  ponds.    There  s 
Long  Pond,  and  Square  Pond,  Goose  Pond,  and  Crane 
Lake,  and  Paradox  Pond,  and  Pyramid  Lake,  and— that  s 
all,  I  believe.     Well,  now  there  an't  nobody  but  me  that 
lives  anywhere  about  here,  that  knows  how  these  ponds 
got  their  names." 

"Well,  do  you  know.  Uncle  Zeek?"  asked  one  of  the 

company.  t»     i  .u 

»  Why,  yes ;  there's  L.ng  Pond  and  Square  Pond,  they 
were  called  so  because  of  their  shape ;  and  the  wild  geese 
go  to  Goose  Pond ;  and  Crane  Lake,  the  surveyors  found  a 
crane's  nest  on  the  bank.  And  then  there's  something  very 
curious  about  Paradox  Pond :  the  stream  that  the  outlet 
falls  into  is  sometimes  swelled  by  a  thunder-shower  that 
don't  reach  the  pond,  and  then  the  water  sets  back  through 
the  outlet  into  it.  So  you  see  I  know  all  about  the  history 
of  that  country." 

"  But,"  said  I, "  you  have  not  informed  us  concernmg 

Pyramid  Lake."  .  ,  ,    ,  .    . 

"Oh,  as  for  that,"  said  he,  "I  don't  rightly  know  what 
that  took  ite  name  from,  without  it  was  because  they  some- 
times catch  suckers  there  very  early  in  the  season." 

" However,"  said  he,  "I  was  talking  about  my  family. 
You  must  know  that  my  grandfather  came  from  England 
with  Lord  Howe.    He  had  just  finished  his  education  at 


■PLAIN. 

mine.  I've  not  done  right } 
;  I  an't  80  bad  as  Bill.     He 

good  many  years  ago,  and 

leave  home  sometimes,  and 
so  on.  But  he  had  as  good 
reformed,  and  so  am  I.     I've 

at  harvesting,  and  get  some 
children  to  card  up,  and  then 
into  something  warm  for  'em 
oiks  they  are  the  master-crit- 
II  sit  and  card  and  talk,  and 
Jut  education  is  a  great  thing, 
1  among  the  mountains  where 

back  from  the  lake.  It's  a 
's  so  many  ponds.  There's 
nd,  Groose  Pond,  and  Crane 
id  Pyramid  Lake,  and — that's 
lere  an't  nobody  but  me  that 
that  knows  how  these  ponds 

icle  Zeek?"  asked  one  of  the 

[  Pond  and  Square  Pond,  they 
ieir  shape ;  and  the  wild  geese 
ne  Lake,  the  surveyors  found  a 
nd  then  there's  something  very 
1:  the  stream  that  the  outlet 
lied  by  a  thunder-shower  that 
en  the  water  sets  back  through 
Be  I  know  all  about  the  history 

e  not  informed  us  concerning 

le,  "  I  don't  rightly  know  what 
hout  it  was  because  they  some- 
ery  early  in  the  season." 
was  talking  about  my  family, 
randfather  came  from  England 
1  just  finished  his  education  at 


CROWN  POINT. 


24J 


Oxford ;  and  there's  few  men  that  have  got  as  mueh  learn* 
ing  now-a-days.  What  an  army  that  was !  Every  man 
was  dressed  in  superfine  broad  cloth,  with  gold  knee 
buckles.  And,  besides,  though  I  am  almost  ashamed  to 
say  it,  I  am  connected  by  maniage  with  General  Arnold's 
family.  He  was  a  good  soldier,  though,  at  Sarritoag,  and 
some  said  he  got  the  victory  there.  Why  don't  you  sing 
the  old  songs  ofiener,  boys  ? 

That  the  great  Mount  Defiance 

They  toon  would  fortify  : — 
We  found  that  we  must  quit  our  line*. 

Or  ev'ry  man  must  die. 

Which  soon  we  did  in  haste  perform, 

And  went  to  Sarritoag, 
A  burning  all  the  buildings 

We  found  along  the  road. 

'Twaa  then  the  gen'rous  thought  inspir'd 

The  noble  Gates's  mind, 
For  to  send  out  Gin'ral  Arnold, 

To  see  if  he  could  find 

A  passage  through  the  inimy, 

Wherever  he  might  be ; 
Which  soon  he  did  accomplish, 

And  set  the  country  free." 

I  made  a  passage  to  Crown  Point  one  pleasant  afternoon 
and  evening,  in  a  small  lake  schooner,  built  of  boards,  laid 
in  several  courses,  without  timber,  on  Annesley's  plan.  Its 
masts  also  were  made  so  as  to  be  easily  struck ;  and  the 
dimensions  and  fixtures  being  those  of  a  canal-boat,  it  had 
4aken  a  cargo  through  the  Erie  Canal,  I  believe  to  New* 
York,  and  was  now  on  its  return  to  the  lower  part  of  Lake 
Champlain.  The  crew,  consisting  of  only  two  men  and  a 
boy,  were  full  of  fresh  water  wit  and  anecdotes,  and  inci- 
dents by  canal,  lake,  and  river,  and  at  once  skilful  and 
obliging.  As  they  were  telling  a  long  eel  story,  the  neigh* 
bouring  eminences  on  the  left,  and  the  distant  ridges  of  the 
Green  Mountains  on  the  east,  especially  the  Camel's  Hump, 
made  a  magnificent  appearance  in  the  declining  sun,  while 
we  passed  near  enough  to  the  scattered  dwellings  to  feel 

21* 


S43 


LAKS  OHaMPLAM. 


some  interest  in  the  inhabitants  of  several  retired  but  plea- 
sant spots.     I  was  carefully  landed  in  the  jolly  boat,  under 
a  bright  moon,  at  a  pretty  beach  on  Chimney  Point ;  and 
after  a  few  hours'  repose  at  the  inn,  examined  with  interest 
the  striking  features  of  that  neighbourhood,  not  less  interest- 
ing in  scenery  than  in  history.   On  the  elevated  point,  while 
a  fine  breeze  was  blowing,  1  traced  out  an  old  breastwork, 
once  extending  from  cove  to  cove,  and  a  redoubt  which 
looked  up  and  down  the  lake  for  a  great  distance,  while  the 
ruins  of  Crown  Point  lay  exposed  to  the  eye  on  the  opposite 
side  of  the  lake,  here  reduced  to  the  breadth  of  a  river. 
Wliat  a  commanding  position!    Nothing  could  pass  this 
way  without  sailing  long  in  the  range  of  the  artillery  of 
the  old  fortress,  then  passing  it  in  review  with  broadside 
exposed  to  the  batteries  within  musket-shot,  and  afterward, 
if  it  could  survive  this  risk,  steering  for  several  more  in  the 
range  of  one  of  the  five  great  redoubte,  which  were  in  ad- 
vance of  the  angles  of  the  main-work.     I  crossed  the  ferry, 
and  rambled  about  the  solitary  ruins,  but  found  them  in  a 
pretty  good  state  of  preservation.    The  original  fort,  erected 
by  the  French  on  the  shore,  is  near  the  landing.    The  long, 
broad,  and  low  point,  the  end  of  which  is  occupied  by  the 
fortifications,  is  overgrown  by  young  trees,  which  have 
sprouted  since  its  evacuation,  and  there  is  a  grove  of  the 
same  age  as  that  at  Ticonderoga.     The  parade  within  the 
fortress  was  green,  and  almost  as  smooth  as  if  still  in  use ; 
while  only  the  want  of  roofs  and  glass  in  the  brick  buildings 
surrounding  it,  and  the  growth  of  sumacs  round  the  parapet, 
showed  that  the  place  was  deserted.     The  barracks  were 
occupied  partly  by  sheep  and  partly  by  swallows ;  and  the 
solitary  contemplation  of  the  scene  around  wakened  many 
reflections  on  past  events. 


MPLAIN. 

8  of  several  retired  but  pies-* 
andcd  in  the  jolly  boat,  under 
iach  on  Chimney  Point ;  and 
le  inn,  examined  with  interest 
ighbourhood,  not  less  interest- 
On  the  elevated  point,  while 
raced  out  an  old  breastwork, 
>  cove,  and  a  redoubt  which 
for  a  great  distance,  while  the 
Bsed  to  the  eye  on  the  opposite 
id  to  the  breadth  of  a  river, 
n!    Nothing  could  pass  this 
,  the  range  of  the  artillery  of 
I  it  in  review  with  broadside 
In  musket-shot,  and  afterward, 
teering  for  several  more  in  the 
at  redoubte,  which  were  in  ad- 
ain-work.     I  crossed  the  ferry, 
iry  ruins,  but  found  them  in  a 
ion.    The  original  fort,  erected 
is  near  the  landing.    The  long, 
id  of  which  is  occupied  by  the 
by  young  trees,  which   have 
1,  and  there  is  a  grove  of  the 
eroga.     The  parade  within  the 
ost  as  smooth  as  if  still  in  use ; 
and  glass  in  the  brick  buildings 
th  of  sumacs  round  the  parapet, 
deserted.     The  barracks  were 
d  partly  by  swallows ;  and  the 
le  scene  around  wakened  many 


243 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

tion  in  Convent..  Arcniiecture— Wilful  Error,  on  Educa- 

si  r.!K    '      f  you  have  positive  evidence,  on  every 

Sr,„.  T      °'^.'  ''"'■"  ^•^*"'='  «chool.master,  thrire'aS 
tyrant  I  ever  knew     It  seemed  to  me  that  ignorance  hadl 


Ui 


CANADA. 


Observe  but  Belleule  -n^  Bouchcrville  Mountain.^o^^ 
r^ht  over  the  vast  plain,  after  leaving  St.  John  •.  The  ow 
i^tSrtles,  hoLaof  Laprairie  the  f  o^  "anTtS 
«ith  Boacious  irrounds  enclosed  with  high  vralls,  and  the 
rodferrurPreneh  .peaking  people  on  the  .hore  of  the 
noble  St.  Lawrence,  remind  one  of  Europe. 

The  steamboaia  on  the  St.  Lawrence  and  the  Lakes  have 
beloften  cTowded  to  excess  this  season,  by  the  emigrants 
„ewly-a  "ived  71  Great  Britain,  so  much  so  a,  to  render 
travelling  for  pleasure  remarkably  "  unpleasant. '  And  such 
Imlxed  company  as  has  often  been  observed  in  these  car- 
goes? WhiTeCL  of  those  obliging  tourists  who  occasjon- 

persons  than  usual,  and  the  western  slates  have  had  the 

^r  ?n\t  Uf     whie tany  were  at  best  but  extremely  il 
veTseiin  «  h   ^sl  of  the  globes."  which  the  English  school 
Idvertisements  seem  to  regard  as  such  an  accomp  ishment. 
Wha?  win  not  ignorance  do.  and  at  the  same  time  leave  un- 
to  1        am  persuaded  that  many  of  the  em^ants  migh* 
saJe  years  of  time,  and  all  the  ™on«y  ^^ey J>nng  out,  if 
thiv  would  but  ask  a  few  such  questions  as  the  boys  m  the 
New-York  Publicschools  could  readily  answer,  and  act  on 
^rUnowledee  thus  obtained.     One  woman  you  will  hear 
inquirmg  lo  ^-      ^q  return  to-morrow;  one  sick. 

^nTSevinTh    d^^^^^  -"'her  amazed  at 

f,?o  hP^u^and  fertility  of  the  country,  the  friendliness  of 
h    poS,  the  abundance  of  work,  the  high  wages,  the 
Iheapness  of  land,  and  in  short,  the  superiority  of  eveiy 
htng'  to  hi.  expectations.    The  only  wonder  to  me  wa.. 


DA. 


MONTREAL. 


S45 


achcrville  Mountains,  on  the 
leaving  St.  John'f.  The  old 
)rairie,  the  gloomy  nunneiy, 
id  with  high  walls,  and  the 
(cople  on  the  shore  of  the 
e  of  Europe. 

.awrence  and  the  Lakes  have 
this  season,  by  the  emigranta 
lin,  80  much  so  as  to  render 
bly  "  unpleasant."    And  such 
I  been  observed  in  these  car- 
bliging  tourists,  who  occasion- 
fi  subjects  before  their  eyes, 
ihe  trouble  of  leaving  home, 
een  remarked,  there  has  been 
tion  of  intelligent  and  wealthy 
western  slates  have  had  the 
them  to  their  population.    But 
unprovided  with  necessary  in- 
y  means,  to  direct  their  course 
il.    One  person  might  be  heard 
jountry  through  which  he  waa 
1  never  been  in  a  geography 
were  at  best  but  extremely  ill 
bes,"  which  the  English  school 
•d  as  such  an  accomplishment, 
and  at  the  same  time  leave  un- 

many  of  the  emigrants  might 

the  money  they  bring  out,  if 
ch  questions  as  the  boys  in  the 
)uld  readily  answer,  and  act  on 
d.  One  woman  you  will  hear 
jr  children,  who  have  come  to 
to  return  to-morrow ;  one  sick* 
unhealthy;  another  amazed  at 
he  country,  the  friendliness  of 

of  work,  the  high  wages,  the 
short,  the  superiority  of  every 

The  only  wonder  to  me  wa»» 


that  they  were  not  all  delighted ;  for  I  have  seen  the  ships 
in  which  some  of  them  have  crossed  the  Atlantic,  and  should 
thmk  that  any  thing  would  be  preferred  to  life  on  board  of 
them. 

I  asked  an  old  Scotchman  one  day,  just  arrived,  whe- 
ther he  had  had  a  pleasant  passage.  He  pointed  down 
the  half.closed  hatches  and  said,  "  In  that  hole  there  were 
above  ninety  of  us ;  and  yet  this  was  the  only  ventilator 
we  had  during  a  voyage  of  six  weeks,  except  three  days, 
when  the  after-hatches  for  a  short  lime  were  removed.  On 
account  of  the  impurity  of  the  air,  I  used  to  come  on  deck 
at  night,  and  could  scarcely  persuade  myself  to  return."  I 
confess  that  the  sight  presented  below  sunk  my  ideas  of 
human  nature  to  a  grade  that  always  makes  me  feel  un- 
comfortable for  a  day  or  two.  The  sounds  which  rose  to- 
gether reminded  me  of  Bunyan's  pit  of  Tophet,  though  the 
old  man  did  not  answer  my  idea  of  a  shepherd  of  the  De- 
lectable Mountains. 

A  few  days  may  be  agreeably  spent  at  Montreal  and 
Quebec,  and  in  visiting  the  environs :  for,  although  there 
18  little  to  excite  interest  in  the  literary  institutions  (know- 
ledge,  in  all  its  branches,  being  at  a  low  ebb),  the  foreign 
air  of  the  people,  their  habitations  and  manners,  the  appear- 
ance of  activity  which  pervades  every  thing  during  the  brief 
summer  which  the  climate  allows,  and  the  peculiar  features 
of  the  natural  scenery,  present  considerable  attractions, 
rune  is  not  allowed  to  enter  into  detail.  Let  us  see,  then, 
whether  any  idea  of  the  variety  and  nature  of  the  objects, 
most  striking  to  a  traveller,  may  be  conveyed  by  a  rapid 
mention  of  them. 

The  approacli  to  Montreal,  in  one  of  the  Laprairie 
ferry-boats,  allows  you  to  contemplate  it  at  leisure.  The 
distance  is  nine  miles :  the  river,  which  is  three  miles  broad, 
being  crossed  transversely.  You  are  excited  by  the  rapidity 
of  the  powerful  steamboat,  and  of  the  current,  bearing 
you  hke  a  bird  over  a  ragged  channel,  which  often  is  visi- 
ble, covered  with  crags,  apparently  ready  to  tear  the  bot- 
tom of  the  vessel.  French,  of  a  harsh  and  uncouth  dia- 
lect, is  dinned  in  your  ears  by  market-men  and  women, 


S46 


CANADA. 


'\ 


watching  their  ba.keU  of  rooU,  herba,  &c.,  p»hered  lO 
•canty  harvest  from  some  part  of  the  rich  but  abuied  plain, 
which  extends  from  the  river's  bank  to  the  horizon,  excep 
where  it  is  bounded  by  a  few  distant  and  imposing  isolated 
mountains.     If  you  cross  in  a  balteau,  you  hear  the  boat 
song  of  your  rowers,  in  which  there  is  httle  "weetness  or 
poetry.     The  city,  spreading  along  the  low  shore  of   he 
river,  shoots  up  the  spires  of  five  or  six  churches,  with  the 
domes  of  two  convents,  and  the  towers  of  the  new  cathedral, 
aeainst  the  Mountain  of  Montreal,  which  alone  rescues  the 
Bcene  from  utter  tameness.     Those  who  wish  to  contem- 
plate  the  largest  specimen  of  barbarous  architecture  m  JNortQ 
America  (saving  Mexico),  may  visit  the  cathedra  . 

What  apology  is  there  for  the  introduction  of  the  Gothic 
■tyle  into  the  United  States?     What  is  there  among  us 
which  is  signified  by  it]    What  is  there  connected  with 
it  in  our  history  or  institutions ;  and  what  good  influence 
can  we  expect  from  it  upon  the  future?     We  have  had 
nothing  like  a  gradual  progress  of  taste  through  many  ages, 
and  no  successive  races  of  men  in  different  stages  of  civili- 
zation,  or  any  period  of  our  history  at  all  allied  to  such  a 
Btyle.    At  the  same  time  our  condition  ia  based  on  the  loun- 
dation  of  universal  knowledge:  there  is  no  mystery,  no 
secrecy,  no  ignorance.     Nothing  is  concealed,  nothing  is 
done  through  systematic  imposture.     Neither  do  we  admit 
of  any  principle  by  which  the  feelings  are  to  be  influenced 
independently  of  Ihe  judgment.     Why  then  should  we 
meddle  with  other   architecture,   in  which  vastness   and 
eloom  work  their  effects  upon  the  heart,  without  ofl^ring  to 
The  thought  any  distinct  subject  to  fasten  upon ;  in  which  the 
eyes  are  shown  dark  recesses  which  they  cannot  penetrate, 
and  a  multitude  of  laboured  devices  and  ornaments  the  mind 
would  in  vain  understand  1     Simplicity  and  use,  two  of  he 
great  features  of  nature's  works,  are  bamshed  hence ;  the 
lieht  for  which  our  eyes  were  formed  U  obscured ;  and  the 
objects  and  ends  of  our  creation  mystified,  as  far  as  archi- 
tectural  objects  can  produce  such  an  effect. 

Why  should  we  wish,  in  this  country,  to  present  tmi 
pUes  to  the  eye,  in  which  it  can  trace  none  of  the  great  prin- 


iDA. 


tklMK  NOTIONS. 


347 


mU,  herbi,  &c.,  gathered  in 
rt  of  the  rich  but  abuied  plain, 
r'«  bank  to  the  horizon,  except 

distant  and  imposing  isolated 

a  batteau,  you  hear  the  boat 
ih  there  is  little  sweetness  or 
g  along  the  low  shore  of  the 

five  or  six  churches,  with  the 
tie  towers  of  the  new  cathedral, 
itreal,  which  alone  rescues  the 

Those  who  wish  to  contem- 
barbarous  architecture  in  North 
ay  visit  the  cathedral, 
r  the  introduction  of  the  Gothic 
8?     What  is  there  among  us 
What  is  there  connected  with 
ions ;  and  what  good  influence 
,on  the  future  ?     We  have  had 
ress  of  taste  through  many  ages, 
men  in  diflerent  stages  of  civili- 
jr  history  at  all  allied  to  such  a 
r  condition  is  based  on  the  foun- 
Bdge:  there  is  no  mystery,  no 
othing  is  concealed,  nothing  is 
nposture.     Neither  do  we  admit 
the  feelings  are  to  be  influenced 
rment.     Why  then   should  we 
Bcture,   in  which  vastness   and 
pon  the  heart,  without  ofiering  to 
ject  to  fasten  upon ;  in  which  the 
ses  which  they  cannot  penetrate, 
1  devices  and  ornaments  the  mind 
Simplicity  and  use,  two  of  the 
works,  are  banished  hence ;  the 
irere  formed  is  obscured ;  and  the 
ireation  mystified,  as  far  as  archi- 
ce  such  an  effect. 

in  this  country,  to  present  tmI 
it  can  trace  none  of  the  great  prin- 


eiplet  of  natural  taste ;  in  which  the  mind  finds  only  per- 
plexity ;  and  the  feelings,  instead  of  being  exalted  with  hope 
and  encouragement,  are  depressed  with  undefined  gloom. 
How  far  more  appropriate  are  the  pure  and  chaste  Greek 
styles  to  our  own  history,  character,  and  condition  !  I  would 
take  the  Doric  and  Ionic  in  preference  to  the  Corinthian : 
and,  if  I  may  judge  from  my  own  feelings,  the  first-men- 
tioned is  to  be  preferred  to  all  others.  Regard  the  ancient 
rules  and  proportions  so  far  as  they  are  appropriate  to  the 
uses  of  our  public  edifices,  and  consistent  with  the  nature 
of  our  climate  ;  and  then  the  more  vigorously  you  cultivate 
taste  and  multiply  specimens  in  cities,  towns,  villages,  and 
the  very  forests  where  they  may  be  needed,  the  better.  In 
America  there  is  no  apology  for  a  gradual  introduction  of 
any  species  of  perfection  which  necessity  does  not  forbid 
us  to  know  at  once.  We  must  admit  only  the  best  of  every 
thing.  Where  the  forest  tree  falls,  there  let  taste  erect  her 
purest  monuments,  while  learning  adopts  the  best  methods 
for  instruction,  and  philanthropy  binds  heart  to  heart  with 
the  love  of  the  gospel :  for  liberty  has  established  a  system 
which  requires  the  most  powerful  support  of  us  all,  and 
we  are  answerable  to  mankind  for  an  exhibition  of  the  no- 
blest results  of  civilization  and  Christianity. 

One  of  the  unaccountable  traits  of  the  taste  of  our  coun- 
trymen, is  displayed  by  many  of  them  on  entering  a  Cana- 
dian town.  They  will  take  off  their  children  to  the  nunne- 
ries, obtain,  if  possible,  an  interview  with  the  superieures, 
purchase  a  few  trifles  of  domestic  manufacture,  infer  from 
what  they  see  that  all  must  be  well  arranged  and  systematic 
in  every  department,  because  they  spend  a  few  minutes  in 
the  presence  of  stiff  and  starched  nuns,  and  go  away  with 
a  gratuitous  impression  that  there  is  a  great  deal  of  solid  in- 
struction given  to  the  children  and  young  persons  whom 
they  profess  to  teach. 


\ 


348 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 

Different  Traveller,  have  different  Eye^-The  Polish  Exiles-Regrets 
on  the  Necessity  of  closing-"  Tom  Slowstarter's"  Farewell. 

How  Strongly  was  I  struck,  the  other  day,  with  the  con- 
trast between  two  foreigners,  whom  I  met  travelhng  m  the 
United  States :  a  Frenchman  and  a  South  American !    The 
one  recalled  to  my  recollection  Monsieur  Levasseur,  who, 
while  in  the  train  of  General  Lafayette,  witnessed  the  la- 
bours of  the  New-York  firemen  one  night  at  a  conflagra- 
tion.    Having  come  from  a  physical  people,  a  nation  of 
materialists,  he  wished  to  handle  one  of  the  engines,  m 
order  to  form  an  idea  of  those  machines  which  he  thought 
exhibited  some  of   the    great  capacities  of  republicans. 
The  South  American  was  always  admirmg  the  results  ot 
some  moral  cause  in  our  society;  and  the  sagacity  and 
just  sentiments  he  displayed  were  not  only  gratifymg,  but 
instructive.     And  what  a  cc-nnment  was  here  on  the  political 
systems  of  Europe  and  America !     The  old  world  is  man- 
aged like  an  engine.     Millions  of  her  inhabitants  are  stand- 
ing  this  day  like  machines,  with  their  weapons  presented, 
like  the  teeth  of  a  bark-mill,  or  the  cogs  of  a  cider  grinder, 
ready  to  do  work  by  the  exertion  of  brute  force.     What  an 
immense  capital  stands  from  age  to  age  invested  m  arsenals 
and  foundries,  fortresses,  fleets,  and  powder-mills ;  yet  the 
budget  of  war  annually  groans  under  new  appropriations. 
Peace  may  sit  balancing  her  pinions  over  them  for  a  time ; 
but  something  soon  sets  her  on  the  wing;  and  what  shall 
induce  her   again  to  alight?   When  a  crop  of  humanity 
is  to  be  gathered,  when  the  flowers  of  a  new  season  are  to 
be  plucked,  the  machinery  moves  again  ;   Us   course  is 
against  mankind,  its  track  is  a  stream  of  human  gore.    1  he 
Greeks  cried  for  freedom,  but  they  must  pass  through  Missi- 


18 


ER  XXXI. 

t  Eyei— The  Polish  Exiles— Regrets 
-"  Tom  Slowstarter's"  Tarewell. 

ck,  the  Other  day,  with  the  con- 
:s,  whom  I  met  travelling  in  the 
.n  and  a  South  American !    The 
stion  Monsieur  Levasseur,  who, 
•al  Lafayette,  witnessed  the  la- 
emen  one  night  at  a  conflagra- 
a  physical  people,  a  nation  of 
handle  one  of  the  engines,  in 
lose  machines  which  he  thought 
reat  capacities  of  republicans, 
always  admiring  the  results  of 
society;  and  the  sagacity  and 
ed  were  not  only  gratifying,  but 
imment  was  here  on  the  political 
lerica !     The  old  world  is  man- 
ions  of  her  inhabitants  are  stand- 
3,  with  their  weapons  presented, 
11,  or  the  cogs  of  a  cider  grinder, 
xertion  of  brute  force.     What  an 
m  age  to  age  invested  in  arsenals 
leets,  and  powder-mills  ;  yet  the 
roans  under  new  appropriations, 
ler  pinions  over  them  for  a  time ; 
her  on  the  wing ;  and  what  shall 
fht?   When  a  crop  of  humanity 
le  flowers  of  a  new  season  are  to 
iry  moves  again ;   its   course  is 
is  a  stream  of  human  gore.    The 
but  they  must  pass  through  Missi- 


THE  BANISHED  POLES. 


249 


longhi  to  reach  it.  The  Polanders  claimed  the  rights  of  men, 
and  they  are  sent  to  weep  their  loss  in  Siberia.  Wherever 
the  principles,  in  which  we  so  thanklessly  live,  are  even 
whispered  in  Europe,  there  comes  the  wild  beast  of  oppres- 
sion. His  iron  step  is  heard  in  the  university,  his  gripe  is 
felt  in  the  school  and  at  the  fireside :  while  on  this  side  of 
the  Atlantic,  education,  universal  example,  and  the  govern- 
ment— even  self-interest  and  prejudice  itself,  invite,  nay, 
in  a  manner,  constrain  us  to  hear  the  language  of  liberty 
and  humanity,  and  to  associate  to  sustain  them ;  in  Europe,, 
the  warmest  hearts  are  chilled  by  the  sight  of  the  mana- 
cles and  dungeons  to  which  such  sentiments  are  condemned. 
Indeed,  nobler,  more  exalted  men  than  we,  men  with  a  far 
livelier  and  more  active  devotion  to  the  good  of  mankind 
than  ourselves,  are  now,  while  we  speak,  shut  up  in  prison, 
in  loneliness  and  misery,  friendless  and  oppressed,  because 
the  enemies  of  truth  and  righteousness,  of  light  and  wisdom^ 
of  liberty  and  right,  are  too  many  and  too  strong. 

Now  are  there  no  greater  duties  incumbent  on  us  than  t» 
eat  and  drink,  and  take  the  good  of  the  things  around  us ! 
Is  there  no  higher  object  for  us  to  aim  at  than  merely  tO' 
gain  wealth  and  honour,  or  to  exercise  power  1  Whoever 
devotes  himself  exclusively  to  either  of  these,  is  an  enemy 
of  our  country,  a  foe  to  mankind,  a  blot  on  our  land,  a  de- 
predator of  our  advantages,  an  ingrate  to  our  heavenly 
benefactor. 

The  two  hundred  and  thirty-six  Polanders  who  have  been 
sent  to  the  United  States,  by  the  arbitrary  and  inhuman 
power  of  Austria,  have  among  them  individuals  presenting 
peculiar  claims  to  the  interest  and  kindness  of  Americans. 
Most  of  them  are  severe  sufferers  for  the  sake  of  liberal 
views  and  patriotic  exertions  in  favour  of  freedom.  A  few 
of  them,  however,  were  of  bad  character,  and  were  sent 
here  to  discredit  the  others.  The  government  of  Austria  is 
a  severe  despotism ;  and  one  of  its  most  detestable  features 
was  displayed  in  an  attempt  to  injure  the  characters  of  men 
whose  patriotism  they  hated  and  feared.  After  these  Po- 
it^ders  had  been  imprisoned  at  Brinder  for  some  months, 
on  v&rious  pretexts,  without  trial  or  charge,  having  beea 

22 


250 


RFFLECTIONS  ON  SEEING  THEN. 


\ 


collected  from  different  quarters,  and  generally  unacquainted 
with  each  other,  arrangements  were  made  to  transport  them 
to  Trieste,  where  they  were  to  embark  for  this  country. 
This  step  they  consented  to,  because  the  only  alternative 
offered  was,  that  they  should  be  delivered  up  to  Russia. 
They  were  to  be  transported  in  detachments ;  and  the  first 
that  was  sent  off  consisted  of  those  who  had  been  imprisoned 
for  crimes,  that  their  conduct  might  make  an  impression  un- 
favourable to  the  patriots.    Since  their  arrival  m  America, 
a  discrimination  has  been  made,  and  the  unworthy  set  aside. 
Here  they  now  are  on  our  coast,  necessarily  unknown, 
except  so  far  as  we  choose  to  seek  an  acquaintance  with 
Ihem,  ignorant  of  our  language,  manners,  and  habits,  but, 
like  the  blind  or  the  dumb,  presenting  on  that  account  dou- 
ble claims  to  our  sympathy  and  aid.     Like  those  suffering 
under  some  natural  infirmity  from  which  we  are  happily  frec» 
Ihey  also  teach  us  lessons  of  gratitude  and  of  duty,  under  the 
superior  blessings  which  we  enjoy. 

A  banished  Pole  should  move  among  us  as  a  living 
monument  of  arbitrary  power,  and  whenever  we  look  upon 
liim  it  should  be  with  the  recollection— "  Here  is  a  victim 
of  despotism »  Here  is  a  man,  such  as  our  ancestors  would 
have  chosen  to  be,— if  offered  his  alternative— slavery  or 
banishment:  here  is  one  who  has  endured  that  arbitrary 
power  to  which  our  ancestors  would  not  submit,  but  re- 
sisted, for  the  sake  of  their  children." 

It  seemed  to  me,  while  conversing  with  some  of  these 
lonely  exiles,  as  if  Providence  had  sent  them  among  us  at 
tliis  time  not  without  a  kind  design.     We  have  been  so  re- 
mote from  the  sight  of  oppression  and  violence,  so  long 
accustomed  to  regard  tyranny  and  lawless  rule  as  mere 
creatures  of  the  imagination,  that  when  sentiments  are  de- 
clared, and  measures  tak.-n  tending  strongly  that  way,  ii>- 
Btead  of  taking  the  alarm,  too  many  of  us  look  on  with  in- 
difference, as  if  there  were  a  wall  of  impenetrable  brass 
erected  to  secure  our  liberty.     These  melancholy  and  silent 
strangers  seem  to  whisper  to  us,  to  beware  of  ourselves,  owr 
freedom,  and  our  country :  and  if  their  presence  shall  render 
us  any  more  waUhful,  if  it  shall  lead  us  to  reflect  mote  m- 


'^'•jm^w^'  ,-,jiu~iuJ«twuii! '  >>»>^—'  »H»~M'~i 


BEEIHG  THEM. 

re,  and  generally  unacquainted 
were  made  to  transport  them 
to  embark  for  this  country, 
because  the  only  alternative 

be  delivered  up  to  Russia, 
in  detachments ;  and  the  first 
hose  who  had  been  imprisoned 
might  make  an  impression  un- 
iince  their  arrival  in  America, 
le,  and  the  unworthy  set  aside. 
ir  coast,  necessarily  unknown, 
to  seek  an  acquaintance  with 
age,  manners,  and  habits,  but, 
>resenting  on  that  account  dou- 
and  aid.     Like  those  suffering 
from  which  we  are  happily  frec» 
gratitude  and  of  duty,  under  the 
enjoy. 

move  among  us  as  a  living 
Br,  and  whenever  we  look  upon 
ecoUection — "  Here  is  a  victim 
an,  such  as  our  ancestors  would 
ered  his  alternative — slavery  or 
vho  has  endured  that  arbitrary 
tors  would  Bot  submit,  but  re- 
r  children." 

conversing  with  some  of  these 
■nee  had  sent  them  among  us  at 
d  design.  We  have  been  so  re- 
ipression  and  violence,  so  long 
inny  and  lawless  rule  as  mere 
n,  that  when  sentiments  are  de- 
<\  tending  strongly  that  way,  ii>- 
too  many  of  us  look  on  with  ii>- 
•e  a  wall  of  impenetrable  brass 
f.  These  melancholy  and  silent 
to  us,  to  beware  of  ourselves,  oot 
and  if  their  presence  shall  ren(|«Jr 
I  shall  lead  us  to  reflect  mote  ia- 


CONCLVSIPW. 


251 


tently  on  the  inestimable  priviliges  we  possess,  of  the  deli- 
cate and  responsible  trust  committed  to  us  for  the  benefit  of 
mankind,  in  being  made  the  riepositories  of  free  institutions 
and  Christian  ligiit  and  liberty,  it  will  not  have  been  in  vain 
that  our  sympathy  for  them  has  been  painfully  excited,  or 
that  they  have  been  deprived  of  property,  friends,  and 
home. 


Some  eminent  musicians  have  said  that  the  most  import' 
ant  part  of, an  air  is  the  end;  and  that,  no  matter  what 
are  the  merits  of  a  composition,  if  there  be  appropriate  har- 
mony in  tlie  closirjg  note,  the  impression  must  be  delightful, 
and  the  hearers  will  be  content :  so  gourmands,  sometimes, 
take  special  pains  to  lay  by  their  choicest  morsels  for  the 
last,  that  the  final  bit  may  convey  to  the  palate  the  richest 
flavours  and  spicery — because  its  taste  is  to  be  lasting.  How 
mortifying  then,  to  an  author,  who  would  no*  intentionally 
violate  any  of  the  great  rules  of  taste,  to  find  that  no  sueh 
advantage,  as  he  could  wish  to  make  a  happy  close,  is 
allowed  him.  Here  1  am  suddenly  admonished,  by  the 
amount  of  paper  I  have  blotted,  that  I  must  bring  my  hasty 
remarks  to  an  end.  It  is  in  vain  for  me  to  plead  that  I  have 
a  heap  of  materials  lying  yet  untouched  before  me,  scenes 
of  nature,  both  in  ink  and  crayon,  words  of  the  wise,  and 
oracles  of  fools,  remaiks  of  chance-travellers,  and  thoughts 
of  my  own,  with  snatches  from  Greek  and  Latin  authors,  un- 
accountably  preserved  from  the  chaos  of  my  early  studies, 
now  applied,  well  or  ill,  to  modern  affairs — it  is  in  vain  to 
declare  that  a  book,  to  be  appropriate,  should  be  neither  far 
in  advance  of,  nor  behind  society,  and  that  all  these  materi- 
als will  deteriorate  and  perish  in  a  season.  Indeed,  the  fact 
is,  I  have  found  things  so  rapidly  moving  around  me  while  I 
have  been  making  this  volume,  that  I  have  been  on  a  constant 
race  to  keep  up.  Now  out  of  breath,  indeed,  but  not  ex- 
hausted nor  entirely  discouraged,  I  am  advised  to  desist ; 
and,  even  while  I  hesitate,  am  chagrined  to  think  that  I 
already  begin  to  be  distanced. 

I  feel,  in  short,  that  I  am  in  much  the  same  condition  in 


S52 


CONCLtSIOH* 


which  1  last  saw  my  old  friend  Tom  Slowstarter.    It  was 
tte  Am  oyL  Trenton  railroad.     We  had  stopped  "^ 
water,"  as  the  facetious  term  is-(not  our  horses,  but  the 
rter,iboaer)-and  Tom  had  alighted  to  look  at. the  ma- 
chTnTrv      The  bell  rang,  the  wheels  began  to  move,  and 
t  pLW™  called  to'him  to  hurry ;  but  th.  workmg  of 
one  of  the  small  cog-wheels  perplexed  h.m  «»  ™"«»>  t^**  Ije 
kept  pace  on  foot.     "  Overtake  us,  and  jump  m  Tom,  you  U 
be  left!"  cried  the  passengers.     "Are  you  speakmg  to  a 
Luor  aprose-writerr'saidTom;  "I  am  «otbe»und  he 
Dd?  mu?h  less  out  of  sight  of  it.    I  -""^^^^J  ^^^ 
further  into  things."-"  If  you  stop  *«  ""fr'^fHcS 
thing,"  aaid  the  engineer, "  you  can't  go  with  us.  -  H«j  » 

•^o',  .  _n   --:j    Tnm "  I  waUt   tO    WlOW  a   UWIB 

•omethmg  wrong,  said  lom—  \™,  ,,__..  jr  ,,„  are 
how  it  is  you  go  ahead  so,  and  then  I'll  nde.  —  «  youare 
S  to  know  much,  you  can't  be  in  our  company.  You 
must  make  up  your  mind  to  one  thmg  or  the  <>*«  P'etty 
TickTso  jump  in."-"Iwant  to  see  it  go  round  °nce  or 
?S  m Jre,"  slid  Tom ;  "  now  I'm  ready ;  open  the  door. 
The  d^rwiopened,  but  the  engine  had  begun  to  snort 
qu'  ke HLd  quicker,  and  the  wheeU  went  round  ike  a  buzz. 

^'omlaid  himself  almost  «*» '^'ihTT/ZlIhtt  faster '» 
take  mv  hand— run,  Tom,  run— a  little  faster,  a  little  taster . 

lis  u"5^  from  the'  cars,  while  he  was  «tra-ng  \e««'.f-;j 

and  fingers,  to  get  up  ag'^" ''f  »»^  ^""P^  ^1'"  cour- 
had  befter  stop,"  said  one,  at  th.s  crisis;  "'fj^^^"^";^ 
^e  faUed  in  aS  instant.     He  gave  up  t^*  f  ^^,  *"^J^^^^^ 
Se  a  post  in  the  middle  of  the  -d,  -hil^f  ^^^^^^^ 
joined  in  a  general  shout  of     ^od-by,  mr.  o        ^^ 
'oood-by,  MnKnow-a.little."-"Good-by,  go^^^y^^^Jf^" 
Tom  :  "  eood-by,  Mr.  Puffer  and  family,--there  s  notning 
of  you  bSt  noise  and  motiou -but  yet  I  wish  I  was  vridi 
vol    The  next  time  I'll  try  to  find  less  fa«U,  and  kee^ 
ip  with  society."     Tom  has  never  since  been  heard  ot 


IINIS. 


lOM. 

d  Tom  Slowstarter.    It  was 
road.     We  had  stopped  "  to 

is (not  our  horBCs,  but  the 

alighted  to  look  at  the  ma- 
wheels  began  to  move,  and 
to  hurry;  but  the  working  of 
rplexed  him  so  much  that  he 
e  us,  and  jump  in  Tom,  you'll 
.     "Are  you  speaking  to  a 
Tom ;  "  I  am  not  behind  the 
of  it.    I  want  talook  a  little 
ou  stop  to  understand  any 
a  can't  go  with  us."—"  Here's 
n_"  I  want  to  know  a  little 
i  then  I'll  ride."—"  If  you  are 
i»t  be  in  our  company.    You 
me  thing  or  the  other  pretty 
It  to  see  it  go  round  once  or 
,w  I'm  ready;  open  the  door, 
the  engine  had  begun  to  snort 
wheels  went  round  like  a  buzz. 
It  with  running ;— and  "  Here, 
1— a  little  faster,  a  little  faster  I 
ile  he  was  straining  legs,  amis, 
I  with  his  companions.    "  You 
It  this  crisis ;  and  Tom's  cour- 
e  gave  up  the  chase,  and  stood 
the  road,  while  all  the  caravan 
,f  "  Good-by,  Mr.  Slowstarter ! 
"— "Good-by,  good-by,"  said 
.r  and  family,— there's  nothing 
ioi.— but  yet  I  wish  I  was  with 
ry  to  find  less  fault,  and  keep 
s  never  since  been  heard  ot 


tINIS. 


E:i 


m 


